Cam reco for L83 5.3L

[pronstar]

Doing a full DOD/AFM hardware delete on the wife’s 2018 Suburban, it’s a 5.3L and has 3.08 gears. Fresh GM reman 6L80.

Shop is recommending an OEM-style delete cam, so same profile as stock/no power gains, doesn’t even need a tune (I’ve already disabled DOD/AFM via HP Tuners).

They say even a Stage 1 BTR/Texas Speed cam designed for stock-stall converter will lose 50 lb-ft below 3k rpm, and the truck will be a bit of a dog.

The adult in me says I should follow their reco, but I wanted to see if the inmates had any recommendations.

Also, there’s probably a lot of “while you’re in there” stuff to consider. The shop is putting the numbers together for me, but I want to make sure I’m educated as much as possible before I start signing papers.

What would you guys evaluate/replace while I have the motor apart? Work will be done with the motor in the truck, not on a stand.

Thanks fellers

 

[eand28]

Since it’s the wife’s rig, I’d go with the stock style non dod cam. Less likely to have future headaches

 

[lbhsbz]

It’s the wife’s rig, leave it alone or you’ll be hearing about it

 

[rivermobster]

Doing a full DOD/AFM hardware delete on the wife’s 2018 Suburban, it’s a 5.3L and has 3.08 gears. Fresh GM reman 6L80.

Shop is recommending an OEM-style delete cam, so same profile as stock/no power gains, doesn’t even need a tune (I’ve already disabled DOD/AFM via HP Tuners).

They say even a Stage 1 BTR/Texas Speed cam designed for stock-stall converter will lose 50 lb-ft below 3k rpm, and the truck will be a bit of a dog.

The adult in me says I should follow their reco, but I wanted to see if the inmates had any recommendations.

Also, there’s probably a lot of “while you’re in there” stuff to consider. The shop is putting the numbers together for me, but I want to make sure I’m educated as much as possible before I start signing papers.

What would you guys evaluate/replace while I have the motor apart? Work will be done with the motor in the truck, not on a stand.

Thanks fellers

Call Mike at JMS. He's a master at picking cams. We did a bunch of LS cam swaps when I worked there.

 

[pronstar]

I know keeping the stock cam profile is the adult thing to do LOL

My truck has the same drivetrain and I'll be updating it with a bigger cam for sure...that should scratch some of the itch LOL

 

[pronstar]

Call Mike at JMS. He's a master at picking cams. We did a bunch of LS cam swaps when I worked there.

What be JMS?

 

[pronstar]

Since it’s the wife’s rig, I’d go with the stick style non dod cam. Less likely to have future headaches

It’s the wife’s rig, leave it alone or you’ll be hearing about it

She was with me when I had my blown expedition...and she's already told me that I'd better not fuck with her truck...I forgot to post that part

 

[TimeBandit]

Really nothing beats the stock cam from idle to 2500 rpm in most cases.

For towing or getting groceries, stock is hip.

 

[Gelcoater]

Daily driver?
Go mild.

 

[pronstar]

Daily driver?
Go mild.

Yeah it's literally the mom-mobile.

 

[OCMerrill]

I know keeping the stock cam profile is the adult thing to do LOL

My truck has the same drivetrain and I'll be updating it with a bigger cam for sure...that should scratch some of the itch LOL

So what your saying is no 3/4 race cam....whatever that is.

How about an RV cam? Not a 1/4 race just for, you know...RV's.

Let me see if I can come up with any more 70's camshaft descriptions.


I would definitely make the DOD completely go away. Disabling it is a good start but springs can still fatigue over time. Your Mechanic is spot on.
They won't affect the lifter's action, just have the ability to make weird noises or at the worst pieces fall down into the cam or crank.

 

[pronstar]

Really nothing beats the stock cam from idle to 2500 rpm in most cases.

For towing or getting groceries, stock is hip.

Paired with VVT, it's honestly surprising how flexible these motors are right off idle.

 

[pronstar]

So what your saying is no 3/4 race cam....whatever that is.

How about an RV cam? Not a 1/4 race just for, you know...RV's.

Let me see if I can come up with any more 70's camshaft descriptions.


I would definitely make the DOD completely go away. Disabling it is a good start but springs can still fatigue over time.
They won't affect the lifter's action, just fall down into the crank.

View attachment 1428789

You know it's sorta funny, some guys I've spoken with have compared the stock cam to an RV cam. Good power down low...a lot of that is due to VVT methinks, since the displacement is only 5.3L

 

[rivermobster]

What be JMS?

Video – JMS Racing Engines

At JMS Racing, we don't crate, we create.

jmsracingengines.com

 

[OCMerrill]

You know it's sorta funny, some guys I've spoken with have compared the stock cam to an RV cam. Good power down low...a lot of that is due to VVT methinks, since the displacement is only 5.3L

Thats likely why it feels quite torquey. Think about this a 323 cu in engine moving a what 6000 lb vehicle around with spirit no less. GM did a great job with the LS based platform and all its variations.

I have a 5.3 in the 2002 Yukon we still have. That engine has like 185k on it and I would drive it to New York tomorrow if I needed to.

