87 Ford F250 feedback/ Yea or Nea Inmate Opinions Needed

[17 10 Flat]

Bumping thread guys.... had something interesting start happening recently. Theres been a noticeable tapping coming from engine area. Initially I was guessing lifters or small header manifold leak. Add to that I don't trust the oil dip stick at all. it cant be stock oem cause its really long and very thin taking a fair amount of pressure to get all the way down. Its been a full year ownership/ 3K miles driven and there was a small leak I've stopped by tightening valve covers. But the thing is the dip stick has shown overfilled entire year so frankly I dont trust its accuracy. The previous owner hasn't responded to my question concerning this. So today I was up in some hills doing slow up & downs on inclines/ declines and that tapping seemed to be more pronounced coming down a hill slowly like at 1500rpms. Going up hills seemed to stop. So I got to thinking I wonder if it simply needs oil. I've been keeping all my little errand drives around 1500 rpms until I get it sorted not wanting to stress engine. So today I learned 2 things about Fernando: His dipstick aint shit for accuracy and He needed 2-3 quarts of oil and then all the taping disappeared immediately. Brilliant! Nice to not have blown that 460 JaJaJa

Couldn't be more pleased with the truck! Its been exactly 1 year and no issues whatsoever [though only drove 3K miles]. I went back to start of the thread when I was asking folks opinions on the $7K price and if this is a good idea or not. Turned out to be perfect and bulletproof so far all around. I gotta say it is fun going back a year and reading everyones comments.

Cheers fellas.... I know. I know. What about the strippers right. Im giving that a break but did meet a local guy who doesn't seem to mind sharing his local chica friends Im a lucky man.

View attachment 1422387

Things taking a positive turn.....

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Lil update on the blow by PCV Vacuum hose.... I finally got to AutoZone and found the hose and put it on correctly as you guys recommended. This really was an easy fix for a guy like me with minimal skills under a hood.

Regarding the 2 nozzles that I needed to cap off they didn't have sizes needed for the small one by PCV output on the valve cover so I "sealed it off with some stuff I had that may work. Haven't opened Fernando up to learn if changes anything yet but will in a few days and report findings. The idle was unchanged so no adjustments at carb necessary it appears. I also "sealed" off that smaller carb input nozzle to right of where the PCV hose meets carb. Kinda hoping for less fumes in interior and from what I've read online this will reduce stress on engine and potentially stop or reduce any potential for engine oil leaks along the way. Interested to hear your opinions now that I finally got this off list.... Sorry about poor pic quality, I shoulda taken off air filter but so lazy today. Thanks guys!

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Lil update on the blow by PCV Vacuum hose.... I finally got to AutoZone and found the hose and put it on correctly as you guys recommended. This really was an easy fix for a guy like me with minimal skills under a hood. View attachment 1424565 View attachment 1424566 View attachment 1424567 View attachment 1424568 Regarding the 2 nozzles that I needed to cap off they didn't have sizes needed for the small one by PCV output on the valve cover so I "sealed it off with some stuff I had that may work. Haven't opened Fernando up to learn if changes anything yet but will in a few days and report findings. The idle was unchanged so no adjustments at carb necessary it appears. I also "sealed" off that smaller carb input nozzle to right of where the PCV hose meets carb. Kinda hoping for less fumes in interior and from what I've read online this will reduce stress on engine and potentially stop or reduce any potential for engine oil leaks along the way. Interested to hear your opinions now that I finally got this off list.... Sorry about poor pic quality, I shoulda taken off air filter but so lazy today. Thanks guys!

Crickets...I'll chime in again as not digging your glueing vacuum ports at the PVC and carb inlets...won't seal(if at all) for long. I looked over pics/vids....

