25' Daytona ICC

[JFMFG]

Well a sad day for Little Mr.C. aka. RKC.
Short story I got. Was cruising about 60. Slowed into the throttle got to about 80 and then he said he felt like the brakes were slammed on.
Milky oil out of few places in the motor . Prop will not turn.
Not sure if he blew a drive and then the motor. Or if the motor is causing no prop spin.
My heart breaks for him as a parent
I’m not sure what he’s doing right now. But I’m drinking for him.

Damn that’s rough. Kid did everything he should have and still got the shaft. Welcome to boat ownership unfortunately

 

[OC Daytona]

Damn that’s rough. Kid did everything he should have and still got the shaft. Welcome to boat ownership unfortunately

More like welcome to high performance boat ownership. Hopefully he gets a few hundred hours out of the refreshed blower motor.
Prob time to upgrade the outdrive package as well. All that is not cheap up front, but better to do it now than blow the drive right after the rebuild.

I feel his pain. Beautiful boat by the way

 

[JFMFG]

I know a great motor builder in havasu when he’s ready.

 

[Rkc]

Definitely a bummer day yesterday. Things happen, but sucks after barely a month of owning it. All gauges were reading spot on, rpm, temp, pressure etc, then bam. Instantly backed off but could barely get the shifter back to neutral then shut her down. Maybe 5-10 seconds total before it was off. The motor was still running though and as far as i can see nothing through the block. But like my dad said, prop won’t spin and milky oil in bilge. Head gasket? And drive?

Don’t have a picture of it but what was odd to me when I pulled the dipstick wince back home, it had milky oil on the upper end, and nice clean oil at the bottom of the dipstick. Never been in this situation but I would have assumed all the oil would have been milky. The red fluid is on the blower right behind the pulley.

Here’s the best pictures I was able to get

 

[ChrisV]

I think it’s the drive. My motor got some blow by and comes out of the valve cover. Then the bilge area got oil stains as well.

Hopefully it’s the drive

 

[Dog]

Water on the top of the dipstick is hopefully condensation. Hopefully it is just the drive and you are back on the water next week.

 

[JFMFG]

Definitely a bummer day yesterday. Things happen, but sucks after barely a month of owning it. All gauges were reading spot on, rpm, temp, pressure etc, then bam. Instantly backed off but could barely get the shifter back to neutral then shut her down. Maybe 5-10 seconds total before it was off. The motor was still running though and as far as i can see nothing through the block. But like my dad said, prop won’t spin and milky oil in bilge. Head gasket? And drive?

Don’t have a picture of it but what was odd to me when I pulled the dipstick wince back home, it had milky oil on the upper end, and nice clean oil at the bottom of the dipstick. Never been in this situation but I would have assumed all the oil would have been milky. The red fluid is on the blower right behind the pulley. View attachment 1424879 View attachment 1424880 View attachment 1424880 View attachment 1424881 View attachment 1424882

Here’s the best pictures I was able to get

When are you gonna have it checked out?

 

[Rkc]

When are you gonna have it checked out?

Going to call absolute in the morning and see when they can get me in. Fingers crossed for just a drive. And at this point I feel I might as well just spend the money and go with an scx.

If it only blew the gears in the drive would I need to replace the whole unit? Or just depends on how bad it is? Would be nice not to need to replace both upper and lower since it’s already an imco lower.

 

[JFMFG]

Going to call absolute in the morning and see when they can get me in. Fingers crossed for just a drive. And at this point I feel I might as well just spend the money and go with an scx.

If it only blew the gears in the drive would I need to replace the whole unit? Or just depends on how bad it is? Would be nice not to need to replace both upper and lower since it’s already an imco lower.

To be honest I’m not sure. I’ve never broke a drive luckily. I have blown a few motors. I think you may just be looking at the drive. I would upgrade to the scx but you’re looking at prob 20k for complete drive im assuming.

 

[OC Daytona]

Going to call absolute in the morning and see when they can get me in. Fingers crossed for just a drive. And at this point I feel I might as well just spend the money and go with an scx.

If it only blew the gears in the drive would I need to replace the whole unit? Or just depends on how bad it is? Would be nice not to need to replace both upper and lower since it’s already an imco lower.

What horsepower and torque is the motor rated at?

What gear ratio (1.36 or 1.50) and prop are you currently spinning?

What is max RPM now?

 

[RiverDave]

Going to call absolute in the morning and see when they can get me in. Fingers crossed for just a drive. And at this point I feel I might as well just spend the money and go with an scx.

