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Commercial air compressor

JUSTWANNARACE

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Sounds like that isn't plumbed properly. Look at the open 90 with a loose Farrel on the left side of the switch. If that blowing air bingo. Make sure that switch is only getting head pressure. Some models will t that back to the case.

I was thinking something wasnt right with that. But I'm not femilure with that particular one. And the "union" fixed it, and I'm just a "scab"🤣🤣j/k
 

Morehart

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Did the system ever work? I'm still looking at the piping coming out of the head feeding the pressure relief/cut out and wonder why the bare copper is bent and showing. If your not build pressure straight out the head to the tank then it's not a compressor. Feel the intake from the filter. That should suck your palm into it. If not I bet that's the case. Improper pluming
 

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Cobalt232

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I've had good luck with Ciason's in Santa Ana. We run a nitrogen generator that needs continual air.

 

BHC Vic

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Did the system ever work? I'm still looking at the piping coming out of the head feeding the pressure relief/cut out and wonder why the bare copper is bent and showing. If your not build pressure straight out the head to the tank then it's not a compressor. Feel the intake from the filter. That should suck your palm into it. If not I bet that's the case. Improper pluming
It worked. Then General did some stuff and then thermal air and now we are here. Since neither could get it working the boss said just replace it

That part is all new replaced last week. Before that it was building up a lot more pressure
 

Bigbore500r

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@BHC Vic This thread is making my head hurt . . .
That black box is a pressure actuated switch that kicks the compressor off and on at the PSI limits it is set at.

Like most things now days, it seems like EVERYBODY sucks at their job.
Im guessing air compressor technicians are liable to fall into this category, along with many boat mechanics, auto mechanics, parts swapping dealer "techs", mobile RV mechanics, cashiers, DMV counter attendants, autozone employees, Spectrum internet workers, and democratic presidential candidates . . . . .

Here's how you figure this out yourself.:
You have 5 things that could be happening -
  1. misadjusted (or bad) pressure switch
  2. leak in air line somewhere in building
  3. leak at tank
  4. obstructed air intake / obstructed pressure outlet to tank
  5. bad compressor head
Since the motor isn't making noise, smoking or tripping breakers.....we'll leave the motor out of the equation for now....unless you have more info on that

Troubleshooting the Switch

Typical function (for exacmple) Shutoff at 150 PSI . . tank drains down....turns back on at 90 PSI (your values may vary)

A - If it's building the required air pressure but not shutting off - adjust the switch so it shuts off where you want it.

B - If its not kicking back on once it's off - adjust the switch so it does.

If either A or B above can't be done - switch is bad, replace the switch. Also check the pressure line to ensure the switch is seeing the tank pressure (not kinked or blocked)

Troubleshooting the Air lines / tank

A - When it's spun, does it make air pressure?
If Yes - it's working

B - Does it seem to fill slower than normal?
If yes - test if air lines in building have a leak. Pressurize air lines with gauge attached and see if it leaks down. If it leaks down rapidly - there's your problem. If not . . . step 2 . . .
Disconnect air lines and have it only fill the tank. Does the tank have a leak?
If not - your compressor head isn't moving enough air. Next step...


Troubleshooting the compressor head
Check air intake - is it clean and unobstructed?
If YES .....Can you feel the compressor strongly sucking air thru the intake opening when its spinning?
If No (or it seems weak) - compressor either isn't moving air, or its moving a reduced volume of air.
Check the pressure outlet piping betwen the compressor and the tank. If its kinked, replace it - may be reducing the compressors ability to move air.
If not - compressor head is likely bad. But again - make sure the heads are right, you can't feel air leaks around the cylinders, etc.

If you want to see if the compressor head is within spec for what CFM it is supposed to be putting out - there's math formulas to calculate how long it should take for the compressor head to fill your size of tank. Google search will show you the formula, simple math. You can use this to see if the compressor is in the ballpark or not, based on how long it takes to fill your tank to the PSI you are working with in the formula.


Go check this shit out! Then teach carpenters how to do the same!



the-more-you-know.gif
 
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BHC Vic

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@BHC Vic This thread is making my head hurt . . .
That black box is a pressure actuated switch that kicks the compressor off and on at the PSI limits it is set at.

