Dry wall taper dudes question?

[coolchange]

So i’m trying to put a medium knock down on my ceiling. I mixed up the soup and I realize I don’t have a fitting for my gun. I have to wait till tomorrow will the mix be good tomorrow? Does the water activate some glue or something that’s going to make it not viable tomorrow. It’s +3.

 

[monkeyswrench]

I think you can just put a lid on the bucket...if you use premix/all purpose. Mix powder with the time limits, you may be screwed? I'm really slow, so I use the all purpose stuff.

 

[HNL2LHC]

I think you can just put a lid on the bucket...if you use premix/all purpose. Mix powder with the time limits, you may be screwed? I'm really slow, so I use the all purpose stuff.

I have had boxes and buckets for days as long as you have them sealed tight. As the ”Monkey Mudder” has noted if it is like 5, 10, 20 minute mud then you are doomed.

 

[HOOTER SLED-]

I guess you'll find out when it goes through your gun or not...

 

[RiverCruiser]

So i’m trying to put a medium knock down on my ceiling. I mixed up the soup and I realize I don’t have a fitting for my gun. I have to wait till tomorrow will the mix be good tomorrow? Does the water activate some glue or something that’s going to make it not viable tomorrow. It’s +3.

Did you use powdered texture mix or just a box of all purpose? Either way they should be good as long as you put a lid on it. You can always add water to it to thin it out. If you are spraying with a hopper you want it like soup.

 

[coolchange]

I’m not worried about it in the bucket.
My concern is it becomes unusable because it was extremely wet for 16 hours.
Fuckit I’ll just buy another box and remix it.
As I said it’s Plus 3
Yes a hopper.

 

[RiverCruiser]

I’m not worried about it in the bucket.
My concern is it becomes unusable because it was extremely wet for 16 hours.
Fuckit I’ll just buy another box and remix it.

If it’s just boxed mud that you mixed up you are more than fine

 

[coolchange]

If it’s just boxed mud that you mixed up you are more than fine

Thanks

 

[DLC]

Clean the top of the bucket w/ sponge (anything that is above your mud line in the bucket ) - you don’t Want anything to dry and get chunky and then mixed in tomorrow! A clog sucks!

you can top off bucket w/ water to seal off the mud, cap w/ plastic visqueen / tape

tomorrow I would mix in some fresh mud - make it like a pancake batter


get some card board and spray a test pattern & dial in air pressure before you start. Because your spraying the ceiling don’t start with a full hopper of mud have a helper top off your hopper as you go - you want to maintain the same distance off the ceiling while spraying. Spray in sections lightly over lap old section and new sections

The hopper gets heavy and air pressure needs to be high so go slow let the air compressor build the pressure - slow is better for a more consistent texture, unless you have a pro set up


good luck!

 

[SoCalDave]

All I can contribute here is "Fuck Drywall"...I hate that shit...

 

[sonicss31]

Why even take the chance? Just start over with a new box and leave your worries behind. The “what ifs” are not worth even trying IMHO.

 

[NicPaus]

If you are buying new. This is the one we usually use for the hopper. But I would use what you got.

 

[RiverCruiser]

I sprayed texture daily for years being a drywall pickup man. All anyone ever used is boxed mud for texture. I’ve also sprayed texture that’s been in a bucket for way longer than a day.

 

[rrrr]

I sprayed texture daily for years being a drywall pickup man. All anyone ever used is boxed mud for texture. I’ve also sprayed texture that’s been in a bucket for way longer than a day.

Me too. I never gave it a second thought. I would pour off the thin layer of water placed on top of the product the night before to prevent the mud from drying out, mix it with the big paddle mounted on a heavy duty 1/2" drill, and go to work.

I will share one detail that is recommended. I would scrape the walls of the bucket scrupulously clean every time I loaded a pan or hopper and when I was done for the day, leaving a flat and smooth surface of product in the bucket. This prevented dried bits of mud from forming on the bucket walls and falling into the clean product. If this isn't done, those little blobs will show up when you're doing that final skim coat or shooting a light knockdown texture.

 

[coolchange]

So I just figured I can’t get the texture I want with the hopper gone. I was looking for more of a heavy knock down.

So the compressor I had I borrowed because I figured my little job compressor wouldn’t keep up I was told the regulator works fine Not . Trying to maintain pressure running back-and-forth shutting the compressor off and on what a bitch.
Did it once was more of an orange peel? Did not like it, scraped it off. Fuck.
Things I figured out, lowest pressure possible, if the hopper gun sounds like a spray gun, it’s wrong. My mud was too thin. I made the thickest mud that would come out of the gun,very heavy pancake.
Mid 70s condo drywall has a lot of swales very difficult to knock down evenly.
For the pros,I’ll give you a picture. extra special brownie points if you can guess what happened.

 

[coolchange]

I’m concerned if I roll it I’ll lose what texture I have. You guys only spray ceilings airless?

