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DOD Delete in CA questions

trophybug19

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My wifes suburban ate a lifter so I am going to do a DOD delete while I am at it. The few questions that I have are, for those who have done it did you get the ECM flashed? and if so who did you use and does it affect getting smoged in CA?
 

attitude

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It will require a tune which will not pass smog in CA unfortunately.
 

ChrisV

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Interested in this as well.
 

attitude

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Last engine we did with a DOD delete from Jasper came with its own tune, 50 state legal.
Was it a LS or LT based motor? I couldn’t find any CA compliance DOD delete kits when my LT ate the cam.
 

sintax

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not sure if this applies or not, but I accidentally left my tune on my duramax a few smogs back. Its a pretty hefty 200+ hp tune also, and it passed, never heard a thing, so i've just left it on the last few times. **shrug**

maybe my smog guy just likes me?

side question: dont they make little boxes that plug into your obd2 that disable it also?
 

Justsomeguy

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I thought about doing this. Once my wife heard the word, "tune" she asked, "is it going to be a pain to smog like the truck?" Ummmmm......"don't touch it!"
 

Justsomeguy

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not sure if this applies or not, but I accidentally left my tune on my duramax a few smogs back. Its a pretty hefty 200+ hp tune also, and it passed, never heard a thing, so i've just left it on the last few times. **shrug**

maybe my smog guy just likes me?
When's the last time you got it smog checked? I used to have no problem until this past year. They changed the diesel smog check. Mine went up to Sacramento. Modified software it said.
 

sintax

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When's the last time you got it smog checked? I used to have no problem until this past year. They changed the diesel smog check. Mine went up to Sacramento. Modified software it said.

so it would be 2 years ago.

My next one will be a smog year. Sounds like i'll pull it off...
 
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bowtiejunkie

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not sure if this applies or not, but I accidentally left my tune on my duramax a few smogs back. Its a pretty hefty 200+ hp tune also, and it passed, never heard a thing, so i've just left it on the last few times. **shrug**

maybe my smog guy just likes me?

side question: dont they make little boxes that plug into your obd2 that disable it also?
Range Technology makes a plug in disabler. I just drive my 2014 Sierra 5.3 around in manual mode and leave it in 5th gear (unless on freeway). Obviously, cheaper than the hard parts replacements OP is asking about, but the Range device is a good alternative.
 

monkeyswrench

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Last engine we did with a DOD delete from Jasper came with its own tune, 50 state legal.
Was just discussing this last weekend with a buddy. He's a mechanic for the town. He was telling me Jasper has an option now for the "LE" motors. It came with an HP tuner flash deal to put in the ODBII. Came with a sticker for emissions as well. The local PD runs Tahoes, and he says the idle time is killing them.
 

trophybug19

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You have to remove that to smog it in California
I've been told these work. But yeah my issue is when it comes time to smog you have to remove it. And when you do if you have the selonids bypassed or disabled without the ecm programmed to disable them the car will throw codes and I assumed would fail smog. But also was told if you have your ecm mod you will fail too. Was looking for some real world info.
 

Ziggy

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Once you disconnect it it could set a check engine light if the engine has been deleted
Wouldn't you just clear the code & drive it 50-60 miles to reset ecu?
Sounds like this device doesn't need the engine pieces deleted.
 

4Waters

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Wouldn't you just clear the code & drive it 50-60 miles to reset ecu?
Sounds like this device doesn't need the engine pieces deleted.
It's not that easy to reset the monitors and the light will come back on before the monitors are reset. Deleting gets the failing junk out of the engine, what's the point if you are not actually removing it. I'm not a GM guy so maybe I'm missing something.
 

ChrisV

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Modify Ecu and pay for illegal smog. Done deal
 

DarkHorseRacing

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It's not that easy to reset the monitors and the light will come back on before the monitors are reset. Deleting gets the failing junk out of the engine, what's the point if you are not actually removing it. I'm not a GM guy so maybe I'm missing something.
Deleting obviously removes the problem hardware, but I'd wager that if you use an electronic disabler the system stops switching which means the parts just sit unused which is still better.

Though I have a 2016 6.2L with 184k on it and knock on wood the engine is still running fine with nothing but regular oil changes, well before the stupid oil life monitor says too. I think that's key, the DoD grenades with dirty oil.
 

