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08’ DCB F26

02HoWaRd26

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Can you add the dump to the exhaust (under the hatch?
Hmm never seen it done that way, or even to T it into the crossover tube. But i think most do separate as to be able to verify it is pumping. But I’ll be looking into that idea. Cut the tube off the plate, and then weld in at an angle to go with the water flow would be trick.
 

Tony DCB Boats

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So when i did the blower i really didn’t want to add any holes to the boat so we T’d the two outer sponson bilge drains together and then used the rear hole for the intercooler. It looks dope, but cannot start on hose in garage as it’s a squirt gun, and the water spots if i don’t clean ever stop get bad. So i ordered a new TCM stainless flush drain and have all my hardware polished and ready to roll. But…… now to decide where to put it is the hard part. The engine uses a pickup tube so the lower unit lwp solely runs water to the top of the drive cap/shower, so the water there would be more but not necessary. So I’m thinking under or next to the exhaust. I know @Tony DCB Boats does it under, but it’s almost like a bov tube for a turbo buggy lol.
Any input would be great. View attachment 1123069 View attachment 1123070 View attachment 1123071 View attachment 1123072 View attachment 1123077 View attachment 1123074
Are you adding an external water pick-up? Is this dump for the Strainer blow-off? On a single application, it is sometime utilized best above the transom assy. This is both aesthetically nice and provides another way to cool the top of the drive. We run a dump on the twins below the exhaust for many reasons but on the one pictured, it has one on each side. One for the inner-cooler dump and the other side for the Strainer blow-off.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Are you adding an external water pick-up? Is this dump for the Strainer blow-off? On a single application, it is sometime utilized best above the transom assy. This is both aesthetically nice and provides another way to cool the top of the drive. We run a dump on the twins below the exhaust for many reasons but on the one pictured, it has one on each side. One for the inner-cooler dump and the other side for the Strainer blow-off.
No this is solely for the intercooler dump. The lwp on the nose cone solely feeds the drive cap/shower
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I do not have a strainer blow off, curious if maybe i should, however at wot I’m only seeing 24-27psi. Maybe I’ll do two singles each on the sides of the tails. As the exhaust is way above the water line at idle.
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Tony DCB Boats

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No this is solely for the intercooler dump. The lwp on the nose cone solely feeds the drive cap/shower View attachment 1123340

I do not have a strainer blow off, curious if maybe i should, however at wot I’m only seeing 24-27psi. Maybe I’ll do two singles each on the sides of the tails. As the exhaust is way above the water line at idle.
View attachment 1123341
Your WP is fine and if you're adding the single dump I would put it above the transom and it will look the best and give you a little added cooling to your drive, which never hurts.
 

Orangegazm

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Damn... Ive been out for awhile trying to get my junk finished. You have done a ton of stuff, detail stuff that only OCD people will ever see. Some people will never appreciate the little stuff but thats the stuff I live for. Congrats.... so much work goes into the details and your killing it !!!!
 

02HoWaRd26

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Damn... Ive been out for awhile trying to get my junk finished. You have done a ton of stuff, detail stuff that only OCD people will ever see. Some people will never appreciate the little stuff but thats the stuff I live for. Congrats.... so much work goes into the details and your killing it !!!!
Thanks now get off the fucking internet and get yours back on the water. Cannot wait to see the new psi wait new power adder’S lol.


Or just Procharge that Hemi that’s what all the cool kids are doing lol
 

02HoWaRd26

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Time to pull my hair out now!
Was going to be perfect but….. i need 4” before the cables attach and they’re a hard connection so probably closer to 5.5” but!!!!!
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Nothing is ever easy. One more idea once that actual com arrives. At least it only took about an hour to pull the com out of the buggy!!
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02HoWaRd26

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Time to pull my hair out now!
Was going to be perfect but….. i need 4” before the cables attach and they’re a hard connection so probably closer to 5.5” but!!!!!
View attachment 1125050
Nothing is ever easy. One more idea once that actual com arrives. At least it only took about an hour to pull the com out of the buggy!!
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Always a way….
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02HoWaRd26

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Got the wrong headsets the correct ones will be here Monday, but the buggy ones did the job to test everything out.
All worked out as planned also, remove the headsets and the system is completely invisible, got there headset bag as well to store them when not in use. A lot of money and a lot of time, but I’m stoked can’t wait to go run the boat in silence now lol.
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Riverryder

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So you spent all that money on speakers recently only to add headsets so you can’t hear them? Or they only for channel/3 dune battles?
Haha jk sick! Talking while running sounds amazing!
 

