$2.5k repair bill for AC in 2003 Suburban

[traquer]

This normal or they trying to hustle me?

I read something on here actually I think a month or so ago, about how on these older cars with rear AC, it can get expensive if debris gets in and travels throughout the system?

They want to sell me 2 new evaporators, compressor and some other stuff.

Will call them later to see what's up but wanted to be somewhat halfway informed before I call them.

Thanks

 

[petie6464]

Take it to another shop and compare.

 

[BigRedBryan]

That is necessary if your old compressor came apart internally, but I doubt you need all of that stuff. Surprised they don't want to sell you a condenser and dryer too.

 

[traquer]

That is necessary if your old compressor came apart internally, but I doubt you need all of that stuff. Surprised they don't want to sell you a condenser and dryer too.

Thanks, I think that was on the list too lol. My dad was getting the texts since he dropped it off, will check.

 

[H20 Toie]

Yeah it gets crazy expensive to fix the old systems
But I have found big price differences in shops

 

[Racey]

I could see that if they had to tear into the rear interior to change the evaporators and lines etc.

Sucks a big one no doubt.

 

[rivermobster]

I could see that if they had to tear into the rear interior to change the evaporators and lines etc.

Sucks a big one no doubt.

This.

2500 all in for a dual ac system isn't that bad of a price if the compressor did come apart.

Gonna be a shit ton of labor to replace every component and flush out all of the lines.

Plus old systems take a LOT of freon.

Thinking about it, 2500 seems cheap!

 

[dribble]

As said. If you can go down there and they can you the metal in the condenser, then it’s a safe bet it’s everywhere else. I had to replace the entire system on my beater Saturn because there was metal plugging up the condenser from the compressor grenading. All I did was flush the evaporator because I didn't figure that much got by the expansion block. If I was working on a customer’s car I wouldn’t have done the job without an evaporator. That repair cost me 80 bucks in Parts from Pick N Pull and 20 bucks in refrigerant. 40K miles and still going strong.

 

[Havasu blue label]

Thanks, I think that was on the list too lol. My dad was getting the texts since he dropped it off, will check.

Are you in so cal

 

[traquer]

Are you in so cal

Texas

 

[Havasu blue label]

I paid 300 plus the recharge just rebuilt mine hard part is taking the panels 2007 Tahoe

 

[jetboatperformance]

As a warranty inspector we would require them to show/display the contamination to justify their diagnosis . Often times service advisor (commission sales) will declare a over repair necessary . You could actually get a qualified 3rd party expert to review the findings

 

[monkeyswrench]

If one of the other things is the rear AC lines, then it's not a bad price considering. I honestly don't know how you can flush those very well. They are a Holy nightmare to replace. They come out quick enough with dikes and a Sawzall...but the replacement is nowhere near as fun. On one of my friend's Suburbans, we switched the front lines set out with a pickup truck one, and did a redneck delete for the rear air. His wasn't a family hauler anymore, and it gave him front AC for cheap.

 

[TimeBandit]

The freon travels from the compressor and then to the Condenser and receiver/dryer... why replace evaporators and not the first things in line to get debris?

scratching my head. Would the Receiver/dryer not "catch" anything? maybe inspect the front expansion valve for debris next??

I would pull lines off compressor and check inside with a q-tip for any debris or "black death" first, then decide how far to go.

Flushing back towards the compressor into paper coffee filters to see how much if any debris is present before replacing anything.

Like @jetboatperformance said, show me!

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/421860690065168652/

 

[Icky]

Years ago my mom had a pt cruiser, someone quoted her to change her whole ac system out cause it was broken. My BIL changed a relay that was bad and it was fixed.

 

[monkeyswrench]

The freon travels from the compressor and then to the Condenser and receiver/dryer... why replace evaporators and not the first things in line to get debris?

scratching my head. I would pull lines off compressor and check inside with a q-tip for metal shavings first, then decide how far to go. Flushing into paper coffee filters to see how much if any debris is present before replacing anything.

Like @jetboatperformance said, show me!

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/421860690065168652/

Usually when a compressor explodes, I've been lucky and just replaced the condenser and the drier. The drier itself catches a lot of junk, even before catastrophic failure in most things.

