Big block Chevrolet leaking oil. Help!!!

[was thatguy]

I don’t see the fiber disc behind the retainer plate.

 

[Jed-O]

I don’t see the fiber disc behind the retainer plate.

Curious, please explain.

 

[Jed-O]

That's not the proper filter, me thinks.. being your not running a cooler adapter you should be running like a fram hp 4, ? style with a flat adapter plate....it's been a foggy bit, but he fasteners holding the adapter to the block should be a torx or allen head...

I have Allen heads and they seem to stick out way too far and also cause clearance issues.

 

[was thatguy]

Curious, please explain.

That little round steel disc with the hole in it on the adapter.
The relief disc (usually brown colored) should be up against the steel disc (underneath it).
It has a spring behind it and you can push it in with a small punch or screwdriver.
I don’t see it up against the steel disc?

 

[was thatguy]

I have Allen heads and they seem to stick out way too far and also cause clearance issues.

The stock bolts are 5/16 thread with a small hex head on them, as I remember? Like a 5/6 or 1/4” wrench size?

 

[Jed-O]

That little round steel disc with the hole in it on the adapter.
The relief disc (usually brown colored) should be up against the steel disc (underneath it).
It has a spring behind it and you can push it in with a small punch or screwdriver.
I don’t see it up against the steel disc?

 

[was thatguy]

View attachment 683648 View attachment 683648 View attachment 683648

Ok, got it.
It’s been a while!

 

[Jed-O]

No worries buddy! This is a first for me. I've run high pressure before and have never had any issues like this. Just fugured I'd pick everyone's brain.

 

[was thatguy]

No worries buddy! This is a first for me. I've run high pressure before and have never had any issues like this. Just fugured I'd pick everyone's brain.

Yeah it’s a puzzler.
I’ve ran all kinds of high volume and high pressure pumps and have never blown out a filter gasket.
I will say that priming with a drill the drill always bogs down, even a stout 1/2” drill without a distributor adapter (only priming one side) will struggle.

 

[Jed-O]

Yeah it’s a puzzler.
I’ve ran all kinds of high volume and high pressure pumps and have never blown out a filter gasket.
I will say that priming with a drill the drill always bogs down, even a stout 1/2” drill without a distributor adapter (only priming one side) will struggle.

Yeah my cordless Porter Cable 20 volt max is struggling struggling something fierce when it finally builds pressure.

 

[guest hs]

Guys guys your not listening he didn’t change anything on the oil filter adapter and he put his original filter on that leaves me to believe that something is wrong with the oil pump he put in.

 

[4Waters]

Guys guys your not listening he didn’t change anything on the oil filter adapter and he put his original filter on that leaves me to believe that something is wrong with the oil pump he put in.

That's what I'm trying to get at. Put a different mechanical test gauge on it, and what oil pump was put on.

 

[Jed-O]

That's what I'm trying to get at. Put a different mechanical test gauge on it, and what oil pump was put on.

Stand by, I'm searching for the receipt.

 

[Jed-O]

found it in my truck. Part number is SEA 224-4153

 

[4Waters]

View attachment 683766 found it in my truck. Part number is SEA 224-4153

Ok nothing special, I was thinking it was adjustable pressure. Still put a different gauge on it and verify the pressure, still could be a bad relief valve.

 

[Jed-O]

Sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the advice.

 

[4Waters]

Sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the advice.

Part of diag. You replace the pump now you have so much pressure it's pushing past the filter gasket with only 60psi. Why did you replace the pump in the first place if the pressure was low according to the gauge it might not have been if the gauge (or sending unit if electrical) is bad. The other thing is if it's an electric gauge and the sweep of the gauge doesn't doesn't match the sending unit your gauge won't display the proper pressure.

 

[Jed-O]

Part of diag. You replace the pump now you have so much pressure it's pushing past the filter gasket with only 60psi. Why did you replace the pump in the first place if the pressure was low according to the gauge it might not have been if the gauge (or sending unit if electrical) is bad. The other thing is if it's an electric gauge and the sweep of the gauge doesn't doesn't match the sending unit your gauge won't display the proper pressure.

