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Fulton tongue jack rebuild?

ONE-A-DAY

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Mine still works but is a massive upper body work out to use it, up or down, doesn’t matter. It’s a Fulton unit that extreme builds in to their trailers, or at least they did in 2002. It has a grease zerk which I have pumped in plenty of grease, didn’t help. Anyone have the same issue and is there a rebuild solution from Fulton?
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RiverDave

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mine doesn’t have the zerk fitting on it.. (still easy to use thank god)

Is there anyway to take it apart or look inside? I can’t help but wonder if cutting if off and replacing it might be easier?
 

sonicss31

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Support the front of trailer in raised position with jack stands then remove that top cap on the Fulton and will see the worm gear and screw. Probably a worn out bushing or washer that can be replaced. Also you will see 18 years worth of old grease in there. Clean that out. Good luck.
 

LowRiver2

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mine doesn’t have the zerk fitting on it.. (still easy to use thank god)

Is there anyway to take it apart or look inside? I can’t help but wonder if cutting if off and replacing it might be easier?

Adreniline cut , Replaced, repainted mine for around $500
Was worth it since I don’t have the time to do it.
 

J.P.

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I have a 2000 triple extreme under my mach 26. Bought a gear kit for it and a new crank arm. When I received it the gears in new kit were smaller and was told they no longer make the gears to fit mine or the crank handle. On mine the gear on the crank handle is larger and so is the diameter of crank handle. New gears will not work. If yours has the 2 small gears you can get a rebuild kit. I cleaned mine up and reused the gears. There is a thrust washer under the gear on the jack and mine was almost gone replaced it and greased everything working good now. Thanks to the help of Shunter here on the forums.
 

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franky

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They are not that complicated. Take it apart, clean and lubricate. There is I think one bushing that can be replaced.
 

racetrash

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On my toybox, could hardly get it to move with weight on it. Well you can easily grease the gears, but you need to get a good spray grease below those to the "acme" gear below. I put some cardboard down and sprayed the livin' hell down there, and WOW what a difference!
 

racetrash

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That little hole below the crank handle.
 

Joe mama

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Mine was the same way no matter how much grease I put in it. It was like a manual water pump trying to push the water over the Grapevine
 

Flying_Lavey

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On my toybox, could hardly get it to move with weight on it. Well you can easily grease the gears, but you need to get a good spray grease below those to the "acme" gear below. I put some cardboard down and sprayed the livin' hell down there, and WOW what a difference!
Yeah.... thats pretty key. The gears on the top are only half of the equation. If you can't disassemble the leg and the gear mech below the bottom ring gear, it really won't help anything.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

shunter2005

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Don't even try to use that zerk fitting. You will spend days trying to fill up that tube. If you can get the tongue up in the air, unscrew the top cover, take the zerk out to lift cover off. Knock out the pin holding the side gear and handle in place. Pull the handle out and gear will come off. The bottom gear sits flat on the large rectangle block with the worm gear protruding and also has a pin in it. Lift the gear off the end of the worm gear and the pin holding the leg will come out easy. Drop the leg out of the bottom of the tube. The rectangle block will slide out of the tube toward the front of the trailer. There is a bearing and a washer on top of the worm gear tube. Clean it and hope that it is still good as there aren't any replacements (per Fulton) that will fit. As stated, clean everything and re-assemble with lots of grease.

Etrailer shot this video of the new style 2500 bolt on model, but it's basically the same as yours and will give you an idea how it is done.
 

Bigbore500r

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Bump for this old thread….I have this same welded trailer jack, a Fulton circa 2002 on a 28’ boat trailer. The handle free-spins and does nothing. Before that issue, the boat storage drug it with the jack down and slightly bent the drop tube / foot so it doesn’t slide in all the way. Basically….pretty sure I just need to cut this thing out and weld in a replacement.

My winch bolts to it also - a Fulton XLT strap winch. Would like to keep that, and find a jack that drops in place with minimal modification aside from rewelding and painting it.

Anyone gone thru this? If the gears or rebuild kit are available, and there’s a drop-tube / foot that will slide in, I’d be open to rebuilding it but I don’t think there is.
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havasu5150

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Funny this thread popped up today. 2006 Zieman trailer and tbe jack completely seized up. just had Shadow cut it out and weld in a new one from Curt Mfg. 341 out the door
 

SummitKarl

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just installed this on my boat trailer..........DRILL DRIVE......😍 especially when it's 115*+ out
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Racey

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On my toybox, could hardly get it to move with weight on it. Well you can easily grease the gears, but you need to get a good spray grease below those to the "acme" gear below. I put some cardboard down and sprayed the livin' hell down there, and WOW what a difference!

