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2007 Chrysler 300 no start problem..

Cray Paper

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My girlfriends son has a 2007 base model Chrysler 300 that I am trying to get back on the road. It had the common shifter linkage breakage problem that he said he repaired but it left him stranded a couple months later with not being able to shift it out of park. When I got involved the shifter was partially disassembled, battery was shot, and the shifter was halfway torn down with the console still in the car. The key was also not able to be removed from the ignition.

I have replaced the shifter with a remanufactured unit, replaced the battery and replaced the cable going from the shifter to the ignition. It's progress but it still will not crank over or start (and leave my driveway) . Anyone have experience with these things or have a recommendation for a site that can fill in the blanks?
 

monkeyswrench

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Check the shift linkage to the transmission itself. The shifter may be out of adjustment, showing it is in park, but may not be fully in park at the tranny end.
 

Orange Juice

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So starter does not crank. Battery is new.

Has a history of the steering column being reassembled.

I’d get a electrical diagram, and look for the lock out switch. The one that doesn’t let you start the car in drive.
 

HOOTER SLED-

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Maybe it has a chipped key or something? New one doesn't match the switch or something?
 

lbhsbz

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Probably a fucked TIPM, like they all have.
 

hman442

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Maybe it has a chipped key or something? New one doesn't match the switch or something?
If he "gave you the spare key", that could be an issue. Sometimes car will "read" one key, but not the other. Read up on the anti theft system, how it recognizes the key. It could be an issue with that, and not something physical/mechanical
 

Cray Paper

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Check the shift linkage to the transmission itself. The shifter may be out of adjustment, showing it is in park, but may not be fully in park at the tranny end.
Is there a way to do this without jacking the car up and visibly confirming it's in park?
 

Cray Paper

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Is there a way to do this without jacking the car up and visibly confirming it's in park?
My limited understanding of the BTIS is that the communication of the shifter position to the PCM takes place in the shifter, not the transmission?
 

Racey

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If he "gave you the spare key", that could be an issue. Sometimes car will "read" one key, but not the other. Read up on the anti theft system, how it recognizes the key. It could be an issue with that, and not something physical/mechanical

Wont a vats failure usually allow the car to start and run for like 1 second and then shut off?
 

monkeyswrench

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My limited understanding of the BTIS is that the communication of the shifter position to the PCM takes place in the shifter, not the transmission?
Usually, they need to "see" each other and agree. Jacking it up would be my go to, or a good scanner that shows both commanded by shifter, and the actual of trans.
As @lbhsbz says though, TIPM modules on that era are problematic...I know for sure with the Rams. They are like an integrated fuse, relay, circuit thing.

You may have luck looking online for a forum dealing with those cars. Even looking up "no start" service bulletins for the model may give you some ideas.
 

Cray Paper

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When the tow truck dropped it off the shifter was in park and the E brake was set, I assumed the tranny was actually in P. A little later I was looking at it and it rolled backwards slowly. It went about 6" and I put chocks behind the rear tires. Thought that was odd for it to roll that far while in P.

I disconnected the shifter to tranny cable a little while ago and pushed / pulled on it, I could hear it going through the detents in the tranny and it moved freely.

I called the owner and asked again about the specifics of what happened. He went to start it up and it wouldn't start and the tranny wouldn't shift out of P, but he could still remove the ignition key. When I looked at it at his place I pushed and pulled on the ignition interlock cable, got it loose from the shifter and then the ignition key wouldn't come out. This was after he replaced the common problem plastic receiver for the ignition interlock cable. He only has one key and that's the one I have.

