DOD Delete in CA questions

[Big B Hova]

They have to put the DOD in there because of CAFE Corporate Average Fuel Economy. They continue to use the system because it's already engineered and the cost to re-engineer an engine lineup to meet what they already have would be astronomical. Ford met CAFE standards with the Ecoboost lineup. I think in the big picture turbos were the better way to go even though at first being a Ford guy I was upset with most trucks having V6's and I couldn't understand why Ford couldn't do something similar but now with all the issues there are with the DOD I'm glad Ford went the direction they did.

Lifters & cam vs cams & phasers & turbos.

Lifters & cam cheaper

 

[Big B Hova]

One thing I just noticed on my 2015, with the transmission in manual, I don’t think it switches to the V4 mode. I put it in D and it would switch, went back to manual and V8 only.

I believe in tow/haul mode it stays in v8 mode as well, but hangs the shift points higher.

 

[DarkHorseRacing]

I believe in tow/haul mode it stays in v8 mode as well, but hangs the shift points higher.

I don't believe that's correct, T/H just remaps the trans shift points to allow for more torque down low. I've seen it switch modes while towing.

 

[Big B Hova]

I don't believe that's correct, T/H just remaps the trans shift points to allow for more torque down low. I've seen it switch modes while towing.

My 2007 NNBS vortex max would cancel the v4 mode in tow haul. Maybe it's different now

 

[TrollerDave]

I believe in tow/haul mode it stays in v8 mode as well, but hangs the shift points higher.

I don't believe that's correct, T/H just remaps the trans shift points to allow for more torque down low. I've seen it switch modes while towing.

Update, I just tried it out and it switches to V4 in tow/haul mode. It seems like it switches to v4 a lot quicker than regular mode.
I have a 2015 1500 with a 5.3, 2 wheel drive.

 

[Big B Hova]

Update, I just tried it out and it switches to V4 in tow/haul mode. It seems like it switches to v4 a lot quicker than regular mode.
I have a 2015 1500 with a 5.3, 2 wheel drive.

*inserts foot in mouth*

 

[TrollerDave]

*inserts foot in mouth*

Maybe it was different for the earlier model. So much changes from year to year, who knows.

 

[welldigger00]

Welp… because I looked at this thread, my Tahoe decided to fucking follow suit and take a shit. My kid drove it to town this morning, and got gas. As soon as he started it up leaving the station, it immediately started running rough. He brought it home, and the scanner said cylinder 6 misfire. I threw a coil in it, and still running like shit. I pulled the #6 plug, and it was wet. So, I tore into it. Pulled the valve cover, and huge lash in the #6 exhaust valve. I’m in the process of pulling the head, so I can remove the lifter and see if the cam is toast. I’ll report back tomorrow when I know more. 2015 Tahoe, with 150k on the clock, regular oil changes, and always driven in tow/haul fifth gear.

 

[welldigger00]

Fingers crossed, I cut the oil filter open, and it’s spotless.

 

[welldigger00]

Ok, here’s the update. #6 exhaust collapsed for sure. Skate still looks good, just a fine stripe on the cam lobe, but I cants feel it with an o ring pick. I think I’m in good shape.

 

[Bigbore500r]

Ok, here’s the update. #6 exhaust collapsed for sure. Skate still looks good, just a fine stripe on the cam lobe, but I cants feel it with an o ring pick. I think I’m in good shape. View attachment 1471393 View attachment 1471394 View attachment 1471395 View attachment 1471396

Nice work! You caught it before it banged the shit out of the cam lobe and exploded the lifter.
Are you gonna put fresh DOD lifters back in it and run it, or delete it?

 

[welldigger00]

Nice work! You caught it before it banged the shit out of the cam lobe and exploded the lifter.
Are you gonna put fresh DOD lifters back in it and run it, or delete it?

I’m gonna put it back together with OEM parts. I don’t want the bullshit with smog laws. I figure it went 150k with those lifters, it should make another 150k in theory.

 

[Bigbore500r]

I’m gonna put it back together with OEM parts. I don’t want the bullshit with smog laws. I figure it went 150k with those lifters, it should make another 150k in theory.

That would be my move also. Would be curious to see if that lifter can be "popped loose" to get the plunger to return back to normal state, by smacking a pushrod in there a few times with a hammer. Sometimes they can be unstuck. Toss it in a vice and see!