1)Need to fully check for vacuum leaks. There are several places on that intake manifold that suck air-including on the rear we have not discussed-and cap them correctly. One even runs into cabin, under dash...Carb base gasket also could be leaking-see rusty bolts...several methods for checking this earlier in thread. Then and only then fuck with the carb settings.
2)Your still not using your Distributor Vacuum advance. Many benefits to drivability for this. It mabe bad inside Distributor therefore bypassed. Motor needs to be professionally timed and initial and total timing function tested and set.
3)Oil. Not trusting and just adding oil is no-bieno. I looked at a few of your videos and that yellow handle/long dipstick looks correct. Drain the oil, refill to correct spec/confirm level marks! Incorrect oil level, to much or to little will fuck up a motor.

If you're just cruising local...fuck it your fine(except for #3).
If you're going on LA runs, schedule a real mechanic appointment at a tune shop. I bet these would really wake that thing up.

Joel

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Crickets...I'll chime in again as not digging your glueing vacuum ports at the PVC and carb inlets...won't seal(if at all) for long. I looked over pics/vids....

1)Need to fully check for vacuum leaks. There are several places on that intake manifold that suck air-including on the rear we have not discussed-and cap them correctly. One even runs into cabin, under dash...Carb base gasket also could be leaking-see rusty bolts...several methods for checking this earlier in thread. Then and only then fuck with the carb settings.
2)Your still not using your Distributor Vacuum advance. Many benefits to drivability for this. It mabe bad inside Distributor therefore bypassed. Motor needs to be professionally timed and initial and total timing function tested and set.
3)Oil. Not trusting and just adding oil is no-bieno. I looked at a few of your videos and that yellow handle/long dipstick looks correct. Drain the oil, refill to correct spec/confirm level marks! Incorrect oil level, to much or to little will fuck up a motor.

If you're just cruising local...fuck it your fine(except for #3).
If you're going on LA runs, schedule a real mechanic appointment at a tune shop. I bet these would really wake that thing up.

Joel

Thanks Joel. Appreciate you staying on the thread helping me along. I'm enjoying tinkering and learning as I go so input like yours is bueno. Yeah I'm not surprised that glue idea didn't impress ya. I was disappointed AutoZone came out empty on small enough rubber caps. But that hole pushes air out not in so no damage right.

Interesting point about additional vacuum intake on rear of the intake manifold. Hmmmm.... I'l pull the air filter today and go have a close look around the back side and grab a vid to post for your feedback. Thanks.

Distributor vacuum advance... Hmmmm, I missed that item in earlier posts. I'll throw up the build sheet from when previous owner yanked engine and took to builder so you are up to speed on what was done. As for when that work was done I want to say 2-3 years ago. Strange that shop/ owner would leave these vacuum issues unfinished after going to all that trouble. I'm still in touch with previous owner for ongoing info.

Yup that dipstick though may look correctly placed is my largest concern. It really takes some jamming to get all the way down and it is reading so full way up above the plastic level markings. I bout oil/ filter at AutoZone and will be getting a neighbors help draining that oil with 3K on since changed by previous owner. At least then I'll know what 6qts shows like on stick and will mark that somehow. Ideas on that appreciated.... it'll show up on the metal stick. And remember that when I had the recent valve tapping due to lower oil levels [added 2-3 quarts] that funky dipstick still showed overfilled.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Thanks Joel. Appreciate you staying on the thread helping me along. I'm enjoying tinkering and learning as I go so input like yours is bueno. Yeah I'm not surprised that glue idea didn't impress ya. I was disappointed AutoZone came out empty on small enough rubber caps. But that hole pushes air out not in so no damage right.

Interesting point about additional vacuum intake on rear of the intake manifold. Hmmmm.... I'l pull the air filter today and go have a close look around the back side and grab a vid to post for your feedback. Thanks.

Distributor vacuum advance... Hmmmm, I missed that item in earlier posts. I'll throw up the build sheet from when previous owner yanked engine and took to builder so you are up to speed on what was done. As for when that work was done I want to say 2-3 years ago. Strange that shop/ owner would leave these vacuum issues unfinished after going to all that trouble. I'm still in touch with previous owner for ongoing info.