Another thing to not is that since the shifter, battery and ignition interlock cable have been replaced ( key removed from ignition) I can hear a light hum from the dash area and when the door is opened their is a fast paced alarm chime like something is on, like the headlights, but nothing is.
 

oldboatsrule

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The key not coming out is your sign.... it's not in park.
1. Remove cable from transmission.
2. Manually ensure transmission fully engaged in park.
3. Adjust/reconnect cable.
4. Drink celebratory beer or twelve
 
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hman442

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Wont a vats failure usually allow the car to start and run for like 1 second and then shut off?
Sorry, I don't remember. Some of them do, but I don't recall if that's GM, or Chrysler
 

Cray Paper

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The key not coming out is your sign.... it's not in park.
1. Remove cable from transmission.
2. Manually ensure transmission fully engaged in park.
3. Adjust/reconnect cable.
4. Drink celebratory beer or twelve
I noticed after replacing the shifter, battery and cable going from the shifter to the ignition that when the key was removed there was something deep in the dash still humming, like the ignition didn't shut off. When the key is removed from the the ignition, and the drivers door ( only the DD) is opened, the chime is fast like the headlights are switched on. I turned everything off but it seems like something with a cable or switch is out of adjustment and telling the PCM it's still on.

I left the battery connected last night and it was down to 6V this afternoon. I also pulled the fuses last night and the one that is the handling the shutdown procedures kept clicking and some of the relays in the engine compartment were doing the same.

I might have made things worse, found a video on YT and jumper wired the engine compartment fuse / relay panel and the car started and ran, albeit at 2500 RPM...after doing so I realized how dumb this was... Wasn't 100% positive it was in neutral and was standing in front of it and it was pointed right at my house. That was before replacing parts. I do know the starter, PCM, coils etc work, or did.

How do you adjust the tranny / ignition cable so they are in alignment?
 

Cray Paper

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I love me a Cray Paper girlfriend thread.
Life has a of way of leveling shit out, and we learn what matters most for each of us going through the dregs of bad relationships. I know the woman I'm with is very intelligent, understands her self emotionally, has a solid grasp of how men think and has has her shit together and has for a long time. She knows what I am thinking about the same time I am. Will this work long term, we will find out. She is not Bi Polar nor does she have a victim mentality from youth like my first ex.

I posted my experiences to help people going through the same dregs of life, seems odd you are looking forward to a train wreck again.
 

timstoy

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Have you turned the ignition on and shift into neutral and see if it starts?
 

Kachina26

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Life has a of way of leveling shit out, and we learn what matters most for each of us going through the dregs of bad relationships. I know the woman I'm with is very intelligent, understands her self emotionally, has a solid grasp of how men think and has has her shit together and has for a long time. She knows what I am thinking about the same time I am. Will this work long term, we will find out. She is not Bi Polar nor does she have a victim mentality from youth like my first ex.

I posted my experiences to help people going through the same dregs of life, seems odd you are looking forward to a train wreck again.
No offense intended, but you fall too hard too fast. I wish you the best.
 

4Waters

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Take the cable loose on the transmission and physically/manually make sure its in park and see if it starts
 

Ultra...Good

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Sounds like you have a bunch of things going on there, good luck. I am no help with which forum is a good one to go to for help. There are a few out there if you google it, chryslerforum.com is one of them.

If it were me though, I would be thinking now is a good time to get another car. I don't see too many older Chrslers on the road and I think I know why.
 

Orange Juice

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I noticed after replacing the shifter, battery and cable going from the shifter to the ignition that when the key was removed there was something deep in the dash still humming, like the ignition didn't shut off. When the key is removed from the the ignition, and the drivers door ( only the DD) is opened, the chime is fast like the headlights are switched on. I turned everything off but it seems like something with a cable or switch is out of adjustment and telling the PCM it's still on.

I left the battery connected last night and it was down to 6V this afternoon. I also pulled the fuses last night and the one that is the handling the shutdown procedures kept clicking and some of the relays in the engine compartment were doing the same.

I might have made things worse, found a video on YT and jumper wired the engine compartment fuse / relay panel and the car started and ran, albeit at 2500 RPM...after doing so I realized how dumb this was... Wasn't 100% positive it was in neutral and was standing in front of it and it was pointed right at my house. That was before replacing parts. I do know the starter, PCM, coils etc work, or did.

How do you adjust the tranny / ignition cable so they are in alignment?

Still thinks the key is in the ignition, and the transmission is in something other than park or neutral.

You a close.
 

Orange Juice

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C10D425F-DF3B-485F-8CFD-8DD2CA05E009.jpeg

Here we go. The battery feed from the switch goes through the cigar lighter? There is a fuse.
 

