New GMC 6.2 burning oil?

[outboard_256]

if it was me and the car is still under warranty I stick by the manufactures recommendations. I don't want to do anything that could void the warranty. If it's out of warranty I will experiment a little. Send the OEM oil out to Blackstone to see if it really had degraded. Try 5w30 and monitor it closely and see if anything changes and send it out at the end fo the oil change. Compare the results.

 

[hman442]

I've got a customer, old school hot rodder, he has a Tahoe & a gas Dually. He requests straight 30w, summers, 20w winters. He don't go for that new fangled "multi-viscosity" voodoo oil!

 

[Sleek-Jet]

@RiverDave Seems like this thread went for pages regarding oil in car ... I'll just leave this here,

The 2004 BMW 545 my buddy gifted me when left to Maui sits in a garage and all it does is leak oil ha.... I bought a pan to catch it cause I drive maybe once a week. It was telling me low on oil yesterday so I grabbed 3 qts and started poring it in and after all three it never showed on stick .... I grabbed the pan off floor and pored that oil back in ....

Change the "PCV" and all the plastic pipes. Pretty classic issue with that era of BMW.

 

[hman442]

Change the "PCV" and all the plastic pipes. Pretty classic issue with that era of BMW.

Why is it that a Chevy, Ford, Toyota, whatever needs a $6.00 check valve and a foot of hose to comprise a functional PCV system, but a BMW, Audi, VW, etc., needs 14 feet of various molded plastic & rubber hose, multiple valves, costing several hundred dollars to make their PCV system. Is German crankcase pressure different than American crankcase pressure ?

 

[lbhsbz]

Why is it that a Chevy, Ford, Toyota, whatever needs a $6.00 check valve and a foot of hose to comprise a functional PCV system, but a BMW, Audi, VW, etc., needs 14 feet of various molded plastic & rubber hose, multiple valves, costing several hundred dollars to make their PCV system. Is German crankcase pressure different than American crankcase pressure ?

Same concept….because German.

 

[hman442]

Same concept….because German.

View attachment 1255456

Yes, exactly, and make sure to design those rubber bushings so that they start making clunking noises at about 60k miles

 

[lbhsbz]

Yes, exactly, and make sure to design those rubber bushings so that they start making clunking noises at about 60k miles

I always laugh when customers demand I use OEM German rebuild kits on their p-car brake calipers….right, cuz the Germans are known for their high quality rubber.

 

[Mcob25rg]

Man RD, you haven’t lost a step. You still can get post count up anytime you want LOL!

 

[RiverDave]

I wonder if the DFM is causing the oil loss? The wife's burb was built during the chip shortage and does not have the auto stop / start feature and I think it also does not have DFM. Maybe that's why we are not seeing oil loss. Researching on line reveals people are not seeing oil loss after disabling the DFM.

This has the auto start stop.. hate it

 

[RiverDave]

Just a couple comments, seems like if the Yukon was truly as low as the quick lube attendant stated, it would seem like the low oil light would have been on. Maybe he didn't put the stick in all the way, to make the oil show lower. It seems like those guys are often trying to "look smart" for their customers, just to have something to say.
Secondly, historically, RD doesn't keep vehicles to the 300,000 mile mark, so I'd just let them put in whatever oil they put in, run it, & trade it in when you feel like it. I used to worry about oil in my own vehicles much more than I do now, used to run top shelf synthetic in all my family vehicles, etc., then, after noticing vehicle after vehicle coming into my shop with quick lube stickers that were consistently 3-4k overdue for service, cheap oil, cheap filter, but the cars have 180k on them, oils full, engine sounds good, I kind of relaxed my requirements. I just use what is recommended, and try to not be too far over the mileage. As mentioned earlier, seems like we never see an "oil related failure", except when they just plain run 'em out of oil.

I watched him pull it wipe it off and put it back in then bring it to me.. he wasn’t lying..

That said you are correct Stacy’s cars we generally trade every two or three years because of the nature of her work.