Like most things now days, it seems like EVERYBODY sucks at their job.
Im guessing air compressor technicians are liable to fall into this category, along with many boat mechanics, auto mechanics, parts swapping dealer "techs", mobile RV mechanics, cashiers, DMV counter attendants, autozone employees, Spectrum internet workers, and democratic presidential candidates . . . . .

Here's how you figure this out yourself.:
You have 5 things that could be happening -
  1. misadjusted (or bad) pressure switch
  2. leak in air line somewhere in building
  3. leak at tank
  4. obstructed air intake
  5. bad compressor head
Since the motor isn't making noise, smoking or tripping breakers.....we'll leave the motor out of the equation for now....unless you have more info on that

Troubleshooting the Switch

Typical function (for exacmple) Shutoff at 150 PSI . . tank drains down....turns back on at 90 PSI (your values may vary)

A - If it's building the required air pressure but not shutting off - adjust the switch so it shuts off where you want it.

B - If its not kicking back on once it's off - adjust the switch so it does.

If either A or B above can't be done - switch is bad, replace the switch. Also check the pressure line to ensure the switch is seeing the tank pressure (not kinked or blocked)

Troubleshooting the Air lines / tank

A - When it's spun, does it make air pressure?
If Yes - it's working

B - Does it seem to fill slower than normal?
If yes - test if air lines in building have a leak. Pressurize air lines with gauge attached and see if it leaks down. If it leaks down rapidly - there's your problem. If not . . . step 2 . . .
Disconnect air lines and have it only fill the tank. Does the tank have a leak?
If not - your compressor head isn't moving enough air. Next step...


Troubleshooting the compressor head
Check air intake - is it clean and unobstructed?
If YES .....Can you feel the compressor strongly sucking air thru the intake opening when its spinning?
If No (or it seems weak) - compressor either isn't moving air, or its moving a reduced volume of air.
If you suspect it's working but not moving as much air as it should, there's math formulas to calculate how long it should take for the compressor head to fill your size of tank. Google search will show you the formula, simple math. You can use this to see if the compressor is in the ballpark or not, based on how long it takes to fill your tank to the PSI you are working with in the formula.


Go check this shit out!


View attachment 1438098
They’ve replaced the box twice.

All the copper shit and lines on the motor were replaced last weak. We were told they were leaking. System was checked for leaks. System is good.

After general replaced the box twice they gave up and said you need a new motor.

Thermal air came and did na they are sticking it to you this stuff here is leaking we can fix it.

That didn’t work and now they won’t even call back. Guy left his tools here and a bucket of oil I guess is my problem now.

My booths are acting up now because no air so boss has just said replace the damn thing. I can’t get anyone to email me quoted for that 😂😂 the day is still young though

I’m about ready to fix it myself and see how much of the 12k the boss will give me 😂😂
 

Bigbore500r

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They’ve replaced the box twice.

All the copper shit and lines on the motor were replaced last weak. We were told they were leaking. System was checked for leaks. System is good.

After general replaced the box twice they gave up and said you need a new motor.

Thermal air came and did na they are sticking it to you this stuff here is leaking we can fix it.

That didn’t work and now they won’t even call back. Guy left his tools here and a bucket of oil I guess is my problem now.

My booths are acting up now because no air so boss has just said replace the damn thing. I can’t get anyone to email me quoted for that 😂😂 the day is still young though

I’m about ready to fix it myself and see how much of the 12k the boss will give me 😂😂

This may seem basic, but just in case . . .

Make sure this valve is fully open! Pressue switch won't work if somebody left this closed, and if it's partially closed it may make the compressor cycle prematurely

Since 2 techs have been there doing different stuff.....ya never know!

1728579961052.png
 

DoughBallin14

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@BHC Vic This thread is making my head hurt . . .
That black box is a pressure actuated switch that kicks the compressor off and on at the PSI limits it is set at.

Like most things now days, it seems like EVERYBODY sucks at their job.
Im guessing air compressor technicians are liable to fall into this category, along with many boat mechanics, auto mechanics, parts swapping dealer "techs", mobile RV mechanics, cashiers, DMV counter attendants, autozone employees, Spectrum internet workers, and democratic presidential candidates . . . . .

