800 hp 632 Blueprint Engine

[wsuwrhr]

Yessirs

Noted.

 

[obnoxious001]

I know some of the magzines have dyno tested some of their small block stuff at least. They made stated power, but always have to think in terms of the magazine getting a free test engine, and maybe not saying anything bad about them.

I know they are making blocks and heads, but when I called and asked them what they thought of using their BBC heads in a mild blown application, the "tech" had no real answer, instead saying they were more for street use. I scratched my head and went with a more trusted brand for that particular engine build.

 

[DaveH]

That's what a Dart block and good crank cost's alone. Really makes you wonder What parts they use.....

agreed. there is no way you can buy quality forged rotating assembly, block, cam and so forth for that kind of money using decent parts. let alone machine and assemble it.

 

[Powermizer]

i would like to know what forged parts they use, or any of the parts they use. i couldn't see that on the site. I have called places like this before, and they get out of telling what they use, by saying they have many resources, and they get what is available or the best price. I like building my own. At least i know what I have.

 

[jetskib]

 

[Racey]

Big difference between the loads on a car and

Might be fine making 10 seconds passes at the strip, not the same as running up the lake for 20 minutes under full load. Big difference between the duty cycle of a marine engine and a street engine.

 

[n2otoofast4u]

I have owned 2 of the BP 632's and currently own one. I have owned two because the first one EXPLODED! I own the second because they replaced it under warranty with absolutely ZERO issue. It was in a boat when it went boom, and it was bought as a marine engine. In my conversations with them they don't do anything internally different to them from car to boat. The differences are gaskets, freeze plugs, carb, and distributor.

Here is my story-

I get the motor, it is well crated, dyno sheet attached, very good communication, I was happy as hell. I NEVER registered it for warranty. 25-30 hours into its life I am ripping up river at north of 100MPH with my mom in the boat (turned out to be her last time in a boat before she passed away.... she got a good show) and it noses over a bit. I push the stick harder, it slows down. I scan gauges, all look well. Push stick again, still slows down. Start to pull the stick back and BOOOOOOOOM!!!! Smoke, chaos, etc.... FOCK!!!! I have had the motor for 6 months at this point, NEVER sent the warranty card in, I figure I'm focked so I pull it apart out of curiosity. Only thing savable is the intake and distributor. 2 empty holes, 2 more broke, block hammered, cam gone, I MEAN A COMPLETE LOSS...... I did good..... I put another motor in the boat and toss the pile of parts in a crate and walk away for about 4 months. I never call BP, I never sent the warranty paperwork in, I just took it on the chin and moved on with my summer.

Winter rolls around and I am having to move the fkn crate of scrap around every once in awhile and I decide ah hell, Ill send them some pics and see what they say. Worst case is I pay to ship this mess, they tell me to pound rags, and Im out a bit of money. Oh well. Best case, they hook me up with another motor at a reduced rate and maybe I can recoup something out of the deal. I send pics with my story and my contact..... 30 MINUTES later they call.... "box it up, get it to the shipping company, we'll pay for the shipping"....... I was ASTONISHED!!!

2 months go by and I don't hear anything, I am super busy, its not a priority, I figure I'm focked. Oh well..... Another couple weeks go by and I actually think about it when I have a free minute so I call them and reference the return number they gave me. Here is what I am told "We are glad you called Mr. Green, your NEW motor came off the dyno last week, we are crating it today or tomorrow and it will ship out"....... I am stunned, there had to be a catch, there was no way this ever happens so easy! I ask how much... "ZERO"..... Do I need to pay return shipping? ....."NOPE".... What do you need from me? "Just to confirm you want this one to ship to the same place"...... UN FKN REAL!! 2 weeks later, I have a brand new (they didn't even reuse the good parts) 632 sitting in my garage!! They didn't say what happened to it, I didn't ask, I have my thoughts, and I don't think it was a failure on their end, but who really knows.

Here is my take

* They don't dyno at 800. First one made 775, this latest one makes 658.
* They are using lots of their own parts (heads, blocks, manifolds, etc) so they aren't paying near what it cost someone else
* I would and will absolutely buy from them again!
* Id run it in a boat again without worry, but Id be sure the setup is a bit different than last time

 

[wsuwrhr]

Big difference between the loads on a car and


Might be fine making 10 seconds passes at the strip, not the same as running up the lake for 20 minutes under full load. Big difference between the duty cycle of a marine engine and a street engine.

