Got an AZ address you can ship it too?Snagged a vanity mirror and faucet on sale. Toilet is another story. No one will ship it to California because of some plastic chemical nonsense. Grr.
View attachment 964822
Got an AZ address you can ship it too?
Cool...I was gonna offer mine if notyeah house in Parker.
whats the plan for privacy for the crapper?
Reading this brings to mind I assume you have planned for emergency egress in your design process.6 of the windows are getting double tinted and 1” foam board insulated closed. The latches are being removed and they’ll be bolted shut from the outside in case I ever needed to open them as they’ll be inaccessible from inside after the furring strips, insulation, and plywood go up.
Reading this brings to mind I assume you have planned for emergency egress in your design process.
Videos:
Home Depot run tonight for more 2x4s. I ran out doing all the framing.
They were offering free batteries so I had to snag another Milwaukee. Next I’ll be buying the pex tool to do all the pex plumbing in the bus. But I needed a new jigsaw. I have a cheapy and I think I dropped it or something it always cut crooked I just dealt with it. Now I can make nice round cuts for the plywood walls. At least that’s what I told the wife. Hah.
View attachment 965816
They work but I would do UPONOR expansive pex all day long over a sharkbite. See pictures on the plumbing forum regularly of them failing.I've used Sharkbites at the river house and on my toy hauler repairs. Super simple. No leaks or issues.
They work but I would do UPONOR expansive pex all day long over a sharkbite. See pictures on the plumbing forum regularly of them failing.
Some HD carry the tool if not Hirsch Pipe has them along with all the fittings. Buy a few sticks of it and roll tubing. Sticks make the straight small pieces easier as the rolls tend to bend back to roll shape.
They work but I would do UPONOR expansive pex all day long over a sharkbite. See pictures on the plumbing forum regularly of them failing.
Some HD carry the tool if not Hirsch Pipe has them along with all the fittings. Buy a few sticks of it and roll tubing. Sticks make the straight small pieces easier as the rolls tend to bend back to roll shape.
You should return those breakers and purchase arc fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) types.
Or, you can continue to ignore anything I post because your feelings were hurt by my comments about your generator plans.
has nothing to do with that. Rdp isn’t the only place I get information from. I research a bunch of other builds and even toured a bunch of new professional builds locally.
As far as the breakers, thanks for the tip. I’ll look into swapping em out. Is it an afci breaker for every single circuit or can one be put at the main to cover em all?
I didn’t take offense to the generator idea. Again it was an idea and I havent gone forward with it. Mostly because I wanted to know how much off grid we would be doing before making plans for power solar etc.
Actually there’s plans in motion to get an 8kw power tech diesel gen.
I appreciate all the info and tips. They’re very helpful.
that’s the route I was going to go. I’m basically following another YouTube with his conversion and that’s the way he did his bus. I ordered the Milwaukee tool just waiting for it to ship to my Home Depot. Got a free m12 battery with it as well!
Actually there’s plans in motion to get an 8kw power tech diesel gen.
You should return those breakers and purchase arc fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) types.
Or, you can continue to ignore anything I post because your feelings were hurt by my comments about your generator plans.
AFCI breakers have been required for circuits feeding electrical outlets in residential bedrooms by the electrical codes of Canada and the United States since the beginning of the 21st century; the U.S. National Electrical Code has required them to protect most residential outlets since 2014,[2] and the Canadian Electrical Code has since 2015. Starting with the 1999 version of the National Electrical Code in the United States, and the 2002 version of the Canadian Electrical Code in Canada, the national codes require AFCIs in all circuits that feed outlets in bedrooms of dwelling units.
As of the 2014 NEC, AFCI protection is required on all branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in dwelling unit kitchens, along with the 2008 NEC additions of family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, and similar rooms and areas. They are also required in dormitory units. This requirement may be accomplished by using a "combination type" breaker—a specific kind of circuit-breaker defined by UL 1699—in the breaker panel that provides combined arc-fault and overcurrent protection or by using an AFCI receptacle for modifications/extensions, as replacement receptacles or in new construction, at the first outlet on the branch. Not all U.S. jurisdictions have adopted the NEC's AFCI requirements so it is important to check local code requirements.
Arc-fault circuit interrupter - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
has nothing to do with that. Rdp isn’t the only place I get information from. I research a bunch of other builds and even toured a bunch of new professional builds locally.
As far as the breakers, thanks for the tip. I’ll look into swapping em out. Is it an afci breaker for every single circuit or can one be put at the main to cover em all?
I didn’t take offense to the generator idea. Again it was an idea and I havent gone forward with it. Mostly because I wanted to know how much off grid we would be doing before making plans for power solar etc.
Actually there’s plans in motion to get an 8kw power tech diesel gen.
I appreciate all the info and tips. They’re very helpful.
Gfci breakers were going to go for kitchen bathroom and one receptacle in the bays on each side. They just didn’t have enough in stock so I held off from buying em.
The preferred method is to use AFCI breakers, with GFCI receptacles at those locations. The AFCI device protects against any loose and arcing connections on the entire circuit, and the GFCI receptacle provides ground fault protection at the point of use.
The preferred method is to use AFCI breakers, with GFCI receptacles at those locations. The AFCI device protects against any loose and arcing connections on the entire circuit, and the GFCI receptacle provides ground fault protection at the point of use.
same afci on the 20 amp ac circuits?
This was my train of thought before i purchased mine. At the end of the day, the park and those around me arent the ones that are going to have to pay for repairs if my shit fails due to low voltage. So far, the Autoformer and EMS have been one of the best purchases ive made to date for my RVRight after having to replace thousands of dollars worth of stuff in your RV because of low voltage, You get less sympathetic about this whole thing. I am not willing to garbage the entire electrical system in my RV due to this. I am well aware there is no free lunch on this. I can also just charge the 12v house batteries and run everything off them if things get too crazy. Inverters and generators are a real plus. As said, I will be hard wiring one into my coach this spring.
@ka0tyk - with most RV resorts requiring RVIA certification to gain entry, are you going to try and get it certified. My custom built trailer does not have a RVIA cert (sticker) and I have been unable to check into a few RV resort due to that missing sticker.
I don’t really think I’d have a problem pulling in with a vehicle that exists in their db. When they ask for make/model etc is probably where you have your issue. But if I hit that problem I’ll look into it. We already have two trips booked at a KOA site in the future for a test run and no issue so far.
@ka0tyk - with most RV resorts requiring RVIA certification to gain entry, are you going to try and get it certified. My custom built trailer does not have a RVIA cert (sticker) and I have been unable to check into a few RV resort due to that missing sticker.