Shower Tile Question

[ltbaney1]

So im redoing my master shower. I got it all gutted and framed back in, had the hot mop done earlier this week, going to do the Hardibacker and drywall tonight / tomorrow morning and start tile on sunday. im good with tiling the walls. question is about the hot mop, they did the 1/4" per inch slope under the hot mop, but do i need to do a mud bed prior to laying thin set and tile? ive gotten both yes and no, so im turning here to the experts. if it matters my plan as of right now is tile the walls first and work my way out the shower and bathroom by doing the floor (shower and bathroom floor will have same tile. thanks for any insight.

 

[NicPaus]

Post a picture of how you have the drain setup. Most hot mop drains will need a mortar bed to get tile to finished drain level.

 

[ltbaney1]

as of right now, if i pull that PVC plug out of the drain it is flush. i do have the part that threads into with the grate on on top.

 

[braindead]

Yes, you need a mud base to bring it up closer to the drain. Our tile guy sets 1 1/2-2" of mud on top of the hot mop.

Your putting felt paper between the drywall and Hardi backer right?

 

[4Waters]

So im redoing my master shower. I got it all gutted and framed back in, had the hot mop done earlier this week, going to do the Hardibacker and drywall tonight / tomorrow morning and start tile on sunday. im good with tiling the walls. question is about the hot mop, they did the 1/4" per inch slope under the hot mop, but do i need to do a mud bed prior to laying thin set and tile? ive gotten both yes and no, so im turning here to the experts. if it matters my plan as of right now is tile the walls first and work my way out the shower and bathroom by doing the floor (shower and bathroom floor will have same tile. thanks for any insight.

Racist!! It's primary shower. LOL

 

[ltbaney1]

Yes, you need a mud base to bring it up closer to the drain. Our tile guy sets 1 1/2-2" of mud on top of the hot mop.

Your putting felt paper between the drywall and Hardi backer right?

Cool thanks, was talking it over with a buddy with more experience and he said about an inch.

Yes felt paper behind the Hardi.

 

[ltbaney1]

Racist!! It's primary shower. LOL

I don’t buy into that bs. I did have to laugh though. There are a couple blm folk protesting with signs in lowes parking lot this afternoon.

 

[Turnup]

I like to do a couple red guard coats with mesh tape on top of the hardie backer in my own stalls in case I live 50 more years lol.

 

[NicPaus]

Thread the drain into place. If tile is 1/4" thick mortar bed should be 3/8" below top of grate. Mortar, thinset and tile = top of grate height.

 

[flyingcolors]

dont know where located, but in Calif the hot mop slopes to the flange at the bottom of the drain,then the mortar slopes to the grate-minus tile and thinset thichness,the morter is about 1 1/2 inch thick

 

[ltbaney1]

dont know where located, but in Calif the hot mop slopes to the flange at the bottom of the drain,then the mortar slopes to the grate-minus tile and thinset thichness,the morter is about 1 1/2 inch thick

I’m in mission Viejo. That seems to the general consensus i get. Thanks.

 

[franky]

Caulk all seams, screw heads, whatever on the walls and then a liberal coat of red guard

 

[77charger]

Do not screw or nail anything below height of dam. It will eventually leak of you do. I don’t know tile but I know hot mops 26 years of field experience

 

[ltbaney1]

Caulk all seams, screw heads, whatever on the walls and then a liberal coat of red guard

That’s the plan.

 

[ltbaney1]

Do not screw or nail anything below height of dam. It will eventually leak of you do. I don’t know tile but I know hot mops 26 years of field experience

Correct. Nothing punctures the hot mop. Ive been OCD about it, seeing as this shower is on the second floor directly over my recliner in the living room. Don’t want a leak and then the lid falling on me while I’m half drunk watching tv.

 

[77charger]

Correct. Nothing punctures the hot mop. Ive been OCD about it, seeing as this shower is on the second floor directly over my recliner in the living room. Don’t want a leak and then the lid falling on me while I’m half drunk watching tv.

I like to tell people i prefer they atleast stay an inch above the dam height to be extra safe.I have seen some where they staple lath into the hot mop below the dam line on tract work i then have to find a super and show him and give the guys a lesson about it.the dam itself is also one they do it too to get wire to stick you can screw into the front side of it but not the top or inside of it..