Cray Paper

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Take the cable loose on the transmission and physically/manually make sure its in park and see if it starts
I have manipulated the shifter through all the gears while trying to crank it over as well as done the same manually pushing / pulling the transmission cable. I can hear the detents in the tranny clicking and the door locks lock once it's out of park.
 

Cray Paper

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Went through the fuses and relays with a multi meter, all checked out but did find that the BCM wasn't receiving the 5v signal from the ignition switch when attempting to crank. I pulled the ignition assembly apart and found the nose of the ignition switch actuator assembly was broken off in the switch. I had noticed that when turning the key to the crank position and letting go, it didn't snap back to run. I asked the owner last weekend if that was normal and he said it was.

Dodge doesn't sell that part anymore so I got one coming from the local parts store. I feel like this is the last issue to address to get this thing running, fingers crossed.
 

Cray Paper

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Got it running! In retrospect it had a couple of issues, the shifter and or cable going to the the ignition were F'd up. The key not snapping back to the run position after hitting the start position was an indicator that the ignition actuator was tits up, and it was. Dodge doesn't assembly any longer, but the local parts store did.
 

HNL2LHC

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Good to hear that you got it all figured out…..the car that is. 👍 J/K.



Best to you and the girlfriend. It can be tough out there looking for a partner these days.
 

50onRED

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My girlfriends son has a 2007 base model Chrysler 300 that I am trying to get back on the road. It had the common shifter linkage breakage problem that he said he repaired but it left him stranded a couple months later with not being able to shift it out of park. When I got involved the shifter was partially disassembled, battery was shot, and the shifter was halfway torn down with the console still in the car. The key was also not able to be removed from the ignition.

I have replaced the shifter with a remanufactured unit, replaced the battery and replaced the cable going from the shifter to the ignition. It's progress but it still will not crank over or start (and leave my driveway) . Anyone have experience with these things or have a recommendation for a site that can fill in the blanks?
Those cars require a couple things to start. One of them is your foot on the brake. This also clicks a relay in the shifter that allows it to be removed from park. If the shifter is in anything other than park or neutral it will not start.
When you put the key in and turn it to accessory does the dash light up, radio come on etc?
Also check all of the fuses. Should be a box near the battery and another on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Those cars are electrical nightmares And one wire being unplugged or shorted can stop it dead in its tracks.
Also, there could be an aftermarket theft deterrent that is usually under the driver side dash.
Take the key and close all of the doors, put the key in the driver door (only) and lock the car then unlock it again (not with the buttons, only by turning the actual key) this will shut down the factory theft deterrent but if there’s an aftermarket one it will need to be shut off manually. 99% of the time I found an aftermarket alarm to be the problem and most people thought theirs was factory because it came in the car from the dealership. When in reality the dealership installed it and added it to the cost of the car. They are always junk and when the battery is dead or switched it often times kills those alarms. Check under the driver dash for any little black box (like 1”x1.5” with a wire coming out of one end and an LED on the other.
Report back… good luck
 

Cray Paper

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Those cars require a couple things to start. One of them is your foot on the brake. This also clicks a relay in the shifter that allows it to be removed from park. If the shifter is in anything other than park or neutral it will not start.
When you put the key in and turn it to accessory does the dash light up, radio come on etc?
Also check all of the fuses. Should be a box near the battery and another on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Those cars are electrical nightmares And one wire being unplugged or shorted can stop it dead in its tracks.
Also, there could be an aftermarket theft deterrent that is usually under the driver side dash.
Take the key and close all of the doors, put the key in the driver door (only) and lock the car then unlock it again (not with the buttons, only by turning the actual key) this will shut down the factory theft deterrent but if there’s an aftermarket one it will need to be shut off manually. 99% of the time I found an aftermarket alarm to be the problem and most people thought theirs was factory because it came in the car from the dealership. When in reality the dealership installed it and added it to the cost of the car. They are always junk and when the battery is dead or switched it often times kills those alarms. Check under the driver dash for any little black box (like 1”x1.5” with a wire coming out of one end and an LED on the other.
Report back… good luck
Thank you for taking the time to give me tips, hopefully I wont need to dig this thread back up! I got it running last night.
 