My dually in a 2016 though.. lol. Granted it only has like 70k on it.

 

[Swain]

Our 5.3 burns a quart every 3k miles

 

[Mcob25rg]

My 21 6.2 is solid, never losses a drop

 

[arch stanton]

Running oil viscosity that differs from the manufacturer's recommendation is a really bad idea. The average SGOTI has no idea of the engineered clearances of engines that use 0W20 oil or the characteristics of that oil that have been certified by SAE/API as suitable for the intended use.

If I had a $120,000 Suburban I sure as hell wouldn't choose internet advice over GM engineers.

the current oil recommendations are driven more by the need to make better fuel mileage mandated by the government than to make the engine last as long as possible
low tension rings are used for the same reason
if your going to trade in your car at 60k miles the weight oil you choose doesn’t matter your only real concern is your warranty will be honored
if on the other hand you are going to drive it as long as possible a little more viscosity will help
the gm engineers are only concerned with getting you to the end of your warranty

 

[CoolCruzin]

Seems like the dealer / Chevrolet is going to get there vehicle back for and engine swap .

 

[Bigbore500r]

@RiverDave - I'd double-check it cold, verify that it was filled to the full line, and then keep an eye on it. Wouldn't be the first time a previous oil change was done and not filled correctly.

If it is using some between changes (which is common with alot of these new motors and the super-light oil they run) i'd personally up the weight to 5W30 and run a conventional, like Castrol GTX.

Little story - bear with me....
My boat is a bone stock 502 EFI motor. Both Merc and Volvo used the same setup as the GM ZZ502 crate motor of the 90's, for their 502 Mag / DPX 415 packages. These motors suffered considerable oil consumption issues due to forged pistons (looser fit in bore than cast) combined with out of round bores (they weren't torque-plate honed, and had a big bore) and a low tension ring package.
My motor drank quite a bit of oil when ran hard - it was noticeable. I changed the oil to Mobile-1 15W50, and the oil consumption practically doubled! It was insane. Verified over 2 trips. I was having to add near a quart a day!
Got that out of there, and went with 20W50 Castrol GTX. Oil consumption 100% STOPPED. Still run that oil till this day, 10 years later, still doesn't use a drop.

Now -should you have to do this to a new vehicle? No....but if it's using a little and its bothering you, bump the oil weight up a notch and try castrol GTX, i'd be curious to see if it stops! I'd love to see another test to verify what I saw with my boat motor.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

@RiverDave - I'd double-check it cold, verify that it was filled to the full line, and then keep an eye on it. Wouldn't be the first time a previous oil change was done and not filled correctly.

If it is using some between changes (which is common with alot of these new motors and the super-light oil they run) i'd personally up the weight to 5W30 and run a conventional, like Castrol GTX.

Little story - bear with me....
My boat is a bone stock 502 EFI motor. Both Merc and Volvo used the same setup as the GM ZZ502 crate motor of the 90's, for their 502 Mag / DPX 415 packages. These motors suffered considerable oil consumption issues due to forged pistons (looser fit in bore than cast) combined with out of round bores and a low tension ring package.
My motor drank quite a bit of oil when ran hard - it was noticeable. I changed the oil to Mobile-1 15W40, and the oil consumption practically doubled! It was insane. Verified over 2 trips. I was having to add near a quart a day!
Got that out of there, and went with 20W50 Castrol GTX. Oil consumption 100% STOPPED. Still run that oil till this day, 10 years later, still doesn't use a drop.

Now -should you have to do this to a new Tahoe? No....but if it's using a little and its bothering you, bump the oil weight up a notch and try castrol GTX, i'd be curious to see if it stops!

Did you mean Mobil 1 15W50? I ran that in my boat as well. It burned more over the Volvo Penta 10w40 synthetic I used previously.. which was almost nothing. Went back to Volvo oil and it went back to consuming almost nothing over a season.

I still run Castrol GTX 20w50 in my LS… oil analysis comes back stellar every time. Very happy with it.