 

[welldigger00]

That would be my move also. Would be curious to see if that lifter can be "popped loose" to get the plunger to return back to normal state, by smacking a pushrod in there a few times with a hammer. Sometimes they can be unstuck. Toss it in a vice and see!

I’m gonna replace all of the lifters, and rockers, they’re all needle bearings. This is the time for water pump, vacuum pump, belts, hoses etc. I’m going back and forth on sending the heads out. I’ve got them sitting with the combustion chambers full of gas, and they’re not leaking. I’m just worried that I’m not gonna be happy with the results of getting a valve job. Injectors, coil packs, Sensors, etc, will top of the tune up. I’ll report back on what I’m in to this thing, soup to nuts.

 

[Bigbore500r]

I’m gonna replace all of the lifters, and rockers, they’re all needle bearings. This is the time for water pump, vacuum pump, belts, hoses etc. I’m going back and forth on sending the heads out. I’ve got them sitting with the combustion chambers full of gas, and they’re not leaking. I’m just worried that I’m not gonna be happy with the results of getting a valve job. Injectors, coil packs, Sensors, etc, will top of the tune up. I’ll report back on what I’m in to this thing, soup to nuts.

Ive never had coil packs die on the GM motors, but it would be good to do new GM / OEM plug wires.
If the heads don't leak and it wasn't consuming oil or showing signs of guide wear, i'd leave the heads and factory valve job alone. If anything, just toss some new valve seals on them for good measure, easy DIY. Maybe de-carbon and clean the intake ports if they are nasty from being a DI motor

 

[ChrisV]

Can you put aftermarket lifters in and delete the dod?

 

[trophybug19]

Can you put aftermarket lifters in and delete the dod?

So since you didn't read the whole thread, I'll recap. If you want to replace with non dod lifters then you need to swap cam too. Then you need to retune ecm which then leads to not being able to pass smog in Calif. So best bet is to swap with stock lifters then run a obd2 deal that disables dod, that way you can unplug it when it's time for smog. And for extra credit make sure you change oil at 3k miles and not when the computer says to. Dirty oil leads to dod lifters getting stuck in collapsed mode. I think I covered it all.

 

[welldigger00]

Ok, so here’s some rough costs. I’ve found a Chevrolet parts page so I can order parts, and it shows where they are located compared to where I’m at. Also if they’re in stock. All the dealerships too. Pretty cool. So, a new factory long block is like $6700, and I’ve got to swap all the gingerbread over. If I just buy lifters, rockers, HP fuel pump, lines, gasket kits, and other items, and reuse my heads, I’m like $3700, If I throw on OEM new assembled heads, IM like $5200. Ive estimated another $1500 or so in pumps, hoses, clips, and assorted juju’s and wham wham’s. So, If I want to have a new engine I’m looking at spending like $10k on a truck that’s worth $15k. And then the next thing that happens with a new re powered truck is the trans shits the bed. There’s the other $5k. So, I’m inclined to spend $4k or so, and cross my fingers. I can’t imagine what the labor costs would be on this project. And, I’ve got to say thanks assholes that started this thread, I was just fine spending money on other wore out shit

 

[HotRod82]

Most people I know just have a spare stock ECU and a tuned ECU........only a few hundred bucks, and only a few minutes to change in most cases. IDK if this would work in the these particular LT/LS applications, but works like a charm in many applications. Nice to be able to run any tune you want.

 

[Justsomeguy]

Most people I know just have a spare stock ECU and a tuned ECU........only a few hundred bucks, and only a few minutes to change in most cases. IDK if this would work in the these particular LT/LS applications, but works like a charm in many applications. Nice to be able to run any tune you want.

That will not help. As when you go to put the non tuned ecu back in. It will know the DOD system is not there. So wouldn't be beneficial. Otherwise you could just take the tune out and load the stock tune. Not sure you would need a second one. Unless it's a single calibration done at the tuner. But if you have tune files and some sort of device like an autocal that stores the different files you won't need a second ecu.