Here's how you figure this out yourself.:
You have 5 things that could be happening -
  1. misadjusted (or bad) pressure switch
  2. leak in air line somewhere in building
  3. leak at tank
  4. obstructed air intake / obstructed pressure outlet to tank
  5. bad compressor head
Since the motor isn't making noise, smoking or tripping breakers.....we'll leave the motor out of the equation for now....unless you have more info on that

Troubleshooting the Switch

Typical function (for exacmple) Shutoff at 150 PSI . . tank drains down....turns back on at 90 PSI (your values may vary)

A - If it's building the required air pressure but not shutting off - adjust the switch so it shuts off where you want it.

B - If its not kicking back on once it's off - adjust the switch so it does.

If either A or B above can't be done - switch is bad, replace the switch. Also check the pressure line to ensure the switch is seeing the tank pressure (not kinked or blocked)

Troubleshooting the Air lines / tank

A - When it's spun, does it make air pressure?
If Yes - it's working

B - Does it seem to fill slower than normal?
If yes - test if air lines in building have a leak. Pressurize air lines with gauge attached and see if it leaks down. If it leaks down rapidly - there's your problem. If not . . . step 2 . . .
Disconnect air lines and have it only fill the tank. Does the tank have a leak?
If not - your compressor head isn't moving enough air. Next step...


Troubleshooting the compressor head
Check air intake - is it clean and unobstructed?
If YES .....Can you feel the compressor strongly sucking air thru the intake opening when its spinning?
If No (or it seems weak) - compressor either isn't moving air, or its moving a reduced volume of air.
Check the pressure outlet piping betwen the compressor and the tank. If its kinked, replace it - may be reducing the compressors ability to move air.
If not - compressor head is likely bad. But again - make sure the heads are right, you can't feel air leaks around the cylinders, etc.

If you want to see if the compressor head is within spec for what CFM it is supposed to be putting out - there's math formulas to calculate how long it should take for the compressor head to fill your size of tank. Google search will show you the formula, simple math. You can use this to see if the compressor is in the ballpark or not, based on how long it takes to fill your tank to the PSI you are working with in the formula.


Go check this shit out! Then teach carpenters how to do the same!



View attachment 1438098

Pretty much laid out my troubleshoot 101 for most of my work days haha. I just have to deal with more like pressure Head unloaders, auto drain valves, dryers, filters, overloads and starters, dewpoint and CO monitors etc.


I am agreeing most probable is that switch is not set properly or getting the proper pressure direct from the tank.
 

BHC Vic

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This may seem basic, but just in case . . .

Make sure this valve is fully open! Pressue switch won't work if somebody left this closed, and if it's partially closed it may make the compressor cycle prematurely

Since 2 techs have been there doing different stuff.....ya never know!

View attachment 1438101
It was closed. I opened it. I’ll report back
 

BHC Vic

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so...... was that it?
No ot still won’t build up enough pressure. I’m not convinced that wouldn’t have fixed it a week ago before thermal air did all kinds of work to it though
 

Bigbore500r

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No ot still won’t build up enough pressure. I’m not convinced that wouldn’t have fixed it a week ago before thermal air did all kinds of work to it though
Is it shutting off before it gets to the required pressure? Or does it keep running trying to make pressure but never gets there?
 

BHC Vic

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Is it shutting off before it gets to the required pressure? Or does it keep running trying to make pressure but never gets there?
Keeps running trying to make the pressure. Before it would make the pressure but keep running
 

Orange Juice

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Harbor freight has them. 😜

The biggest thing that kills a compressor are leaks, and it running all day and night.
 

DoughBallin14

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Keeps running trying to make the pressure. Before it would make the pressure but keep running
Sounds like a leak somewhere, bad intake filters, worn valve plates in the head, or wear bands (rings) on the pistons.

If it just runs and never gets to the set point (80,90,100psi) then there is restriction on air getting in the cylinder, or not sealing enough to create higher pressure as the pressure gets higher in the cylinder's, or substantial leak while compressing once it gets up in the higher range.

You could remove the intake air filters and run it for testing purposes at least.

