rivermobster
Club Banned
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2009
- Messages
- 60,133
- Reaction score
- 61,326
What's wrong with this picture??
Zoomed in and can see it says "return"Does the gauge read shock pressure?
No return line out the throttle body?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Zoomed in and can see it says "return"
Also, The top of the EFI main body looks a little hammered like something was bouncing around on top of it.
You guys are good...
It is a FiTech throttle body system...
It does have its own built in fuel pressure regulator...
Some fucking moron decided it needed an additional regulator!?! OMFG. Just when you think you've seen everything! LoL
It also has all the wrong size fuel lines. It's a 383 and FiTech specifies 3/8 ID fuel lines for their 600HP kit. These are Maybe a 1/4 ID fuel lines.
Maybe they should have read the instructions that came with the kit??
Ho Lee Fuk
Customer also said it falls flat when you nail the gas. Basic set up in the FiTech computer was set for a 350, not a 383.
Pings like a bitch and kicks back when trying to start it.
They sold this guy a new distributor too...
Unreal.
Why would a system like this use a vacuum advance type distributor???... Seems like at a minimum the distributor should have a pet Tronics electronic conversion module ... Now that I think about it maybe it does ???...Dunno???..,
It is a California car for sure. There are lots of fuel regulations here.
If you blow that picture up, it's a "Where's Waldo" of fucktardery. It always bugs me when people throw money at parts, but not the parts they needed. I feel bad for the car owner, probably got hosed by a shop or two.
Yep.
And the worst part is?? This guy is a LONG time customer of mine. He decided that my price to install a FAST EFI system was way too high, so he went somewhere else to have this POS FiTech thing installed.
As you can see, he's back.
I prefer buy once cry once but yes, same sentiment.Pay me now or pay me later
..,Can you give me the cliff notes why this type of EFI system is so much better than carburation...if in fact it is...or since I know nothing about it maybe why something like the equilvalent of an early Bosch electronic port injection system might not be better???...Yep.
And the worst part is?? This guy is a LONG time customer of mine. He decided that my price to install a FAST EFI system was way too high, so he went somewhere else to have this POS FiTech thing installed.
As you can see, he's back.
You guys are good...
It is a FiTech throttle body system...
It does have its own built in fuel pressure regulator...
Some fucking moron decided it needed an additional regulator!?! OMFG. Just when you think you've seen everything! LoL
It also has all the wrong size fuel lines. It's a 383 and FiTech specifies 3/8 ID fuel lines for their 600HP kit. These are Maybe a 1/4 ID fuel lines.
Maybe they should have read the instructions that came with the kit??
Ho Lee Fuk
Customer also said it falls flat when you nail the gas. Basic set up in the FiTech computer was set for a 350, not a 383.
Pings like a bitch and kicks back when trying to start it.
They sold this guy a new distributor too...
Unreal.
I was wondering how the distributor cap comes off. Looks a wee bit tight.
..,Can you give me the cliff notes why this type of EFI system is so much better than carburation...if in fact it is...or since I know nothing about it maybe why something like the equilvalent of an early Bosch electronic port injection system might not be better???...
Glad you read all the previous comments and put them all in one post. LOL- Return fitting from EFI throttle body unit isn’t plumbed back to tank. Is it plugged off?
-That EFI unit has an internal fuel pressure regulator, but he is using an external regulator inline that isn’t necessary. Double regulated ain’t double good.....
-Now that we’ve established that the unit is internally regulated, let’s talk about the missing vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.....
-Vacuum advance isn’t hooked up on distributor
-Insert rivermobster joke about “why is the stupid Chevy distributor in the rear” here
I didn’t! And now that I read back thru, nobody mentioned the missing vac line to the integral FPRGlad you read all the previous comments and put them all in one post. LOL
I didn’t! And now that I read back thru, nobody mentioned the missing vac line to the integral FPR
...Those notes are better than Cliff could have done...Thanks...Almost any EFI is better than a carb...
Temperature compensating. Altitude compensating. O2 sensor/fuel mixture compensating. More efficient (better fuel mileage). Super easy to tune!
Is it hesitating on take off??