 

[ChrisV]

So since you didn't read the whole thread, I'll recap. If you want to replace with non dod lifters then you need to swap cam too. Then you need to retune ecm which then leads to not being able to pass smog in Calif. So best bet is to swap with stock lifters then run a obd2 deal that disables dod, that way you can unplug it when it's time for smog. And for extra credit make sure you change oil at 3k miles and not when the computer says to. Dirty oil leads to dod lifters getting stuck in collapsed mode. I think I covered it all.

Thanks man. Seems like the ticket to replace lifters, cam and retune. Does the retune mess with and lights on the dash?

 

[Justsomeguy]

Thanks man. Seems like the ticket to replace lifters, cam and retune. Does the retune mess with and lights on the dash?

Shouldn't. A tuner should be able to program it out so it's seemless. The biggest issue is smog. If that's no issue, then you should be good.

 

[76 Hondo]

I’m gonna replace all of the lifters, and rockers, they’re all needle bearings. This is the time for water pump, vacuum pump, belts, hoses etc. I’m going back and forth on sending the heads out. I’ve got them sitting with the combustion chambers full of gas, and they’re not leaking. I’m just worried that I’m not gonna be happy with the results of getting a valve job. Injectors, coil packs, Sensors, etc, will top of the tune up. I’ll report back on what I’m in to this thing, soup to nuts.

When my 2017 Sierra collapsed the lifter in no. 5 and bent the push rod, at 103,000 miles. I went the same route new lifters replaced the push rod, and had the heads gone through, and the belts, hoses, water pump. I'm at 152,000, with fingers crossed.

 

[Justsomeguy]

You guys and number 5 are really starting to worry me. Guess I'm doing an injector to rule that out. Mine is slight at idle doesn't throw a code. Seems with injector cleaner and good fuel it's getting better. So hopefully just an injector sticking. I didn't think lifter because it's not a DOD lifter. Sounds like that doesn't matter.

 

[welldigger00]

You guys and number 5 are really starting to worry me. Guess I'm doing an injector to rule that out. Mine is slight at idle doesn't throw a code. Seems with injector cleaner and good fuel it's getting better. So hopefully just an injector sticking. I didn't think lifter because it's not a DOD lifter. Sounds like that doesn't matter.

If you’ve got like 150k on the clock, I’ve got bad news pal. I’m so far in to my Tahoe, that I’m married to it. I don’t want anything else either. If you’re worried about it, and don’t love the truck, sell it.

 

[Justsomeguy]

If you’ve got like 150k on the clock, I’ve got bad news pal. I’m so far in to my Tahoe, that I’m married to it. I don’t want anything else either. If you’re worried about it, and don’t love the truck, sell it.

It doesn't even have 70 on it. I don't mind tearing into it. I just finished my truck though. So trying not to do another project.

 

[welldigger00]

It doesn't even have 70 on it. I don't mind tearing into it. I just finished my truck though. So trying not to do another project.

I’m with you. I can do the work. But the bitch of it is, the cost of parts is astronomical. If the head is off, you might as well do the other head gasket too. Oh, and all the lifters, and rockers. The snow ball comes quick. I didnt even price new injectors. Those are $125 per. You’ll be into it for 5k at the blink of an eye.

 

[Justsomeguy]

I’m with you. I can do the work. But the bitch of it is, the cost of parts is astronomical. If the head is off, you might as well do the other head gasket too. Oh, and all the lifters, and rockers. The snow ball comes quick. I didnt even price new injectors. Those are $125 per. You’ll be into it for 5k at the blink of an eye.

Lol. I'm aware. That's why I didn't want to. I just finished that chaos

 

[Bigbore500r]

I’m with you. I can do the work. But the bitch of it is, the cost of parts is astronomical. If the head is off, you might as well do the other head gasket too. Oh, and all the lifters, and rockers. The snow ball comes quick. I didnt even price new injectors. Those are $125 per. You’ll be into it for 5k at the blink of an eye.

My unsolicited 2 cents . . .

I wouldnt worry about replacing injectors, coil packs or sensors. (except oil pressure sender....that would be worth doing!) They're not known to eat any of those, GM coil packs are pretty die hard.