If it only blew the gears in the drive would I need to replace the whole unit? Or just depends on how bad it is? Would be nice not to need to replace both upper and lower since it’s already an imco lower.

Depends on what if anything was damaged inside.. you won’t know until they pull it apart.

RD

 

[Rkc]

What horsepower and torque is the motor rated at?

What gear ratio (1.36 or 1.50) and prop are you currently spinning?

What is max RPM now?

807hp, would have to dig up the paperwork for the torque, 1:36 gears with a 30p 4 blade. Not really too sure on max rpm. Have never opened her up all the way

 

[ChrisV]

807hp, would have to dig up the paperwork for the torque, 1:36 gears with a 30p 4 blade. Not really too sure on max rpm. Have never opened her up all the way

Pull prop and drain the drive oil if you want to sleep. Hopefully you see a shit load of metal.

 

[JFMFG]

807hp, would have to dig up the paperwork for the torque, 1:36 gears with a 30p 4 blade. Not really too sure on max rpm. Have never opened her up all the way

Keep us updated man. We hope it isn’t to costly.

 

[OC Daytona]

807hp, would have to dig up the paperwork for the torque, 1:36 gears with a 30p 4 blade. Not really too sure on max rpm. Have never opened her up all the way

I have 21 seasons on IMCO SC's with -2 Sportmaster lowers spinning 1.36 gears and 36 4 blades with no problems
The motors are naturally aspirated 540s that are 750 hp

I don't baby the drives at all getting on plane, mid range or top end
I imagine the twins spread the load quite a bit getting on plane vs the single but when my mechanic changes the drive fluid
he tells me to keep doing whatever I'm doing, no shavings on the drain plug or in the oil.

If you can swing the SCX you should prob go that direction, but see what Absolute says is the problem

 

[wet hull]

Going to call absolute in the morning and see when they can get me in. Fingers crossed for just a drive. And at this point I feel I might as well just spend the money and go with an scx.

If it only blew the gears in the drive would I need to replace the whole unit? Or just depends on how bad it is? Would be nice not to need to replace both upper and lower since it’s already an imco lower.

I would say just the drive. When you locked up the drive and motor couldn't spin you may have got reversion if the exhaust valves were open. Mine did this when I lost a rocker arm. Exhaust valve was stuck open and it sucked water in. I was convinced I was screwed prior to valve covers coming off. Once covers were off and spark plugs pulled it rotated no issue and all was good. Fingers crossed for you it's a simple drive rebuild.

 

[Rkc]

The boat will hopefully be at absolute within the next couple days. Talked to Aaron for a while today. Super informative. He’s going to tear the drive off, hopefully be able to keep my sc lower, and also dig into the motor, leak down test etc and get back to me if it’s damaged or not. Fingers crossed for no damage. Got quotes for scx upper, gimbal, etc to swap the upper. Gonna hurt the wallet a bit but it’s gotta be done either way.

 

[JFMFG]

The boat will hopefully be at absolute within the next couple days. Talked to Aaron for a while today. Super informative. He’s going to tear the drive off, hopefully be able to keep my sc lower, and also dig into the motor, leak down test etc and get back to me if it’s damaged or not. Fingers crossed for no damage. Got quotes for scx upper, gimbal, etc to swap the upper. Gonna hurt the wallet a bit but it’s gotta be done either way.

Hopefully that’s all it’ll be. If it needs a motor that’s gonna suck.

 

[OC Daytona]

The boat will hopefully be at absolute within the next couple days. Talked to Aaron for a while today. Super informative. He’s going to tear the drive off, hopefully be able to keep my sc lower, and also dig into the motor, leak down test etc and get back to me if it’s damaged or not. Fingers crossed for no damage. Got quotes for scx upper, gimbal, etc to swap the upper. Gonna hurt the wallet a bit but it’s gotta be done either way.

You're probably too young to have seen the old Fram oil filter commercials but they said "You can pay me now, or you can pay me later"

Seems to be a common theme in high performance boating. Sometimes its "you can pay me now and pay me later"

PM me the approx quote you got for all the SCX upgrade work please

Thanks

 

[Rkc]

Boat is over at absolute now for the last couple days. They call and even text pictures as they’re going through it. Not sure if all shops do that but it’s nice to see pictures and actually see what’s going on.

As of now, the leak down came back good, they’re pressure testing the headers then move on from there to find out where/how the condensation built inside the valve covers.

