Icy breeze portable AC

[JBZ]

Actually I think I just figured out my problem..

My motorhome had the washer and dryer but was converted to a triple bunk setup.. so they removed the pantry and washer and dryer and made 3 six foot long bunk beds.. in the middle bunk there is a short tube that is just taped off.. it’s the old dryer vent, I’ll run the exhaust out that.

So I guess the question now is how big of a unit can I buy before it trips the gfi or breakers on the cheesy motorhome outlets..

Dave
If you use a portable AC make sure you insulate the vent hose.
they get crazy hot 120 or so.
I got one of these from amazon. It cuts the heat in half
Make sure you get the proper length and diameter

Amazon.com

 

[spark2678]

Get a 10k from lowes or HD and plumb the exhaust out the bathroom vent with a small wood cutout to cover the open portion, would take you 5 minutes to cut and make in the garage and trust me those 10k units work great. Until we get our genny setup when the power goes out we have one for our master bedroom that is 17x17 and it gets it ice cold in 115 degrees outside. (we used it in our 36' rv that had 2 airs and it helped beyond belief).

This! Done this and really helps when it's 110+ out. Insulate the exhaust hose.

 

[STV_Keith]

Here in Vegas, I run 2 x LG 10k BTU portables in my coach to shed most of the heat load. I use no-residue duct tape to tape their outlets in the window openings (old pic shows aluminum tape though). One in the living room and one in the bedroom. These pull about 900w each, running, so will easily run on the generator with both roof A/C's going. Wrap the hose in a beach towel to insulate it and keep the heat from radiating back into your RV. Mine are set for 75*F and come on at 6am, and run until midnight. I also have a 4500CFM pedestal fan that moves the cooler air from the bedroom towards the front to keep some circulation going. The front roof A/C is left on, set at 90*. The rear A/C doesn't need to run to keep it under 90*F inside, even when it's 110+ out.

They are a bit bulky to keep with you when you are traveling, but if you need them, you need them. You can always put one (or maybe both) in the shower when not in use, to get it out of the way.

Also consider some other things for heat rejection. Get these for your vents: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TVQ3DJ5

Get a sheet of R-Tech foam insulation board from Lowes/Home-Depot...the stuff with the shiny foil side and cut to fit your shower skylight. Drill a small hole in the middle and add a piece of 550-cord with a washer on the other side, to make it easy to remove. Cuts down on light and a ton of heat coming in.

 

[riverroyal]

Call Bennett Rv out there. Have him throw a 3rd AC on the roof with any vent location. Even bathroom would work. Hard wire to generator.
Its as easy as a AC/vent kit and some wire, could be even a electrical cord for now.

 

[Singleton]

Call Bennett Rv out there. Have him throw a 3rd AC on the roof with any vent location. Even bathroom would work. Hard wire to generator.
Its as easy as a AC/vent kit and some wire, could be even an electrical cord for now.

This.
I might be adding a 3rd AC to the new RV, using the bathroom vent.
Part of decision will be if we stay at the Islander. Next year might be our last. Time to travel to cooler weather during the summer and see other parts of this country.

 

[Done-it-again]

This.
I might be adding a 3rd AC to the new RV, using the bathroom vent.
Part of decision will be if we stay at the Islander. Next year might be our last. Time to travel to cooler weather during the summer and see other parts of this country.

Where is your LAM post?

 

[tx-19]

Actually I think I just figured out my problem..

My motorhome had the washer and dryer but was converted to a triple bunk setup.. so they removed the pantry and washer and dryer and made 3 six foot long bunk beds.. in the middle bunk there is a short tube that is just taped off.. it’s the old dryer vent, I’ll run the exhaust out that.

So I guess the question now is how big of a unit can I buy before it trips the gfi or breakers on the cheesy motorhome outlets..

That’s what I did in my fifth wheel at the river,works great

 

[Singleton]

Where is your LAM post?

Still have to take ownership.
Truck and ToyHauler goes to its new owner on July 19. I fly and pickup new RV on 20th. Wife joins me on 22nd, then we drive her home.

 

[rrrr]

Actually I think I just figured out my problem..

