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Stereo and AMP wiring question

ILSMKU

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How do you guys wire your stereo constant power?

Im use to the AMP positive going to the battery. The lead in from the stereo deck triggers the AMP to turn on and ground the amp and deck to a ground. With the radio deck constant to the battery and the red power on line for the deck to the IGN or since we are in a boat, I would assume a switch (in such case perko switch option 1 or 2 should give the radio power).


I have 2 odyssey 1500 batterys, a perko switch, 2 PDX amps and a sony deck with bluetooth. As it stands right now my deck and AMP loose ALL power when I switch the perko to OFF. I loose presets and any bluetooth connections I've already made.


However, if my perko switch is at "1" battery or "2" battery, EVEN WITH MY RADIO OFF, my amps are ALWAYS illuminated which tells me they are ON even when the deck doesn't even have its face plate attached. So it seems my AMPs might be triggered by the perko switch regardless of the deck which seems incorrect to me.

I also have this issue where every time I start and stop my boat, my decks presets and bluetooth connections drop. So every time I start my boat, I have to go into my iphone, remove the sony deck from its stored memory and re add it as if it was the first time its paired or else it wont connect again. That means every time I start my boat I have to fiddle with the radio for 3 minutes just to get blue tooth ipod playing again. That gets old.


Ive been told twice now from two shops in town that using the radio's constant will ruin my batterys. Im told the constant memory will drain my batterys and more importantly the battery charger will get confused that my deck is pulling power for memory while its charging and it might make my charger always FULL power charge in the offseason rather than trickle as needed.

While that makes sense, why is this never an issue for car stereos and car trickle chargers?

I basically want my stereo deck to reminder its settings regardless if I start or stop my boat or move my perko switch from one battery to the other. If my boat isnt on the water its garaged and the charger is on, so I dont see my radio constant being a battery drain hog. But I am concerned about the charger being fooled if that's even really an issue?

Thoughts?
 

rivermobster

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To do what you want, you'll have to wire the amp and the head unit directly to one of the batteries.

With the switch off, the batteries should be separated. In this situation, even if you do kill one battery, the other one will start the boat.

(I sorta did this on my boat. I used an isolator to power the sound system and lights from only one battery. I don't have a switch on my boat). This way if i kill that one battery, the other one will still be fully charged.
 

ILSMKU

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To do what you want, you'll have to wire the amp and the head unit directly to one of the batteries.

With the switch off, the batteries should be separated. In this situation, even if you do kill one battery, the other one will start the boat.

(I sorta did this on my boat. I used an isolator to power the sound system and lights from only one battery. I don't have a switch on my boat). This way if i kill that one battery, the other one will still be fully charged.


I think my issue is more so the stereo decks 12V constant not being set directly to a constant. That would explain why my presets disappear and my blue tooth connection always has to be erased and repaired.

And my AMPs remote tigger appears to set to the perko switches constant on 1, 2, BOTH, but not OFF. The amp/radio works on either battery or both on, but not OFF. And the AMP's remote on needs to be attached to my deck so that the deck tells them amps when its time to turn on. Because as I mentioned, even if the radio is off, the AMPs are on the second I switch to 1, 2, both on the perko regardless of the deck.

Im just worried about the stereo decks constant interfering with the onboard battery charger.
 

ILSMKU

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Englewood

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The amp should be getting an on/off signal from the received via the remote wire (usually blue). When the radio is off, the amp should not be illuminated. If it is, the receiver is having issues.
 

STV_Keith

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There may be a constant 12V input on your head unit to maintain the clock, presets, etc. You'd have to run a dedicated wire to the battery for this. I'd fuse it pretty small too. Any charger will keep up with that though...the head unit is probably pulling millivolts to maintain those functions while turned off.
 
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