1993 21’ Eliminator Daytona

[ONE-A-DAY]

Unhook the neural safety switch, putting an older outboard in and out of gear often shortens the lifespan, just start in gear. Take the key out when your not at the helm. Once the engine is warm just a blip with the ignition and it will fire.

Same reason most OB race boats don’t even have neutral or reverse, in gear all the time. At least it was that way on my SST 45 capsule boat

 

[ChrisV]

Unhook the neural safety switch, putting an older outboard in and out of gear often shortens the gearcase lifespan, just start in gear. Take the key out when your not at the helm. Once the engine is warm just a blip with the ignition and it will fire.

I was more curious on how it kills the gear case. I recently purchased a Promax 300 and do not want to replace the drive. hahah Did buy the shifter without neutral safety switch so I'm going in the right direction. Thanks!

 

[hallett21]

Same reason most OB race boats don’t even have neutral or reverse, in gear all the time. At least it was that way on my SST 45 capsule boat

Pretty sure that’s the only way the F1 boats can run such a small gearcase


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[Flying_Lavey]

Unhook the neural safety switch, putting an older outboard in and out of gear often shortens the gearcase lifespan, just start in gear. Take the key out when your not at the helm. Once the engine is warm just a blip with the ignition and it will fire.

I get the logic, but I know of qt least one 35 year old 200 that has never been babies in that way and has never had to have the LU rebuilt.....

I could see that on the Hi-Po 2.4/2.5's but the fishing motors seem to handle shifting while running just fine.

I lost forward in mine, but that was due to operator error (accidentally shifting it into reverse at about 2k).

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[HST4ME]

It's broke have someone fix it. And yes start in gear.

 

[jmaxwell279]

So found another Lower Unit with a Bobs nose cone on it. Had it pulled apart and found some issues, seals are bad, crack at carrier bushing and a bent shift shaft. It’s getting new parts put in it and hopefully it should be good to go.

Some pictures when it was pulled apart.

In the meantime I had my buddy RDC Detailing color sand and cut/buff the gel as well as wrap the windshield gloss black to hide the spider webbing from the age.

She looks a lot better.

Also cleaned out the speedo pickup at the transom so maybe it will work again. Previous owner said it was prone to clogging up with debris.


More updates soon !


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[ChrisV]

Very nice. Who is doing the service wok on the drive?

 

[Duramax]

Great work! Looks beautiful!!

 

[jmaxwell279]

Great work! Looks beautiful!!

Thanks man. Can’t wait to get some shots of her on the water.


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[Water Romper]

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Your in AZ correct?

 

[lake p.a.l.]

Looks great

 

[Water Romper]

Been following your thread- Really like your Eliminator, for what ever reason, the gel colors work for me, a bit of old school with class. Bet its a hoot to drive too.

So what the latest regarding your lower? I am in the same "boat" (haha, had to say it) I have basically the same problem, lower unit issues and anything to do with gear clusters, bearings, "dog" clutches etc- I'm out, way over my head. My solution will most likely buy a new lower from SEI (a suggestion from a fellow RDP'er) $1,000 gets new EVERYTHING, casing, drive shaft, impeller, prop shaft, all the gears, seals and lord knows what else. Only thing I do is install the lower , put on my prop, fill gear oil, follow the break in instructions and I am off an running. The cool thing is the warranty, 3 years even if I hilt a rock.

I found the gears and clutch dog was going to cost around $500 alone so for the additional funds, it adds peace of mind. Maybe if I were a bit more mechanically inclined, I would go a DIY route but I'm at the mercy of the pro's.

Cant wait to see your boat in the water!

 

[jmaxwell279]

Your in AZ correct?

San Diego CA


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[jmaxwell279]

Looks great

Thanks !


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[jmaxwell279]

Been following your thread- Really like your Eliminator, for what ever reason, the gel colors work for me, a bit of old school with class. Bet its a hoot to drive too.