Yup that dipstick though may look correctly placed is my largest concern. It really takes some jamming to get all the way down and it is reading so full way up above the plastic level markings. I bout oil/ filter at AutoZone and will be getting a neighbors help draining that oil with 3K on since changed by previous owner. At least then I'll know what 6qts shows like on stick and will mark that somehow. Ideas on that appreciated.... it'll show up on the metal stick. And remember that when I had the recent valve tapping due to lower oil levels [added 2-3 quarts] that funky dipstick still showed overfilled.

View attachment 1424783 View attachment 1424784 View attachment 1424785

6 quarts with filter is correct with stock pan. When doing change inspect were the dipstick tube enters the block/pan that its connected securely.

That is not a non vac Pertonics Distributor as the document says, FYI.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

6 quarts with filter is correct with stock pan. When doing change inspect were the dipstick tube enters the block/pan that its connected securely.

That is not a non vac Pertonics Distributor as the document says, FYI.

Good tip on the input of dipstick to pan. I've read online that these are famous leak points. I'll be spraying that undercarriage area with degreaser when changing oil.My pan in garage is showing minimal leakage presently after tightening down valve cover screws.

Hmmmm.... so given the build shop misquoted info, what does this tell us regarding the Pertronics Distributor? So I have a vacuum oriented distributor thus I may want to hook a tube up to my distributor? As you can see my knowledge is very limited but I am picking things up as I hear back from guys like you and another more engine specific forum I frequent.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1601-everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-vacuum-advance-and-ignition-timing/

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

ca

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1601-everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-vacuum-advance-and-ignition-timing/

Damn that is one cool article! I actually comprehended about 95% of all that. So took some vids and sorry it was hard to hold phone with light.... so my question is where does that vacuum advance can hose connect on other end? In their article pic I see a tiny input on intake manifold.... perhaps I can find that on mine if I watch these vids closely. Great stuff and obviously curious why/ how previous owner neglected to connect this entire vacuum system and yet spent tons of time/$ enhancing this engine... but no worries... cant wait to see how these changes might effect anything noticeably. Fun stuff thanks!

Edit: Hmmmm... my two vids aren't loading for some reason. I'll take pics and post in am.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

@90 Laveycraft I couldn't wait so took a pic of what may be that distributor vacuum output and the Manifold intake if I have this right. Thoughts? Looks like an easy 3" hose and my kinda easy stuff to correct?

 

[rrrr]

Run a 3/16" hose to the right side (non-emissions engine) port on your carb.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Run a 3/16" hose to the right side (non-emissions engine) port on your carb.

View attachment 1424972

This!!

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Run a 3/16" hose to the right side (non-emissions engine) port on your carb.

View attachment 1424972

Step 2...getting it correctly tested/timed by a knowledgeable mechanic.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Run a 3/16" hose to the right side (non-emissions engine) port on your carb.

View attachment 1424972

Ahhh theres that great diagram carb pic again thanks. Appreciate it you two.... so easy and and hooking the distributor canister to this intake will remove the cracked rubber cap that I couldn't find replacement for. WinWin.... well, time to go to AutoZone. I want to spray degreaser under the entire oil pan area now that I have stopped leaks and next changing oil/ filter.

Any recommendations on degreasers? Its pretty nasty down there.... a neighbor says WD40 is a great degreaser but thats news to me. Since I'll be at AutoZone I figured i'll check with you guys for best product. Thanks always!

 

[rrrr]

Ahhh theres that great diagram carb pic again thanks. Appreciate it you two.... so easy and and hooking the distributor canister to this intake will remove the cracked rubber cap that I couldn't find replacement for. WinWin.... well, time to go to AutoZone. I want to spray degreaser under the entire oil pan area now that I have stopped leaks and next changing oil/ filter.

Any recommendations on degreasers? Its pretty nasty down there.... a neighbor says WD40 is a great degreaser but thats news to me. Since I'll be at AutoZone I figured i'll check with you guys for best product. Thanks always!

