Need new batteries

[colenighthawk]

I have 2 Oddesseys 31 series, and today they took a shit on me.
They're like $500 something each. What are you guys using for batteries?
Should I go back to Oddessey or get something else. I have a big stereo system that is running on the Oddessey.

 

[wzuber]

If your unhappy with your ROI maybe look at an equivalent type battery from East Penn battery mfg.
Www.eastpennmanufacturing.com

 

[CCXHAL]

Check Vato-Zone. Just bought a group 34 Odyssey and they give 20% off when you order online and pickup in the store. Same with Napa, I think.

 

[Mr. Jones]

Ionic lithiums. 50 percent more money, much more usable amperage, longer warranty. Not to mention the weight savings.

 

[77charger]

I need a new stereo battery and been using group 27s. They work well for mine which is basic system.

Been thinking of lithium battery looks like price wise and durability is cheaper in the long run. Only drawback I see is that they ain’t strong enough to start engine if I needed too according to the specs I was seeing. The other I’ll have to modify the charging system.

 

[mesquito_creek]

I need a new stereo battery and been using group 27s. They work well for mine which is basic system.

Been thinking of lithium battery looks like price wise and durability is cheaper in the long run. Only drawback I see is that they ain’t strong enough to start engine if I needed too according to the specs I was seeing. The other I’ll have to modify the charging system.

Lithium LifePO4 are not quite ready for starting battery duty yet. There are a couple of lithium batteries that are advertising as starting batteries because they have higher surge BMSs, but I personally am waiting until some more mainstream manufacturers build them. There is also an issue with the traditional alternators connected to lifePO4 that will damage your alternator.

But you can integrate LifePO4 into your system for stereos. Leave your alternator alone and keep a single lead acid starting battery in place. Then add a lifePO4 battery or batteries and isolate them connected to the starting battery with a LA/Lithium relay. You will have to connect all your stereo gear to the lithium battery. Second option and better option is to use a dc to dc charger to the lithium bank instead of a relay.

 

[Your ad here]

For the vehicles I get Napa batteries. Everything else I go to Batteries Plus. Batteries Plus is so easy to deal with.

 

[LU1682]

Think it comes down to personal preference. I have 3 Optima blue tops and have run them for years with no issues. One for the starter and two for the house /stereo which is a big system. Mine were getting a little old so I just purchased 3 new. Cost was just over a grand but we’ll worth the peace of mind.

 

[Radioactive]

Lithium LifePO4 are not quite ready for starting battery duty yet. There are a couple of lithium batteries that are advertising as starting batteries because they have higher surge BMSs, but I personally am waiting until some more mainstream manufacturers build them. There is also an issue with the traditional alternators connected to lifePO4 that will damage your alternator.

But you can integrate LifePO4 into your system for stereos. Leave your alternator alone and keep a single lead acid starting battery in place. Then add a lifePO4 battery or batteries and isolate them connected to the starting battery with a LA/Lithium relay. You will have to connect all your stereo gear to the lithium battery. Second option and better option is to use a dc to dc charger to the lithium bank instead of a relay.

^^^^^ This , you can run the LiFePo4 batteries down to nothing, charge them back up thousands of times, no harm no foul. You will be able to use 80% of capacity vs 20% for Lead-Acid. +1 on the DC to DC charger.

 

[mesquito_creek]

^^^^^ This , you can run the LiFePo4 batteries down to nothing, charge them back up thousands of times, no harm no foul. You will be able to use 80% of capacity vs 20% for Lead-Acid. +1 on the DC to DC charger.

There is so much more useable capacity on the lifepo that a lot of people could probably just not connect them at all to the starting/alt and just top them off at night with a wall charger… but it’s super easy to add the relay or do the dc to dc.

There is hardly even a cost saving on LA batteries at this point, and definitely LA costs more over a very short time.