Cray Paper

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I am really starting to dislike like this F'ing car! My son in law asked if I could help do the brakes on it, I said sure, should only take a couple of hours and I can show him how to do it and spend some quality time in the garage with him. Started at Friday morning 10:00am and quit around 11:00pm Friday night after snapping off one of the bolts that holds the drivers side rear caliper bracket to the knuckle. We encountered lots of issues before this happened, but overcame them with trips to several auto parts stores, two trips to Les Schwab (lug nuts) and two trips to Lowes. Stuck rotors, frozen caliper slides, lug nut decorative caps that froze and expanded and wouldn't bite on the actual lug nuts to allow removing the rims etc.).

So, the 2 bolts that held the drivers side rear caliper bracket on to the rear suspension knuckle were a PITA to remove, I had to use a 2' x 1/2 drive" breaker bar with a cheater bar to remove them. Once apart I looked over the bolts and the threads and they looked OK and no rust. Most of the other bolts and parts we removed had a lot of rust, but not these. I also used WD 40 in the dismantle scope, and the bolt threads were cleaned with a wire wheel on my bench grinder before reassembly. Those two bolts went back in just as hard as they came out. We got the bottom one in close to being snug then spent an hour plus with the breaker bar to get the top bolt in. It snapped right before the shoulder made contact with the knuckle.

Anyone have experience with working on the rear suspension on these things? I google searched the issue and found a thread mentioning snapping the same bolt off on the same side on a similar car. NFW is either of those bolts coming out with an easy out (I know the other will snap off when removed again), the threads were jacked when we pulled it apart and it didn't look they were ever taken apart before. It looks like their is some type of crush sleeve that will need to be replaced for the spring link bushing ( like the pinion bushing on a 10 bolt GM axle?) and it takes a specialty tool and a new crush bushing.

How do I fix this? I know the knuckle needs to come off, but is drilling it out and helicoiling it a legit option? Is buying a used one insuring it doesn't have the same problems with machining / tapping of the threads? MOPAR has discontinued the part so that cuts down on the options.


Old thread I found to support what I am saying https://www.300cforums.com/threads/wrecked-driver-side-rear-knuckle.81611/
 

monkeyswrench

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The spring link bushing is a steel sleeve, like on an alternator bracket. When you get the bolt out, usually you can coax the bushing and it's sleeve out. When the knuckle is off, I've used a nut, bolt and sleeve to pull them out, or put the bolt head against the other side, and run the nut and a washer against the sleeve to push it back out.

As for the threaded stuff, I have no answers.
 

ChumpChange

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My girlfriends son has a 2007 base model Chrysler 300 that I am really starting to dislike like this F'ing car! My son in law asked if I could help do the brakes on it, I said sure, should only take a couple of hours and I can show him...

So he’s the girlfriends son…

I am really starting to dislike like this F'ing car! My son in law asked if I could help do the brakes on it, I said sure, should only take a couple of hours and

Now he’s a son in law?

Did your daughter marry your girlfriend’s son?
 

Cray Paper

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So he’s the girlfriends son…



Now he’s a son in law?

Did your daughter marry your girlfriend’s son?
I fucked up, he is my wife's son. I have two biological sons, my wife has one biological son. I find it odd that you seem to have nothing better to do than focus on other peoples (my) lives and seem to get enjoyment from pointing out mistakes. If I had the time and mental bandwidth to focus attention on someone on a website I have never met I think I would refocus that attention on family and or making money.

Would you like my unimpeded focus put on you on this site or other social media outlets you post on? If you want my attention I can refocus and put resources to it.., I have them at my disposal. You can PM or share your thoughts in public on RDP's place. If your all in on game on I can go that route, you wont like the outcome.
 

Cray Paper

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The spring link bushing is a steel sleeve, like on an alternator bracket. When you get the bolt out, usually you can coax the bushing and it's sleeve out. When the knuckle is off, I've used a nut, bolt and sleeve to pull them out, or put the bolt head against the other side, and run the nut and a washer against the sleeve to push it back out.

As for the threaded stuff, I have no answers.