So what the latest regarding your lower? I am in the same "boat" (haha, had to say it) I have basically the same problem, lower unit issues and anything to do with gear clusters, bearings, "dog" clutches etc- I'm out, way over my head. My solution will most likely buy a new lower from SEI (a suggestion from a fellow RDP'er) $1,000 gets new EVERYTHING, casing, drive shaft, impeller, prop shaft, all the gears, seals and lord knows what else. Only thing I do is install the lower , put on my prop, fill gear oil, follow the break in instructions and I am off an running. The cool thing is the warranty, 3 years even if I hilt a rock.

I found the gears and clutch dog was going to cost around $500 alone so for the additional funds, it adds peace of mind. Maybe if I were a bit more mechanically inclined, I would go a DIY route but I'm at the mercy of the pro's.

Cant wait to see your boat in the water!

Thanks ! I don’t see that as a bad plan per say I just believe the OEM stuff is better… the warranty may be the deal maker in that case.


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[Water Romper]

OEM Merc built would be the better way to go but there is a $3000 difference with a less warranty. I've read pros and cons about SEI, knowing they sell thousands a year and the complaints are in a low % rate, they get the nod, i guess years ago they had an issue with sheering off prop shafts and sure, they replace the lower but you loose your $500.00 stainless prop, I'm thinking they may have addressed the issue. Anyway, post more picks of your Elim

 

[jmaxwell279]

Well… put it back together after doing Seals, new water pump / impeller, new shift shaft and new carrier bearing. Also Changed both fuel filters at motor and at transom. And swapped the 4.5” bolts at the setback plate to 5” so the nut is actually holding some threads… Some people shouldn’t be mechanics. ( I think I said this before lol)

Also picked up a transom saver.

Ran on the hose and seemed to be doing well. Dropped in water Saturday morning at the lower river for the Fishers horseshoe tourney and had a bitchin day.

At the end of the day though parked at a friends beach and when we went to pull out had no reverse… trimmed motor up and the retainer nut had spun off allowing the carrier and reverse gear to push out. Luckily we were in the marina and able to swim the boat back to the launch ramp to pull it out.

My assumption is there must have been a way for the nut to hop past threads as they don’t look to be stripped and there is a retaining lock tab washer that holds it in place. Very puzzling.

Lower has been removed and is going back to the guy that put it together so he can inspect it.

Now some pictures!

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[ChrisV]

badass. Beautiful float

 

[jmaxwell279]

badass. Beautiful float [emoji106]

Thank you!

Definitely time to retire the well used Bimini and get a new one made though!


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[ChrisV]

Thank you!

Definitely time to retire the well used Bimini and get a new one made though!


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yeah be careful with that. My friends bimini strapped broke, folded back at 80 and almost took out another friends arm.

 

[Duramax]

Nordic made ours! Low profile and it's rock solid.

 

[HST4ME]

Well… put it back together after doing Seals, new water pump / impeller, new shift shaft and new carrier bearing. Also Changed both fuel filters at motor and at transom. And swapped the 4.5” bolts at the setback plate to 5” so the nut is actually holding some threads… Some people shouldn’t be mechanics. ( I think I said this before lol)

View attachment 1036023


Also picked up a transom saver.

View attachment 1036024

Ran on the hose and seemed to be doing well. Dropped in water Saturday morning at the lower river for the Fishers horseshoe tourney and had a bitchin day.

At the end of the day though parked at a friends beach and when we went to pull out had no reverse… trimmed motor up and the retainer nut had spun off allowing the carrier and reverse gear to push out. Luckily we were in the marina and able to swim the boat back to the launch ramp to pull it out.

My assumption is there must have been a way for the nut to hop past threads as they don’t look to be stripped and there is a retaining lock tab washer that holds it in place. Very puzzling.

Lower has been removed and is going back to the guy that put it together so he can inspect it.

Now some pictures!