The upper is pretty smoked as you can see in the pictures, minor pitting on the gears in the lower, so told them we’ll just replace them rather than trying to save them. Would rather know everything is fresh. Also looking into the Teague torsion flex shaft. Talked to ChrisV on the phone today for a while about it and all sorts of other stuff (thanks Chris!).

Going to end up doing the conversion to scx upper. Would rather spend the money and scrub a few mph off the top for the reliability.

Pics from the upper.

 

[JFMFG]

Boat is over at absolute now for the last couple days. They call and even text pictures as they’re going through it. Not sure if all shops do that but it’s nice to see pictures and actually see what’s going on.

As of now, the leak down came back good, they’re pressure testing the headers then move on from there to find out where/how the condensation built inside the valve covers.

The upper is pretty smoked as you can see in the pictures, minor pitting on the gears in the lower, so told them we’ll just replace them rather than trying to save them. Would rather know everything is fresh. Also looking into the Teague torsion flex shaft. Talked to ChrisV on the phone today for a while about it and all sorts of other stuff (thanks Chris!).

Going to end up doing the conversion to scx upper. Would rather spend the money and scrub a few mph off the top for the reliability.

Pics from the upper.


View attachment 1427711 View attachment 1427712 View attachment 1427713 View attachment 1427714

Motor is good though? That’s gotta be a relief

 

[Nail It]

SCX upper is the only way to go and I didn't loose any mph. The SCX upper and SC lower is a solid package for 800hp in a 25 daytona.

 

[ChrisV]

No prob! We doing this together! No homo

Here the tank I made for the oil change.
https://a.co/d/86dMApu pump

 

[Rkc]

Motor is good though? That’s gotta be a relief

As of now it seems everything in the motor is still good. Just gotta find where the moisture is coming from. Went to Teague on Monday and they said it could be from oil temp and water temp being too far off from each other. But it has a 3”diameter x 22” long oil/power steering cooler. Will probably have them flush it and make sure everything is still working properly on it.

 

[Rkc]

No prob! We doing this together! No homo

Here the tank I made for the oil change.
https://a.co/d/86dMApu pump

View attachment 1427722
View attachment 1427723

Thanks!

No prob! We doing this together! No homo

Here the tank I made for the oil change.
https://a.co/d/86dMApu pump

View attachment 1427722
View attachment 1427723

thanks!

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Most all my junk has condensation (milky oil) at the breathers. Nothing concerning to me. Have them check everything, but that might not be a sign of looming disaster.

 

[JFMFG]

No prob! We doing this together! No homo

Here the tank I made for the oil change.
https://a.co/d/86dMApu pump

View attachment 1427722
View attachment 1427723

Are you cheating on me?

 

[ChrisV]

Are you cheating on me?

I gotta help my I/O lovers as well

 

[Rkc]

Any thoughts on how it would look going with the silver scx upper but keeping my black extension box? Tried to search and find some pictures but came up blank. and I definitely don’t have the photoshop skills lol.

Eventually will do the full silver set up, but just trying to get back on the water for now.

 

[ChrisV]

Any thoughts on how it would look going with the silver scx upper but keeping my black extension box? Tried to search and find some pictures but came up blank. and I definitely don’t have the photoshop skills lol.

Eventually will do the full silver set up, but just trying to get back on the water for now.

It’s a pita to remove the extension box and powdercoat. Otherwise I woulda done it. But imco doesn’t doesn’t have silver drives in stock too. So call them and ask how long it would take.

 

[HBCraig]

I have 21 seasons on IMCO SC's with -2 Sportmaster lowers spinning 1.36 gears and 36 4 blades with no problems
The motors are naturally aspirated 540s that are 750 hp

I don't baby the drives at all getting on plane, mid range or top end
I imagine the twins spread the load quite a bit getting on plane vs the single but when my mechanic changes the drive fluid
he tells me to keep doing whatever I'm doing, no shavings on the drain plug or in the oil.

If you can swing the SCX you should prob go that direction, but see what Absolute says is the problem


View attachment 1424914

36P and 1:36 gears. Holy shit.

 

[ToMorrow44]

Boat is over at absolute now for the last couple days. They call and even text pictures as they’re going through it. Not sure if all shops do that but it’s nice to see pictures and actually see what’s going on.

As of now, the leak down came back good, they’re pressure testing the headers then move on from there to find out where/how the condensation built inside the valve covers.