No DOD. Thats the longevity answer. I only have something like 285 hp. You have like 50 more but the 3.73 G lock rear end really helps.

 

[DarkHorseRacing]

Drop that Escalade V-series engine in there.

 

[Gelcoater]

Let me see if I can come up with any more 70's camshaft descriptions.


I would definitely

If!
We were talking old school SBC

I’d be saying GM camshaft #3896962

Stock 78-81 corvette shaft.
114* separation a mild stick.
Mucho vacuum for power brakes.
55-5800 rpm depending on heads and spring
We are talking daily driver, wife mobile here.
But this LS engine and head?
I dunno.
3/4 race cam sounds appropriate

 

[HNL2LHC]

She was with me when I had my blown expedition...and she's already told me that I'd better not fuck with her truck...I forgot to post that part

That being the case put the biggest cam you are able to. If she didn’t want you to F it up she should have done it herself. Good luck!! Reminds me of when I bagged my truck and had to cut the exhaust right after the flow master muffler before the rear End. The first time I started up the truck my wife looked at me and said what the F#ck did you do to it.

 

[Romans9]

She was with me when I had my blown expedition...and she's already told me that I'd better not fuck with her truck...I forgot to post that part

Geez brother, do you jack off with sand paper?

Leave it alone……

 

[Big B Hova]

218/218 114lsa would run good me thinks and not too much pop corn or raw fuel smell at idle

 

[pronstar]

218/218 114lsa would run good me thinks and not too much pop corn or raw fuel smell at idle

So just a little raw fuel smell…

 

[pronstar]

218/218 114lsa would run good me thinks and not too much pop corn or raw fuel smell at idle

You know these motors better than most…any “while you’re in there” stuff I should look at or replace?

 

[rivermobster]

You know these motors better than most…any “while you’re in there” stuff I should look at or replace?

Open the hood...

And drive an F150 under it.

You're welcome.

 

[Runs2rch]

3/4 Race Cam!

 

[77charger]

So what your saying is no 3/4 race cam....whatever that is.

How about an RV cam? Not a 1/4 race just for, you know...RV's.

Let me see if I can come up with any more 70's camshaft descriptions.


I would definitely make the DOD completely go away. Disabling it is a good start but springs can still fatigue over time. Your Mechanic is spot on.
They won't affect the lifter's action, just have the ability to make weird noises or at the worst pieces fall down into the cam or crank.

View attachment 1428789

The rv/race cam best of both combo of torque and hp.

 

[Big B Hova]

You know these motors better than most…any “while you’re in there” stuff I should look at or replace?

Replace lifters with Johnson lifters. Ls2 timing chain. Arp cam bolts. Bigger cam will require better valve springs. I ran single high rev beehive springs and beat the crap out of them on my first 6.0 motor

 

[pronstar]

So I’ve landed on a local shop to do the work in a small town called Haltom City. I’m a bit old school, if I’m going to give a shop thousands of dollars I’m going to interview them, talk with them, shake their hand…I got a good vibe. Same location for decades, looks like they can afford to stand behind their work. Got a good referral for them.

It’s sorta funny, I did the same thing when looking for a t-case/differential shop, and transmission shop…they’re all in Haltom City LOL

I’ve got a Texas Speed hardware delete kit coming, OEM-style cam.
New belts and hoses, tensioner.
New cam chain tensioner.
New oil pump.

This shop is pulling the motor, so I’m putting a Circle D triple-disc converter in it with factory stall. Was going to wait until the first service at 30k miles to swap the factory garbage TC, but it’s basically free labor to do it now.

Its just gonna be a couple weeks until they can get to it. So we’re gonna drive it as little as possible until then.

 

[attitude]

So I’ve landed on a local shop to do the work in a small town called Haltom City. I’m a bit old school, if I’m going to give a shop thousands of dollars I’m going to interview them, talk with them, shake their hand…I got a good vibe. Same location for decades, looks like they can afford to stand behind their work. Got a good referral for them.

It’s sorta funny, I did the same thing when looking for a t-case/differential shop, and transmission shop…they’re all in Haltom City LOL

I’ve got a Texas Speed hardware delete kit coming, OEM-style cam.
New belts and hoses, tensioner.
New cam chain tensioner.
New oil pump.

This shop is pulling the motor, so I’m putting a Circle D triple-disc converter in it with factory stall. Was going to wait until the first service at 30k miles to swap the factory garbage TC, but it’s basically free labor to do it now.

Its just gonna be a couple weeks until they can get to it. So we’re gonna drive it as little as possible until then.

While the motor is apart have them check the carbon build up and clean it if needed. The D.I. motors are notorious for it accumulating on the back of the valves.

 

[rivermobster]

So I’ve landed on a local shop to do the work in a small town called Haltom City. I’m a bit old school, if I’m going to give a shop thousands of dollars I’m going to interview them, talk with them, shake their hand…I got a good vibe. Same location for decades, looks like they can afford to stand behind their work. Got a good referral for them.

It’s sorta funny, I did the same thing when looking for a t-case/differential shop, and transmission shop…they’re all in Haltom City LOL

I’ve got a Texas Speed hardware delete kit coming, OEM-style cam.
New belts and hoses, tensioner.
New cam chain tensioner.
New oil pump.