If it was mine, id do:

• New GM lifters (all)
• New GM lifter trays
• New GM MLS head gaskets (stock gaskets)
• New GM rockers (optional, if yours look good its just a "piece of mind" thing)
• New exhaust manifold gaskets (steel shim type, OEM style)
• For the heads...
  • Set of new intake and valve seals
  • Clean / decarbon intakes if neccessry. How do they look ?
  • Valve springs seem to live forever with these motors, if your gonna do the valve seals you could toss new springs on, but its not really needed. Cheap though if you want the piece of mind
  • If it ran good before, and valves didn't leak when you tested - I'd leave OEM valve job alone.
  • Check surface of heads after cleanup, if you did any damage might be a good idea to have the deck skimmed with a fresh cut at the cylinder head shop.
• New OEM plug wires / plugs
• New valve cover gaskets
• New OEM water pump / thermostat (not really part of doing the heads / lifters, but if you want to knock it out now.....)
  • If doing water pump - new hoses
  • Check radiator end caps for seepage. If it shown any signs of weeping, swap radiator too
• AFM solenoid / lifter valley cover - You could change this out to a fresh one if you were paranoid, but it can be changed later just by pulling the intake so it's not really a big deal. I personally wouldn't bother changing it, unless the motor looked nasty inside from lack of oil changes, or if metal had gone thru the motor.

 

[welldigger00]

My unsolicited 2 cents . . .

I wouldnt worry about replacing injectors, coil packs or sensors. (except oil pressure sender....that would be worth doing!) They're not known to eat any of those, GM coil packs are pretty die hard.

If it was mine, id do:

• New GM lifters (all)
• New GM lifter trays
• New GM MLS head gaskets (stock gaskets)
• New exhaust manifold gaskets (steel shim type, OEM style)
• For the heads...
  • Set of new intake and valve seals
  • Clean / decarbon intakes if neccessry. How do they look ?
  • Valve springs seem to live forever with these motors, if your gonna do the valve seals you could toss new springs on, but its not really needed. Cheap though if you want the piece of mind
• New OEM plug wires / plugs
• New valve cover gaskets
• New OEM water pump / thermostat (not really part of doing the heads / lifters, but if you want to knock it out now.....)
  • If doing water pump - new hoses
  • Check radiator end caps for seepage. If it shown any signs of weeping, swap radiator too
• AFM solenoid / lifter valley cover - You could change this out to a fresh one if you were paranoid, but it can be changed later just by pulling the intake so it's not really a big deal. I personally wouldn't bother changing it, unless the motor looked nasty inside from lack of oil changes, or if metal had gone thru the motor.

Woah! This is an exact copy of my list. I rounded up all the parts yesterday, and I’m tackling it today. I got sidetracked at the lake arrowhead sports grill, on my way up the hill, consoling a buddy who got fired from his job.

 

[attitude]

Don’t forget the to buy new high pressure fuel lines in the valley that connect to your injectors, they are one time use.

 

[welldigger00]

Don’t forget the to buy new high pressure fuel lines in the valley that connect to your injectors, they are one time use.

Got em

 

[welldigger00]

I’ve watched 300 you tubes on this now. Love you tube. Got new lifter oil control manifold, and hp fuel pump.

 

[mjc]

My unsolicited 2 cents . . .

I wouldnt worry about replacing injectors, coil packs or sensors. (except oil pressure sender....that would be worth doing!) They're not known to eat any of those, GM coil packs are pretty die hard.

If it was mine, id do:

• New GM lifters (all)
• New GM lifter trays
• New GM MLS head gaskets (stock gaskets)
• New GM rockers (optional, if yours look good its just a "piece of mind" thing)
• New exhaust manifold gaskets (steel shim type, OEM style)
• For the heads...
  • Set of new intake and valve seals
  • Clean / decarbon intakes if neccessry. How do they look ?
  • Valve springs seem to live forever with these motors, if your gonna do the valve seals you could toss new springs on, but its not really needed. Cheap though if you want the piece of mind
  • If it ran good before, and valves didn't leak when you tested - I'd leave OEM valve job alone.
  • Check surface of heads after cleanup, if you did any damage might be a good idea to have the deck skimmed with a fresh cut at the cylinder head shop.
• New OEM plug wires / plugs
• New valve cover gaskets
• New OEM water pump / thermostat (not really part of doing the heads / lifters, but if you want to knock it out now.....)
  • If doing water pump - new hoses
  • Check radiator end caps for seepage. If it shown any signs of weeping, swap radiator too
• AFM solenoid / lifter valley cover - You could change this out to a fresh one if you were paranoid, but it can be changed later just by pulling the intake so it's not really a big deal. I personally wouldn't bother changing it, unless the motor looked nasty inside from lack of oil changes, or if metal had gone thru the motor.