OP is asking about an engine in a Chevelle, I don't think he plans on taking it to any launch ramps.

 

[ToMorrow44]

View attachment 605292

Holy sh!t that thing is beautiful!!

 

[RusNab]

OP is asking about an engine in a Chevelle, I don't think he plans on taking it to any launch ramps.

After all the talk about making this motor work in the water I have learned a lot, which is great. It seems to me a 632 in a chevelle is PLENTY and I'm not racing the thing just weekend running, sometimes hardish but really just for fun. This will probably be fun enough. Now the real problem is rust in the trunk pan. A new can of worms has been opened.

 

[wsuwrhr]

After all the talk about making this motor work in the water I have learned a lot, which is great. It seems to me a 632 in a chevelle is PLENTY and I'm not racing the thing just weekend running, sometimes hardish but really just for fun. This will probably be fun enough. Now the real problem is rust in the trunk pan. A new can of worms has been opened.

The SS454 was making 600hp, which by today's standards is low, it was a total beast. I loved taking hits in that car and I never turned down a chance to get in.

The stroke increase from a 500 ci motor to a 600 ci will be a substantial improvement.

 

[Cray Paper]

After all the talk about making this motor work in the water I have learned a lot, which is great. It seems to me a 632 in a chevelle is PLENTY and I'm not racing the thing just weekend running, sometimes hardish but really just for fun. This will probably be fun enough. Now the real problem is rust in the trunk pan. A new can of worms has been opened.

That is not a "problem", it's an opportunity! Opportunity to mini tub!

 

[P28]

I am wanting to get a marine BP 632...how's yours holding up since this post. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

I have owned 2 of the BP 632's and currently own one. I have owned two because the first one EXPLODED! I own the second because they replaced it under warranty with absolutely ZERO issue. It was in a boat when it went boom, and it was bought as a marine engine. In my conversations with them they don't do anything internally different to them from car to boat. The differences are gaskets, freeze plugs, carb, and distributor.

Here is my story-

I get the motor, it is well crated, dyno sheet attached, very good communication, I was happy as hell. I NEVER registered it for warranty. 25-30 hours into its life I am ripping up river at north of 100MPH with my mom in the boat (turned out to be her last time in a boat before she passed away.... she got a good show) and it noses over a bit. I push the stick harder, it slows down. I scan gauges, all look well. Push stick again, still slows down. Start to pull the stick back and BOOOOOOOOM!!!! Smoke, chaos, etc.... FOCK!!!! I have had the motor for 6 months at this point, NEVER sent the warranty card in, I figure I'm focked so I pull it apart out of curiosity. Only thing savable is the intake and distributor. 2 empty holes, 2 more broke, block hammered, cam gone, I MEAN A COMPLETE LOSS...... I did good..... I put another motor in the boat and toss the pile of parts in a crate and walk away for about 4 months. I never call BP, I never sent the warranty paperwork in, I just took it on the chin and moved on with my summer.

Winter rolls around and I am having to move the fkn crate of scrap around every once in awhile and I decide ah hell, Ill send them some pics and see what they say. Worst case is I pay to ship this mess, they tell me to pound rags, and Im out a bit of money. Oh well. Best case, they hook me up with another motor at a reduced rate and maybe I can recoup something out of the deal. I send pics with my story and my contact..... 30 MINUTES later they call.... "box it up, get it to the shipping company, we'll pay for the shipping"....... I was ASTONISHED!!!

2 months go by and I don't hear anything, I am super busy, its not a priority, I figure I'm focked. Oh well..... Another couple weeks go by and I actually think about it when I have a free minute so I call them and reference the return number they gave me. Here is what I am told "We are glad you called Mr. Green, your NEW motor came off the dyno last week, we are crating it today or tomorrow and it will ship out"....... I am stunned, there had to be a catch, there was no way this ever happens so easy! I ask how much... "ZERO"..... Do I need to pay return shipping? ....."NOPE".... What do you need from me? "Just to confirm you want this one to ship to the same place"...... UN FKN REAL!! 2 weeks later, I have a brand new (they didn't even reuse the good parts) 632 sitting in my garage!! They didn't say what happened to it, I didn't ask, I have my thoughts, and I don't think it was a failure on their end, but who really knows.