 

[77charger]

Just did my 2500hd last month. I replaced compressor drier with oem and condenser with aftermarket. Bought a flush tool flushed evap core and lines.

Drier you change when apart an oem one is like 30 bucks oem compressor was about 250 I think. I spent about 450 in parts my compressor didn’t explode but I was this far in it I swapped condenser.

I had a shop vac and recharge for 120 bucks.

 

[Dalton]

They prob don’t want to take the dash out twice, just want to fix it once and be done with it

 

[jetboatperformance]

"Overrepair" is why our Mechanical damage inspection business exist after 30 years Hold their feet to the fire !

 

[Big B Hova]

My 99 single cab chevy just got compressor swapped and recharged for $950

 

[Sleek-Jet]

Seems about right. My rear AC has a leak in the evaporator. It isn't a huge job to change it, just a lot of hours involved to take everything apart. Parts are about $800.

 

[ka0tyk]

Did mine myself. New orifice tube, low sensor, dryer, condenser, compressor, hose and block, etc etc all gm/ac delco $500 ish? Just learn how to do it, it ain’t rocket science.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

Its not too hard to get to the rear evap on a suburban, its the lines that are the issue like was said before. If debris got past the receiver, then I would probably change the evaps, if not absolutely change the orifices. They are extremely small holes that plug very easily.

The front evap though..... thats a fun one! You have to take the entire dash and most of the center console out for it.

 

[hallett21]

Did mine myself. New orifice tube, low sensor, dryer, condenser, compressor, hose and block, etc etc all gm/ac delco $500 ish? Just learn how to do it, it ain’t rocket science.
View attachment 1249385 View attachment 1249383 View attachment 1249384

The hardest part is owning the gauges and vacuum pump

 

[TimeBandit]

The hardest part is owning the gauges and vacuum pump

With shop labor rates at $175.00 per hour you can buy gauges ($70.) and a vacuum pump ($165.) for less than 2 hours labor at Harbor Freight.

When you do the recharge get the R134a withOUT the "sealer" in it, just pure R134 is what you want.

Also make sure to add the proper amount of a/c oil if you replace the condenser, the new compressor will come with oil, the condenser won't.

 

[hallett21]

With shop labor rates at $175.00 per hour you can buy gauges ($70.) and a vacuum pump ($165.) for less than 2 hours labor at Harbor Freight.

When you do the recharge get the R134a withOUT the "sealer" in it, just pure R134 is what you want.

Also make sure to add the proper amount of a/c oil if you replace the condenser, the new compressor will come with oil, the condenser won't.

And I didn’t mean to say professionals are over charging. Because with overhead and the hopes of making a profit in CA they are not.

But if you’re savy you can definitely save a few bucks. And if you fry the system, then you get to pay double lol.

 

[rrrr]

This normal or they trying to hustle me?

I read something on here actually I think a month or so ago, about how on these older cars with rear AC, it can get expensive if debris gets in and travels throughout the system?

They want to sell me 2 new evaporators, compressor and some other stuff.

Will call them later to see what's up but wanted to be somewhat halfway informed before I call them.

Thanks

I got a quote for $3,400 to do the same work on my Excursion. I bought everything I need for $680.

So right now I'm repairing the system. The compressor shit the bed, and the debris was spread through all components. In 2014, the OEM compressor had a mechanical failure, and I had it replaced at the dealer. I have discovered it still had the original condenser and accumulator installed. The MF'ers charged me for those parts. I've driven the vehicle just 8,500 miles since that repair, so it's obvious they didn't flush the system, and that caused the compressor to fail.

I'm replacing the accumulator and condenser, and the expansion valve on the rear evaporator. Replacing the evaporators is just too much added work. I triple flushed the evaporators and the lines, using 2½ gallons of flushing solvent.

By scrounging around for parts, I was able to connect my big cylinder of nitrogen to my gauge set and the flush kit to clean out the system. The nitrogen is much better than using compressed air, even with a filter the air introduces debris and moisture into the system.

Today I hope to get everything buttoned up except the work on the rear evaporator.