Ps champion and ingersol suck with getting internal repair parts for. Typically everyone wants you to spend a tad more and just install a new compressor assembly to your current motor and tank.
 

Bigbore500r

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No ot still won’t build up enough pressure. I’m not convinced that wouldn’t have fixed it a week ago before thermal air did all kinds of work to it though
Take an apprentice carpenter who is a gearhead kind of guy, and have him follow the troubleshoot steps I laid out.

They used to pull me from whatever apprentice class I was scheduled for and have me go do finish work somewhere in the offices some somebody could have nicer cabinets, doors, base, etc......unrelated to my class. You can do the same with this compressor and have them fix it. You have the power! lol
 

Waterjunky

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Keeps running trying to make the pressure. Before it would make the pressure but keep running
As much as I hate to say it, The switch going bad and over charging the system by staying running could have damaged the pump itself.

This said, go through the diagnostics but keep it in the back of your mind.
 

BHC Vic

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Take an apprentice carpenter who is a gearhead kind of guy, and have him follow the troubleshoot steps I laid out.

They used to pull me from whatever apprentice class I was scheduled for and have me go do finish work somewhere in the offices some somebody could have nicer cabinets, doors, base, etc......unrelated to my class. You can do the same with this compressor and have them fix it. You have the power! lol
Apprentices complained to the committee about that. They have to take their classes now. But it sounds like you know Galo
 

BHC Vic

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As much as I hate to say it, The switch going bad and over charging the system by staying running could have damaged the pump itself.

This said, go through the diagnostics but keep it in the back of your mind.
I think this is where we are at now
 

Rennsport

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if you end up replacing (and upgrading) have a look at Kaeser screw units.

this is a seller/installer:

Jim Dyball

10144 Freeman Ave

Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670

(562) 572-1463 Cell

www.americancompressor.com
 

BHC Vic

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Got the quote from General. Yes he is a river guy at the islander and the tech Brian live about 8 houses down from me. We are well under budget to replace. Haringa should be sending one over and if I have some time today I have a few others to call. Today is technically my day off so I’m washing the cars right now. I’m traveling for the next two weeks so I need to get some things around the house taken care of before I leave.
 

Flying_Lavey

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Got the quote from General. Yes he is a river guy at the islander and the tech Brian live about 8 houses down from me. We are well under budget to replace. Haringa should be sending one over and if I have some time today I have a few others to call. Today is technically my day off so I’m washing the cars right now. I’m traveling for the next two weeks so I need to get some things around the house taken care of before I leave.
I didn't read the thread in much detail Vic, but did anybody check for leaks on the piping system and compressor? If any of those discharge lines aren't sealed well that were just replaced it can cause a large problem with the lack of pressure build-up.
 

BHC Vic

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Need me to send a Millwright over? 😁
The instructor in Whittier said he would do it I have no idea why they don’t have his class maintenance them.
 

SoCalDave

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Can't run a compressor like that at 100% duty cycle. Replace it with a correct size screw compressor and a large holding tank. You'll also need to do a leak down test on the system...on and industrial scale a 1/8" hole in a 3" air main can cost you well over $10k a year in energy cost...and this data was 10 years ago...leaks kill...
 

DoughBallin14

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Can't run a compressor like that at 100% duty cycle. Replace it with a correct size screw compressor and a large holding tank. You'll also need to do a leak down test on the system...on and industrial scale a 1/8" hole in a 3" air main can cost you well over $10k a year in energy cost...and this data was 10 years ago...leaks kill...
This is the truth for sure!!

We are testing to find leaks at every point of connection in every patient room using ultrasonic microphones, and leak solution on all accessible valves, pressure switches, hoses, transducers, etc.

Even though some efforts feel like they go to waste when a patient gets taken away to lets say an xray and the nursing or transport staff leave an oxygen canula flow meter on at 3-4 liters per minute to nothing for an hour or so lol
 

Bigbore500r

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I didn't read the thread in much detail Vic, but did anybody check for leaks on the piping system and compressor? If any of those discharge lines aren't sealed well that were just replaced it can cause a large problem with the lack of pressure build-up.
I tried to squeeze this info out of them. The information is limited to "it used to make air .... now it doesn't"
:D
 
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