Thank you for the advise, the way the two bolts came out of that caliper bracket on dis assembly I knew they were not going back in with out issues but didn't have an option at the time. Now the car is sitting in my driveway again and waiting on me to fix it. Just hoping someone can add their experience with the same the same thing. My senses say replace the casting / knuckle and bolts. I could pull the knuckle casting, drill it out, heli coil it, or buy a used knuckle and hope for the best? This just feels like a Chrysler / Dodge issue and hope it doesnt have the same issue.
 

monkeyswrench

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Thank you for the advise, the way the two bolts came out of that caliper bracket on dis assembly I knew they were not going back in with out issues but didn't have an option at the time. Now the car is sitting in my driveway again and waiting on me to fix it. Just hoping someone can add their experience with the same the same thing. My senses say replace the casting / knuckle and bolts. I could pull the knuckle casting, drill it out, heli coil it, or buy a used knuckle and hope for the best? This just feels like a Chrysler / Dodge issue and hope it doesnt have the same issue.
I've seen "repair kit" bolts, but those are meant for stripped holes. I've had pretty good luck putting heat to bolts like that, but they are usually just stuck with thread locker and age. If I'm not mistaken, I believe you were PNW, so oxidation is an issue. Stuff like that, sometimes some heat and an impact gun. Not so much for the torque, but mote the vibration.
 

ChumpChange

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I fucked up, he is my wife's son. I have two biological sons, my wife has one biological son. I find it odd that you seem to have nothing better to do than focus on other peoples (my) lives and seem to get enjoyment from pointing out mistakes. If I had the time and mental bandwidth to focus attention on someone on a website I have never met I think I would refocus that attention on family and or making money.

Would you like my unimpeded focus put on you on this site or other social media outlets you post on? If you want my attention I can refocus and put resources to it.., I have them at my disposal. You can PM or share your thoughts in public on RDP's place. If your all in on game on I can go that route, you wont like the outcome.
Thanks for the clarification. That makes sense for him to become a step son after a girlfriend’s son. Much easier to reconcile that than a son in law. ;)

Here’s the thing. I don’t post my entire life on the forum. I guess it would be pretty boring seeing as I’m still married to my first wife. Details are just picked up on. It doesn’t take focus or brain power for some people. Must be a gift.
 

Cray Paper

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Thanks for the clarification. That makes sense for him to become a step son after a girlfriend’s son. Much easier to reconcile that than a son in law. ;)

Here’s the thing. I don’t post my entire life on the forum. I guess it would be pretty boring seeing as I’m still married to my first wife. Details are just picked up on. It doesn’t take focus or brain power for some people. Must be a gift.
I went through some drastic life experiences and posted them on RDP's place not to get empathy but to share my brutal life experiences with the intent that if anyone else was going through the same thing they didn't feel alone. I did that hoping others that might be experience the same thing would see how things turned out for me and it would provide hope / optimism for them even though I posted my thoughts in the middle of the chaos and the outcome wasn't known yet.. I share my personnel relational issues in an attempt to help otheres that are going through the same thing.

What is your motivation for responding to my posts??
 

ChumpChange

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I went through some drastic life experiences and posted them on RDP's place not to get empathy but to share my brutal life experiences with the intent that if anyone else was going through the same thing they didn't feel alone. I did that hoping others that might be experience the same thing would see how things turned out for me and it would provide hope / optimism for them even though I posted my thoughts in the middle of the chaos and the outcome wasn't known yet.. I share my personnel relational issues in an attempt to help otheres that are going through the same thing.

What is your motivation for responding to my posts??
Entertainment. I’ve been following along since the beginning.
 

Cray Paper

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It was way more work and money than it should have been (again, life long GM fan boy) but the POS is back on the road. I added several tools to my arsenal and a little bit to my mechanical aptitude. I had no idea inverted Torx sockets were a thing, now I own a complete set of them, a 32MM impact socket, borrowed a 1/2" drive Milwaukie corded impact wrench from my dad (super helpful!), a new floor jack ( still have tingly feelings in some of my fingers from when the spring clamps slipped off my 73 Camaro and almost amputated two of the tips of my fingers on my left hand), plethora of 1/2" drive deep sockets etc. Step son is back on the road, but I really don't like the car and never thought it would take the time it did to do a simple brake job.
 
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