My motorhome had the washer and dryer but was converted to a triple bunk setup.. so they removed the pantry and washer and dryer and made 3 six foot long bunk beds.. in the middle bunk there is a short tube that is just taped off.. it’s the old dryer vent, I’ll run the exhaust out that.

So I guess the question now is how big of a unit can I buy before it trips the gfi or breakers on the cheesy motorhome outlets..

Using a unit that exhausts heated condenser discharge air from the conditioned space means that same amount of air will be replaced with unconditioned outdoor air pulled through various openings in the MH envelope.

You'll be trading 120° condenser discharge air with 110° outdoor air, plus whatever humidity exists above that in the MH. It's a sorta futile exercise.

 

[Done-it-again]

Still have to take ownership.
Truck and ToyHauler goes to its new owner on July 19. I fly and pickup new RV on 20th. Wife joins me on 22nd, then we drive her home.

wow, you sold your tailer that quick? Nice.

 

[tostark]

The problem is getting out of town.. and we are heading to St. George on the first day which is hot AF there right now as well. It’s gonna take me two days to finally start getting into reasonable weather.. lol

With the dash air and both AC’s running I’d still bet it’s gonna be 100+ inside when we leave.. I don’t think the wife and kids are gonna like it.

I am glad you started this thread as I leave Havasu on the 16th and my 1st stop was hurricane. Instead of worrying about AC, I changed that first day to Cedar City. About 50 miles further but up the hill and 15 degrees

The problem is getting out of town.. and we are heading to St. George on the first day which is hot AF there right now as well. It’s gonna take me two days to finally start getting into reasonable weather.. lol

With the dash air and both AC’s running I’d still bet it’s gonna be 100+ inside when we leave.. I don’t think the wife and kids are gonna like it.

i am glad you started this thread. I leave Havasu on the 16th and my first stop was Hurricane. Not quite as hot as this Saturday but well over 100. Instead of worrying about the AC, I changed the reservation to Cedar City. A little further but up the hill and about 15 degrees cooler

 

[Singleton]

wow, you sold your tailer that quick? Nice.

Made a couple calls and it was taken in on trade at a value that made it hard to say no to the RV.

 

[hallett21]

Made a couple calls and it was taken in on trade at a value that made it hard to say no to the RV.

Congrats! Shocked no one here wanted it.

 

[Singleton]

Congrats! Shocked no one here wanted it.

I would have needed 5% more on a cash deal to offset taxes.
Sales tax on new rig is after trade-in value.

 

[RiverDave]

This.
I might be adding a 3rd AC to the new RV, using the bathroom vent.
Part of decision will be if we stay at the Islander. Next year might be our last. Time to travel to cooler weather during the summer and see other parts of this country.

Or you could buy a house and rent it when not in use?

 

[RiverDave]

Using a unit that exhausts heated condenser discharge air from the conditioned space means that same amount of air will be replaced with unconditioned outdoor air pulled through various openings in the MH envelope.

You'll be trading 120° condenser discharge air with 110° outdoor air, plus whatever humidity exists above that in the MH. It's a sorta futile exercise.

You know I didnt think about that with regard to the intake air.. I suppose it will work well when I’m driving if I take the dash air off recirculating?

Shit I’m not even sure if the dash air in my motorhome has a recirculating mode? Or if it’s straight outside air?

 

[Singleton]

Or you could buy a house and rent it when not in use?

Not going to occur.
Wife convinced me that Havasu will not be our retirement home for a few reasons, 7 years ago.
If I was going to buy, I would of purchased the house I rented from the Horton’s back in 2012.

 

[Taboma]

Using a unit that exhausts heated condenser discharge air from the conditioned space means that same amount of air will be replaced with unconditioned outdoor air pulled through various openings in the MH envelope.

You'll be trading 120° condenser discharge air with 110° outdoor air, plus whatever humidity exists above that in the MH. It's a sorta futile exercise.

