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“Julious”- 2023 Polaris Turbo R 4

Outdrive1

Outdrive1

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Just do 33’s imo. My neighbor did 35’s and a clutch, and lost a lot of performance. Too much tire for the Turbo, the Pro has no problem running 35’s
 
Hammer

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LargeOrangeFont said:
You will want a clutch kit for sure. You throwing 33”s on? Or 35”s?
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Part of me wants 35's but I don't think I "need them", but to me the car looks better. I was reading that people are doing gear reduction set ups for 35's. I think thats for east coast rock crawling. I don't want to have to go through all that. I have a hunch that the clutch or belt already slips. It felt like the RPM's climb quick mid range but the car doesn't go anywhere for a minute then starts pulling. It's possible the tires are spinning. But I don't think so..
 
LargeOrangeFont

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Hammer said:
Part of me wants 35's but I don't think I "need them", but to me the car looks better. I was reading that people are doing gear reduction set ups for 35's. I think thats for east coast rock crawling. I don't want to have to go through all that. I have a hunch that the clutch or belt already slips. It felt like the RPM's climb quick mid range but the car doesn't go anywhere for a minute then starts pulling. It's possible the tires are spinning. But I don't think so..
Click to expand...

I think 33”s are a great option. Are you in 4wd? These cars go nowhere in 2wd. Leave it in 4wd all the time.
 
Bowtiepower00

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I’ve seen a few cars with 35s. They look good, and for the trail riding in other parts of the country or slow cruising I’m sure they do fine. If you’re hauling ass through the desert you will be happier with 33s. I went 33s on beadlocks, and they perform well but I definitely notice the weight. 32s would perform better, but look so small on the R. I can only think of a couple of times that I needed more clearance with 32s, and I still made it through each time.
 
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Hammer said:
Part of me wants 35's but I don't think I "need them", but to me the car looks better. I was reading that people are doing gear reduction set ups for 35's. I think thats for east coast rock crawling. I don't want to have to go through all that. I have a hunch that the clutch or belt already slips. It felt like the RPM's climb quick mid range but the car doesn't go anywhere for a minute then starts pulling. It's possible the tires are spinning. But I don't think so..
Click to expand...
Watch your tire weight, some tires are really heavy.

my system 3 RT320 tire ( 43 lb ) is less than 4 lbs heavier than their 33 ( 39.8 lb )

The tensor Reg 2 in 35 hasent been released yet
but
the 33 is 38.5 lb
 
Hammer

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Bowtiepower00 said:
I’ve seen a few cars with 35s. They look good, and for the trail riding in other parts of the country or slow cruising I’m sure they do fine. If you’re hauling ass through the desert you will be happier with 33s. I went 33s on beadlocks, and they perform well but I definitely notice the weight. 32s would perform better, but look so small on the R. I can only think of a couple of times that I needed more clearance with 32s, and I still made it through each time.
Click to expand...
DLC said:
Watch your tire weight, some tires are really heavy.

my system 3 RT320 tire ( 43 lb ) is less than 4 lbs heavier than their 33 ( 39.8 lb )

The tensor Reg 2 in 35 hasent been released yet
but
the 33 is 38.5 lb
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, I've been told by a few people I'll be happier with 33's. That is probably what I will do.

In my head I just need to make more power to run the 35's. I'm always looking for an excuse to do performance upgrades. :rolleyes: 🤣 🤣
 
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Bpracing1127

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Hammer said:
Part of me wants 35's but I don't think I "need them", but to me the car looks better. I was reading that people are doing gear reduction set ups for 35's. I think thats for east coast rock crawling. I don't want to have to go through all that. I have a hunch that the clutch or belt already slips. It felt like the RPM's climb quick mid range but the car doesn't go anywhere for a minute then starts pulling. It's possible the tires are spinning. But I don't think so..
Click to expand...
thats the tuning, a clutch kit and tune makes that go away for a nice clean pull to 70-80 mph
 
rickym20

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Not sure if you had this issue or anyone else with these cars but My car was hard to shift when the car was running going from neutral to high . Almost like I was going to break the shifter just to get it into gear. When it was turned off, shifted no problem. Ended up having to add a few shims on the secondary side to line the belt up with the primary. It was misaligned brand new and caused the belt to hug one side of primary. After adding the shims and the belt was centered on both primary and secondary, the car shifts like butter. Just thought I would share just in case anyone else gets a new car and have the same issue. About $15 in shims so it was a cheap easy fix . Maybe something to take a look at if you are getting a lot of slipping .