02HoWaRd26

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So when i did the blower i really didn’t want to add any holes to the boat so we T’d the two outer sponson bilge drains together and then used the rear hole for the intercooler. It looks dope, but cannot start on hose in garage as it’s a squirt gun, and the water spots if i don’t clean ever stop get bad. So i ordered a new TCM stainless flush drain and have all my hardware polished and ready to roll. But…… now to decide where to put it is the hard part. The engine uses a pickup tube so the lower unit lwp solely runs water to the top of the drive cap/shower, so the water there would be more but not necessary. So I’m thinking under or next to the exhaust. I know @Tony DCB Boats does it under, but it’s almost like a bov tube for a turbo buggy lol.
Any input would be great. View attachment 1123069 View attachment 1123070 View attachment 1123071 View attachment 1123072 View attachment 1123077 View attachment 1123074
Well to the inner side of the tailpipe was really where i wanted it, but that would’ve included moving some wiring and well it’s got 5 P clamps and so perfect i decided against that location and went under the tail, pretty happy with the outcome. Will get better photos when i pull her out of the garage. May be a while tho due to some personal issues but hopefully still get to use it a little this season.
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Also, took a bit of time to get from Gatorstep, but totally not the fault of the guys at Detail Specialties. They were awesome from the time of order till they stuck it on today for me. Matches the bow pad perfect.
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02HoWaRd26

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Somehow missed updates to this thread over the last five weeks.

The intercom install is very clean as expected. At this point in ownership, how many times have you disassembled the interior?
Twice for the interior to completely come out. It’s not an easy task either. They utilized a lot of typically dead space to offer such a large open cockpit.
 

02HoWaRd26

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So you spent all that money on speakers recently only to add headsets so you can’t hear them? Or they only for channel/3 dune battles?
Haha jk sick! Talking while running sounds amazing!
No my system rips but it’s mostly inside the boat because of speaker locations. But you can hear it at any speed. I wanted the intercom to be able to chat on the longer runs, like down to and back from Havasu as well the damn dam run. I have mouse ears can hear a pin drop next door, so it’ll also be nice to be able to turn the exhaust down with the squelch lol.
 

02HoWaRd26

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So i guess it’s time to get away from the oil bath. On my trip to KS lost a hub/oil cap, so i just stuck a grease cap on and let it ride. Lazy me i should’ve done it all when i serviced the left side of the trailer but……. anyway got all the parts to replace everything as well got the crack on the bracket welded.
Sure would’ve been cheaper to do before, had to buy trailing arm and hub with all the guts 🤦🏼
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02HoWaRd26

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Peter, @02HoWaRd26 why was the boost gauge not installed at Pro Charge when they did the instalation?
Because ProCharger isn’t actually an install shop, nor would that have been a job for them. Just like the drain for the intercooler, that was on me, they utilized an already available hole but wasn’t the one it was to stay in anyway.
 

50onRED

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I don’t have a lot of plans as of yet, this boat is fully loaded but i really cannot leave anything alone and really enjoyed rereading stuff i did on the Orion so figure wtf let’s start this off right away.


2019 Desert Storm! Rolling through the channel, “that will be our next boat” her reply haha ok.
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My buddy sent me the link to the Craigslist ad, had been listed for 25 minutes when i first talked to the guy. Everything sounded good, so i sent the link to the wife, her reply was “buy it, or I’ll divorce you”. Well that’s what we did. I want to name the boat “Cheap’r 2 Keep’r” because of that, but for some reason the wife hates that idea.
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Night we picked her up. View attachment 913746 View attachment 913747
Very nice!
 

SkiDoc

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Like the gator step! I was trying to figure out what to do with mine as it needs either reanonodized or powder coated. Boat looks great and I enjoy following your upgrades.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Like the gator step! I was trying to figure out what to do with mine as it needs either reanonodized or powder coated. Boat looks great and I enjoy following your upgrades.
I actually had mine stripped and powder coated before doing the Gator 🐊 Step just so it’d look perfect. We’re stripping the ass this fall and having all powdered same color. Bunch of interior parts as well. The clear ano has done well but it’s 13 years old now.
 
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02HoWaRd26

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Had everything to do the under bow lights for a while now, was bored and was only 95° today so decided to go play in the garage.
Measure 12 times drill once. Drilled the hole for the wiring, then drilled the bolt holes to be able to tap the fiberglass.
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Test fit then duplicate to other side.
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Then removed cleaned the lines, black sharpie doesn’t like to come off white gel 😡 took forever.
Then slid the wires in put 3M 4200 on the end of wire as well a little on the Rigid housing and then final bolt on. Wiring was easy as i had previously ran wires up there for this project.
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RichL

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Was there a reason you didn't do your layout on masking or painter's tape or just an oversight?

Final result looks great.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Was there a reason you didn't do your layout on masking or painter's tape or just an oversight?