View attachment 1036022


View attachment 1036025
View attachment 1036026
View attachment 1036027

View attachment 1036029


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Your probably going to need a new housing and have the thicker carrier nut from a sporty/cle installed.

 

[jmaxwell279]

Few pics my buddy sent me from last trip.

Chased the threads and installed a new carrier nut torqued to spec, pressure tested and back together. Plan is to have her out on the water for Labor Day.


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[Duramax]

Few pics my buddy sent me from last trip.
View attachment 1041733
View attachment 1041734
View attachment 1041736
View attachment 1041737

Chased the threads and installed a new carrier nut torqued to spec, pressure tested and back together. Plan is to have her out on the water for Labor Day.


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Fanatastic man!! Looks great! How does it do with a boat full of people? The engine cover is throwing me off, what are you running? Oh, I went back, 200.

 

[jmaxwell279]

Fanatastic man!! Looks great! How does it do with a boat full of people? The engine cover is throwing me off, what are you running?

Thanks! Surprisingly well. In those pics we were doing 55-60 down river at about 4500 rpm.

It’s a ‘98 mercury 200 efi. I picked up the cover that’s on it for cheap and threw it on because it was in better shape then the one I had.


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[stoker2001]

Few pics my buddy sent me from last trip.
View attachment 1041733
View attachment 1041734
View attachment 1041736
View attachment 1041737

Chased the threads and installed a new carrier nut torqued to spec, pressure tested and back together. Plan is to have her out on the water for Labor Day.


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best of luck..only way that carrier nut can back out is
1. bendable locking tab/retainer failed or wasn't properly bent/locked in place
2.someone left TINY square stock/keyway out
3.machined area for keyway on case stripped
torque on spanner/carrier nut is 250lbs or tight as you can get it with heavy duty breaker bar and pipe extension while aligning lock tab

 

[HST4ME]

Once the carrier has any side play in the bore the housing is junk and needs to be repaired or replaced. Same if the carrier nut pops out.

 

[jmaxwell279]

best of luck..only way that carrier nut can back out is
1. bendable locking tab/retainer failed or wasn't properly bent/locked in place
2.someone left TINY square stock/keyway out
3.machined area for keyway on case stripped
torque on spanner/carrier nut is 250lbs or tight as you can get it with heavy duty breaker bar and pipe extension while aligning lock tab

Thanks we shall see.

We machined a new key for the keyway that was slightly larger than the previous. This seemed to take all the play out of it.

Spanner carrier is torqued to 210 and locking tab is in place.

We shall see. I believe the play/wear in the key led to the issues.


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[c_land]

Dude, you need this engine, its even your colors already!

Love the boat. @jmaxwell279

 

[jmaxwell279]

Dude, you need this engine, its even your colors already!

View attachment 1042372
Love the boat. @jmaxwell279

My buddy actually tagged me in that. I dig it. When the time comes I’d like to put a 3.2 L Optimax on it.


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[jmaxwell279]

Few photos from yesterday’s shakedown.


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[Duramax]

That's awesome! We had ours loaded down this weekend with a full boat of people, kind of like you had your last pics. Boat ran great, but after a long run, I had a bogging issue. Shut it down, went for a swim, and all good. I am certain it is a fuel tank venting issue. All I have is a tiny vent hole in each fuel cap. I am going to add another vent line, as the tank has a threaded nipple up front but its plugged.
Do you have separate vents? I have learned the 21 Daytonas are all different.

 

[jmaxwell279]

That's awesome! We had ours loaded down this weekend with a full boat of people, kind of like you had your last pics. Boat ran great, but after a long run, I had a bogging issue. Shut it down, went for a swim, and all good. I am certain it is a fuel tank venting issue. All I have is a tiny vent hole in each fuel cap. I am going to add another vent line, as the tank has a threaded nipple up front but its plugged.
Do you have separate vents? I have learned the 21 Daytonas are all different.

Yessir. Each tank has its own vent.