Here is my take

* They don't dyno at 800. First one made 775, this latest one makes 658.
* They are using lots of their own parts (heads, blocks, manifolds, etc) so they aren't paying near what it cost someone else
* I would and will absolutely buy from them again!
* Id run it in a boat again without worry, but Id be sure the setup is a bit different than last time

 

[Boat 405]

800 NA out of a BBC is no big deal. My last 540 made 787hp and my current 582 EFI made 852hp. Pump gas, solid roller, single plane manifold.

 

[was thatguy]

Funny I was literally just on Summit Racing pricing Dart blocks and scat cranks for a 540 combo.

Does that Big inch motor just use a normal tall deck?

 

[poncho]

That's what a Dart block and good crank cost's alone. Really makes you wonder What parts they use.....

If my block wasn't as good as it was I was going Big M and Callies, exactly what I thought.

 

[Husqy510]

A buddy of mine installed one in his boat and it had a couple issues, which ultimately led to him having the engine pulled so Blueprint could rebuild it. I'll reach out to him to see what happened. I can tell you that it had issue from day one.

 

[P28]

Funny I was literally just on Summit Racing pricing Dart blocks and scat cranks for a 540 combo.

Does that Big inch motor just use a normal tall deck?

off the BluePrint website on the 632 Marine.....



DESCRIPTION

HP & Torque: 775 HP / 800 FT LBS
Compression Ratio: 10.0:1
Aluminum Heads
Hydraulic Roller Cam
Forged Crank
Forged Pistons

BLOCK:

• NEW BluePrint Cast Iron Block
  Manufactured and Machined in the USA!
  4-Bolt Main
  4.500"
  1-Piece Rear Main Seal
  Mech fuel pump provision: Yes
  Tall Deck

ROTATING ASSEMBLY:

• New BluePrint Forged Crankshaft
  4.750" Stroke
  Forged H-beam 6.635" connecting rods
  Forged Pistons
  Internal

CYLINDER HEADS:

• BluePrint Aluminum Cylinder Heads -PS8012
  119cc chamber
  2.30" intake/1.88" exhaust valves
  358cc intake/125cc exhaust runners

CAM SPECS:

• Cam Type: Roller
  .647 Intake .647 Exhaust
  258 Intake / 266 Exhaust duration
  @ .050 - 112 degree lobe separation

ALSO INCLUDES:

• 1050cfm Marine carb
  Edelbrock aluminum intake manifold
  MSD Pro Billet distributor
  Valve covers, oil pan and timing cover
  Spark plugs
  MSD spark plug wires
  Harmonic balancer
  Dyno test results shipped with engine

WARRANTY:

• 12 month unlimited hour on pleasurecraft only. No warranty for commercial use.

NOTES:
For boats being used in salt water, BluePrint Engines recommends a closed cooling system be used as the aluminum cylinder heads and intake manifolds do not have brass lined water passages.

• Replaces Standard Rotation engines only. Not available as reverse rotation.

 

[P28]

A buddy of mine installed one in his boat and it had a couple issues, which ultimately led to him having the engine pulled so Blueprint could rebuild it. I'll reach out to him to see what happened. I can tell you that it had issue from day one.

I would appreciate that.....thank you!

 

[wsuwrhr]

IF you want a big stroke and a livable rod ratio, you do.

Funny I was literally just on Summit Racing pricing Dart blocks and scat cranks for a 540 combo.

Does that Big inch motor just use a normal tall deck?

 

[wsuwrhr]

4.5 bore, 4.75 stroke....gezzzzzusssss....

Guess I never gave much thought to how much stroke it needed to get up to the ci with that bore size.

 

[wsuwrhr]

Rod ratio of 1.4 is not real conducive to keepin the bore round or the pistons happy.

Im my opinion anyway, others may disagree.

But I get it, cant go much over 4.5 bore with the BB Chevy bore spacing.