 

[Havasu blue label]

Always put some water in it

 

[Havasu blue label]

Check for leaks don’t see any black paper run it up about 6 inches from bed

 

[Uncle Dave]

So im redoing my master shower. I got it all gutted and framed back in, had the hot mop done earlier this week, going to do the Hardibacker and drywall tonight / tomorrow morning and start tile on sunday. im good with tiling the walls. question is about the hot mop, they did the 1/4" per inch slope under the hot mop, but do i need to do a mud bed prior to laying thin set and tile? ive gotten both yes and no, so im turning here to the experts. if it matters my plan as of right now is tile the walls first and work my way out the shower and bathroom by doing the floor (shower and bathroom floor will have same tile. thanks for any insight.

Just did this twice (once on purpose - once because the house inspector missed a rotten floor)

- we did the sandwich like this-

Mudbed base- hot mop- mud bed again (to get level w/drain) - thinset/tile

You don't tile over a hot mop.

In one shower we used hardback w red guard everywhere
In one shower we used dense shield w hydroban only on the seams.

IF we get unlucky and ever have to do a 3rd we'd use dense shield /hydroban again.

UD

Heres a pict of shower 1 we papered and covered up about 10 inches and its hard to see but its filled w/ water for a test.

 

[NicPaus]

2 layers of 60 minute black paper on the studs. If you guys like red guard try Laticrete Hydroban. Much better product. Got that tip from RiverGames on here

 

[Uncle Dave]

If you guys like red guard try Laticrete Hydroban. Much better product. Got that tip from RiverGames on here

Agreed.

W Hardibacker you need to redguard everything

W Dense Shield and hydroban you only need to do the seams

 

[NicPaus]

W Hardibacker you need to redguard everything

W Dense Shield and hydroban you only need to do the seams
[/QUOTE]

Actually if properly waterproofed no need for redguard when using a backerboard or float. Its a secondary waterproof. For a shower inspection. Water pan filled for 24hr and 2 layers of 60 minute. Hydroban the walls once backed or floated for good measure.

 

[Uncle Dave]

W Hardibacker you need to redguard everything

W Dense Shield and hydroban you only need to do the seams

Actually if properly waterproofed no need for redguard when using a backerboard or float. Its a secondary waterproof. For a shower inspection. Water pan filled for 24hr and 2 layers of 60 minute. Hydroban the walls once backed or floated for good measure.
[/QUOTE]

Thats what I thought as well and what the" brochure" says. I got warned off that by two diff "shower only" guys.

Both told us we should have used dense shield/ hydro ban but we'd be " ok" if we regarded the whole thing.

I feel better with full on construction guys like you telling me I did double secret probation water proofing.

Construction works a little bit like a knee doctor - You need surgery - You'll be fine

UD

 

[NicPaus]

On new construction i have to warranty for 10 years. Inspectors are not all up to date on the hydroban. They want to see the 2 layers of black paper. Which i have done that way for a long time until starting to use the hydroban. Where i buy it he says the majority of guys are pool guys that buy it. Most the local tile guys just use redguard.

 

[ltbaney1]

The pan sat full of water fo 36 hours.. no leaks. Black paper behind haribacker and red gaurd will go up tomorrow. That’s my plan for now, taking today off working on it to drink beer and hang in the pool with family.

 

[WildHorses24]

On new construction i have to warranty for 10 years. Inspectors are not all up to date on the hydroban. They want to see the 2 layers of black paper. Which i have done that way for a long time until starting to use the hydroban. Where i buy it he says the majority of guys are pool guys that buy it. Most the local tile guys just use redguard.

My hot mop guy made me build up 10” above everything including seat.? Even where I couldn’t build up with 2x10 I just did sheet metal ? Did I go overboard?

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[NicPaus]

My hot mop guy made me build up 10” above everything including seat.? Even where I couldn’t build up with 2x10 I just did sheet metal ? Did I go overboard?
View attachment 895872


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No. Looks good. Always got to block up between the studs. Sometimes got to severely notch the blocks due to plumbing vents or other obstruction.

 

[ltbaney1]

My hot mop guy made me build up 10” above everything including seat.? Even where I couldn’t build up with 2x10 I just did sheet metal ? Did I go overboard?
View attachment 895872


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Looks good to me, same thing i had to do. 2x10 blocking. I had to notch the hell out of 2 of them to clear plumbing.