Check out the flushing fluid used on the first pass of the main evaporator. It looks like I drained the coolant. The dipshits at the dealer must have put at least two cans of leak detection dye into the system.

The removed orfice tube, and the new one:

The flushing rig:

 

[77charger]

The hardest part is owning the gauges and vacuum pump

Lol true that’s why I took mine to a shop I spent 120 to have them do it. I would have spent more buying for a one time job.

Plus I don’t really know the right amount to put in as it varies.

 

[monkeyswrench]

Plus I don’t really know the right amount to put in as it varies.

If you have the gauges, you can find the pressures online for a given ambient temp. A lot of the crap I end up working on seems to be the automotive equivalent of "as built" stuff.

 

[77charger]

True but still need to vacuum system too. I’m good at a lot of things but Freon stuff probably not.

Luckily it’s an old school mechanic I trust. He only does foreign stuff he fixed my wife’s Nissan ac leaking seals. And sons lancer.so my neighbor who is good friends with him talked him into helping me out on my recharge.

Atleast with the flush gun I can use that on other shit if needed not just ac.

 

[rrrr]

This is a requirement for verifying a vacuum is in the 500 micron range. It'll also reveal the tiniest leaks.

 

[rrrr]

If you have the gauges, you can find the pressures online for a given ambient temp. A lot of the crap I end up working on seems to be the automotive equivalent of "as built" stuff.

When I charge automotive systems from a vacuum, I use my electronic scale. I think it's the best method to account for variations in ambient temperature and gauge set accuracy.

The capacity of the Excursion system is the largest I've worked on. It holds 4 lbs 4 oz of R134a and 14 oz of PAG 46 oil.

 

[PDQH2O]

Paid that 5 years ago for a complete front and rear system. Guess what? It now blows only cool air, not cold. With >225k, the Yukon XL is now old enough we’re ready to trade it in.

 

[Rajobigguy]

When I charge automotive systems from a vacuum, I use my electronic scale. I think it's the best method to account for variations in ambient temperature and gauge set accuracy.

The capacity of the Excursion system is the largest I've worked on. It holds 4 lbs 4 oz of R134a and 14 oz of PAG 46 oil.

Yep this is the most positive way and eliminates
Some of the other variables.

 

[aka619er]

Like others have said I learned to replace all components, flush the lines, vacuum and fill and after everything is costs way less than what you were quoted. Only issue is I have to do it to all our vehicles now.

 

[Shlbyntro]

Texas

@rrrr knows a guy

in TX too!

 

[eand28]

When the condenser and an ac line went in my truck I changed the parts myself and my neighbor who does home hvac helped me recharge it.

 

[monkeyswrench]

When I charge automotive systems from a vacuum, I use my electronic scale. I think it's the best method to account for variations in ambient temperature and gauge set accuracy.

The capacity of the Excursion system is the largest I've worked on. It holds 4 lbs 4 oz of R134a and 14 oz of PAG 46 oil.

My problems tend to stem from more..."creative" applications. Last year I did one that had a Jeep Cherokee condenser, a Ford Ranger evaporator and Chevy compressor. Doing the math, I could figure the volume of the lines in between, but after that, I was lost.

 

[rrrr]

My problems tend to stem from more..."creative" applications. Last year I did one that had a Jeep Cherokee condenser, a Ford Ranger evaporator and Chevy compressor. Doing the math, I could figure the volume of the lines in between, but after that, I was lost.

The condenser in my '66 Ford apparently came from a Peterbilt. It's huge. It also has a two cylinder York 201 compressor and an under dash evaporator. Blows cooold air.

 

[ka0tyk]

Lol true that’s why I took mine to a shop I spent 120 to have them do it. I would have spent more buying for a one time job.

Plus I don’t really know the right amount to put in as it varies.

Every car has a “capacity” usually in grams. As mentioned above use a gram scale and measure the amount that goes in. The can has a weight, it’s just easy math.

I don’t know how these shops can only charge $100 for a fill. The refrigerant itself is like $30-40. $60 an hour to have a shop, insurance, equipment, etc? They should charge more.