Brian

Funny I was literally just on Summit Racing pricing Dart blocks and scat cranks for a 540 combo.

Does that Big inch motor just use a normal tall deck?

 

[BDMar]

Rod ratio of 1.4 is not real conducive to keepin the bore round or the pistons happy.

Im my opinion anyway, others may disagree.

But I get it, cant go much over 4.5 bore with the BB Chevy bore spacing.

Brian

632 CI is 4.750 stroke and 4.600 Bore.

4.600 bore is very common with aftermarket blocks

1.534 is stock 454 rod ratio.

 

[wsuwrhr]

Just going off the specs of that engine listed BD. I only quickly calced the rod ratio.

I know there is bigger spacing on the aftermarket stuff

632 CI is 4.750 stroke and 4.600 Bore.

4.600 bore is very common with aftermarket blocks

1.534 is stock 454 rod ratio.

 

[wsuwrhr]

off the BluePrint website on the 632 Marine.....



BLOCK:

• NEW BluePrint Cast Iron Block
  Manufactured and Machined in the USA!
  4-Bolt Main
  4.500"
  1-Piece Rear Main Seal
  Mech fuel pump provision: Yes
  Tall Deck

ROTATING ASSEMBLY:

• New BluePrint Forged Crankshaft
  4.750" Stroke
  Forged H-beam 6.635" connecting rods
  Forged Pistons
  Internal

632 CI is 4.750 stroke and 4.600 Bore.

4.600 bore is very common with aftermarket blocks

1.534 is stock 454 rod ratio.

 

[Cdog]

I have to admit I've been looking at these BP 632's as well. Lotta bang for the buck. Nobody at that price range is making that power and offering a warranty to boot.

Hell! Stroking a 454 to a 496 with heads, rotating assembly and dyno time puts you at about what you can buy a BP 632 for.

 

[P28]

I have to admit I've been looking at these BP 632's as well. Lotta bang for the buck. Nobody at that price range is making that power and offering a warranty to boot.

Hell! Stroking a 454 to a 496 with heads, rotating assembly and dyno time puts you at about what you can buy a BP 632 for.

my thoughts exactly!

 

[Cdog]

my thoughts exactly!

Plus I get to keep my 454 on the stand in the garage as a conversation piece. LOL!

 

[P28]

Plus I get to keep my 454 on the stand in the garage as a conversation piece. LOL!

Lol!

 

[rrrr]

They are not fitted with new pistons or have the bearing clearances changes. All the modern engine are made to run thin oil. The marine versions call for 5W30, just like their street counterparts.

Page 17 of the Kodiak Marine 6.2 LSA manual
http://www.kemequipment.com/manuals/pdf/kodiak-supercharged-62LSA-manual.pdf

Just out of curiosity, I found a dealer that posts a price for the 6.2 supercharged LS Kodiak Marine engine. It's $24,800. The peak HP and torque ratings are 540 HP and 540 lb/ft torque.

Scanning the operations manual, the 400 and 800 hour engine inspections are pretty much clean the exterior and flame arrestor, look for loose connections and fasteners, and replace the serpentine belt.

The dollar per HP price seems OK to me, and it appears the engine is pretty much bulletproof. I like the separate closed cooling loop and electric pump for the supercharger.

Is anyone out there running a supercharged 6.2 LS? Is it a better choice than a 540 Merc? It costs about $7K less than the 540 (engine only).

 

[wsuwrhr]

Dollar for dollar it does seem reasonable....

Ill prolly get roasted here, but the 6.2 wont make the peak torque a 540 will.

Is that worth the 7K cost difference you mentioned? You would have to decide.

Brian

Is it a better choice than a 540 Merc? It costs about $7K less than the 540 (engine only).

 

[rrrr]

Dollar for dollar it does seem reasonable....

Ill prolly get roasted here, but the 6.2 wont make the peak torque a 540 will.

Is that worth the 7K cost difference you mentioned? You would have to decide.

Brian

I couldn't find the peak torque @ RPM numbers for the Merc. It's is 147 CI larger, I imagine it throws at least 570 lb/ft torque.

 

[Husqy510]

I would appreciate that.....thank you!