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[Duramax]

Yessir. Each tank has its own vent line I’d guess -8 line.


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See, that's my issue. I have the big Weldon drag pumps with my 260 Drag/offshores, with one tiny little vent in the cap!!!?? Dammit!!

Were is the vent mounted on your deck?

 

[jmaxwell279]

See, that's my issue. I have the big Weldon drag pumps with my 260 Drag/offshores, with one tiny little vent in the cap!!!?? Dammit!!

Were is the vent mounted on your deck?

Edit. I just looked and it appears the tanks are just vented with a check valve on top of the tank.


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[Duramax]

Edit. I just looked and it appears the tanks are just vented with a check valve on top of the tank.


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Could you post a picture or send me a DM. Sorry to muddy up your thread!

 

[jmaxwell279]

Could you post a picture or send me a DM. Sorry to muddy up your thread!

If you go to the very beginning of my thread there’s some pics when I had the interior out. I don’t have it pulled apart right now otherwise I’d take some for ya.


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[stoker2001]

See, that's my issue. I have the big Weldon drag pumps with my 260 Drag/offshores, with one tiny little vent in the cap!!!?? Dammit!!

Were is the vent mounted on your deck?

yes,you need a dedicated vent other then just cap..do you run water separator (cannister type) and tell me the return fuel line doesn't got to it?if you do,i would shitcan that and run return line to tank or possibly to the filler hose neck.get you an inline 100 micron billet filter (type that has cleanable screen) before pump to keep trash out of it.then use 10 micron inline after pump.the 10 micron can be the throwaway thin tin steel type that is used in auto applications

 

[jmaxwell279]

yes,you need a dedicated vent other then just cap..do you run water separator (cannister type) and tell me the return fuel line doesn't got to it?if you do,i would shitcan that and run return line to tank or possibly to the filler hose neck.get you an inline 100 micron billet filter (type that has cleanable screen) before pump to keep trash out of it.then use 10 micron inline after pump.the 10 micron can be the throwaway thin tin steel type that is used in auto applications

This is essentially how I have my off-road truck plumbed.


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[Duramax]

yes,you need a dedicated vent other then just cap..do you run water separator (cannister type) and tell me the return fuel line doesn't got to it?if you do,i would shitcan that and run return line to tank or possibly to the filler hose neck.get you an inline 100 micron billet filter (type that has cleanable screen) before pump to keep trash out of it.then use 10 micron inline after pump.the 10 micron can be the throwaway thin tin steel type that is used in auto applications

Return line to tank, yes - billet filter with cleanable screen, yes

Vent line, NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! Thanks guys for the help. This boat was never run enough to figure it out.

 

[Duramax]

Why do you not like it plumbed into the water separator?

It looks like your check valve is mounted on the tank? Any specific size check valve? Mine has a plug right there were yours has the valve.

 

[stoker2001]

Why do you not like it plumbed into the water separator?

.

NEVER run return fuel line to separator!I have seen it done that way cause peeps don't have extra fitting/bung on tank..it introduces air bubbles to main supply line..plumb a fitting to filler-neck hose is ok
It gets complicated if you have twin tanks with a return line....that's another reason why peeps make mistake of returning fuel to water separator..NOT GOOD ON 260/280/300 hotrod 2 smokes!!!

 

[Duramax]

NEVER run return fuel line to separator!I have seen it done that way cause peeps don't have extra fitting/bung on tank..it introduces air bubbles to main supply line..plumb a fitting to filler-neck hose is ok
It gets complicated if you have twin tanks with a return line....that's another reason why peeps make mistake of returning fuel to water separator..NOT GOOD ON 260/280/300 hotrod 2 smokes!!!

I don't want to run another vent up and drill into my deck. Is there a vacuum valve that I can put on my other fitting? If I put just a vent on it I'm afraid that my cockpit will smell like fuel. What do you recommend? Does a "one way check valve" just effect vacuum relief or pressure relief?

