25' Daytona ICC

[JFMFG]

So Nail it is correct as far as it not being the oil cooler, if it were then I would be low on oil as a result of it mixing and blowing out of the exhaust. The headers we re pressure tested, checked good, they pulled the blower and the intercooler, all good there. Have the heads off now which is looking like that is going to be what is causing the milky oil (hopefully, fingers crossed). a few more checks and tests to be done first on the block, not exactly sure what, but if those check good, then the heads will be off to get tested. At this point I'm just hoping that it is the heads and not a cracked block. If it is the heads, depending on how bad, I'll have a decision to make as far as repairing them or replacing them. They are currently Darts, but If replacing, after talking with Aaron, and Bob at Teague, I think I will probably go with the AFR's. I feel like I'm leaning more towards just replacing them rather than repairing, just for peace of mind knowing it as all new. But I'll leave that up to the expert opinion.

If it’s heads I’d go with Teague recommendation

 

[ChrisV]

Replace.

 

[Rkc]

Replace is my gut feeling, I'm already this far into it, may as well put in new. I'm tired of looking at that damn ass of the Boat US boat lol. But we'll see what they say once the heads get over to Teague.

 

[OC Daytona]

So Nail it is correct as far as it not being the oil cooler, if it were then I would be low on oil as a result of it mixing and blowing out of the exhaust. The headers we re pressure tested, checked good, they pulled the blower and the intercooler, all good there. Have the heads off now which is looking like that is going to be what is causing the milky oil (hopefully, fingers crossed). a few more checks and tests to be done first on the block, not exactly sure what, but if those check good, then the heads will be off to get tested. At this point I'm just hoping that it is the heads and not a cracked block. If it is the heads, depending on how bad, I'll have a decision to make as far as repairing them or replacing them. They are currently Darts, but If replacing, after talking with Aaron, and Bob at Teague, I think I will probably go with the AFR's. I feel like I'm leaning more towards just replacing them rather than repairing, just for peace of mind knowing it as all new. But I'll leave that up to the expert opinion.

Yes, I have Dart heads as well and would definitely replace them with AFR's when I need to. You have a blower right, so prob the 355's!

Good luck with the rest of your project

 

[Boat 405]

I have had many heads fixed. Like stuff you just look at and go oh my god.... When you drop a valve at 9200 rpm and gernade a piston it leaves quite a mark. Lots of heads can be fixed. Remember lots of stuff add up when you swap heads, pushrods, rocker arms, springs. All kinds of additional costs over fixing stuff. But also it depends on the overall condition of the heads. Corrosion can play a big factor on if it is worth it to repair or replace.

 

[JFMFG]

@Rkc how many hours did you put on it before your first issue?

 

[Rkc]

Yes, I have Dart heads as well and would definitely replace them with AFR's when I need to. You have a blower right, so prob the 355's!

Good luck with the rest of your project

yes, 8-71 blowershop on it

 

[ChrisV]

Post pics.

 

[Rkc]

I have had many heads fixed. Like stuff you just look at and go oh my god.... When you drop a valve at 9200 rpm and gernade a piston it leaves quite a mark. Lots of heads can be fixed. Remember lots of stuff add up when you swap heads, pushrods, rocker arms, springs. All kinds of additional costs over fixing stuff. But also it depends on the overall condition of the heads. Corrosion can play a big factor on if it is worth it to repair or replace.

completely agree. I just know that if something happens later on and they were repaired, I would kick myself for not going new. As much as it's gonna suck on the wallet if I have to get new springs, rockers etc, at least I know I did everything I could.

 

[Rkc]

@Rkc how many hours did you put on it before your first issue?

just over 10 hrs I think

 

[JFMFG]

completely agree. I just know that if something happens later on and they were repaired, I would kick myself for not going new. As much as it's gonna suck on the wallet if I have to get new springs, rockers etc, at least I know I did everything I could.

Good news is you’ll have all the work done in the offseason and can be ready to rip next season.

 

[Rkc]

Post pics.

if I were doing the teardown myself I would

 

[JFMFG]

just over 10 hrs I think

So the seller prob didn’t know he was effing you over then.

 

[Mr. C]

So the seller prob didn’t know he was effing you over then.

From my interactions with the seller and just conversation with RKC. I don’t think so. It’s just a shit happens. Timing thing.

One good thing (very sarcastic). Rkc is learning a lot about his motor and drive.
Ya I know. He’s gonna hit me when he sees me.
But he’s taking it all in the best anyone can.

 

[JFMFG]

From my interactions with the seller and just conversation with RKC. I don’t think so. It’s just a shit happens. Timing thing.

One good thing (very sarcastic). Rkc is learning a lot about his motor and drive.
Ya I know. He’s gonna hit me when he sees me.
But he’s taking it all in the best anyone can.

I learned the same way he did a few years back. Needless to say I continued to learn and that’s why I switched to outboards. . All you can do is roll with the punches when shit happens.