Ziggy

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It's not that easy to reset the monitors and the light will come back on before the monitors are reset. Deleting gets the failing junk out of the engine, what's the point if you are not actually removing it. I'm not a GM guy so maybe I'm missing something.
My 2007 5.3 gets its smog done in the next week or so.
Deleting obviously removes the problem hardware, but I'd wager that if you use an electronic disabler the system stops switching which means the parts just sit unused which is still better.

Though I have a 2016 6.2L with 184k on it and knock on wood the engine is still running fine with nothing but regular oil changes, well before the stupid oil life monitor says too. I think that's key, the DoD grenades with dirty oil.
Every car I have gets LOF @5k miles, period. All of 'em except the PSD use full synthetic.
 

HALLETT BOY

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Why are you guys worried about it passing smog , I thought everybody has a “ Guy “ …
 

sintax

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Until that kustom smog facility disappears.😉

in his line of work, he has no shortage of shops looking to make a buck.

last time i needed one, i was able to make a few phone calls to buds in the racing world, had 3 shops to choose from pretty quickly
 

redman

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Deleting obviously removes the problem hardware, but I'd wager that if you use an electronic disabler the system stops switching which means the parts just sit unused which is still better.

Though I have a 2016 6.2L with 184k on it and knock on wood the engine is still running fine with nothing but regular oil changes, well before the stupid oil life monitor says too. I think that's key, the DoD grenades with dirty oil.
You are correct! They are not being actuated on and off by disabling the system with the plug-in, remove it and go get a smog, 5 second job
 

hallett3

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I have the Range device on my 2015 Silverado. The positive it works great. I use to get fouled spark plugs all the time. 1,7,4 and 6. One and seven would foul the most. I would get a check engine light (misfire) when this would happen. I’d take it to the dealer when new and they changed the plugs. I hate this system. so I found the Range. Never had problems since. The down side is I have to take it out for smog no big deal. Plug and play. But it wouldn’t pass. I had to go through a drive cycle. Showed incomplete cycle. So I just take it out before smog and go through a drive cycle. Usually takes 20 miles. Another way I know I will pass is I scan it for incomplete cycles and make sure it shows a complete cycle before I go for smog. Your simple scan tool will show the incomplete complete codes. Also I was told clean oil will help for the collapse lifter problem. I always change oil at 40 percent now. I don’t know why Chevrolet still puts this in their cars and trucks with so many problems such Bullshit . Especially the corvettes c7 and c8. Except the ZR1 😎
 

4Waters

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I have the Range device on my 2015 Silverado. The positive it works great. I use to get fouled spark plugs all the time. 1,7,4 and 6. One and seven would foul the most. I would get a check engine light (misfire) when this would happen. I’d take it to the dealer when new and they changed the plugs. I hate this system. so I found the Range. Never had problems since. The down side is I have to take it out for smog no big deal. Plug and play. But it wouldn’t pass. I had to go through a drive cycle. Showed incomplete cycle. So I just take it out before smog and go through a drive cycle. Usually takes 20 miles. Another way I know I will pass is I scan it for incomplete cycles and make sure it shows a complete cycle before I go for smog. Your simple scan tool will show the incomplete complete codes. Also I was told clean oil will help for the collapse lifter problem. I always change oil at 40 percent now. I don’t know why Chevrolet still puts this in their cars and trucks with so many problems such Bullshit . Especially the corvettes c7 and c8. Except the ZR1 😎
They have to put the DOD in there because of CAFE Corporate Average Fuel Economy. They continue to use the system because it's already engineered and the cost to re-engineer an engine lineup to meet what they already have would be astronomical. Ford met CAFE standards with the Ecoboost lineup. I think in the big picture turbos were the better way to go even though at first being a Ford guy I was upset with most trucks having V6's and I couldn't understand why Ford couldn't do something similar but now with all the issues there are with the DOD I'm glad Ford went the direction they did.
 

LakeMeadLavey

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Modify Ecu and pay for illegal smog. Done deal
Until the next smog when you get flagged for the Ref. I had a guy for years until....Happened to me with my Z06 with HP tune and a few friends too. They can trace the tune and CA has gotten aware of it. Many with tunes are getting the Ref flag.
 

sintax

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Until the next smog when you get flagged for the Ref. I had a guy for years until....Happened to me with my Z06 with HP tune and a few friends too. They can trace the tune and CA has gotten aware of it. Many with tunes are getting the Ref flag.

Not sure I’m following that one.

So my last “smog help” I just gave the guy my vin, he never even saw the car. Was all remote.