Before getting it aligned :



IMG_0993.jpeg
 
HNL2LHC

HNL2LHC

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Hammer said:
Game changer for sure. A friend of mine said the same. I love the heated seats too.
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Shhh don’t tell Gen about the heated seats. At the Sandcho I told her not to sit in any seats. She listened and all was good until we were out on a ride adn @angiebaby told her to sit in her seat. LOL. Now I can see you and yoRe mrs. Getting Gen into a heated seat. Looks like we will not be going on any rides with you all soon. 😂 😂 😂 J/K

It would be good to see how the heated seats help. I’d be willing to get them if they make a difference for Gen. In all honesty seats are on our next go around. 👍
 
Bpracing1127

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HNL2LHC said:
Shhh don’t tell Gen about the heated seats. At the Sandcho I told her not to sit in any seats. She listened and all was good until we were out on a ride adn @angiebaby told her to sit in her seat. LOL. Now I can see you and yoRe mrs. Getting Gen into a heated seat. Looks like we will not be going on any rides with you all soon. 😂 😂 😂 J/K

It would be good to see how the heated seats help. I’d be willing to get them if they make a difference for Gen. In all honesty seats are on our next go around. 👍
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I love my heated seats!!! They get much hotter than a typical car/truck heated seat. I find where is helps is your legs. I’m usually just in a jeans but have a big coat on (no windshield for me)
 
Bowtiepower00

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Has anyone with heated seats had issues with your charging system keeping up?
 
Hammer

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Hammer

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Flyinbowtie said:
Car looks stunning, Mike. Really.
You must have a serious case of perma-grin.
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Perma-shock. The happiness hasn’t set in yet. I need few cocktails.
 

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Outdrive1

Outdrive1

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Bowtiepower00 said:
Has anyone with heated seats had issues with your charging system keeping up?
Click to expand...

I have, you gotta shut everything off when it’s parked, it can barely keep up with a bunch of lights. The pro r has an alternator and 2 batteries. The turbo just has a stator and single little battery.
 
Hammer

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Meaney77 said:
Car looks great!
And just like that you become sick of going to the desert and ask yourself why you don't drive out to the sand more!
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Thanks!

Pretty much, the entire push for the new car was for duning. My non turbo xp was struggling in Glamis.

We will be in Glamis the weekend after Presidents' Day. Looking forward to having a capable car that doesn't struggle in the big stuff.
 
Hammer

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I’m probably going to powder coat the beadlock orange
IMG_3849.jpeg
 
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Hammer

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69hondo said:
Do it. I was just going to say Hammer it looks great but those colors would look better on a sand car 😆 ;)
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Maybe one day..... New paddles worked great, dropped them down to 12 pounds and they seemed a little stiff still. It has plenty of power and cruised through the dunes with ease. I'm very happy with it.

I'm curious to what kind of power and what clutch kit is the go to though, I'd like to get some more low end torque/acceleration out of it. Not sure if thats clutch engagement or cams/turbo...

This summer I will do some research. Toying around with the idea of building my own stoker motor, big ported head and a bunch of boost from the ground up.
 
Bowtiepower00

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You can get up to around 200 wheel with a tune on 93. 225ish wheel on 100 octane. You will need exhaust and all of the aftermarket boost tubes for this. 200ish you should be okay with a clutch kit (weights and springs) but above that you’re moving into aftermarket clutch territory. Anything above that and you’re going to turn the car into a belt eating SOB with the XP based drivetrain, IMO.

You can get 300ish HP with a full build, if you have 10-15k laying around. Will likely need a turbo at that power level as well.

Expect to grenade the front diff ($3-5k for a bulletproof rebuild) and possibly the transmission (similar amount, maybe a little more) once you move beyond pump gas power levels.

