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Turbo S or in general- bi pass brake sensor to start

DC-88

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Due to having intermittent issues with zero crank at full ignition / pounding the pedal to start/ ignition first then hit pedal to start I went down the you tube path real quick. Fwiw Batt- good, grounds- good, ignition switch- good . A bunch of hillbilly vids on just twisting the wires together where the sensor is down at the master ( turbo s it’s in a tight spot) and running it . Is this SOP for most ? I’m starting to get visuals of dealing with it in the field … or should I replace it ? Seems like it would be one less thing to deal with to bi pass it - edit ordered new one and some fluid it sounds like codes get thrown without it wired in
IMG_1881.jpeg
 
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Boatymcboatface

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One of the RZR in our group this weekend made a little jumper when his failed at Oldsmobile hill. I’ll see if I can grab a picture tomorrow. It’s been working great since the bypass.
 

Sharky

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Pretty sure that connector is a 2 way, 150 series Metri-Pack connector. It the terminals are flat, its a metri-pack. If the terminals are round, its a weather-pack.

You would need a male connector. Like this - LINKY

Male/Female refers to the terminals inside the connector. Not the connector body.

Or a paper clip and some electrical tape in a pinch.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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My 2019 Turbo supposedly had this issue.

The PO replaced the sender I believe. No problem for me during my ownership.

I’d have no issue bypassing it.
 

DC-88

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One of the RZR in our group this weekend made a little jumper when his failed at Oldsmobile hill. I’ll see if I can grab a picture tomorrow. It’s been working great since
Made it up Olds at night back in 86' with a chick on the back of a 185S pull start because it was the only thing in camp that ran with a head light , and my 07 rhino starts 10 times a day for yard work. Go figure how far we've back peddled 🤣
 

TPC

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I get the EVO ECU flashed and it’s by-passed / jumped the lock outs on most our rolling stock.
 
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