A little chain of events:
Rebuilt engine using existing Moroso V-drive oil pan.
- Pan leaks badly upon first run in the water at the gasket.
-Replace pan gasket, and rtv the shit out of the problem spots.
-take boat to the river and run all weekend with a small leak still present continuously mopping up oil from the bilge.
-Ordered new Dooley Pan and pick up For $622 and tried to get old pickup off of the original oil pump to no avail. (yes I spent 2 hours heating with a torch and not a budge.
-ordered new pump, and installed it with the new pickup designed for my new pan.
-reinstalled the engine for the 20th time (i'm getting pretty good at it)Installed all the rest to fire it up and here we are.

The sending unit is the same one I've been using since day 1 but the gauge could be fucked up due to its age.

 

[MSum661]

A little chain of events:
Rebuilt engine using existing Moroso V-drive oil pan.
- Pan leaks badly upon first run in the water at the gasket.
-Replace pan gasket, and rtv the shit out of the problem spots.
-take boat to the river and run all weekend with a small leak still present continuously mopping up oil from the bilge.
-Ordered new Dooley Pan and pick up For $622 and tried to get old pickup off of the original oil pump to no avail. (yes I spent 2 hours heating with a torch and not a budge.
-ordered new pump, and installed it with the new pickup designed for my new pan.
-reinstalled the engine for the 20th time (i'm getting pretty good at it)Installed all the rest to fire it up and here we are.

The sending unit is the same one I've been using since day 1 but the gauge could be fucked up due to its age.

Just asking.....did you prime the new pump before lighting it off?
Also, did you cut open the Wix filter to inspect for any debris?
Just hoping you didn't spin a bearing causing an oil passage blockage after the new pump was installed.

 

[Jed-O]

yes I did prime. but I haven't opened up the filter yet. Yeah I hope that isn't the case as well. if it is I'm back to owning a really expensive row boat.

 

[BDMar]

I kinda read it all but not totally so I may miss something. But the red flag that sticks out in my memory is you saying you used allen headed bolts to hold the adapter on and when you removed the filter, there were marks from them hitting the inside area of the filter. DO NOT try to re-invent the wheel here. What you have works. It works on thousands of BBC engines. Th bolts that are supplied with that cast oil filter adapter are not allen bolts. As someone already mentioned, they are small hex heads and I think from memory they have a shoulder on them (built in washer). The height is about half that of an allen bolt. You've answered your own question. If the filter is hitting the bolts it can't tighten enough to crush the gasket properly and you probably only need another 1/2 turn. Also, the Wix 51060 is the proper filter whether it's the "R" or standard. We've used thousands of those and the 51060R is currently on my engines.
I can't stress enough, don't re-invent the wheel here.

 

[obnoxious001]

View attachment 683766 found it in my truck. Part number is SEA 224-4153

Someone stuck you pretty good on the price of that pump, Summit shows it at $46 https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/slp-224-4153/overview/

As Brian said, you have the correct filter, but the evidence of the bolts rubbing should be giving you the answer. Even if you don't have the special bolts, a normal hex head bolt with a thin wall socket should work. Without seeing your two filters, I would have to assume the recess is slightly different with the new one vs the old filter.

 

[4Waters]

I kinda read it all but not totally so I may miss something. But the red flag that sticks out in my memory is you saying you used allen headed bolts to hold the adapter on and when you removed the filter, there were marks from them hitting the inside area of the filter. DO NOT try to re-invent the wheel here. What you have works. It works on thousands of BBC engines. Th bolts that are supplied with that cast oil filter adapter are not allen bolts. As someone already mentioned, they are small hex heads and I think from memory they have a shoulder on them (built in washer). The height is about half that of an allen bolt. You've answered your own question. If the filter is hitting the bolts it can't tighten enough to crush the gasket properly and you probably only need another 1/2 turn. Also, the Wix 51060 is the proper filter whether it's the "R" or standard. We've used thousands of those and the 51060R is currently on my engines.
I can't stress enough, don't re-invent the wheel here.

I missed the bolts hitting the filter, that is most likely the problem, that needs to be fixed first then check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge if it is still leaking.