I’d stick with one of the main tuners, like Whalen, AA, or EVP, and stay at that 225 level or below with a clutch kit for a couple of seasons before you go full gusto. This is a night and day difference from stock, and where I will end up for next season. If you can afford a full clutch kit you will not regret spending the money, but they are 2k-ish. You will eat a belt or two a season riding hard and will probably still grenade the front diff at this power level in the dunes. This is assuming you push your car in the dunes. If you cruise, and do a pull here or there you can probably get the drivetrain to live longer.

300HP on a Pro R is some head work and cams with bolt ons and a tune, with a robust enough drivetrain to not eat belts every trip- which is why I recommend to start with that car if you want a bunch of HP.
 
Hammer

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Bowtiepower00 said:
You can get up to around 200 wheel with a tune on 93. 225ish wheel on 100 octane. You will need exhaust and all of the aftermarket boost tubes for this. 200ish you should be okay with a clutch kit (weights and springs) but above that you’re moving into aftermarket clutch territory. Anything above that and you’re going to turn the car into a belt eating SOB with the XP based drivetrain, IMO.

You can get 300ish HP with a full build, if you have 10-15k laying around. Will likely need a turbo at that power level as well.

Expect to grenade the front diff ($3-5k for a bulletproof rebuild) and possibly the transmission (similar amount, maybe a little more) once you move beyond pump gas power levels.

I’d stick with one of the main tuners, like Whalen, AA, or EVP, and stay at that 225 level or below with a clutch kit for a couple of seasons before you go full gusto. This is a night and day difference from stock, and where I will end up for next season. If you can afford a full clutch kit you will not regret spending the money, but they are 2k-ish. You will eat a belt or two a season riding hard and will probably still grenade the front diff at this power level in the dunes. This is assuming you push your car in the dunes. If you cruise, and do a pull here or there you can probably get the drivetrain to live longer.

300HP on a Pro R is some head work and cams with bolt ons and a tune, with a robust enough drivetrain to not eat belts every trip- which is why I recommend to start with that car if you want a bunch of HP.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the insight. I still don't like the wheel base of the 4 seat Pro R. I think 200-225 HP would do the trick.

Who is the go to for aftermarket front diffs and transmissions?

I don't really NEED to do anything. It runs plenty hard for what it is intended for. If I wanted a hot rod. I get myself a two seat CAN AM or Pro R and start all over. Highly unlikely though....
 
Bowtiepower00

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Hammer said:
Thanks for the insight. I still don't like the wheel base of the 4 seat Pro R. I think 200-225 HP would do the trick.

Who is the go to for aftermarket front diffs and transmissions?

I don't really NEED to do anything. It runs plenty hard for what it is intended for. If I wanted a hot rod. I get myself a two seat CAN AM or Pro R and start all over. Highly unlikely though....
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I agree 100%.

I believe @SeanRitchie at Weddle can handle the drivetrain. I also see rock crawler guys rave about this place on the RZR forum:

www.ccm-na.com

New!! The Hill Killer Diff!! | Coffman Custom Machine | Grain Valley

The new Gen II Hill Killer Diff. Toughest Diff on the market!!!
www.ccm-na.com www.ccm-na.com

Edit: keep in mind, stock is around 150 wheel, so 200-225 is going to be a nice boost, especially once you address the clutching.
 
Bpracing1127

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The front diffs on the newer machines will be just fine on a pump gas tune. I’m using AA tunes and clutch kits. Been very happy with them.

At a min you need to do the charge tube and clutch kit for any tune. Getting into stage 3 tune. Exhaust and wastegate adjustment is needed.
 
Hammer

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Bpracing1127 said:
The front diffs on the newer machines will be just fine on a pump gas tune. I’m using AA tunes and clutch kits. Been very happy with them.

At a min you need to do the charge tube and clutch kit for any tune. Getting into stage 3 tune. Exhaust and wastegate adjustment is needed.
Click to expand...
Good to know... I'lll look into the AA stuff. A lot of people say Wahlen is the way to go. But it could just be internet cheerleaders...
 
Bpracing1127

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Hammer said:
Good to know... I'lll look into the AA stuff. A lot of people say Wahlen is the way to go. But it could just be internet cheerleaders...
Click to expand...
They are really good too, have heard great remarks. I will say AA customer service is top notch
 
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