 

[Shlbyntro]

Every car has a “capacity” usually in grams. As mentioned above use a gram scale and measure the amount that goes in. The can has a weight, it’s just easy math.

I don’t know how these shops can only charge $100 for a fill. The refrigerant itself is like $30-40. $60 an hour to have a shop, insurance, equipment, etc? They should charge more.

that's the bait before they set the hook on a $2,500 repair bill. you're welcome

 

[77charger]

Every car has a “capacity” usually in grams. As mentioned above use a gram scale and measure the amount that goes in. The can has a weight, it’s just easy math.

I don’t know how these shops can only charge $100 for a fill. The refrigerant itself is like $30-40. $60 an hour to have a shop, insurance, equipment, etc? They should charge more.

Think he said 30 a pound forgot how much mine used think just a touch over 2 can’t remember. And he also vacuumed the system. (Was fresh parts do getting moisture out and see if it holds vacuum) he’s a good friend of neighbor and has worked on my sons and wife’s too. He spent probably 25 min total on my truck cash helps too.

I’ve said before I don’t trust many mechanics this guy I do. One local place on wife’s car added refrigerant said leak tested and was fine everything looked good etc. next day it ain’t working she goes back they now say compressor is shot etc big leak too. Our now mechanic takes look found bad seals replaced tested filled was about 375 bucks. We’re also in az

I was expecting to spend 1500 bucks or so to have my system fixed I knew compressor was leaking figured I’d tackle myself as my truck I can still work on.

 

[monkeyswrench]

The condenser in my '66 Ford apparently came from a Peterbilt. It's huge. It also has a two cylinder York 201 compressor and an under dash evaporator. Blows cooold air.

Those York 201's are bullet proof! In the 90's I was making adapter brackets to put them on mini trucks...air ride suspension with lots of cfm

 

[rrrr]

This.

2500 all in for a dual ac system isn't that bad of a price if the compressor did come apart.

Gonna be a shit ton of labor to replace every component and flush out all of the lines.

Plus old systems take a LOT of freon.

Thinking about it, 2500 seems cheap!

I'm on day three, and finding out there's a lot of work involved in my project. I'm gonna install the new compressor tomorrow. It's on the bottom of the engine, bolts hard to the block, and the line set attaches on the top rear of the compressor. I have to line it up on the hole between the block and the frame, bolt on the line set, push it back, engage the location pins into the block, and install the three 3" long bolts.

I should have removed the tire and inner fender to begin with, but didn't want to take apart more stuff. It's been fun.

Did you catch my earlier post saying I've used 2½ gallons of flushing solvent? Holy contamination, Batman.

 

[Rajobigguy]

The condenser in my '66 Ford apparently came from a Peterbilt. It's huge. It also has a two cylinder York 201 compressor and an under dash evaporator. Blows cooold air.

Is it a Falcon?? The reason I ask is because it sounds like a hodgepodge system I put together for my buddies car back in 70’s. It ended up being more like a refrigerated box car than an AC equipped car.

 

[rivermobster]

I'm on day three, and finding out there's a lot of work involved in my project. I'm gonna install the new compressor tomorrow. It's on the bottom of the engine, bolts hard to the block, and the line set attaches on the top rear of the compressor. I have to line it up on the hole between the block and the frame, bolt on the line set, push it back, engage the location pins into the block, and install the three 3" long bolts.

I should have removed the tire and inner fender to begin with, but didn't want to take apart more stuff. It's been fun.

Did you catch my earlier post saying I've used 2½ gallons of flushing solvent? Holy contamination, Batman.

No, I missed that.

I used brake cleaner to flush AC lines. It's designed to leave no residence behind. Works good

 

[rrrr]

Is it a Falcon?? The reason I ask is because it sounds like a hodgepodge system I put together for my buddies car back in 70’s. It ended up being more like a refrigerated box car than an AC equipped car.

It's an F100. The evaporator has a TXV, it grows ice when it's humid. I converted it to R134 around 2005. It's has the coldest discharge air temp of any R134 unit I've worked on.

 

[Eliminator21vdrive]

Not to be a dick but it's Refrigerant not FREON! lol

Freon - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org