 

[stoker2001]

I don't want to run another vent up and drill into my deck. Is there a vacuum valve that I can put on my other fitting? If I put just a vent on it I'm afraid that my cockpit will smell like fuel. What do you recommend? Does a "one way check valve" just effect vacuum relief or pressure relief?

are we talking vent/vapor lines or return lines from fuel pressure regulator?IMO certain fuel caps that are vented DO NOT provide enough venting which causes two problems..one is when fueling with pump nozzles that seal for vapor recovery,it will be trying to spit fuel back at you..second prob is it can create vacumm in tank when running at full throttle which can cause pump to struggle and possibly loose its prime..remember,these electric pumps push fuel great and struggle to pull fuel.ideally you want a bottom sump outlet on tank that is flooding input side of pump with as little restriction as possible..also never mount pump above elevation of tank..with that said Weldon pumps are superior to any others when it comes to pulling fuel..Love my noisy/amp sucking #2015 Weldon!

 

[Duramax]

are we talking vent/vapor lines or return lines from fuel pressure regulator?IMO certain fuel caps that are vented DO NOT provide enough venting which causes two problems..one is when fueling with pump nozzles that seal for vapor recovery,it will be trying to spit fuel back at you..second prob is it can create vacumm in tank when running at full throttle which can cause pump to struggle and possibly loose its prime..remember,these electric pumps push fuel great and struggle to pull fuel.ideally you want a bottom sump outlet on tank that is flooding input side of pump with as little restriction as possible..also never mount pump above elevation of tank..with that said Weldon pumps are superior to any others when it comes to pulling fuel..Love my noisy/amp sucking #2015 Weldon!

I am talking about my fuel tank. All I have is just my gas cap for a vent. I need to vent the tank more, and there is a threaded nipple on the front of the tanks that are plugged now. I want to use that as a vent, BUT, I do not want to run a hose up to the deck and drill a hole. All I need is to relieve vacuum in my tank, air goes in, but not out, so I don't smell gas in my cockpit. A vacuum relief valve, correct? Air in, not out!

 

[stoker2001]

I am talking about my fuel tank. All I have is just my gas cap for a vent. I need to vent the tank more, and there is a threaded nipple on the front of the tanks that are plugged now. I want to use that as a vent, BUT, I do not want to run a hose up to the deck and drill a hole. All I need is to relieve vacuum in my tank, air goes in, but not out, so I don't smell gas in my cockpit. A vacuum relief valve, correct? Air in, not out!

take one of those chrome vents and instead of drilling hole for it,plumb a hose with some elevation above tank and zip tie it to hose-cluster (fuel,throtle,shift) going to motor that is in open air.might look silly,but functional

 

[Duramax]

take one of those chrome vents and instead of drilling hole for it,plumb a hose with some elevation above tank and zip tie it to hose-cluster (fuel,throtle,shift) going to motor that is in open air.might look silly,but functional

Won't that smell up my interior? Is there such thing as a one way vacuum valve? Lets are in but not out?

I was going to do exactly what you said, lol

 

[ChrisV]

I am talking about my fuel tank. All I have is just my gas cap for a vent. I need to vent the tank more, and there is a threaded nipple on the front of the tanks that are plugged now. I want to use that as a vent, BUT, I do not want to run a hose up to the deck and drill a hole. All I need is to relieve vacuum in my tank, air goes in, but not out, so I don't smell gas in my cockpit. A vacuum relief valve, correct? Air in, not out!

run a line from the tank and loop it couple times with a small filter.

 

[stoker2001]

Won't that smell up my interior?

I was going to do exactly what you said, lol

the hose/vent will terminate at shifter/throttle cables (right befor they go into cowling)..NO smell to interior..zip tye and call it good

 

[jmaxwell279]

Labor Day Weekend’21

Spent the weekend running the rig up and down the lower river.

Nothing but good times including our 6 hour float on Sunday.

Here’s some pictures.

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