O'Reilly's house brand works as good as more expensive formulas like Gunk and it's less expensive. You should buy some cheap black nitrile gloves for the work and wear pants and an old long sleeve shirt, the stuff smells nasty and irritates the skin.

And of course wear some good wraparound safety glasses. Working under the truck while spraying degreaser and water creates blowback at odd angles.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

O'Reilly's house brand works as good as more expensive formulas like Gunk and it's less expensive. You should buy some cheap black nitrile gloves for the work and wear pants and an old long sleeve shirt, the stuff smells nasty and irritates the skin.

And of course wear some good wraparound safety glasses. Working under the truck while spraying degreaser and water creates blowback at odd angles.

Perfect. Check & thanks!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Oh my goodness fellas

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Oh my goodness fellas

View attachment 1425544 View attachment 1425544

That engine clean really worked!!! Added 200hp ! Lol

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

That engine clean really worked!!! Added 200hp ! Lol

You are too funny! should I add a stronger tranny?

 

[90 Laveycraft]

You got a vacuum less distributor now!!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

You got a vacuum less distributor now!!

Havent got to that yet but I did grab a lil vid at my bros place... we partying up in ere

Edit... seems like the vid of my new walkaround isnt loading... tried twice ... could be tequila

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

You got a vacuum less distributor now!!

JaJaJa.... and what does that mean exactly? I guess my real question is why does a distrbutor need a vacuum? Love the learning process Thank you for staying vested

 

[90 Laveycraft]

JaJaJa.... and what does that mean exactly? I guess my real question is why does a distrbutor need a vacuum? Love the learning process Thank you for staying vested

https://www.motortrend.com/features/timing-is-everything-982-1609-54-1/

 

[90 Laveycraft]

JaJaJa.... and what does that mean exactly? I guess my real question is why does a distrbutor need a vacuum? Love the learning process Thank you for staying vested

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

View attachment 1426709

Dang the Vacuum Advance Cannister eh.... now this timing stuff definitely will require a trained professional. I'll get into this next week with my Mexi old guy who roams neighborhood working on folks cars. Gotta determine his knowledge levels. He adjusted carb quite easily but I now have learned that was super simple. Quick question; Is it your position that its necessary to check timing after connecting these pcv and the distributor vacuum advances due to fact that reconnecting these will change some things effecting the engine and adjustments will be necessary?

I spotted this example online... yup, hose comes off cannister going back to carb input.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Jesus what a rabbit hole that Vacuum Advance Canister stuff can be! I spent alot of time watching these geeks vids on YouTube... OY. I'm tapping out on that thing. Seems like its related to increasing mpg. Meh

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Think of engine timing like your heartbeat. Its can be slow or fast and your not running 100%. When in right spot, your much more efficient. If you not hearing the engine pinging under load and your engine runs good under load its probably close.
Engines run best with different timing, idle..low RPM and high RPM - advance takes care of this. Fuel MPG is just a result of the engine running better. I don't believe you have ever said it runs bad or is a dog...if so your fine as is!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Think of engine timing like your heartbeat. Its can be slow or fast and your not running 100%. When in right spot, your much more efficient. If you not hearing the engine pinging under load and your engine runs good under load its probably close.
Engines run best with different timing, idle..low RPM and high RPM - advance takes care of this. Fuel MPG is just a result of the engine running better. I don't believe you have ever said it runs bad or is a dog...if so your fine as is!

Coolio... thanks for clarification on that subject. On my other forum specific to 460 engine builds there was a guy who listened to this new walk around vid saying be careful regarding my idle sounds he heard as relates to timing... trying to recall his comment but had something to do with spark, fuel and frying pistons if set wrong or rich etc... there is some low idle "clacking" going on in this cold start idle however as engine warms it idles stronger and that lower idle struggling disappears and warms up settling around 750 rpm.