Carb: Lemme get my Holly pump cam chart out, select a cam, select what hole to mount it to the throttle arm to. Find a different size squirter, install it without dropping anything down the throttle body, readjust the pump arm, go drive it and see if I fixed it. If not, start over again.
EFI: Make a 2 second adjustment on the hand held controller, go drive it and see if I fixed it. If not, 2 more seconds with the handheld.
Idle speed, idle mixture, electric cooling fan control, etc...
All adjustable/tunable with a handheld controller.
Tap the key and it starts...
NO worries about did i pump the throttle too many times when it's cold, and now it's flooded?? Those days are gone.
Yeah, EFI is better in almost every way (except cost).
Almost any EFI is better than a carb...
Temperature compensating. Altitude compensating. O2 sensor/fuel mixture compensating. More efficient (better fuel mileage). Super easy to tune!
Is it hesitating on take off??
Carb: Lemme get my Holly pump cam chart out, select a cam, select what hole to mount it to the throttle arm to. Find a different size squirter, install it without dropping anything down the throttle body, readjust the pump arm, go drive it and see if I fixed it. If not, start over again.
EFI: Make a 2 second adjustment on the hand held controller, go drive it and see if I fixed it. If not, 2 more seconds with the handheld.
Idle speed, idle mixture, electric cooling fan control, etc...
All adjustable/tunable with a handheld controller.
Tap the key and it starts...
NO worries about did i pump the throttle too many times when it's cold, and now it's flooded?? Those days are gone.
Yeah, EFI is better in almost every way (except cost).
EFI kills engines
Carbs just make them not run
4 out of 5 blown engines I replace or rebuild is due to a failed efi component burning up the motor.
4 out of 5 non running carbed motors I work on is solved with a carb rebuild and a tuneup
I own both. I prefer my carbed motors when it comes to gas.
I'll give you that they're more fuel efficient and that they can make more hp in most cases than a carb. Engine longevity, especially in engines that like to do a lot of sitting [ie hot rods and boats]; that I will not.That's why modern EFI motors will run 3x the miles, build more hp and use less fuel than a carb motor
I think it is supposed to be hooked up even in non-blown applications. Drops the fuel pressure a bit under low-load conditions which reduces injector flow rate and helps with metering., especially at idle. Don't they come hooked up from FI-Tech ?That is a boost reference, most likely a 1:1. So not needed on an NA motor
That's why modern EFI motors will run 3x the miles, build more hp and use less fuel than a carb motor
I think it is supposed to be hooked up even in non-blown applications. Drops the fuel pressure a bit under low-load conditions which reduces injector flow rate and helps with metering., especially at idle. Don't they come hooked up from FI-Tech ?
...Those notes are better than Cliff could have done...Thanks...
...Having fiddled with a whole bunch of early 70s Mercedes 3.5 and 4.5...Bosch injection I get it...but I imagine they were a bit more simple as smog requirements in the early 70s were close to nil...To this day I still don’t fully know what the computer that was in the Bosch system was exactly supposed to do if working properly...The computer would do Idle adjustment and fuel mixture at a minimum...If I am not mistaken...
...Pretty sure these 50 year old Bosch injectors are what is used when guys convert their old mechanical Hilborns to electronic???...
I would think full manifold vac. It should keep the fuel pressure at the lower level (58 PSI) until vac drops under high load, then it will bump the pressure up to increase the injector flow rate. Lets them run a smaller injector and make it easier to get the engine idling @ 14.7:1 without having to control "dumping buckets of fuel" lolYes. Just can't remember if it's to ported or full manifold vacumm. Gonna call FiTech today for instructions.
Wait till you see what else they did to this car. Pics @ 11
I would think full manifold vac. It should keep the fuel pressure at the lower level (58 PSI) until vac drops under high load, then it will bump the pressure up to increase the injector flow rate. Lets them run a smal
ler injector and make it easier to get the engine idling @ 14.7:1 without having to control "dumping buckets of fuel" lol
The pre 2004 LS motors (the ones with the return line ran to the fuel rails) were hooked to full vac, 1/8" bung off the manifold.Pretty sure it's a GM unit. What are those hooked to normally? I'll verify for sure later today.