Ok guys, I’m looking at deleting the VRO system and going to straight pre mix. I looked online and it seems the consensus is, simply plug the oil feed line and unplug some wires. Is this what the gurus would suggest??? Or does the entire unit need to be removed ect.? What say you?
2000 Johnson VRO delete
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HST4ME
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No, just replace the pulse limiter with a hose barb. The rest of it bolts into the old vro bracket.
HST4ME
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yep
Ultra...Good
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50/1 is perfect unless you are going to spin it at some high rpm's for extended periods of time.
Your enrichener solenoid - circuit should be fine if there was no problems with it before.
Keep the pulse line to the pump as short as possible. The more volume there is, the longer it takes for that cylinder to go from vacuum to pressure which takes a little performance away from it and also throws it more off balance from other cylinders.
Your enrichener solenoid - circuit should be fine if there was no problems with it before.
Keep the pulse line to the pump as short as possible. The more volume there is, the longer it takes for that cylinder to go from vacuum to pressure which takes a little performance away from it and also throws it more off balance from other cylinders.
HST4ME
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And don't use tygon for the pulse line. Find some gates fuel injection hose.
Matt Mead
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That's the same double pumper I'm running on my 1987 Evinrude 175 crossflow. I have to say it's working like a freaking champ.
I ran all new line everywhere, and to be honest it was a challenge. I used Trident 305 B1-15 https://www.defender.com/product.js...-fuel-hose&path=-1|2243574|2243581&id=3386061 . It was interesting trying to route for a whole new system without the factory designed bent and curved fuel hoses. With just straight hose you have to make sure your cuts are exactly the right length so nothing kinks, etc.
As mentioned, make sure the pulse line is reinforced, so it doesn't collapse on itself. To be honest, though, mine is slightly collapsed due to the challenging bend it must take, but definitely flows enough to work. In my instructions it says to remove the pulse limiter at the block and replace it with a straight hose barb which was included. I found those instructions incorrect for my application, because OMC decided to put a standalone pulse limiter halfway between both barbs. So all I did was delete that limiter.
My bracket needed to be cut different than all the illustrated instructions I found, but no big deal after an hour with a dremel and air grinders.
50:1 is what I have been going with. I thought it was too much oil at first, but I had other issues and now it barely smokes at all with squeaky clean rebuilt carbs and lots of other issues sorted out. For reference I used to run 32:1 in my motorcycles and my kart I ran more (maybe 16:1 a few times, but it revved to over 16,000 RPM). More oil = more power according to some famous 2 stroke tuners, but there are drawbacks. Also more oil = leaner fuel ratio which sounds backwards at first, until you think about it, and you must jet accordingly. Most people don't want to re-jet their stock-ish outboard and it seems due to the way these particular motors were designed 50:1 is a great middle road for oil mix.
Lots of people defend the VRO system, but my system was insanely old and all falling apart. Many people just cap the oil inlet of the stock VRO pump and run it for a while, but I have a good reason to believe mine was sucking air in that config and who knows what condition the diaphrams and internals were in, so for sure going premix with an aftermarket pump was a great decision for me. Motor runs perfect now.
Hard to see what's going on, but here's mine after the install
I ran all new line everywhere, and to be honest it was a challenge. I used Trident 305 B1-15 https://www.defender.com/product.js...-fuel-hose&path=-1|2243574|2243581&id=3386061 . It was interesting trying to route for a whole new system without the factory designed bent and curved fuel hoses. With just straight hose you have to make sure your cuts are exactly the right length so nothing kinks, etc.
As mentioned, make sure the pulse line is reinforced, so it doesn't collapse on itself. To be honest, though, mine is slightly collapsed due to the challenging bend it must take, but definitely flows enough to work. In my instructions it says to remove the pulse limiter at the block and replace it with a straight hose barb which was included. I found those instructions incorrect for my application, because OMC decided to put a standalone pulse limiter halfway between both barbs. So all I did was delete that limiter.
My bracket needed to be cut different than all the illustrated instructions I found, but no big deal after an hour with a dremel and air grinders.
50:1 is what I have been going with. I thought it was too much oil at first, but I had other issues and now it barely smokes at all with squeaky clean rebuilt carbs and lots of other issues sorted out. For reference I used to run 32:1 in my motorcycles and my kart I ran more (maybe 16:1 a few times, but it revved to over 16,000 RPM). More oil = more power according to some famous 2 stroke tuners, but there are drawbacks. Also more oil = leaner fuel ratio which sounds backwards at first, until you think about it, and you must jet accordingly. Most people don't want to re-jet their stock-ish outboard and it seems due to the way these particular motors were designed 50:1 is a great middle road for oil mix.
Lots of people defend the VRO system, but my system was insanely old and all falling apart. Many people just cap the oil inlet of the stock VRO pump and run it for a while, but I have a good reason to believe mine was sucking air in that config and who knows what condition the diaphrams and internals were in, so for sure going premix with an aftermarket pump was a great decision for me. Motor runs perfect now.
Hard to see what's going on, but here's mine after the install
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