I had to go up into US Tuesday which entailed sitting in 4 hours of bumper to bumper traffic at border and ole Fernando never missed a beat. He's rock solid and all gauges stayed in normal ranges... even the temp which I tend to watch more than anything due to my stupid Jaguar years. Lotta fun working that clutch for 4 hours creeping through traffic... leg/ foot still feeling it.

 

[TimeBandit]

It blows my mind that simply setting ignition timing is a lost art.

I'm not talking about you, the current vehicle owner, I just mean in general.

When I started out replacing points in a distributor and setting carburetor idle mixture was an everyday thing.

But that knowledge didn't happen overnight and I don't know how I would explain it over the phone even how to do it. Much less email.

I'm sure YouTube has some great videos on it but even then experience counts.

I used my timing light on the job exactly once in the last 10 years. I used it more at home. most of the young guys don't even own a timing light.

 

[mash on it]

It blows my mind that simply setting ignition timing is a lost art.

I'm not talking about you, the current vehicle owner, I just mean in general.

When I started out replacing points in a distributor and setting carburetor idle mixture was an everyday thing.

But that knowledge didn't happen overnight and I don't know how I would explain it over the phone even how to do it. Much less email.

I'm sure YouTube has some great videos on it but even then experience counts.

I used my timing light on the job exactly once in the last 10 years. I used it more at home. most of the young guys don't even own a timing light.

Likewise, the old Ford F two-fiddy with the 7.5 liter carbed motor in question, can easily be static timed, and be close enough for what it is. Say, 8 or 10° BTDC and let it eat.
A simple carb tuning after that and away ya go.

Dan'l

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

I'll be getting under hood this week with my older Mexi mechanic and we'll address the Engine Timing, vacuum hoses, Get that electric choke hooked up with positive/ negative wiring and oil/ filter change.... also will have him install a cable for the cruise control that previous owner didn't get around to. I think that'll about do ole Fernando for now. Thanks guys... I'll circle back after and tell ya if I notice anything changed in performance, etc...

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

All set now on hoses for vacuum advance and PCV.... as always comments welcomed.

 

[Willie B]

All set now on hoses for vacuum advance and PCV.... as always comments welcomed.
View attachment 1431944

… So do you notice any difference in the way it runs and in the performance???…

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

… So do you notice any difference in the way it runs and in the performance???…

I'll circle back on that .... not driving for a few days.

 

[rrrr]

Looks good!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Looks good!

Coolio.... my older mechanic aquaintance has been working on a neighbors car over the weekend so I've been chatting a bit and just heard he really helped that lady out and is knowledgible and not a shyster which we always have to consider especially down south. I told him the RDP brain trust recommended a timing adjustment now that both these vacuums are connected. He kinda grunted so I asked if he had a timing light... he said what for I can hear what that engine requires....He did mention he's got a light though.

 

[rrrr]

Coolio.... my older mechanic aquaintance has been working on a neighbors car over the weekend so I've been chatting a bit and just heard he really helped that lady out and is knowledgible and not a shyster which we always have to consider especially down south. I told him the RDP brain trust recommended a timing adjustment now that both these vacuums are connected. He kinda grunted so I asked if he had a timing light... he said what for I can hear what that engine requires....He did mention he's got a light though.

Yeah, no doubt he can get it close without a light, but it sounds like everything is going to be beautiful, man.

 

[ChumpChange]

I cleaned up my Ford over the weekend. Little bit older than yours though. 1965 352.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

View attachment 1432226 View attachment 1432227 I cleaned up my Ford over the weekend. Little bit older than yours though. 1965 352.

love looking at pics of engines... and lookylooky, I just figured out where my oil filter is! I've been kinda eyeballing areas to locate mine.... must be covered in past oil/ dirt residue cause I didn't see it and yours is easy to find. Cool

Can you share some exterior interior pics too... I dig learning about older models as well. Thanks

 

[rush1]

All set now on hoses for vacuum advance and PCV.... as always comments welcomed.
View attachment 1431944

Did you check to see if there's a stone fuel filter in the carburetor ? Take the inlet fitting off and see if its there you don't want to run that engine through two fuel filers way to much restriction.