 

[Jed-O]

I kinda read it all but not totally so I may miss something. But the red flag that sticks out in my memory is you saying you used allen headed bolts to hold the adapter on and when you removed the filter, there were marks from them hitting the inside area of the filter. DO NOT try to re-invent the wheel here. What you have works. It works on thousands of BBC engines. Th bolts that are supplied with that cast oil filter adapter are not allen bolts. As someone already mentioned, they are small hex heads and I think from memory they have a shoulder on them (built in washer). The height is about half that of an allen bolt. You've answered your own question. If the filter is hitting the bolts it can't tighten enough to crush the gasket properly and you probably only need another 1/2 turn. Also, the Wix 51060 is the proper filter whether it's the "R" or standard. We've used thousands of those and the 51060R is currently on my engines.
I can't stress enough, don't re-invent the wheel here.

Technically I didn't use allen heads, they were just there. but I get what you are saying. Also I just got off the phone with a buddie who has been a mechanic for the last 40 years, His advise was about on par with yours and also to add a little white grease on the metal part of the filter inside the rubber ring to see where / if anywhere it is bottoming out before it seats.
Thanks for the advise! it's something that had crossed our minds among many other things as a potential factor. But I do have a question for you, and I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here. I'm asking because this is a V-drive tunnel and it's a bitch getting the filter in and out.
1. Do you think a bolt on oil filter relocation kit will solve the leak (at least at this location on the block)?
2. Do you think a relocation would be a decent investment or a complete waste of money? I ask because I've been thinking about it for quite a while. and I have to remove the exhaust log and the batteries to access the filter. I'll shoot a picture on my phone.

 

[Jed-O]

 

[nuckingfuts]

I would have installed a remote filter the first time I had to change the filter. Just my opinion.

 

[MSum661]

Technically I didn't use allen heads, they were just there. but I get what you are saying. Also I just got off the phone with a buddie who has been a mechanic for the last 40 years, His advise was about on par with yours and also to add a little white grease on the metal part of the filter inside the rubber ring to see where / if anywhere it is bottoming out before it seats.
.

Well...we're all waiting!!!

 

[BDMar]

Technically I didn't use allen heads, they were just there. but I get what you are saying. Also I just got off the phone with a buddie who has been a mechanic for the last 40 years, His advise was about on par with yours and also to add a little white grease on the metal part of the filter inside the rubber ring to see where / if anywhere it is bottoming out before it seats.
Thanks for the advise! it's something that had crossed our minds among many other things as a potential factor. But I do have a question for you, and I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here. I'm asking because this is a V-drive tunnel and it's a bitch getting the filter in and out.
1. Do you think a bolt on oil filter relocation kit will solve the leak (at least at this location on the block)?
2. Do you think a relocation would be a decent investment or a complete waste of money? I ask because I've been thinking about it for quite a while. and I have to remove the exhaust log and the batteries to access the filter. I'll shoot a picture on my phone.

Absolutely a good investment. Removing the exhaust would happen once for me. I can’t say if it will fix the leak without knowing 100% that’s where it’s leaking. But I suspect it would. If it was at my shop it would be my recommendation.

 

[Classic Daycruiser]

Absolutely a good investment. Removing the exhaust would happen once for me. I can’t say if it will fix the leak without knowing 100% that’s where it’s leaking. But I suspect it would. If it was at my shop it would be my recommendation.

I would also check the oil pressure line, if it's the mechanical type.

What does the oil pressure read when its running at 2000 rpm's?

 

[Jed-O]

Okay, Here's an update, B&D as well as several others including my buddy helping me out all had the same thought. It's the bolts... we changed the bolts and tried again. got to 65 psi and no leak using the drill at low speed. took this afternoon to clean the bilge and re assemble the exhaust and fired it up. 50 psi to 20 psi shut it off to check and oil in the bilge again..... looking up part numbers on the pump (new to old) now. I'll keep you guys posted as progress moves along. Thanks again for your help!

 

[BamBam]

Okay, Here's an update, B&D as well as several others including my buddy helping me out all had the same thought. It's the bolts... we changed the bolts and tried again. got to 65 psi and no leak using the drill at low speed. took this afternoon to clean the bilge and re assemble the exhaust and fired it up. 50 psi to 20 psi shut it off to check and oil in the bilge again..... looking up part numbers on the pump (new to old) now. I'll keep you guys posted as progress moves along. Thanks again for your help!

Any updates? was hoping to see that thing run this weekend in Parker. Hope you got it all figured out.