Final result looks great.
Yea because i wanted to be able to see everything, as i had to use the upper radius etc. with the boat being on the trailer it just wasn’t right. I actually had it taped two or three times but trying to get it to where the top of the light laid directly against the top of the radius of the tunnel.
 

mattyc

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Had everything to do the under bow lights for a while now, was bored and was only 95° today so decided to go play in the garage.
Measure 12 times drill once. Drilled the hole for the wiring, then drilled the bolt holes to be able to tap the fiberglass.
View attachment 1160247
Test fit then duplicate to other side. View attachment 1160248
Then removed cleaned the lines, black sharpie doesn’t like to come off white gel 😡 took forever.
Then slid the wires in put 3M 4200 on the end of wire as well a little on the Rigid housing and then final bolt on. Wiring was easy as i had previously ran wires up there for this project. View attachment 1160249 View attachment 1160250 View attachment 1160251 View attachment 1160252
Gettin lit! Ready to practice your night moves
 

n2otoofast4u

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We’ll be out the next two days for the Regatta. We only did about 60 hours and 28 times out on the water this year lol.
Childs play! Common man!

We have 150 on the wake boat, and I honestly have no clue on the cruiser, probably another 100. And that’s up here in the ol PNW!

Totally busting your balls! The Spectre has had 2 hours put on it in the last 12 months. I need to kick my own ass! Hell, we came down for DS, never put the boat in the water, and had the best DS trip ever.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Regatta was a good time, they surely pack it all in for a couple of days. But wasn’t without some issues for us.
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Launched at about 12 on Thursday, wife took truck to LBR so the boy and i took boat there to meet her, as soon as we pulled away from the dock with mama, boat started acting real goofy then died.
Screwed around with it for about 30 minutes then had to swim her to the shore. Had come to the conclusion it was a fuel issue, called AJ at Barrett, he told me where the fuel rail bleeder was at, no possible way I’d have found on my own out there. Bled the air then fired up sounded great, didn’t think that it just “happened” but figured wtf let’s go. Get to Thompson Bay and it does it again, bled it fired right up but wife said no back to the slip we went.
Made her take the helm for drive in and played back there and came to realize it was that one pump was bad and was somehow aerating the fuel sump tank. Called Deatsch Werks they said their pump or a Bosch 044, well none in town. So bought two -8 caps instead.
Friday morning capped that pump as well the one side of the Y into the regulator. Did a lot of research the night before and felt as long as we stayed out of boost it’d be plenty to fuel the boat to pirates and back.
To say the least we were way in back on the way up there, but we made it there and back. We stopped just north of the sandbar on way back to havasu and wife shot pics of a lot of the DCB’s headed down river. Hope to be able to get them watermarked then she will let me share some.

Here’s @Tony DCB Boats in the grey M37 playing with another M37.

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02HoWaRd26

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So the DCB regatta was almost a bust for us, we launched about 1100 Thursday, left trailer at ramp and wife drove the the LBR, so boy and i took boat from marina over there idled great no issue whatsoever. Got her from the dock at LBR started heading south and all of a sudden the boat started sputtering and died. Went through everything i could figure and was certain it was a fuel issue.
One of the two pump’s decided to basically give up on me, but was still sounding like it was working, still not sure the exacts but was pumping air into the fuel rails, before anyone asks the two pumps are inside a 3.5L surge tank with no baffles etc if one has fuel both have ability to have fuel. So after a few hours of trying to get it all figured i was able to pull fuse bleed the air from the rails and get to the dock. Ran to Praxair and got some caps and capped the one pump as well the Y to be sure it couldn’t aerate the system. Leaving us on a single pump still said to be good to 750hp but i was scared to run her up much, made to and from Pirates on Friday keeping her out of Boost and under 4000rpm then to the trailer.

Now for the redo fuel system take three, and we’ll some more polishing powder coating and small upgrades/updates.

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All the parts are in and hopefully have time to get done this week, but have some much more pressing things to take care of as well.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Was never Happy with the fuel system routing, i felt i made it look better than how i got back from PC’s development team, but still was ugly. While apart i spent a bunch of time pondering and ultimately wasting a ton of money on fittings till i came up with this. Then i had to wait for two more pieces to make it just right. I’m happy now.
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Dcb.blake

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Was never Happy with the fuel system routing, i felt i made it look better than how i got back from PC’s development team, but still was ugly. While apart i spent a bunch of time pondering and ultimately wasting a ton of money on fittings till i came up with this. Then i had to wait for two more pieces to make it just right. I’m happy now.
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Much cleaner, looks like you’ll be a fuel system pro now! 😆
 

02HoWaRd26

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Issue with crankcase vent, filter in the valve cover, no one makes one that fits the Mercury Racing valve cover tho, found an LS3 one that was close so i made a adapter to chuck it on my drill press, and just used my file to cut it down 0.15” then had to file a little off the tabs in the valve cover as well, i need a mill and lathe one day…… but it locks in there right and perfect.
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