That was covered earlier in this discussion as being a glaring negative of the single hose portable heat pump, with one exception, the fact they do put out increasingly cool recycled room air. After having used one for several summers to cool our bedroom at night, they do work, they just take longer to cool the room down. Granted in our case we weren't dealing with 110 deg+ temps, but then remember, unlike Texas "It's a Dry Heat"
Also, the key is, you're only cooling a smaller room, in our case about 450SF, and in order to mitigate the hot OSA from being drawn from other rooms, and through the room you're cooling, by providing a path reasonably close to the unit itself.

 

[SpectraPat]

Dave, Is your system ducted?

Innovative Products for RV Air Conditioners - KoolRV Solutions, Inc

KoolRV® offers a simple and effective solution to improve your RV air conditioner function. The A/C Connect system connects your A/C directly to your vents, eliminating air turbulence and increasing cooling performance dramatically. Easy to install and affordable. Order now and enjoy a cooler RV!

koolrv.com

 

[JB in so cal]

Still have to take ownership.
Truck and ToyHauler goes to its new owner on July 19. I fly and pickup new RV on 20th. Wife joins me on 22nd, then we drive her home.

Sweet!

 

[Boatymcboatface]

We run this unit in the back of our 30ft class c with single roof top AC. I sleep under a comforter at night in Parker.

 

[Singleton]

Sweet!

We are looking forward to being more mobile.
No more 90-120 minute setup before we can sleep when we go to the dirt.
Park, level, slides out then unpack toys in the morning

 

[2Driver]

Using a unit that exhausts heated condenser discharge air from the conditioned space means that same amount of air will be replaced with unconditioned outdoor air pulled through various openings in the MH envelope.

You'll be trading 120° condenser discharge air with 110° outdoor air, plus whatever humidity exists above that in the MH. It's a sorta futile exercise.

Kind of what i tried to say post 31.

 

[SoCalDave]

Shit I’m not even sure if the dash air in my motorhome has a recirculating mode? Or if it’s straight outside air?

In my experience there is a recruculation mode for dash A/C in most every vehicle manufactured. Be it RV or F150...

 

[Done-it-again]

Using a unit that exhausts heated condenser discharge air from the conditioned space means that same amount of air will be replaced with unconditioned outdoor air pulled through various openings in the MH envelope.

You'll be trading 120° condenser discharge air with 110° outdoor air, plus whatever humidity exists above that in the MH. It's a sorta futile exercise.

We are talking about a motorhome and not clean room, they all have air leaks especially while driving.

 

[rrrr]

We are talking about a motorhome and not clean room, they all have air leaks especially while driving.

That's exactly what I said. Heated condenser discharge air discarded overboard will be replaced by unconditioned air introduced through openings in the MH envelope. It's a wash from a space cooling standpoint, but standing in front of the A/C discharge will feel nice.

You know I didnt think about that with regard to the intake air.. I suppose it will work well when I’m driving if I take the dash air off recirculating?

Shit I’m not even sure if the dash air in my motorhome has a recirculating mode? Or if it’s straight outside air?

It'll help because the cold air discharge of the unit can be directed at the occupants. Leave the dash A/C in recirc mode. That'll minimize infiltration of untreated outside air.

I know it's a pain to cool down an RV when outside temps are 110°. One thing that helped in our case was laminated reflective bubble wrap cut to fit the side windows. I put adhesive Velcro tabs on the windows and wrap, and left them covered while precooling and driving.

These bathroom skylight plugs also make a noticable improvement in reflecting heat, more than I thought possible.

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com

 

[arch stanton]

I used ceramic clear window tint on heavy equipment windows working in the desert and painted the top 8 inches of the windows with white pelalable paint on the outside both made a big difference you could feel with your hand
Stop the sun and heat and the ac will be more effective

 

[spectra3279]

Dave when you get back get this installed on both a/c units. I did my own for about $15 as I'm cheap. LOL
Also pull all the register covers off and make sure the boots are taped well to the duct. Mine was shit as it was factory sealed. Use metal foil tape on everything. Trust me, it made a world of difference in our 26' TT with one a/c.