 

[HST4ME]

I'd just yank the motor and run it on the floor at this point.

 

[Jed-O]

Any updates? was hoping to see that thing run this weekend in Parker. Hope you got it all figured out.

Looking up right now. I've got the filter relocation kit built and installed as of this afternoon. Parts showed up over the weekend. However a couple of things came to a huge light bulb in my head when the parts showed up. I'll be sure to reveal the information to all of you guys if this works out and everything is awesome. If not, I'll just tuck my tail and cry and get shitfaced this weekend at the river. Well let's be honest, I'll probably be getting shitfaced regardless after the boat is out of the water.

 

[Jed-O]

Okay, here is the update, we finished putting everything together yesterday afternoon and got her fired up. Within ten seconds the oil pressure spit the gasket out. It only lost a couple of quarts with the relocation kit because it was so visible. So the consensus is that there must be a blockage somewhere after the filter or the relief valve on the pump isn't working properly. We are pulling the engine out and start to tear things down. So no boat this weekend. I'm bummed for sure... But still going to the river! Hope to run into you guys!

 

[4Waters]

Okay, here is the update, we finished putting everything together yesterday afternoon and got her fired up. Within ten seconds the oil pressure spit the gasket out. It only lost a couple of quarts with the relocation kit because it was so visible. So the consensus is that there must be a blockage somewhere after the filter or the relief valve on the pump isn't working properly. We are pulling the engine out and start to tear things down. So no boat this weekend. I'm bummed for sure... But still going to the river! Hope to run into you guys!

Keep us updated

 

[Bigbore500r]

Did you ever hook up another mechanical gauge and verify your oil pressure is reading correct? It’s not blowing gaskets at 60psi

 

[BamBam]

Bummer... Sorry to hear you have to take the motor back out. That is never fun. My hunch is to look at the pump by-pass as it was the last thing you touched. Logic says look there first, but I understand the reasons (pulling the motor) why you tried a few other options first. There will be a bunch of boats out there this weekend. We will be at Bluewater beach on Saturday morning and I'm sure Fox's a little later in the day after blasting up and down the strip...

 

[Jed-O]

Did you ever hook up another mechanical gauge and verify your oil pressure is reading correct? It’s not blowing gaskets at 60psi

We didn't, just because of the fact that the sending unit is after the filter. It seemed to be throwing extra dollars away at this point. Either way the motor has to be pulled and set on an engine stand pan off as well as pulling the intake off to get the cam out and inspect all the bearings

 

[Jed-O]

Bummer... Sorry to hear you have to take the motor back out. That is never fun. My hunch is to look at the pump by-pass as it was the last thing you touched. Logic says look there first, but I understand the reasons (pulling the motor) why you tried a few other options first. There will be a bunch of boats out there this weekend. We will be at Bluewater beach on Saturday morning and I'm sure Fox's a little later in the day after blasting up and down the strip...

I'll be at Fox's quite a bit since my buddy is staying there! If you see me (a blond dude wearing RDP swag please say hello!

 

[obnoxious001]

So the consensus is that there must be a blockage somewhere after the filter or the relief valve on the pump isn't working properly.

In the last few years, I have known of a couple of Melling 77HV pumps that had the bypass stick, one closed and one open. I pull all new pumps apart for inspection and to make sure the piston moves freely.

 

[Moneypit]

Try a different brand filter... Some Wix do not have any by pass built in...Especially the racing numbers... And as said, the bypass in the lower pump housing, (cover) may be stuck due to being dropped in shipment.... I know I'll get hammered for this but try a FRAM filter.... I've used Fram for decades and never had an issue...
Ray

 

[Classic Daycruiser]

Have you tried a Ford?

 

[nuckingfuts]

Have you tried a Ford?

Why would he do that, I thought the whole point was to have something that runs when he's done.

 

[Classic Daycruiser]

Why would he do that, I thought the whole point was to have something that runs when he's done.

The point was to fix the leak. We all know Chevys leak all over the drive (its in the DNA), where as fords...you have to work at it.

 

[mjc]

Have you tried a Ford?

if they don't run they don't leak.

 

[Classic Daycruiser]

if they don't run they don't leak.

Tell that to a chevy guy.