 

[Runs2rch]

@RiverDave - I'd double-check it cold, verify that it was filled to the full line, and then keep an eye on it. Wouldn't be the first time a previous oil change was done and not filled correctly.

If it is using some between changes (which is common with alot of these new motors and the super-light oil they run) i'd personally up the weight to 5W30 and run a conventional, like Castrol GTX.

Little story - bear with me....
My boat is a bone stock 502 EFI motor. Both Merc and Volvo used the same setup as the GM ZZ502 crate motor of the 90's, for their 502 Mag / DPX 415 packages. These motors suffered considerable oil consumption issues due to forged pistons (looser fit in bore than cast) combined with out of round bores (they weren't torque-plate honed, and had a big bore) and a low tension ring package.
My motor drank quite a bit of oil when ran hard - it was noticeable. I changed the oil to Mobile-1 15W40, and the oil consumption practically doubled! It was insane. Verified over 2 trips. I was having to add near a quart a day!
Got that out of there, and went with 20W50 Castrol GTX. Oil consumption 100% STOPPED. Still run that oil till this day, 10 years later, still doesn't use a drop.

Now -should you have to do this to a new vehicle? No....but if it's using a little and its bothering you, bump the oil weight up a notch and try castrol GTX, i'd be curious to see if it stops! I'd love to see another test to verify what I saw with my boat motor.

Same experience with 15/50 Mobil 1, and 20/50 Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil in 502 efi's. Switched to VR1 20/50 all good since.

 

[Bigbore500r]

Did you mean Mobil 1 15W50? I ran that in my boat as well. It burned more over the Volvo Penta 10w40 synthetic I used previously.. which was almost nothing. Went back to Volvo oil and it went back to consuming almost nothing over a season.

I still run Castrol GTX 20w50 in my LS… oil analysis comes back stellar every time. Very happy with it.

Oops - yes, 15W50 Mobile 1. Never seen an oil burn like that, it was insane. Just edited my post, hopefully it saves somebody from rebuilding their 502 when they just need to change their oil selection lol

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Oops - yes, 15W50 Mobile 1. Never seen an oil burn like that, it was insane. Just edited my post, hopefully it saves somebody from rebuilding their 502 when they just need to change their oil selection lol

Mine did not burn a lot like that. It would be fine for most of the season, and then start consuming some in mid July.. could have been heat or oil wear related. I ran it for a couple seasons and it was oddly consistent on when the consumption would start. I check the oil every weekend, so it was not a big deal to add 4-6 oz. every couple trips. But it might have been an issue if I was not paying attention.

 

[Uncle Dave]

Low tension ring packs....

Up it a grade to 30 and see if that slows it down a bit, if not Id go up again

Mobils Euro 0W-40 is almost a magic elixir, it is a "light 40" from a centistoke rating and the latest formulation contains more PAO which is a higher quality base stock than the group III hydrocracked dino marketed as synthetic.

I wouldnt run 50 in it through.

The new hotness over at BITOG (Bob is the oil guy) is an oil called HPL. High Performance Lubricants.
It's formulated by a supremely respected tribologist Dr Leslie Rudnick and uses higher quality base oils and ester to maintain and continue cleaning.

 

[Bigbore500r]

Low tension ring packs....

Up it a grade to 30 and see if that slows it down a bit, if not Id go up again

Mobils Euro 0W-40 is almost a magic elixir, it is a "light 40" from a centistoke rating and the latest formulation contains more PAO which is a higher quality base stock than the group III hydrocracked dino marketed as synthetic.

I wouldnt run 50 in it through.

The new hotness over at BITOG (Bob is the oil guy) is an oil called HPL. High Performance Lubricants.
It's formulated by a supremely respected tribologist Dr Leslie Rudnick and uses higher quality base oils and ester to maintain and continue cleaning.

Mobil 1 anything is the last oil i'd run if it has consumption issues.....
Stuff burns better than gasoline!

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Mobil 1 anything is the last oil i'd run if it has consumption issues.....
Stuff burns better than gasoline!