What head bolts would you use? New stretch or Arp.

 

[welldigger00]

Factory

 

[Bigbore500r]

What head bolts would you use? New stretch or Arp.

Factory are fine, most importantly the bolt holes have to be chased and 100% clean with all the junk blown out of the blind tapped holes. Using an old head bolt with 2 relief slots cut vertically into the threads works well for this. The taps and thread chasers sold are extremely brittle and snap off in the block easy, i'm not a fan of using them. Having junk left in the bolt holes is the #1 cause of snapping head bolts during re-assembly and torquing. Even if using ARP - you won't get a correct torque / clamping force if the bolt is bottoming out on debris in the bolt hole.

 

[welldigger00]

Ok, so final results are in. Almost $5k in parts, and we’re back online. With only a small little amount of self imposed drama, all systems go.

 

[Justsomeguy]

Ok, so final results are in. Almost $5k in parts, and we’re back online. With only a small little amount of self imposed drama, all systems go. View attachment 1473042 View attachment 1473043

Very nice!

 

[TrollerDave]

Ok, so final results are in. Almost $5k in parts, and we’re back online. With only a small little amount of self imposed drama, all systems go. View attachment 1473042 View attachment 1473043

Kick ass!
Do you got an opening next Friday? I can drop mine off about 8:00am.

Great job on getting it done.

 

[Justsomeguy]

Kick ass!
Do you got an opening next Friday? I can drop mine off about 8:00am.

Great job on getting it done.

He did that fast. It took me a little over a month to do my duramax.

 

[welldigger00]

Holy shit boys. I’m 50 years old this year, and I can tell you this; my ribs are bruised, my arms are bruised. My back fucking kills. I give mucho props to the boys that bend wrench for a living. I took the hood off, but you still have to get in retarded positions. I’m super stoked on how it turned out, and I know that I would not be happy with the result that came back from my local dealership. Plus, I figure I saved 2-3 grand in labor. Plus it kept me entertained for a week.

 

[Justsomeguy]

Holy shit boys. I’m 50 years old this year, and I can tell you this; my ribs are bruised, my arms are bruised. My back fucking kills. I give mucho props to the boys that bend wrench for a living. I took the hood off, but you still have to get in retarded positions. I’m super stoked on how it turned out, and I know that I would not be happy with the result that came back from my local dealership. Plus, I figure I saved 2-3 grand in labor. Plus it kept me entertained for a week.

Lol I had bruises on my legs and ass. I was cracking up.

 

[Justsomeguy]

I can't Believe you nailed that out in a week. That's the part that impresses me thr most.

 

[welldigger00]

can't Believe you nailed that out in a week. That's the part that impresses me thr most.

Thank you amigo. I just attacked it like it owed me rent. I’d be in the garage at 530 in the morning, and wouldn’t let up till 4 or so every evening. Not stopping to eat or anything. I watched a ton of you tubes on the how too’s. It actually wasn’t that big of a deal. I did throw away a set of head gaskets and head bolts because I had major self doubt on the procedure. I’ve never installed TTY (torque to yeild) hard wear before. I was not happy how it went together the first time, and after too many you tubes, I was tripping balls that I broke the block, because of the poping sound that the hardware made while torquing up. So, at like 330 in the morning I was in the garage pulling it back apart. Turns out, everything was fine. The head bolts are not like what I’ve done a million times in the past. You don’t thread them in with your fingers until they touch the head, then run your torque procedure. They’ve got sealant on them, even though the block is blind holes, and not in the water jacket. They’d stop well before touching the head. You’d run them down till they touch with the ratchet. Then run them up to 56 ft lbs. Then 90*s, then an additional 60*s! You can feel them stretch in the holes. Not a comfortable scenario. It all went good i think. Time will tell!

 

[Bigbore500r]

Ok, so final results are in. Almost $5k in parts, and we’re back online. With only a small little amount of self imposed drama, all systems go. View attachment 1473042 View attachment 1473043

Nice work !

At least you know it was done RIGHT and you handled everything needed. Should be solid for a long time to come!