 

[Rkc]

So the seller prob didn’t know he was effing you over then.

no, I truly don't believe he knew. and having the pre buy done and everything checking good helps me believe that also, not that it matters now lol. Plus 4 or 5 back to back trips of no issues what so ever.

 

[Eliminator21vdrive]

I have had many heads fixed. Like stuff you just look at and go oh my god.... When you drop a valve at 9200 rpm and gernade a piston it leaves quite a mark. Lots of heads can be fixed. Remember lots of stuff add up when you swap heads, pushrods, rocker arms, springs. All kinds of additional costs over fixing stuff. But also it depends on the overall condition of the heads. Corrosion can play a big factor on if it is worth it to repair or replace.

Even at 6k it is destructive. My last spring failure destroyed everything except cam lifters and one head!

 

[Gelcoater]

I have 21 seasons on IMCO SC's with -2 Sportmaster lowers spinning 1.36 gears and 36 4 blades with no problems
The motors are naturally aspirated 540s that are 750 hp

I don't baby the drives at all getting on plane, mid range or top end
I imagine the twins spread the load quite a bit getting on plane vs the single but when my mechanic changes the drive fluid
he tells me to keep doing whatever I'm doing, no shavings on the drain plug or in the oil.

If you can swing the SCX you should prob go that direction, but see what Absolute says is the problem


View attachment 1424914

Without trying to derail here.
Is that Brent and Trent wiping down your boat?

 

[OC Daytona]

Without trying to derail here.
Is that Brent and Trent wiping down your boat?

Good eye Gelcoater, YES, that is Brent and Trent in Feb 2003. Our shakedown test at Smellssomemore. Wiping the green slime off.
We hit 115 before we ran out of lake.....I was happy. Brent had the mold "tuned up" just before they sprayed the hull. I talked to the Gelcoat guy (maybe you) the day before he sprayed it and he suggested a couple of changes to the flames that made it a little different from the 25 Daytona that was the Powerboat cover boat.
It's been a great boat. I still have it.

 

[Boat 405]

Even at 6k it is destructive. My last spring failure destroyed everything except cam lifters and one head!

Yup. I got mine shut off within about 2 seconds during a run while running 120mph. It's crazy because even at 2 seconds it had time to make about 150 revolutions. Most of the piston went out the exhaust pipe. The intake valve head ended up in the manifold along side the wrist pin in intake port across the plenum and somehow the rod stayed upright in the bore and didn't swing around like a saw blade through butter.

 

[JFMFG]

@Rkc any updates?

 

[Rkc]

@Rkc any updates?

Unfortunately not yet, been busy with work and out of town camping over thanksgiving for a week. But last time I talked with them, they had the heads pulled and were going to send them to Teague to be tested, I know Bob wanted them to do a few more tests to make sure it isn’t the block before sending out the heads. But as of now my boat is back in the garage at least, so at least it’s out of the sun, dirt, etc.

They pulled and tested the blower, and intercooler, and re tested my headers, all of them came back good.

 

[JFMFG]

Unfortunately not yet, been busy with work and out of town camping over thanksgiving for a week. But last time I talked with them, they had the heads pulled and were going to send them to Teague to be tested, I know Bob wanted them to do a few more tests to make sure it isn’t the block before sending out the heads. But as of now my boat is back in the garage at least, so at least it’s out of the sun, dirt, etc.

They pulled and tested the blower, and intercooler, and re tested my headers, all of them came back good.

Hope it’s just the heads then

 

[Rkc]

Hope it’s just the heads then

Me too. I feel they would have called me if anything else had tested bad. At least I hope they would haha

 

[JFMFG]

Me too. I feel they would have called me if anything else had tested bad. At least I hope they would haha

Keep me posted. Hope to see you back on the water soon once it warms up.

 

[ChrisV]

 

[OC Daytona]

Truth here

 

[Rkc]

Been quite a while since I’ve been able to give an update, beyond busy with work. I got the heads over to Teague just before Christmas, unfortunately with the holidays that slowed the process down a bit, but understandable and luckily it’s still offseason. They tested my heads and found about a 1” crack. Spent a while on the phone with them, as always super informative and extremely helpful. Going to replace the heads and all valvetrain components. Although some stuff may still be fine, I just feel better having it all fresh and hopefully be done with these issues. Going with the AFR 357 cnc heads, new lifters, valves, springs, rockers etc. So as soon as they’re done getting those all built they’ll be back out to Havasu and get the boat put back together. Will most likely need to have the carbs adjusted due to the increased amount of airflow from the AFR’s vs the darts that were on it before. Good news is they also said it’s a good possibility of gaining close to 60hp.
Just keeping my fingers crossed now that this is the last of my issues for quite some time.
Side note, I know everyone’s got their own opinions, but I’m going to replace all my trailer tires just due to age, any brands you recommend staying away from? They’re 255/55/18, currently have extra load suv tires right now.

