Big B Hova
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I'm disappointed in this outcome. I wanted to see the diagnostics Dave!
Why is checking individual battery voltage cause for assuming he pulled the cables ?
You can still test from the pos to neg terminals on each battery , or several, without lifting a single cable.
So you pulled all the cables? Why not just try to restore the batts you have if you have gone that far?
Why is checking individual battery voltage cause for assuming he pulled the cables ?
You can still test from the pos to neg terminals on each battery , or several, without lifting a single cable.
The volt meter didn’t even register on all but 2 batteries. The two it did one read 2 volts and the other read 4
You measuring current or voltage ? You can certainly read individual battery voltage regardless of how they are connected so long as you can access each of the batteries terminals. In parallel, voltage is constant, meaning a dozen 12V batteries in parallel will still read 12V, but the current amp hours is additive.So you are telling me you can test each battery individually without pulling cables? Hmm..
Weather wired in series or parallel you will not get a correct reading with the cables on. You are getting current from the battery its connected to.
You know alot more about "electrical" then I do. I am just speaking from experience. I have done my fair share of batteries in parallel and in series and this is my experience. Pull the cables and isolate the battery and you will get a different reading then with the cables hooked up. JMO
That's how you do it sir.This is what I did
Makes you wonder how the digital dash meter got 5v?The volt meter didn’t even register on all but 2 batteries. The two it did one read 2 volts and the other read 4
Did you check voltage on the charger, If it's not hooked to a real battery it won't put out 12vIn case you were wondering… I hooked up a 12v battery on a charger to the 12v side of the step down transformer and only got 12.8v on the 48v side of the transformer, so that doesn’t work…. Never mind! Lol
Yep… fully charged 12.8v battery plus a 4.5 amp charge.Did you check voltage on the charger, If it's not hooked to a real battery it won't put out 12v
I'm disappointed in this outcome. I wanted to see the diagnostics Dave!
I got a cheap Napa one with the guage, but it works. I was able to tell which of my batteries had a peoplemI told him where to start, but I haven't heard anything!
The easy diagnosis would be to take to a shop that has a Midtronics tester.
Dead or fully charged, a Midtronics will tell you if the battery is good, or not.
Every Interstate Battery store has one.
I got a cheap Napa one with the guage, but it works. I was able to tell which of my batteries had a peoplem
I was talking about this bad boy
It's probably a solid state unit then not a true transformer. So that makes sense. You won't be able to backfeed it.Yep… fully charged 12.8v battery plus a 4.5 amp charge.
I had to put my individual batteries on a normal battery charge for a while to get them with enough charge for the cart charger to take over.
You could read the post I made above.How do you do that when they are eight volt batteries?
How do you do that when they are eight volt batteries?
Put the black wire on the negative post, red wire on the positive post, turn the charger on 2amp chargeHow do you do that when they are eight volt batteries?
If you connect an individual battery to a 12 volt charger, its 14.4 volts will put a 3.6 volts per cell charge on the 8 volt battery. That's not excessive if it's run for two 15 minute sessions with a break in between to prevent over temperature. You just need to monitor the battery's temperature and make sure the electrolyte isn't offgassing excessive hydrogen. Do this outdoors, so there's less danger of hydrogen accumulation.
That much charge current will actually be beneficial, because it will act on the lead sulfate collected on the plates during the discharge and help restore the electrolyte chemical balance.
That should bring the battery's open circuit voltage up to the point that when they're all charged together with the 48 volt charger it will activate.
I installed and operated a few flooded electrolyte lead acid batteries back in the day, so I'm not just making this up.
Get a manual 12/24V charger, a hydrometer, and a load tester. Check water levels and fill with distilled as needed. Don't overfill.How do you do that when they are eight volt batteries?
Thank you I will try this.. you think they might come back even though they are zero volts?
if you want to really confuse people… on a 48v lithium battery… 58v is fully charged and 46-48v is practically dead. All the capacity is around 52v.
I was talking about this bad boy View attachment 1429441
It's likely. In the end a lead acid battery relies on a chemical reaction created by the properties of the electrolyte and plates. Introducing electrical current into that equation restores the proper balance, but sometimes the damage done by a deep discharge is fatal.Thank you I will try this.. you think they might come back even though they are zero volts?
I've had it reveal that the decent appearing voltage reading following a good charging, might power a led bulb, but under the stress of a load tester fails miserably.Load testers only work on fully charged batteries. They won't tell you much about a dead battery!
I've had it reveal that the decent appearing voltage reading following a good charging, might power a led bulb, but under the stress of a load tester fails miserably.
Those cheap 100 amp load bank testers provide good information if you know what to look for. The analog meter version is OK, one with a digital readout is better. Over a 30-45 second test, a fully charged and healthy 12 volt battery will begin at 12.7 or 12.8 volts, and under load will drop to 10.5-11 volts immediately.And that's exactly what they are for.
Carbon pile tester?Those cheap 100 amp load bank testers provide good information if you know what to look for. The analog meter version is OK, one with a digital readout is better. Over a 30-45 second test, a fully charged and healthy 12 volt battery will begin at 12.7 or 12.8 volts, and under load will drop to 10.5-11 volts immediately.
Then the voltage will recover slowly over the next 10-20 seconds to 12.2-12.4 and stay there. Running the tester for more than 45 seconds to a minute isn't necessary, it has given all the information that simple device provides. But it shows the battery is healthy and has a good discharge profile.
I don't care for the rollaround type load testers. They can put a max load--800 amps or more--on a battery, and if used improperly, can drastically shorten its life. Case in point, two different batteries in my wife's Acura TL failed about a month after the service apes at the dealer performed a load test on them. I suspected the tech didn't know what he was doing.
Those cheap 100 amp load bank testers provide good information if you know what to look for. The analog meter version is OK, one with a digital readout is better. Over a 30-45 second test, a fully charged and healthy 12 volt battery will begin at 12.7 or 12.8 volts, and under load will drop to 10.5-11 volts immediately.
Then the voltage will recover slowly over the next 10-20 seconds to 12.2-12.4 and stay there. Running the tester for more than 45 seconds to a minute isn't necessary, it has given all the information that simple device provides. But it shows the battery is healthy and has a good discharge profile.
I don't care for the rollaround type load testers. They can put a max load--800 amps or more--on a battery, and if used improperly, can drastically shorten its life. Case in point, two different batteries in my wife's Acura TL failed about a month after the service apes at the dealer performed a load test on them. I suspected the tech didn't know what he was doing.
This is what the Acura dealer used. The car was a 2008 TL. After her second battery shit the bed, I went to the dealer and asked some questions. I'm confident user error was involved.That musta been a long time ago??
Every dealership worked at REQUIRED a Midtronics printout for every battery replacement.
I haven't worked in a dealership for over 15 years now?
I can't imagine Any dealership that would even have a load tester today.
Way too dangerous.
This is what the Acura dealer used. The car was a 2008 TL. After her second battery shit the bed, I went to the dealer and asked some questions. I'm confident user error was involved.
They didn't replace the batteries, they failed sometime later. There wasn't anything wrong with the charging system, both batteries were 18-30 months old IIRC. Both had intercell connector failures, a good indication they were improperly loaded.