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Hallett teak floor question

DeltaSigBoater

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Yes & No...

It's Teak & Holly Veneered Plywood (sheet), that is actually intended to be used for interior cabin flooring.
 
Big B Hova

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So is the teak the actual floor then? If the teak is soft then the whole floor needs to be replaced?
 
Big B Hova

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Racey

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The teak is laminated paneling it is on 1/4" ply, it's just a floor cover, there is a left piece and a right piece held down with #6 or #8 flat head phillips. Beneath that is two pieces of 3/4" plywood (a front and a back piece), which are held down with 1/4" or #12 flat head wood screws into the stringers), the 3/4" is the structural floor.
 
Done-it-again

Done-it-again

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Nope, this is what was quoted by the production manager last year and if the subfloor needed replacing that was additional. It was said it was a multi day tearout of the interior, couple of days for the floor and again a few days to reinstall the interior.
 
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brendellajet

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Done-it-again said:
I know, looked at doing it myself. Just don’t have the room to do it. Jerry quoted 2500-3000 no sub.
Click to expand...
I'll do my own on my 270. 10, maybe 12 bolts, 20 screws and the interior including the teak comes out. 3-4k, I think someone was hitting the crack pipe a little too hard.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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I just replaced the floor in my 32 with two pieces of 3/4 PVC sheet in 3 hours. “Azek” I believe it is called. Will not rot like wood. I’m putting carpet over it, but you could put anything you wanted over it. $350 in materials excluding the carpet.
 
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Cumberland

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Racey said:
The teak is laminated paneling it is on 1/4" ply, it's just a floor cover, there is a left piece and a right piece held down with #6 or #8 flat head phillips. Beneath that is two pieces of 3/4" plywood (a front and a back piece), which are held down with 1/4" or #12 flat head wood screws into the stringers), the 3/4" is the structural floor.
Click to expand...
Will someone please help me understand how teak and holly floors shed water? I did a sea trial on a 300 MCOB last weekend and liked the floor, but was curious as to what happens to water in the cockpit. My current Cobalt has a Kevlar hull wrapped in fiberglass with a few SS drains in the floor. It's simple and easy...all the water from wet people and rain simply drains into the transom. In fact, I sometimes drain my huge cooler while it's in the boat. What am I missing with a Hallett floor? The subfloor is just screwed to the stringers? Are the stringers glassed? Does the water shed around the perimeter of the wood subfloor? It's hard to wrap my mind around the 3/4" subfloor being exposed to water, even if it's marine grade. I've searched for pictures and explanations, but haven't found anything definitive. TIA!
 
Hammer

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Cumberland said:
Will someone please help me understand how teak and holly floors shed water? I did a sea trial on a 300 MCOB last weekend and liked the floor, but was curious as to what happens to water in the cockpit. My current Cobalt has a Kevlar hull wrapped in fiberglass with a few SS drains in the floor. It's simple and easy...all the water from wet people and rain simply drains into the transom. In fact, I sometimes drain my huge cooler while it's in the boat. What am I missing with a Hallett floor? The subfloor is just screwed to the stringers? Are the stringers glassed? Does the water shed around the perimeter of the wood subfloor? It's hard to wrap my mind around the 3/4" subfloor being exposed to water, even if it's marine grade. I've searched for pictures and explanations, but haven't found anything definitive. TIA!
Click to expand...

Teak floor is screwed to the stringers, everything under the floors is fiberglassed. You need to reseal the floor with teak oil on occasion. The water will drain into the bottom of the boat through the seams on the outside and down the center and into the bilge. You have NOTHING to worry about. Eventually, if you needed to or chose to, you could simply remove the interior, unscrew the teak floor and replace it with new wood...
 
Done-it-again

Done-it-again

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Cumberland said:
Will someone please help me understand how teak and holly floors shed water? I did a sea trial on a 300 MCOB last weekend and liked the floor, but was curious as to what happens to water in the cockpit. My current Cobalt has a Kevlar hull wrapped in fiberglass with a few SS drains in the floor. It's simple and easy...all the water from wet people and rain simply drains into the transom. In fact, I sometimes drain my huge cooler while it's in the boat. What am I missing with a Hallett floor? The subfloor is just screwed to the stringers? Are the stringers glassed? Does the water shed around the perimeter of the wood subfloor? It's hard to wrap my mind around the 3/4" subfloor being exposed to water, even if it's marine grade. I've searched for pictures and explanations, but haven't found anything definitive. TIA!
Click to expand...

The floor is veneer with a backing and screwed down to a sub floor that is screwed to the stringers. In my 240 water would flow off the wood under the back seat and get stored in the bilge
 
J DUNN

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Hammer said:
Teak floor is screwed to the stringers, everything under the floors is fiberglassed. You need to reseal the floor with teak oil on occasion. The water will drain into the bottom of the boat through the seams on the outside and down the center and into the bilge. You have NOTHING to worry about. Eventually, if you needed to or chose to, you could simply remove the interior, unscrew the teak floor and replace it with new wood...
Click to expand...