 

[ChumpChange]

 

[ChumpChange]

All original. I’m the second owner. I even have the original oil air filter if I wanted to put it on. Keeping it all stock.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Did you check to see if there's a stone fuel filter in the carburetor ? Take the inlet fitting off and see if its there you don't want to run that engine through two fuel filers way to much restriction.

Hmmmm... you are using some part terms I will have to YouTube search .... if you have any details I'll dig around for what you are referring to and see. Thanks.... Im very green

When I read your post about restricting fuel flow I laughed cause this beast is averaging 5-10mpg and if the fuels being restricted now I'd hate to take any governors off!

 

[rush1]

Hmmmm... you are using some part terms I will have to YouTube search .... if you have any details I'll dig around for what you are referring to and see. Thanks.... Im very green

When I read your post about restricting fuel flow I laughed cause this beast is averaging 5-10mpg and if the fuels being restricted now I'd hate to take any governors off!

So all you have to do is take the fitting off of the carburetor where your fuel line is hooked up to make sure there isn't another fuel filter in there , the stock fuel pump doesn't have enough flow to pump fuel through two filters under a load.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

All original. I’m the second owner. I even have the original oil air filter if I wanted to put it on. Keeping it all stock.

Awesome.... and no oil spot under there I noticed.... nice tree too!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

So all you have to do is take the fitting off of the carburetor where your fuel line is hooked up to make sure there isn't another fuel filter in there , the stock fuel pump doesn't have enough flow to pump fuel through two filters under a load.

hmmmm.... I'll give that a look. Would a fuel filter be a screen that would be noticeable and easy to simply yank out with needle nosed pliers? You are the first to mention this subject. Not saying its not a potential block ... just asking. The performance of this engine seems relly strong and steady to me but if it was being restricted maybe I wouldn't even know

 

[rush1]

hmmmm.... I'll give that a look. Would a fuel filter be a screen that would be noticeable and easy to simply yank out with needle nosed pliers? You are the first to mention this subject. Not saying its not a potential block ... just asking. The performance of this engine seems relly strong and steady to me but if it was being restricted maybe I wouldn't even know

Yeah once you take that fitting off of the carb if it has one it will be right there with a spring behind it , remove both and put the fitting back on . some have them some don't.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

All original. I’m the second owner. I even have the original oil air filter if I wanted to put it on. Keeping it all stock.

love it

 

[rrrr]

hmmmm.... I'll give that a look. Would a fuel filter be a screen that would be noticeable and easy to simply yank out with needle nosed pliers? You are the first to mention this subject. Not saying its not a potential block ... just asking. The performance of this engine seems relly strong and steady to me but if it was being restricted maybe I wouldn't even know

Unless you have a set of flare nut wrenches (not likely) removing the fuel inlet fitting on the carb can turn out badly. Then there's the possibility you might cross thread the low pitch threads on the fitting when it's reinstalled.

I recommend drinking instead.

 

[90 Laveycraft]

Unless you have a set of flare nut wrenches (not likely) removing the fuel inlet fitting on the carb can turn out badly. Then there's the possibility you might cross thread the low pitch threads on the fitting when it's reinstalled.

I recommend drinking instead.

100 % Flare wrench

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Unless you have a set of flare nut wrenches (not likely) removing the fuel inlet fitting on the carb can turn out badly. Then there's the possibility you might cross thread the low pitch threads on the fitting when it's reinstalled.

I recommend drinking instead.

JaJaJa.... you win! Buddy in town so we will test Fernando on way to drink & lobster the day away. And yeah I aint touching that fuel filter stuff. you scared me away at flare nut wrench I'll let that potential issue be.... figure I've been very fortunate with ole Fernando thus far why push it. Thanks you guys.