Yep the bulk of the issue comes from the ACME screw not being lubed and starting to gall up.
 

ChrisV

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Have the same one as well. About to chop it off cause it sucks so much.
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ChrisV

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If you have the trailer near you, would you be able to measure the outside dimension of the jack? Curious if its 2 1/2" x 2 1/2", or smaller
It’s in Parker unfortunately. I would say it’s 2.25x2.25 imo.
 

DarkHorseRacing

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To all of you with the jack in the frame, I would highly recommend getting the next jack bolted to a frame welded plate/mount.

That makes jack replacements a DIY project because they don’t last forever and you’ll be doing it again.
 

Flying_Lavey

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I'd love a drill drive, but I need the jack to fit back where the other one currently sits.
Cut the handle off and weld on a hex nut that is the same size as a RV scissor jack. That way you can use a drill but also get a hand crank to keep around in case you need it.
 

Bigbore500r

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Cut the handle off and weld on a hex nut that is the same size as a RV scissor jack. That way you can use a drill but also get a hand crank to keep around in case you need it.
I need to cut the entire jack off, its completely hammered in multple ways lol

Was looking at this one - 2 1/2" square upper housing, curious if that will fit where my Fulton is now. I took pictures of the jack but didn't measure the OD of the upper housing unfortunately

 

DiamondDave

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I had this issue on my old boats Myco trailer (1995) it eventually snapped the worm gear. Everyone is great at lubricating the upper gears but do nothing to the worm gear and all that. My particular jack was no longer made by Attwood and the jack was all painted and smoothed into the trailer I really did not want to cut it out and ruin it. I was able to take detailed measurements on the existing jack and its internals and match it up with one that etrailer offered (different brand) and I replaced the guts. Worked like new again. It did take some research and a call to etrailer to verify some things, but saved me a lot of hassle and work. There are not a lot of manufacturers of jacks over the years and a lot of them are interchangeable it seems. Taking apart the complete jack and lubricating is now part of my normal maintenance.
 

mattyc

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I just dealt with this on mine. Acme screw and nut were rusted, galled, stripped. Bought acme threaded rod and a nut, a little machining, a little welding and a bunch of fresh grease. Working good. Mine is also welded into the tongue of the trailer.
 

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02HoWaRd26

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I just dealt with this on mine. Acme screw and nut were rusted, galled, stripped. Bought acme threaded rod and a nut, a little machining, a little welding and a bunch of fresh grease. Working good. Mine is also welded into the tongue of the trailer.
Yea well you know not many of us will ever be as cool as you and your tools are. Now you just need to make twelve more and sell them to the rest of us, please!
 

Havasu Catman

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It is not that hard to do. You have to take the weight of the jack and take the jack apart as seen in pics above. I cleaned the acme threaded rod on the wire wheel and lubed it up with grease. clean everything as best you can. Put it back together and you will feel 20 years old again when you disconnect the trailer.
 

mattyc

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Yea well you know not many of us will ever be as cool as you and your tools are. Now you just need to make twelve more and sell them to the rest of us, please!
I have enough threaded rod and a nut to do another one. I would need the original tube out of the jack and if I were to do another I would do the nut differently
 

Waterjunky

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The reality of this is someone could make a nice little garage business out of this repair. Sell a kit with everything in it. The only part you would need to keep would be the actual external housing welded into the trailer. You could sell them for a reasonable markup as they don't need to be cheaper than the full replacement, they just need to be noticeably cheaper than a full torch, weld and paint.
 

NicPaus

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I have just the housing still on a dump trailer. Been using a floor jack for years.
 

Bigbore500r

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It is not that hard to do. You have to take the weight of the jack and take the jack apart as seen in pics above. I cleaned the acme threaded rod on the wire wheel and lubed it up with grease. clean everything as best you can. Put it back together and you will feel 20 years old again when you disconnect the trailer.
My jack is bent, so restoring it to glory isn't an option unfortunately.
 

NicPaus

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Did that for a few years on the Daytona, it became a pain.
Definitely a pain
But I leave it at jobs. So it's a secondary theft deterrent along with the locks. I tried a side mount one years ago and it just bent with a heavy load.
 

mattyc

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My jack is bent, so restoring it to glory isn't an option unfortunately.
Is the welded on outer tube bent? Or just the moveable tube and extension? Could repair it with square tubing I imagine if you dont want to mess with the outer tube
 

Bigbore500r

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Is the welded on outer tube bent? Or just the moveable tube and extension? Could repair it with square tubing I imagine if you dont want to mess with the outer tube
Im not sure if the upper portion is bent. I think the bend is in the bottom portion that extends down , attached to the acme screw. The extendable "foot" portion appears straight but jams when you try to slide it up
 
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