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Seal for outdoor concrete countertop?

2Driver

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My new outdoor bar is still curing. Once it comes out of the forms I want an easy to apply outdoor sealer post some finishing work

Has anyone done this?
 
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JLG614

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Theres a few different sealers we use for outdoor applications. You can use an acrylic sealer. Typically thats a single component material with a gloss finish, easy to apply, you can roll it on or spray it on. You can also use a urethane sealer. Those come in a few different finishes, Gloss, Semi gloss, and matte. I typically roll this style sealer on. Lastly you can use Polyaspartic coating. This would be the strongest and thickest coating you can put down. Its a two component material, typically a 1 to 1 ratio. Very easy to use. I roll this material on. You can also do a light grind on the entire table to try and get a more consistent look, this also helps the materials adhere to the concrete better. but I wouldn't worry too much about adhesion because its just a table and not going to get heavy use like a floor would. If it started to flake or come off in a few years you would just need to quickly grind everything off and reapply
 

2Driver

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Theres a few different sealers we use for outdoor applications. You can use an acrylic sealer. Typically thats a single component material with a gloss finish, easy to apply, you can roll it on or spray it on. You can also use a urethane sealer. Those come in a few different finishes, Gloss, Semi gloss, and matte. I typically roll this style sealer on. Lastly you can use Polyaspartic coating. This would be the strongest and thickest coating you can put down. Its a two component material, typically a 1 to 1 ratio. Very easy to use. I roll this material on. You can also do a light grind on the entire table to try and get a more consistent look, this also helps the materials adhere to the concrete better. but I wouldn't worry too much about adhesion because its just a table and not going to get heavy use like a floor would. If it started to flake or come off in a few years you would just need to quickly grind everything off and reapply

Thanks maybe this stuff?

IMG_0208.png
 

Caydens Cat

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No input, but compliments on the build and view!
Scratch that. On my parents bbq (concrete surface ) we used 511. Didn’t recall till I saw the post above. It’s now been 10 years-ish and it’s held up as far as I recall. They live at the ocean so they have regular moisture to further attack it.
 

Dunerking

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Theres a few different sealers we use for outdoor applications. You can use an acrylic sealer. Typically thats a single component material with a gloss finish, easy to apply, you can roll it on or spray it on. You can also use a urethane sealer. Those come in a few different finishes, Gloss, Semi gloss, and matte. I typically roll this style sealer on. Lastly you can use Polyaspartic coating. This would be the strongest and thickest coating you can put down. Its a two component material, typically a 1 to 1 ratio. Very easy to use. I roll this material on. You can also do a light grind on the entire table to try and get a more consistent look, this also helps the materials adhere to the concrete better. but I wouldn't worry too much about adhesion because its just a table and not going to get heavy use like a floor would. If it started to flake or come off in a few years you would just need to quickly grind everything off and reapply
What kind of grinding wheel do you use to remove the flaking previous sealer? I need to reseal our concrete BBQ counter top,but it definitely needs to be prepped first.
 

JLG614

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What kind of grinding wheel do you use to remove the flaking previous sealer? I need to reseal our concrete BBQ counter top,but it definitely needs to be prepped first.
Kind of depends on what the table looks like now. We use diamond grinding wheels. You just want to be careful you don’t grind down too far and start exposing the aggregate. That will give you a salt and pepper finish. Not a bad look if that’s what you want but if the top is a cream finish now you just want to grind off a little to get the coating off but not expose aggregate. You can get them from Home Depot but they typically only have 2 disk available, 1 with a couple diamond segments and 1 with more diamond segments. The problem with those wheels is they are very aggressive. They are probably around a 16-20 grit diamond. For prep like tables and light sanding we will use much higher grit disks with lots of segments, around 80-100 grit. I would even consider just using a normal hand sander with low grit sand paper to see if you can get the coating off and a little abrasion to apply a new coating
 

Dunerking

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Kind of depends on what the table looks like now. We use diamond grinding wheels. You just want to be careful you don’t grind down too far and start exposing the aggregate. That will give you a salt and pepper finish. Not a bad look if that’s what you want but if the top is a cream finish now you just want to grind off a little to get the coating off but not expose aggregate. You can get them from Home Depot but they typically only have 2 disk available, 1 with a couple diamond segments and 1 with more diamond segments. The problem with those wheels is they are very aggressive. They are probably around a 16-20 grit diamond. For prep like tables and light sanding we will use much higher grit disks with lots of segments, around 80-100 grit. I would even consider just using a normal hand sander with low grit sand paper to see if you can get the coating off and a little abrasion to apply a new coating
Thanks for the recommendation! The previous sealer has almost all flaked off..I can pretty much run my hand on the remaining sealer to knock it off..except for the spots in the not so direct sun exposure.
 

Nord

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I would highly recommend finding out what Roadrunner in Parker used. It’s an elastomer and self healing. I was amazed.
 
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