It seems pretty good in everything else I’ve ran it in.

 

[Uncle Dave]

Mobil 1 anything is the last oil i'd run if it has consumption issues.....
Stuff burns better than gasoline!

Ive not seen any actual data to back this up, but if you have Id love to look at it.

M1 formulations are typically very competitive when it comes to NOACK which is the measurement of evaporative loss.

In Daves case there are probably two things happening concurrently - oil is getting by low tension rings, and oil is evaporating concurrently (Noack)

Dave could go to an exotic like Ravenol, Redline, or HPL to find a lower Noack, but the rings are going to let some by regardless.

If Dave idles a lot thats going to contribute to fuel in the oil which is going to thin it out and make it evaporate faster.

 

[Bigbore500r]

Ive not seen any actual data to back this up, but if you have Id love to look at it.

M1 formulations are typically very competitive when it comes to NOACK which is the measurement of evaporative loss.

In Daves case there are probably two things happening concurrently - oil is getting by low tension rings, and oil is evaporating concurrently (Noack)

Dave could go to an exotic like Ravenol, Redline, or HPL to find a lower Noack, but the rings are going to let some by regardless.

If Dave idles a lot thats going to contribute to fuel in the oil which is going to thin it out and make it evaporate faster.

My factual data....see my post above about the boat motor!

 

[Uncle Dave]

My factual data....see my post above about the boat motor!

You witnessed consumption with one engine, using a specific formula, your assertion is the entire product line has a consumption issue.

I understand that position, but doubt your experience will be everyones.
I run M1 0W40 in my Ilmor 710 as recommended by Ilmor and it consumes very little.

Sounds like you hit on a good formula for you as GTX20W-50 is usually regular old dino juice and pretty cheap.

 

[Bigbore500r]

You witnessed consumption with one engine, using a specific formula, your assertion is the entire product line has a consumption issue.

I understand that position, but doubt your experience will be everyones.
I run M1 0W40 in my Ilmor 710 as recommended by Ilmor and it consumes very little.

Sounds like you hit on a good formula for you as GTX20W-50 is usually regular old dino juice and pretty cheap.

I posted about one engine....

It's not just me, a lot of people have similar experience. 3 in this thread alone.

The trend is that if a motor has a tendancy to use some oil, Mobil 1 seems to exacerbate the condition

That doesn't mean I don't use it - I have Mobile 1 5W40 in my LS3. I don't have oil consumption issues with that motor, so I didn't shy away from using it.
If I notice consumption, it will be the first thing I change...

 

[Uncle Dave]

I posted about one engine....

It's not just me, a lot of people have similar experience. 3 in this thread alone.

The trend is that if a motor has a tendancy to use some oil, Mobil 1 seems to exacerbate the condition

That doesn't mean I don't use it - I have Mobile 1 5W40 in my LS3. I don't have oil consumption issues with that motor, so I didn't shy away from using it.
If I notice consumption, it will be the first thing I change...

I've not experienced that, if you say it happened to you I have no reason not to believe you.
Others have with other oils, some swear they can feel a diff between brands.

There is a spec for temperature based evaporation.

I try to find the lowest NOACK in spec and grade, and go from there.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I've not experienced that, if you say it happened to you I have no reason not to believe you.
Others have with other oils, some swear they can feel a diff between brands.

There is a spec for temperature based evaporation.

I try to find the lowest NOACK in spec and grade, and go from there.

It could very well be just a byproduct of the boats PCV system.. or lack there of as well.

 

[bbrownster]

My 21 6.2 is solid, never losses a drop

Ours does not either. We also do not have the active fuel management.

 

[fishing fool]

@RiverDave Here is your 3 month reminder to check the oil.

 

[spectra3279]

Having a car that burns oil is a headache. You constantly have to worry about it. Most dealers will say burning 1qt per 1,000 miles is normal.

You can always go to the dealer and ask for an oil consumption test. If there is a problem they may cover under warranty. Either way, adding oil all the time gets old quickly.