The upper is pretty smoked as you can see in the pictures, minor pitting on the gears in the lower, so told them we’ll just replace them rather than trying to save them. Would rather know everything is fresh. Also looking into the Teague torsion flex shaft. Talked to ChrisV on the phone today for a while about it and all sorts of other stuff (thanks Chris!).

Going to end up doing the conversion to scx upper. Would rather spend the money and scrub a few mph off the top for the reliability.

Pics from the upper.


View attachment 1427711 View attachment 1427712 View attachment 1427713 View attachment 1427714

I have a standard length Teague vertical shaft sitting in storage if you want. I’d sell it real cheap.

 

[Rkc]

I have a standard length Teague vertical shaft sitting in storage if you want. I’d sell it real cheap.

Thank you, I have the -2 lower though so I don’t think that would work

 

[Mr. C]

Shit day on the lake. Started awesome got the boat back. New drives etc.
30 minutes out. Milky oil. Shut her down. Towed back. Hoping for an oil cooler leak and nothing worse.
FYI Rob is awesome.

 

[ChrisV]

Saw this on facebook and wasnt sure if it was @Rkc

Did you guys randomly check the oil when you were out?

 

[JFMFG]

Shit day on the lake. Started awesome got the boat back. New drives etc.
30 minutes out. Milky oil. Shut her down. Towed back. Hoping for an oil cooler leak and nothing worse.
FYI Rob is awesome.

View attachment 1448814

Saw this on facebook and wasnt sure if it was @Rkc

Did you guys randomly check the oil when you were out?

No way!!!! Fuck I hope it’s something simple. Milky oil doesn’t sound good. Been there done a motor. I’m don’t wish that shit on anyone.

 

[Mr. C]

Saw this on facebook and wasnt sure if it was @Rkc

Did you guys randomly check the oil when you were out?

Yes
And the oil is milky through and through.

 

[Rkc]

Saw this on facebook and wasnt sure if it was @Rkc

Did you guys randomly check the oil when you were out?

yeah, we launched idled around for about 10 minutes which is what the shop recommended since the drive and gears were all brand new, after that we started to head down to the springs from Riviera, ran about 55-60mph the whole way, I started to get cold and just stopped to throw on my sweatshirt, thought I smelled something odd, wasn't sure if it was me or the boat that had just passed by us. Opened up the hatch to double check and found that milky oil had blown out of the valve cover breathers again. shut it down right away and called a tow. While waiting for the tow I decided to pull the dipstick and check the oil down in the pan. All milky on the dipstick. When I lost the drive, the oil was only milky up In the valve covers, so I'm not sure what has changed. The leakdown test came back perfect, pressure test on the headers came back perfect, they put all new header gaskets and exhaust gaskets. Im not really sure where else the issue could be coming from. Possibly something wrong in my oil cooler? I'm stumped and pretty bummed once again lol.

 

[Rkc]

 

[ChrisV]

yeah, we launched idled around for about 10 minutes which is what the shop recommended since the drive and gears were all brand new, after that we started to head down to the springs from Riviera, ran about 55-60mph the whole way, I started to get cold and just stopped to throw on my sweatshirt, thought I smelled something odd, wasn't sure if it was me or the boat that had just passed by us. Opened up the hatch to double check and found that milky oil had blown out of the valve cover breathers again. shut it down right away and called a tow. While waiting for the tow I decided to pull the dipstick and check the oil down in the pan. All milky on the dipstick. When I lost the drive, the oil was only milky up In the valve covers, so I'm not sure what has changed. The leakdown test came back perfect, pressure test on the headers came back perfect, they put all new header gaskets and exhaust gaskets. Im not really sure where else the issue could be coming from. Possibly something wrong in my oil cooler? I'm stumped and pretty bummed once again lol.

If it was me. I’ll change the oil and run it again. Did you ever change the oil when you got it?

 

[Rkc]

If it was me. I’ll change the oil and run it again. Did you ever change the oil when you got it?

yeah all fresh fluids, filters and impeller. Probably less than an hour on that oil.

 

[JFMFG]

yeah all fresh fluids, filters and impeller. Probably less than an hour on that oil.

Dude such a bummer. I know the feeling of disappointment. I’d def start with the oil cooler next or like @ChrisV said change the oil and run it.