Ready to install

RV Airflow Systems

Improve the performance of your RV air conditioner! Our system increases you’re A/C’s cooling by maximizing its transfer efficiency! EFFICENCY IS EVERYTHING! Cooling down your RV faster, Quieter, and more Comfortable! Coleman, Dometic, Furrion, & GE Air Conditioners ( Grand Design, Thor, Forest...

rvairflow.com

Self install

Steve did a video of something like this.

 

[Big B Hova]

"OH look honey, the Johnsons are going on a camping trip"

 

[TPC]

Jus' Sayin':

Too late for this and it doesn't answer RD's question but we cut a rectangle in a lower cabinet door that has an outside access door and installed a Window unit. Open the outside door when the unit is running.
Made a noticeable difference.

You have only so many AMPs to use and you have to keep your total draw under your max. Figure in your RV's AC amps + the window unit.

50 AMP park receptacle doesn't necessarily mean you will get 50 AMPS. But in this heat it's essential no matter what it delivers
In addition RV parks in this heat will brown-out when everyone is drawing power for their A/C.
Voltage drops and that means less push/power on the system to deliver the flow of those AMPS.

Emerald Cove is mostly 30 AMP, has a few 50's in the back rows.
On a week like this you'll be lucky to draw 20 amps off the 30's even though the park did slightly upgrade its system.

One week at EC the park power went out for the full week in similar heat.
Alice rolled in with our super quiet generator in the back of the truck and we ran a 115V line to both neighbors too.
Vacations saved.

 

[RiverDave]

That's exactly what I said. Heated condenser discharge air discarded overboard will be replaced by unconditioned air introduced through openings in the MH envelope. It's a wash from a space cooling standpoint, but standing in front of the A/C discharge will feel nice.

It'll help because the cold air discharge of the unit can be directed at the occupants. Leave the dash A/C in recirc mode. That'll minimize infiltration of untreated outside air.

I know it's a pain to cool down an RV when outside temps are 110°. One thing that helped in our case was laminated reflective bubble wrap cut to fit the side windows. I put adhesive Velcro tabs on the windows and wrap, and left them covered while precooling and driving.

These bathroom skylight plugs also make a noticable improvement in reflecting heat, more than I thought possible.

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com

Why would you leave in recirculating? By flooding with cool outside air it would provide some level of intake air? By recirculating it would start pulling outside?

 

[rrrr]

Why would you leave in recirculating? By flooding with cool outside air it would provide some level of intake air? By recirculating it would start pulling outside?

The temperature drop across an A/C system is about 20-25°.

In recirc mode, conditioned air in the coach is returned to the evaporator coil and recooled. If it's 80° in the coach, the A/C will drop that air temp to 60°.

If the A/C is in fresh air mode, it's pulling in 110° air from the outside, and the temperature drop across the coil is much more ineffective.

The portable unit is going to draw replacement air from wherever in the same amount it discharges overboard. In fresh air mode, you'll be drawing in more untreated air than the portable uses, reducing the efficiency of the dash unit. Leave it in recirc, it'll be a net positive.

 

[JayBreww]

"OH look honey, the Johnsons are going on a camping trip"

View attachment 1395896

Tweakers did it first.

 

[SoCalDave]

@RiverDave
Where we at RD?
Did you get out under somewhat icy conditions?

 

[Jonas Grumby]

Actually I think I just figured out my problem..

My motorhome had the washer and dryer but was converted to a triple bunk setup.. so they removed the pantry and washer and dryer and made 3 six foot long bunk beds.. in the middle bunk there is a short tube that is just taped off.. it’s the old dryer vent, I’ll run the exhaust out that.

So I guess the question now is how big of a unit can I buy before it trips the gfi or breakers on the cheesy motorhome outlets..

Where you headed, I’m ready for a break from this heat.

 

[SummitKarl]

@RiverDave is your M/H ducted A/C? shut off ducts where not needed while traveling, it was 110 at chuckwalla a couple of weeks ago, 1 unit kept my 26' toy hauler at 74 no issues, I thought it broke when it shut off..but the thermostat actually reached temp.

 

[Ladsm]

I thought I could run the generator and hose ACs Friday across hwy 40. As soon as it got to 117* the house ACs kept shutting off, prob because the comp was getting too hot. It got hot inside quick.