How else do you lube the muffler bearings then?

 

[Shlbyntro]

How else do you lube the muffler bearings then?

I've been known to use blinker fluid in a pinch

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

No idea on the 6.2 but this 7.5 gaser with 89K only drips a slight amount after 6 weeks. I'm told all the older F250s of that era do.

Happy Happy... imagine a 36 year old truck with just 89K miles ha.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

No idea on the 6.2 but this 7.5 gaser with 89K only drips a slight amount after 6 weeks. I'm told all the older F250s of that era do. View attachment 1292383 Happy Happy... imagine a 36 year old truck with just 89K miles ha.

Those trucks only had 5 digit odometers .

 

[Orange Juice]

I think you’re ok, until the idiot light goes off, then you’re not.

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

Those trucks only had 5 digit odometers .

Oh snap..... must actually be 289K then. Ha.... fuck it... suckers born every minute. And he told me it was a garage find with a big story bout a dead guy and his daughter inheriting the house, 19 years in garage etc etc etc... well that explains the worn out paint. You guys are Soul Crushers.... but most of you allowed my fanatasy so there is that, thank you. Lol

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Oh snap..... must actually be 289K then. Ha.... fuck it... suckers born every minute. And he told me it was a garage find with a big story bout a dead guy and his daughter inheriting the house, 19 years in garage etc etc etc... well that explains the worn out paint. You guys are Soul Crushers.... but most of you allowed my fanatasy so there is that, thank you. Lol

If she runs good and is a solid rig, the mileage is inconsequential!

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

If she runs good and is a solid rig, the mileage is inconsequential!

Im running with that....

 

[SHOCKtheMONKEY]

D

Im running with that....

Does AAA work in Mexico?

 

[JayBreww]

I think you’re ok, until the idiot light goes off, then you’re not.

If it leaks it’s got oil

 

[HubbaHubbaLife]

D

Does AAA work in Mexico?

Funny you should ask.... I did too.... learned that if you are on the Toll Road and break down you just call 911 0r 411 [I need to find out which] and they send a tech and tow truck. All you do is show your toll receipt. [So no more throwing that little paper out the window fellas] They take care of you on that road.... but if you break down on the Free road you are a bit proper fucked apparently. Crazy, never knew till recently.

 

[BajaMike]

My 2001 2500 HD with 180,000 miles and 6.0 has never lost more than 1 quart between 3000 mile oil changes.

 

[DRYHEAT]

So, did Dave ever check his oil or did he trade that car in on something else?

 

[Wmc]

Down here at the oil change shop and dude walks up to me and says “Just want to let ya know these new gmc’s burn oil like a sob” I’m sitting here thinking huh?

He shows me the dipstick and there’s literally no oil on it?

Is this a thing? He says a lot of them are like that..

Now I’m seriously concerned?

Stacy will run this thing right into the ground if left unattended.. 2023 6.2 motor
View attachment 1254765

Better change your oil

 

[petie6464]

Good to know but have known GM products are junk for 40 years... I see they've made no headway, and people keep buying the garbage; Perhaps a 32/hr. Paid 40/hr. workweek will help..

My 400+ thousand mile Cummins uses no oil between oil changes or anytime for that matter..

 

[Roosky01]

2015 F150 with a 5.0. Change oil every 9k and with 209k on it, It doesn't use any, or not enough to notice, between changes? No way in heck I'd put up with a new vehicle that "uses" oil.

 

[H20 Toie]

Someone found the oil consumption issue with the baby duramax

 

[Flying_Lavey]

What about adding a catch can? I have read many places how they are quiet helpful on many different applications. on the DI engines I'd imagine they would be even more helpful to keep valves cleaner longer.

 

[DQ1]

We have been doing the consuption test for a few months now with Chevy. 2022 6.2 burns a quart every 1400 miles. They state its normal!

 

[zhandfull]

We have been doing the consuption test for a few months now with Chevy. 2022 6.2 burns a quart every 1400 miles. They state its normal!

Perfect for 10k change intervals.