 

[Boat 405]

yeah, we launched idled around for about 10 minutes which is what the shop recommended since the drive and gears were all brand new, after that we started to head down to the springs from Riviera, ran about 55-60mph the whole way, I started to get cold and just stopped to throw on my sweatshirt, thought I smelled something odd, wasn't sure if it was me or the boat that had just passed by us. Opened up the hatch to double check and found that milky oil had blown out of the valve cover breathers again. shut it down right away and called a tow. While waiting for the tow I decided to pull the dipstick and check the oil down in the pan. All milky on the dipstick. When I lost the drive, the oil was only milky up In the valve covers, so I'm not sure what has changed. The leakdown test came back perfect, pressure test on the headers came back perfect, they put all new header gaskets and exhaust gaskets. Im not really sure where else the issue could be coming from. Possibly something wrong in my oil cooler? I'm stumped and pretty bummed once again lol.

Oil cooler

 

[OC Daytona]

View attachment 1449543

yeah all fresh fluids, filters and impeller. Probably less than an hour on that oil.

Bummed for you brother. I had an oil cooler issue with brand new motors many years ago......ruined one day on the lake, but once we figured it out, all was good and haven't had a problem since. High performance is rarely turn key as most of the folks on this site have learned, but it sure is fun once you get it right

 

[Luvnlife]

What goes bad on oil coolers? O rings or gaskets?

 

[OC Daytona]

What goes bad on oil coolers? O rings or gaskets?

In my case, motors and oil coolers were both brand new. The oil coolers were freshly powder coated blue to match the gel color and when they re-assembled the cooler on one side, they missed some material they used to mask off one of the small openings in the oil cooler and it impeded oil flow or some shit and was causing one motor to run hotter than the other. Not enough to overheat it, but enough that you could see it on the gauge, so wasn't sure if it was a bad gauge, sending unit or cooler itself.
Had to pull the motor to get to the cooler to find out WTF happened. So I was a little stressed that I had gone TOO custom.

No milkshake oil though. At least you have a few months to get it right for the main season

 

[JFMFG]

In my case, motors and oil coolers were both brand new. The oil coolers were freshly powder coated blue to match the gel color and when they re-assembled the cooler on one side, they missed some material they used to mask off one of the small openings in the oil cooler and it impeded oil flow or some shit and was causing one motor to run hotter than the other. Not enough to overheat it, but enough that you could see it on the gauge, so wasn't sure if it was a bad gauge, sending unit or cooler itself.
Had to pull the motor to get to the cooler to find out WTF happened. So I was a little stressed that I had gone TOO custom.

No milkshake oil though. At least you have a few months to get it right for the main season



View attachment 1449612

Poor @Rkc prob just spent 20k to get the drive right etc. I feel for him.

 

[Mr. C]

Poor @Rkc prob just spent 20k to get the drive right etc. I feel for him.

I know it makes my stomach turn for him
But he has good spirits and acts like he is rolling with it well. For now.

 

[Nail It]

As a test, I would try temporarily bypassing the oil cooler by taking oil lines off and connecting them together. You may need some misc fittings and a short piece of 12an hose. Then cap the oil fittings on the oil cooler. Change the oil again, and take it for another 15-20min ride at 60mph. The oil temp will get warmer than normal but it won't hurt anything for this short test. If the problem is solved, and there's no more milkshake oil, then you know it's the oil cooler. If the problem is not solved, you may need to start looking at intake manifold gaskets, and/or pressure testing the block. Hope this helps.

Another thought I just had is, if there is an issue with the oil cooler mixing water and oil. Since the oil pressure is higher than the water pressure, it would be loosing oil into the cooling system, then exiting out the exhaust with the rest of the raw water. I'm just thinking out loud of some possible causes and solutions for you. These type of issues make me loose sleep until I figure it out. Good luck and please let us know when you figure out what the root cause of the problem is.

 

[Rkc]

So Nail it is correct as far as it not being the oil cooler, if it were then I would be low on oil as a result of it mixing and blowing out of the exhaust. The headers we re pressure tested, checked good, they pulled the blower and the intercooler, all good there. Have the heads off now which is looking like that is going to be what is causing the milky oil (hopefully, fingers crossed). a few more checks and tests to be done first on the block, not exactly sure what, but if those check good, then the heads will be off to get tested. At this point I'm just hoping that it is the heads and not a cracked block. If it is the heads, depending on how bad, I'll have a decision to make as far as repairing them or replacing them. They are currently Darts, but If replacing, after talking with Aaron, and Bob at Teague, I think I will probably go with the AFR's. I feel like I'm leaning more towards just replacing them rather than repairing, just for peace of mind knowing it as all new. But I'll leave that up to the expert opinion.