Prop Shaft Log Leak???

[Rickybobby]

I have a pretty good leak on my prop shaft log and it looks like the log is mounted to the hull by threading into the fiberglass hull and bolting it down from the top. I have differing opinions as to how to fix it correctly.

Fix #1
Through bolt it from the bottom using counter sunk screws and nuts on top.

Fix #2
Continue to use the threaded screws from the top (inside the hull) and seal it with 5200 expoxy.

ps
both suggestions came from very reputable riggers who have been doing this for a long time..... but...

rb

 

[dryhoze1]

Hi RB,
I actually did both. I never liked just the machine screws down into the fiberglass.
When I did my floors I did drill and tap for some. But definitely wanted a few countersink & coming up thru.
I’ve been very happy with the decision.

In all honesty there is not much need for the through bolts, but I did it for a little piece of mind.
Good luck !!

 

[Outdrive1]

I didn’t know you didn’t through bolt them? If you use 5200 and it ever goes bad how do you change it?


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[Rickybobby]

Dryhoze
Holy SHIT BALLS!!!!, your bilge is beautiful!!!! Thanks for the response, I am thinking I will do the same. I like the combo. I am guessing there isn't much in the way of torque on the log its self unless things go way wrong, mainly there to keep water out???

Have you had any problems with the new style shaft packing??? I have talked to several people about that as well and its about 50/50 whether to use the new style vs. old style with rope.

Outdrive, kinda of hopin I don't have to redo it once it goes back down. One of the well known riggers, said that the plain silicone will break down over time when exposed to oil and gas in the bilge. I don't have a lot of either in mine, but it makes sense.
rb

 

[cofooter]

3M 4200 is removable if for some reason you had to at some later point. On my resto I asked the guy that is going to rig it for me what I should do and he said fill the old holes and he'll re-drill and tap.

 

[wsuwrhr]

Yeap, you put 5200 on it and good luck ever getting it back off again.

Youll need heat, or destroying something getting it off.

Brian

I didn’t know you didn’t through bolt them? If you use 5200 and it ever goes bad how do you change it?

 

[dryhoze1]

Dryhoze
Holy SHIT BALLS!!!!, your bilge is beautiful!!!! Thanks for the response, I am thinking I will do the same. I like the combo. I am guessing there isn't much in the way of torque on the log its self unless things go way wrong, mainly there to keep water out???

Have you had any problems with the new style shaft packing??? I have talked to several people about that as well and its about 50/50 whether to use the new style vs. old style with rope.

Outdrive, kinda of hopin I don't have to redo it once it goes back down. One of the well known riggers, said that the plain silicone will break down over time when exposed to oil and gas in the bilge. I don't have a lot of either in mine, but it makes sense.
rb

Thank you RB !
Here is a link to the restoration if you have an interest.
https://www.performanceboats.com/v-drives/100630-1969-sanger-restoration.html


In response to your question about the prop shaft seal. YES ! I have had problems & just this last weekend it leaked like a sieve. I had to bring a grease gun with me in the boat.
I’m going with a different design & proven part. PM me if you want info.
Anyway as stated use 4200. It’s more than acceptable and can be removed someday if needed.
When you finally pull it down for final installation, put down some painters tape within 1/8th “ or so around shaft log. When tightened down you can drag your finger around it keeping a clean line on the floor. ( kinda like caulking a sink or tub )

Good luck !!

 

[Outdrive1]

Through bolt it. [emoji106]. Lol.


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[welldigger00]

My pile o shit is through bolted.


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[GN107]

I drill and tap the floor and set it in with Sea Going Epoxy Putty. Works and looks great. If you need to remove in the future a little heat will loosen it up