 

[Wheeler]

I’m concerned if I roll it I’ll lose what texture I have. You guys only spray ceilings airless?

Roll it out and don't look back over your shoulder to see what you missed.

What is the substrate that you shot the texture on, acoustic removal, raw drywall, new drywall etc.?

What city are you in?

 

[DLC]

I hate to say it but …

texture ing is an art - needing a lot of experience ! If you don’t do it All the time, get someone who does! They make it look so easy…

 

[coolchange]

Roll it out and don't look back over your shoulder to see what you missed.

What is the substrate that you shot the texture on, acoustic removal, raw drywall, new drywall etc.?

What city are you in?

It was pop corn that had been removed and then randomly shot with spray texture then the whole place painted semi gloss pure white. Um ya , NO
So I sanded that off, didn’t tear the paper very much, hung the crown and painted it then went after texture.
I make no arguments that texture is an art.
But if you know me I jump in the deep end and figure it out best I can but only when there’s a deadline!
Having someone there to runner and watch my pattern would have helped immensely but were the fun in that?
It was really a blast when the hopper came off🫤
I’m in Santa Clarita

 

[Wheeler]

If you were close I would lend you a texture machine with fluid feed or shoot it for you.

If you are decent with a pan and knife I'd smooth it out or devise your own texture.

A stomp texture might work for you. Texture does not fix poor framing or shitty hanging caused by this.

A sponge on a stick can also be used and knocked down after you stomp it. Have fun and stick to it you'll figure it out.

 

[Wheeler]

One more thing. Texture can last a very long time when in a sealed container although soured texture is a real bitch to deal with after sprayed and dried.

 

[coolchange]

If you were close I would lend you a texture machine with fluid feed or shoot it for you.

If you are decent with a pan and knife I'd smooth it out or devise your own texture.

A stomp texture might work for you. Texture does not fix poor framing or shitty hanging caused by this.

A sponge on a stick can also be used and knocked down after you stomp it. Have fun and stick to it you'll figure it out.

Thank you I appreciate the gesture.
It’s on and knocked down. I’ll go back tomorrow and look with a clear eye. I know there are some light spots I want to touch up. I think a plastic spoon and popsicle stick with a rubber band will make a good spot in tool.

 

[coolchange]

One more thing. Texture can last a very long time when in a sealed container although soured texture is a real bitch to deal with after sprayed and dried.

Soured meaning Bacteria like old paint?

 

[Wheeler]

Soured meaning Bacteria like old paint?

More like sour milk but it takes a long time for texture to go bad. You are using premixed mud and you'll see mold prior to souring.

You can make you own magic mudder by attaching a foam pad to hawk or go to Cal Wall buy one, or order online from All Wall if this is the direction you decide to go as far as texture goes.

if this sixty Y.O. lady can do it so can you.

 

[SoCalDave]

drywall...

 

[rrrr]

Wheeler's mention of the plaster hawk brings up another possibility. The usual suspects can go ahead with the TLDR comments now.



Using a plaster hawk as a texture tool is common in New Mexico home building, and it's easy to do. A pad isn't used, just the bare surface of the hawk.

Don't watch videos about skip troweling or "Santa Fe style" textures. That's way too much mud. I didn't find any videos that show how this should be done. There should be about 30-40% mud in the area of each hit of the hawk, the rest smooth drywall.

Mix the mud to just-a-little-runny state, and dump it in a washtub or other container large enough to fit the hawk. Hold the hawk parallel to the mud surface and dip the face in the tub, then turn it vertical and remove the excess mud with one or two medium shakes, leaving enough on the hawk to work with.

Keep the hawk parallel to the ceiling in both directions so it hits flush, and press it lightly on the ceiling two or three times, moving it in overlapped spacing for each hit until the mud runs out. Reload the hawk and repeat, and do an area about 8' X 8'. Make the deposits consistent, and use the overlaps to hide any straight lines left by the edges of the hawk. Don't make the impressions in a straight line, vary the incidence angle of the hawk each time by rotating it a bit. Again, touch the ceiling lightly with the hawk, don't smack it.

The mud will hang down in little icicles. Do another 8' X 8' area, then another. Let each 8' X 8' square dry for fifteen minutes or so (gotta experiment, it depends on how stiff the mud is and the ambient conditions), then knock it down with a 12" knife. Don't press hard, you just need to flatten the icicles. To avoid leaving lines from the knife edges as you progress, adjust the drying time to a longer interval.

This makes for a really nice texture. It's one of my favorites. When we sold our house last year, several realtors and prospective buyers commented on the appearance of the ceilings. When we performed the two year long remodel of the house after purchasing it in 1997, I had added another layer of 1/2" drywall to the ceilings, covering the hideous stomp texture, a Level 5 finish, and the texture I'm describing. They had not seen that texture before, and all of them liked it.

A photo that's pretty close to how the texture should appear, but not this heavy:

Plaster hawk: