I was looking for the 2.5 foxes but they don’t make it for my year.
www.thurenfabrication.com
No eq bars. Doesn’t bottom out. Just bounces too much for my liking. Didn’t do it two years ago so figured shocks are going out. Might as well get something nice for it.
Myself as well. Couldn’t have convinced me how much of a difference just the 2.0’s would make. Money damn well spent.
I have no patience for eq bars.You May have killed em running around with no EQ bars!
I love my Bilstein's.
I tow almost everyday and disconnect the trailer when I get to work. I got a pretty big hitch on it so I’m not worried about it breaking.It does take a bit to get em dialed in, but I (personally) wouldn't run without em.
It's also a Major pain to take em on and off without an electric jack, so I do understand the frustration.
The good news is...
They normally double your hitch capacity.
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Do you have lift blocks and stock leafs or aftermarket leafs?I tow almost everyday and disconnect the trailer when I get to work. I got a pretty big hitch on it so I’m not worried about it breaking.
As stupid as it sound I just need the back end of the truck to stop fluctuating so much when I hit a dip. This is because I’m speeding.
Stock leafs with 2” lift block.
Got a pic? If your lower control arms are dropped down using a drop bracket, you’ll more than likely need 4-6” lift shocks
Damn dawg, you definitely never replaced those shocks. I ordered the fox 2.0 with adjustible resi. Will let you know how it is.
I bought it like this. Not changing it now. If I did I'd go coil over kit and ditch the torsion bar set up.Woah. Just a tiny bit too long??
I called Bilstein's tech support line when I went to replace mine, with my ridiculous lift kit.
They had me make some measurements, and then told me what part numbers to order.
Super helpful.
I bought it the way it sits. I only drive it every few months at most . But yeah.... I need to replace the fronts. I took it to a shop and they didn't know how to figure out what shocks I needed. I was annoyed at that incompetents and brought it home...
I’d either run the duals and ditch the shock in the factory location or ditch the duals and just run the single shock in the factory location. Definitely pull one either way and get some measurements.
Where you live?
Santa Clarita. I went to big John's. IMO they don't know what they are doing unless it's bolt on parts with part numbers to cross reference.
I was a little confused as to why they have three shocks on there. Seemed over kill for what it is.
That sounds easy enough. I've never been a "lifted truck guy" so I never built a truck or paid attention to suspension components and required upgrades when it came to lifts and bigger tires.
I know the last few posts were related to the front end and guys talking about how to dial that in. With a bolt-on drop bracket kit, it definitely changes things up. Not always for the best.
As far as the rears go, you can always reach out to Deaver Springs. Tell them what you have and what you'd like to accomplish. They can build you a leaf spring pack and can adjust the spring rates to suite your needs. More travel, less travel, stiffer ride, load carrying capacity, etc. A lot of times they can solve your rear end issues and leave you happy. I know people who have done this and then gone back to Deaver and had the springs tuned or re-arched. Ultimately, you'll get the results you were hoping for. Once you have the spring situation sorted out, then work on the shocks.
For these heavier trucks, I personally think 2.0" shocks are too small. I would shoot for at least a 2.5" shock and run reservoirs as well. I know everybody has their preferences and what works for them....but I like blue.
King blue specifically.
They are the local “performance off-road shop” . I expect a performance shop that specializes in lifts to know how to diagnose/analyze and replace shocks and suspension components.It's not really incompetents, it's not something just anyone can do.
You'd have to have all the shock body dimensions, travel dimensions, length dimensions, for every shock built, right at your finger tips, to be able to figure it out.
Then you need all the suspension travel dimensions, and you'd have to know the shock angles as well!
So no one is gonna have all the first group of dimensions except for the tech support guy at the shock company.
When I called Bilstein's tech support, ONE of the MANY questions they asked me was how much "clean" area there was on the shock rod and how much aera was "not clean".
On your dual shocks, you can see there is zero "not clean" area because the shock body is Way to long and the shocks are bottoming out! You can see the damage on the front dual shock from this.
The third single shock looks as it should. There is a "clean" area on the shock rod and a "non clean" area. The shock in not bottoming out, and that is how it should be.
I don't even know how anyone could figure out the correct dual shock dimensions, with a shock that's bottoming out, but I'd guess any shock company can get pretty close.
Decide what brand of shocks you want to run, and then call their tech support line.
Be ready with a tape measure and tools to remove the shocks.
That's what I had to do, and my truck rides perfectly now. It was totally worth my time to try and figure it out.
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I’ve heard a lot of great things about Deaver. Thanks for the input.I know the last few posts were related to the front end and guys talking about how to dial that in. With a bolt-on drop bracket kit, it definitely changes things up. Not always for the best.
As far as the rears go, you can always reach out to Deaver Springs. Tell them what you have and what you'd like to accomplish. They can build you a leaf spring pack and can adjust the spring rates to suite your needs. More travel, less travel, stiffer ride, load carrying capacity, etc. A lot of times they can solve your rear end issues and leave you happy. I know people who have done this and then gone back to Deaver and had the springs tuned or re-arched. Ultimately, you'll get the results you were hoping for. Once you have the spring situation sorted out, then work on the shocks.
For these heavier trucks, I personally think 2.0" shocks are too small. I would shoot for at least a 2.5" shock and run reservoirs as well. I know everybody has their preferences and what works for them....but I like blue.
King blue specifically.
I don’t know if I have any issues with the rear leafs? I’d love to ditch the torsion bar set up and go to a coil over kit though. I’d rather have a new truck though…You got this.
I like what @Backlash had to say though. Probably best to get the springs looked at first.
Lots of smart fuckers around here!
Ain't nobody ever said I was smart before, so you must be referring to someone else.You got this.
I like what @Backlash had to say though. Probably best to get the springs looked at first.
Lots of smart fuckers around here!
Adjusting the torsion bars opens up another can of worms entirely. Yes, you can do it and create additional height on the front of the truck....but it reduces the ride quality and puts unnecessary strain on other components. It seems when people do this, it creates other problems that never seem to be resolved. Personally, I wouldn't play with the torsion bars too much. I'd put them as close to factory as possible and leave them alone. My opinion, the juice isn't worth the squeeze with factory torsion bars on these trucks.Oh shit...
Just crank up the torsion bars up front to give the front shocks some room to breathe?
I'm not sure if this is a good idea or not. Maybe someone else knows better?
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Folks don't realize the difference until after they've ridden in a truck with King Shocks. The difference is night and day over pretty much everything else.