Initially a lifter failed, and rocker arm fell off. Then a dead cylinder. All within the 1st few hours of use. Blueprint warrantied everything, but he had to pull the motor. He hasn't reinstalled it yet.

My biggest concern would be the piston/cylinder clearance. As I understand it they don't set up the marine motors any different than the car motors.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Just out of curiosity, I found a dealer that posts a price for the 6.2 supercharged LS Kodiak Marine engine. It's $24,800. The peak HP and torque ratings are 540 HP and 540 lb/ft torque.

Scanning the operations manual, the 400 and 800 hour engine inspections are pretty much clean the exterior and flame arrestor, look for loose connections and fasteners, and replace the serpentine belt.

The dollar per HP price seems OK to me, and it appears the engine is pretty much bulletproof. I like the separate closed cooling loop and electric pump for the supercharger.

Is anyone out there running a supercharged 6.2 LS? Is it a better choice than a 540 Merc? It costs about $7K less than the 540 (engine only).

Tahiti @Goodtime$ has experience with the LSA in front of a Bravo. From the way it sounds, I’d do it in a second. It’s gotta be around 300 lbs lighter than a Merc 600, and probably 200 lighter than a 540. I’m not sure of what nuances there are with install though.

 

[Husqy510]

I'm also curious about cam specs, specifically duration. I'm sure they didn't set it up with wet exhaust in mind.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Dollar for dollar it does seem reasonable....

Ill prolly get roasted here, but the 6.2 wont make the peak torque a 540 will.

Is that worth the 7K cost difference you mentioned? You would have to decide.

Brian

It would be right in the ballparkish with the NA 540 since it is supercharged. In a car those LSAs make 500+ ft lbs of torque from 2000-redline. And it will run another 1000 RPM higher..

That and it is stupidly lighter in the back of the boat.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I'm also curious about cam specs, specifically duration. I'm sure they didn't set it up with wet exhaust in mind.

Actually they do.... indirectly. These are smog friendly cams, they have very little overlap to pass emissions in a car. They just pluck these engines off an assembly line. a “marine” LSA making 540 HP is a stock LSA. They make 580 in the “crate” version I’m sure they back the timing off a bit for a boat, and cut a few HP.

 

[P28]

Initially a lifter failed, and rocker arm fell off. Then a dead cylinder. All within the 1st few hours of use. Blueprint warrantied everything, but he had to pull the motor. He hasn't reinstalled it yet.

My biggest concern would be the piston/cylinder clearance. As I understand it they don't set up the marine motors any different than the car motors.

Thanks for the quick response. I guess the good thing is their warranty which is my main concern. As long as they make it right it seems like a good deal.

 

[Husqy510]

Actually they do.... indirectly. These are smog friendly cams, they have very little overlap to pass emissions in a car. They just pluck these engines off an assembly line. a “marine” LSA making 540 HP is a stock LSA. They make 580 in the “crate” version I’m sure they back the timing off a bit for a boat, and cut a few HP.

Thanks for the quick response. I guess the good thing is their warranty which is my main concern. As long as they make it right it seems like a good deal.

Might get old pulling the motor. I'd love to hear from someone that has some trouble free hours in a boat before I pulled the trigger.

We just built a NA aspirated 540 that made 725hp at 5600rpm and 725tq at 4600. Nothing fancy and a pretty small cam.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Might get old pulling the motor. I'd love to hear from someone that has some trouble free hours in a boat before I pulled the trigger.

We just built a NA aspirated 540 that made 725hp at 5600rpm and 725tq at 4600. Nothing fancy and a pretty small cam.

Sounds solid.. and easy. The nice thing about the big cube big blocks is that you can make good power with relative ease.

 

[P28]

Might get old pulling the motor. I'd love to hear from someone that has some trouble free hours in a boat before I pulled the trigger.

We just built a NA aspirated 540 that made 725hp at 5600rpm and 725tq at 4600. Nothing fancy and a pretty small cam.

Yes, I would also like to hear from someone who’s had one for a while with no issues. I’ve ran a ton of google searches for bad reviews but haven’t come across any. Their Facebook page is filled with 99% good reviews. What seems to save them is that they warrant their engines.