 

[JFMFG]

Been quite a while since I’ve been able to give an update, beyond busy with work. I got the heads over to Teague just before Christmas, unfortunately with the holidays that slowed the process down a bit, but understandable and luckily it’s still offseason. They tested my heads and found about a 1” crack. Spent a while on the phone with them, as always super informative and extremely helpful. Going to replace the heads and all valvetrain components. Although some stuff may still be fine, I just feel better having it all fresh and hopefully be done with these issues. Going with the AFR 357 cnc heads, new lifters, valves, springs, rockers etc. So as soon as they’re done getting those all built they’ll be back out to Havasu and get the boat put back together. Will most likely need to have the carbs adjusted due to the increased amount of airflow from the AFR’s vs the darts that were on it before. Good news is they also said it’s a good possibility of gaining close to 60hp.
Just keeping my fingers crossed now that this is the last of my issues for quite some time.
Side note, I know everyone’s got their own opinions, but I’m going to replace all my trailer tires just due to age, any brands you recommend staying away from? They’re 255/55/18, currently have extra load suv tires right now.

Bummer. Any idea when the boat will be done?

 

[Boat 405]

Those are good choice of heads. I think you'll be happy with the AFR stuff. I have a set of AFR heads on my deal and have been very happy with them. I've had AFR heads on a couple motors in the past and always good results. If you can swing it get the shaft rockers. Not a necessity but awfully nice especially when adjusting valves if you have a solid roller.

 

[Rkc]

Bummer. Any idea when the boat will be done?

Not yet. I don’t have the new heads yet, but since Teague is building them there shouldn’t be too much work to do once it gets back to absolute. Then bolt it all back up and tune the carbs. And get out about 60 gallons of fuel that’s been in there since August.

 

[Boat 405]

Been quite a while since I’ve been able to give an update, beyond busy with work. I got the heads over to Teague just before Christmas, unfortunately with the holidays that slowed the process down a bit, but understandable and luckily it’s still offseason. They tested my heads and found about a 1” crack. Spent a while on the phone with them, as always super informative and extremely helpful. Going to replace the heads and all valvetrain components. Although some stuff may still be fine, I just feel better having it all fresh and hopefully be done with these issues. Going with the AFR 357 cnc heads, new lifters, valves, springs, rockers etc. So as soon as they’re done getting those all built they’ll be back out to Havasu and get the boat put back together. Will most likely need to have the carbs adjusted due to the increased amount of airflow from the AFR’s vs the darts that were on it before. Good news is they also said it’s a good possibility of gaining close to 60hp.
Just keeping my fingers crossed now that this is the last of my issues for quite some time.
Side note, I know everyone’s got their own opinions, but I’m going to replace all my trailer tires just due to age, any brands you recommend staying away from? They’re 255/55/18, currently have extra load suv tires right now.

I have 18" tires on my trailer. They are 255/55/18 Toyo Proxes. I'm on my second set. I've been very happy with them. I replaced them due to age. Mine is a 2019 trailer I just swapped them out at 5 years regardless of tread depth.

 

[Rkc]

Those are good choice of heads. I think you'll be happy with the AFR stuff. I have a set of AFR heads on my deal and have been very happy with them. I've had AFR heads on a couple motors in the past and always good results. If you can swing it get the shaft rockers. Not a necessity but awfully nice especially when adjusting valves if you have a solid roller.

I for sure wanted to get the shaft mounted rockers but being an additionally $2-3k more idk if I can swing it right now and I am running hydraulic. I left the setup completely up to Teague. And they set me up with the comp ultra pro mag xd’s. Which is what was in there before I believe

 

[n2otoofast4u]

What’s the story on the old heads. Are you using any of the heads or valvetrain? Interested in selling?

 

[Rkc]

What’s the story on the old heads. Are you using any of the heads or valvetrain? Interested in selling?

As far as I’m understanding from Teague. One head has a crack, shown in the picture above. But to your questions. No im not planning on using either of the heads or valve train components that are coming out, I would for sure be willing to sell but I can’t say exactly what the valvetrain components are besides the rockers which are comp pro magnums. The heads are dart pro1’s.
Need to get everything finished and boat dialed in before I can make anything happen though

 

[n2otoofast4u]

As far as I’m understanding from Teague. One head has a crack, shown in the picture above. But to your questions. No im not planning on using either of the heads or valve train components that are coming out, I would for sure be willing to sell but I can’t say exactly what the valvetrain components are besides the rockers which are comp pro magnums. The heads are dart pro1’s.
Need to get everything finished and boat dialed in before I can make anything happen though

I’d be interested in them. Those heads repaired are better than lots of other stuff around for a budget build.

 

[Rkc]

I’d be interested in them. Those heads repaired are better than lots of other stuff around for a budget build.

Awesome. You will definitely be first in line and I’ll let you know once I have the heads and valvetrain back.