Not sure how CA would be aware and flag an ECU
 

monkeyswrench

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Not sure I’m following that one.

So my last “smog help” I just gave the guy my vin, he never even saw the car. Was all remote.

Not sure how CA would be aware and flag an ECU
It could be if said helper shop gets popped, and their records are checked. That's what has happened with some of the commercial diesel guys.
 

Bigbore500r

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They have to put the DOD in there because of CAFE Corporate Average Fuel Economy. They continue to use the system because it's already engineered and the cost to re-engineer an engine lineup to meet what they already have would be astronomical. Ford met CAFE standards with the Ecoboost lineup. I think in the big picture turbos were the better way to go even though at first being a Ford guy I was upset with most trucks having V6's and I couldn't understand why Ford couldn't do something similar but now with all the issues there are with the DOD I'm glad Ford went the direction they did.
I'll trade ya DOD issues for Cam Phasers, cracked platic valve covers, cracked plastic oil pans, and turbo WG failures :cool:
 

Bigbore500r

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My wifes suburban ate a lifter so I am going to do a DOD delete while I am at it. The few questions that I have are, for those who have done it did you get the ECM flashed? and if so who did you use and does it affect getting smoged in CA?

If you delete the DOD system, your gonna have to tune it or you'll get a check engine light. The ECM will be looking for the DOD solenoids and activations that wont be there.

The new CA Smog procedures will catch that the ECM has been tuned. Short of "knowing a guy", you can't delete it and smog it.

If you just put new OEM DOD lifters back in the motor, running a "removable" Range OBD-II disabler (or any of the cheaper devices on amazon that do the same thing) will greatly prolog the lifters, you'll probably get rid of the truck before you have to deal with it again. Despite the bad press they get - it's normal for DOD lifters to get well over 150k miles, when the range device is used. The range can be unplugged before smog, just do it a few weeks before to ensure all of the IM monitors have time to set. Not sure if it even affects the IM monitors but just to be safe, that's what I would do.

Or . . . know a guy :cool:
 

85RiverRAT

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Following.

My 2010 Sierra motor grenade-ed, and I had to preplace it, never really learned what killed it. I bought the RANGE because of the lifter tick. Disabling the AFM/DOD helped the noise some, but I still lost the motor somewhere along the way. I kept using the RANGE on the new crate engine and never developed the TICK. I believe keeping the motor in V8 certainly helped.

It worked really well; I liked having the motor in V8 mode at all times. My last smog check, I took it out, but it was after having a dead battery, and the ECU monitoring was wiped out. It failed with 2-3 monitors not logging. I made the mistake of plugging the Range back in and trying to do a drive cycle. You've got to have it out, and let it monitors log with AFM/DOD operating for a long time. I had to do a second cycle and put on over 500 miles to get it to reset the monitors. I didn't have this problem on the prior smog, I just unplugged the Range, and it passed, this last time I think the combo of the truck sitting and having a dead battery, took more driving to get back to normal status.

We have two LT based GM's now and would consider a DOD-delete if it could be done.
 

hallett3

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This work for me :
drive cycle" for a 2015 Chevrolet Silverado refers to a specific driving pattern designed to activate all the necessary emission system monitors on the vehicle, typically including a cold start, idling with electrical loads, accelerating to a steady speed, maintaining that speed for a set time, decelerating by coasting, and repeating these steps to ensure all emission systems are properly tested and ready for an emissions inspection; essentially, driving in a controlled manner to allow the vehicle's computer to run diagnostic tests on its emissions system.

Key points of a 2015 Silverado drive cycle:
  • Cold Start:
    Begin the drive cycle with a completely cold engine, meaning the vehicle hasn't been driven for several hours.
  • Idle with Load:
    After starting, let the engine idle for a short period while turning on accessories like the air conditioning and rear defroster to apply electrical load.
  • Acceleration and Steady Speed:
    Accelerate to a moderate speed (around 55 mph) and maintain that speed for a set time (several minutes) to test various emission components.
  • Deceleration by Coasting:
    Gradually slow down by letting off the accelerator and coasting, avoiding braking, to further test specific emissions systems.
  • Repeat Cycles:
    Depending on the situation, you might need to repeat parts of the drive cycle to ensure all monitors are ready.

Important considerations:
  • Check Readiness Codes:
    Use an OBD-II scanner to check the status of emission monitors before starting the drive cycle to see which systems need testing.
 
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