Also, In the West Coast we get so used to our "local" lakes all being the same that we forget the inherent benefits that come from the environment we're so used to.

For example, IT'S FRACKING HOT HERE!!!! AND DRY! It may be different where you (OP) are, that's why you (OP) would worry about the water or sitting water/moisture. On my 240 the water that would get on the Teak would evaporate in no time. And because the floor is oiled, not lacquered, it absorbs the water and thanks to our DRY HEAT it's evaporated on the ramp in the time it takes you to wipe down the boat.

Am I exaggerating a bit, probably. But still, water on the floor is not a huge concern out here. For any humid or colder climate I would just oil floor more frequently to protect it and use a moisture absorber like DampRid during humid or low temp months.
 
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Cumberland

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Hammer said:
Teak floor is screwed to the stringers, everything under the floors is fiberglassed. You need to reseal the floor with teak oil on occasion. The water will drain into the bottom of the boat through the seams on the outside and down the center and into the bilge. You have NOTHING to worry about. Eventually, if you needed to or chose to, you could simply remove the interior, unscrew the teak floor and replace it with new wood...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. I assumed as much, just trying to wrap my head around the design. For a midwest boater, it's a head scratcher.
 
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Cumberland

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J DUNN said:
Also, In the West Coast we get so used to our "local" lakes all being the same that we forget the inherent benefits that come from the environment we're so used to.

For example, IT'S FRACKING HOT HERE!!!! AND DRY! It may be different where you (OP) are, that's why you (OP) would worry about the water or sitting water/moisture. On my 240 the water that would get on the Teak would evaporate in no time. And because the floor is oiled, not lacquered, it absorbs the water and thanks to our DRY HEAT it's evaporated on the ramp in the time it takes you to wipe down the boat.

Am I exaggerating a bit, probably. But still, water on the floor is not a huge concern out here. For any humid or colder climate I would just oil floor more frequently to protect it and use a moisture absorber like DampRid during humid or low temp months.
Click to expand...
It is hot out there, heck it was 90 last weekend! There is no such thing as dry heat where I live...if it's 85 degrees, it's humid as can be and nothing is evaporating.
 
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Cumberland

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Done-it-again said:
The floor is veneer with a backing and screwed down to a sub floor that is screwed to the stringers. In my 240 water would flow off the wood under the back seat and get stored in the bilge
Click to expand...
Did you end up replacing your teak and holly floor? Seems like it would be fun and look great for not much cost.
 
Racey

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Cumberland said:
Will someone please help me understand how teak and holly floors shed water? I did a sea trial on a 300 MCOB last weekend and liked the floor, but was curious as to what happens to water in the cockpit. My current Cobalt has a Kevlar hull wrapped in fiberglass with a few SS drains in the floor. It's simple and easy...all the water from wet people and rain simply drains into the transom. In fact, I sometimes drain my huge cooler while it's in the boat. What am I missing with a Hallett floor? The subfloor is just screwed to the stringers? Are the stringers glassed? Does the water shed around the perimeter of the wood subfloor? It's hard to wrap my mind around the 3/4" subfloor being exposed to water, even if it's marine grade. I've searched for pictures and explanations, but haven't found anything definitive. TIA!
Click to expand...

I would avoid heavy water on the Teak floor, it's not a solid product but rather a plywood. Keep it oiled yearly with teak oil, but if you are gonna have people constantly getting in the boat soaking wet no plywood product is going to do great under those conditions.

The teak is 3/8" cabin sole ply screwed to 3/4" resin coated marine ply subfloor.

Having the snap carpet definitely helps to stop water from pooling on the wood.

As far as drainage it will drain to the bilge, but make no mistake, it's not like a liner boat, and shouldn't be treated as one.
 
Done-it-again

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Cumberland said:
Did you end up replacing your teak and holly floor? Seems like it would be fun and look great for not much cost.
Click to expand...

I didn't, but was ready too and had researched doing it..... Had a quote from Barron boats about 3 yrs ago around $2500. Far better than what others had quoted.

Its not hard if you use your old pieces as a template, I just didn't have the room or time to work on it.
 
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Done-it-again said:
I didn't, but was ready too and had researched doing it..... Had a quote from Barron boats about 3 yrs ago around $2500. Far better than what others had quoted.

Its not hard if you use your old pieces as a template, I just didn't have the room or time to work on it.
Click to expand...
My dad is a TV repairman and has an ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
 
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Racey said:
I would avoid heavy water on the Teak floor, it's not a solid product but rather a plywood. Keep it oiled yearly with teak oil, but if you are gonna have people constantly getting in the boat soaking wet no plywood product is going to do great under those conditions.

The teak is 3/8" cabin sole ply screwed to 3/4" resin coated marine ply subfloor.

Having the snap carpet definitely helps to stop water from pooling on the wood.

As far as drainage it will drain to the bilge, but make no mistake, it's not like a liner boat, and shouldn't be treated as one.
Click to expand...
this is good, thanks. I ask that people dry off, but that doesn't always happen. but then again, it doesn't matter in my current boat. I certainly won't be draining coolers in the Hallett.
 
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