This shop is pulling the motor, so I’m putting a Circle D triple-disc converter in it with factory stall. Was going to wait until the first service at 30k miles to swap the factory garbage TC, but it’s basically free labor to do it now.

Its just gonna be a couple weeks until they can get to it. So we’re gonna drive it as little as possible until then.

Definitely gonna be a stack of thousands there.

 

[Bigbore500r]

Doing a full DOD/AFM hardware delete on the wife’s 2018 Suburban, it’s a 5.3L and has 3.08 gears. Fresh GM reman 6L80.

Shop is recommending an OEM-style delete cam, so same profile as stock/no power gains, doesn’t even need a tune (I’ve already disabled DOD/AFM via HP Tuners).

They say even a Stage 1 BTR/Texas Speed cam designed for stock-stall converter will lose 50 lb-ft below 3k rpm, and the truck will be a bit of a dog.

The adult in me says I should follow their reco, but I wanted to see if the inmates had any recommendations.

Also, there’s probably a lot of “while you’re in there” stuff to consider. The shop is putting the numbers together for me, but I want to make sure I’m educated as much as possible before I start signing papers.

What would you guys evaluate/replace while I have the motor apart? Work will be done with the motor in the truck, not on a stand.

Thanks fellers

I wouldn't bother camming the mom mobile. Theres plenty of cams out there that "gain power everywhere. The problem is - define "everywhere"?
Everywhere to the tester = the RPM range of the dyno test. So it makes more power from 2800-6000. Nobody is pulling them down and testing at 1500rpm, 1700rpm, etc - which is where it lives around town and cruising on the freeway. It's not worth it for the mom mobile. If you really want to add MILF POWER - Slap a little blower on there! Drives like stock, makes more power EVERYWHERE.

As far as what to change while heads are off (besides lifters) - make sure to use new lifter trays, as they are plastic and get worn. I would use Johnson lifters, as the OEM have been a crapshoot lately. They're a little pricey, but worth the piece of mind. New OEM chain. New cam bolt. Use new intake seals. even if they look fine. Since the heads are off, and it's a DI motor - I would have the ports cleaned up and de-carboned if they look nasty. Now's the time....

Happy modding!

 

[Bigbore500r]

Replace lifters with Johnson lifters. Ls2 timing chain. Arp cam bolts. Bigger cam will require better valve springs. I ran single high rev beehive springs and beat the crap out of them on my first 6.0 motor

Behive's werent the problem,.....driving it with tapping lifters to redline for a year may have has something to do with the failure

 

[pronstar]

While the motor is apart have them check the carbon build up and clean it if needed. The D.I. motors are notorious for it accumulating on the back of the valves.

Yup,
I didn’t put a catch can on it until the warranty expired at 100k…Im really curious to see how bad it is in there.

 

[pronstar]

Definitely gonna be a stack of thousands there.

Yeah it’s gonna sting but big picture I think it’s the smart move. I bought this Suburban for mid-40s and can’t replace it for anywhere near that, plus I know the maintenance history.

I look at the torque converter as saving money…I had a no-name TC installed in my Silverado 4 years back when money was tight, was $1600. For the Suburban, I’m getting a top-quality converter installed for basically the $1100 price of the part.

 

[Big B Hova]

Behive's werent the problem,.....driving it with tapping lifters to redline for a year may have has something to do with the failure

My cam was self grinding, so it just kept getting better until it didn't lol

 

[pronstar]

Its “hurry up and wait” time…

 

[Runs2rch]

Its “hurry up and wait” time…

View attachment 1433415

What converter did you end up ordering?

 

[GreenEnergy28]

Call Mike at JMS. He's a master at picking cams. We did a bunch of LS cam swaps when I worked there.

I had him build my 6.0. I'm adding twins so ditched the BTR stage 3 truck cam for one of his cam guys custom turbo cams. Still working on getting the tune dialed in, but I can tell you this much, she sure whacks the tach in a hurry.

 

[pronstar]

What converter did you end up ordering?

Stock stall, triple-disk. Trying to keep stock drivability for Mrs Pronstar.

Circle D says my current programming mods done via HP Tuners are perfect for it.

Programming mods I’ve done:
- 20% increase in line pressure
- 20% increase is upshifts speed
- lockup in 5th & 6th gears only
- eliminate commanded TC slip

 

[pronstar]

Dropped the truck off at the shop to get the AFM/DOD hardware deleted. Had to wait for an opening, so I used the time to gather parts.

Here’s what’s being done, most of it is “while you’re in there” stuff:

• Texas Speed delete kit, OEM cam profile
• Timing chain and tensioner
• Oil pump
• All belts and cooling hoses
• Belt drive tensioner
• Water pump
• Oil pump control valve solenoid wire
• Circle D triple-disk converter, OEM stall
• Clean intake manifold, ports and intake valve

Truck is in great shape, so doing what I can to keep it that way and on the road.

Should be done sometime next week. Hopefully I won’t run into any tuning issues with the torque converter, because my HP Tuner skills are beginner-level at best.