 

[P28]

Plus I get to keep my 454 on the stand in the garage as a conversation piece. LOL!

I have two matching 502 MAG MPI’s and thought of getting one turned into a 540 as I converted from a twin engine application to a single. But the cost of doing so warrants just getting a new engine altogether like the BP 632.

 

[brgrcru]

How is it all these car motors worked ? Way back like 30/40/50 years ago , putting a car motor 454 Chevy or 460 ford in a jet or flat was no big deal . Probably around 600/ 650 hp.
Skiing all day and River racing at dusk.
He'll dual carbs and a shot of nitrous worked on those motors also .
I don't think my dad , ever did anything , but change oil and plugs . We're talking early 70's to mid 80's

Now pushing all the big boats you guys have around , I have no idea .

But those car motors worked great for years . In our little boats

 

[Cdog]

Control reversion with the right cam, roller cam, stud girdle on the valve train & keep your oil cool and I think your good to go.

If I were to do one of these BP 632’s I’d probably do a tear down after two seasons and make sure all is well. Add my Efi intake. You already have all the parts you need.

I’d have to beef up my drive and add hydraulic steering before I could even mess with it.

 

[n2otoofast4u]

I am wanting to get a marine BP 632...how's yours holding up since this post. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

The replacement is still in the crate, in the garage, never been fired since it's been in my possession. Every time I buy something to use it in, I end up selling it before the project gets going. I'm holding out hope to find something to put it in, but that hope is fading. I'd certainly sell the motor at this point. It's still in the crate with the dyno sheet attached. Its definitely short of their advertised number, but I'd bet this one lasts a long time!

 

[P28]

Control reversion with the right cam, roller cam, stud girdle on the valve train & keep your oil cool and I think your good to go.

If I were to do one of these BP 632’s I’d probably do a tear down after two seasons and make sure all is well. Add my Efi intake. You already have all the parts you need.

I’d have to beef up my drive and add hydraulic steering before I could even mess with it.

If I get one I'm most probably going from wet to dry exhaust to avoid reversion altogether. Also upgrade to a bigger oil pan as well to keep the oil cooler. EFI intake is also a consideration. Agree with you in regards to a tear down after a couple of seasons. I'll be cruising most of the time but nice to know you have some ponies backing you up.

 

[P28]

The replacement is still in the crate, in the garage, never been fired since it's been in my possession. Every time I buy something to use it in, I end up selling it before the project gets going. I'm holding out hope to find something to put it in, but that hope is fading. I'd certainly sell the motor at this point. It's still in the crate with the dyno sheet attached. Its definitely short of their advertised number, but I'd bet this one lasts a long time!

Check your inbox.

 

[wsuwrhr]

Sweet!!! Step up.

It would be right in the ballparkish with the NA 540 since it is supercharged. In a car those LSAs make 500+ ft lbs of torque from 2000-redline. And it will run another 1000 RPM higher..

That and it is stupidly lighter in the back of the boat.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

How is it all these car motors worked ? Way back like 30/40/50 years ago , putting a car motor 454 Chevy or 460 ford in a jet or flat was no big deal . Probably around 600/ 650 hp.
Skiing all day and River racing at dusk.
He'll dual carbs and a shot of nitrous worked on those motors also .
I don't think my dad , ever did anything , but change oil and plugs . We're talking early 70's to mid 80's

Now pushing all the big boats you guys have around , I have no idea .

But those car motors worked great for years . In our little boats

To oversimplify the conversation... tighter tolerances in newer engines. New stuff is made to have a specific kind of oil (light viscosity) at a specific temp (over 180 degrees) and made to run at a specific water temp as well.

If you go put 20w50 in most modern engines and run the oil and coolant at 150 degrees at full load like you do in a boat, you are gonna have problems fast.

 

[wsuwrhr]

I believe you mean Tighter clearances, not tolerances.

Brian

To oversimplify the conversation... tighter tolerances in newer engines. New stuff is made to have a specific kind of oil (light viscosity) at a specific temp (over 180 degrees) and made to run at a specific water temp as well.

If you go put 20w50 in most modern engines and run the oil and coolant at 150 degrees at full load like you do in a boat, you are gonna have problems fast.