 

[77charger]

Lithium LifePO4 are not quite ready for starting battery duty yet. There are a couple of lithium batteries that are advertising as starting batteries because they have higher surge BMSs, but I personally am waiting until some more mainstream manufacturers build them. There is also an issue with the traditional alternators connected to lifePO4 that will damage your alternator.

But you can integrate LifePO4 into your system for stereos. Leave your alternator alone and keep a single lead acid starting battery in place. Then add a lifePO4 battery or batteries and isolate them connected to the starting battery with a LA/Lithium relay. You will have to connect all your stereo gear to the lithium battery. Second option and better option is to use a dc to dc charger to the lithium bank instead of a relay.

Pretty much what I have read on them. I use a group 24 for just starting. The 27 is my stereo battery and that’s the only purpose for it.

I do use an isolator and also a perko switch. Although the perko switch only job is to shut off power. And I can also link batteries to start if the start battery fails.

Been able to go 5-6 years on starting battery which is good imo. Stereo gets about 3-4 depending on how many times I kill it. But like said the lithium performance for stereo sounds good and I don’t draw as many amps. Seen good deals on life pro with more amp hrs than a 27 or close to it. Plus smaller and lighter

 

[mesquito_creek]

Pretty much what I have read on them. I use a group 24 for just starting. The 27 is my stereo battery and that’s the only purpose for it.

I do use an isolator and also a perko switch. Although the perko switch only job is to shut off power. And I can also link batteries to start if the start battery fails.

Been able to go 5-6 years on starting battery which is good imo. Stereo gets about 3-4 depending on how many times I kill it. But like said the lithium performance for stereo sounds good and I don’t draw as many amps. Seen good deals on life pro with more amp hrs than a 27 or close to it. Plus smaller and lighter

You would just eliminate the perko connection to the lithium because you won’t want to ever tie them together. Connecting lithium to lead will surge current from the battery with the higher charge.

In terms of losing that ability to have a second redundant battery for emergency starting, there are some solutions but probably beyond the scope of this thread

 

[Mr. Jones]

For the fishing boat, I used to isolate the 375AH lithium battery bank from the outboard alternators with a DC to DC charger. I got new outboards with bigger alternators though and took the DC to DC charger out and just use a lithium combiner. Works fine, new smart alternators don't run at max for long so they don't overheat.

For the river boat, I use a 40AH Ionic lithium starter battery. It's so small that the alternators wouldn't burn up anyway on a 300xs because it never gets low (no stereo...). Big thing was saving weight as it's 14lbs. A lot of the Tuff folks in Canada run lithium starters on 300rs, 250 SHOs, and 300xs without trouble for what that's worth.

If I was going to run a stereo, I would just use the BlueSea add a battery kit and throw in a 20AH or 30AH Ionic lithium battery.

 

[Kylemenz1]

Lithium LifePO4 are not quite ready for starting battery duty yet. There are a couple of lithium batteries that are advertising as starting batteries because they have higher surge BMSs, but I personally am waiting until some more mainstream manufacturers build them. There is also an issue with the traditional alternators connected to lifePO4 that will damage your alternator.

But you can integrate LifePO4 into your system for stereos. Leave your alternator alone and keep a single lead acid starting battery in place. Then add a lifePO4 battery or batteries and isolate them connected to the starting battery with a LA/Lithium relay. You will have to connect all your stereo gear to the lithium battery. Second option and better option is to use a dc to dc charger to the lithium bank instead of a relay.

For my motorhome I added a 500 amp/hr LifePo with a 60amp dc-dc charger. Works freaking awesome! That would be a great addition to any boat running big stereo systems.

 

[rrrr]

I have 2 Oddesseys 31 series, and today they took a shit on me.
They're like $500 something each. What are you guys using for batteries?
Should I go back to Oddessey or get something else. I have a big stereo system that is running on the Oddessey. View attachment 1421285

Buy the same batteries, but change the way you charge them. Don't discharge them below 11.5 volts while enjoying your music. That will shorten their lifespan.

How old are the batteries? Are you following the manufacturer's recommendations for charging? I'm asking because maintenance on batteries in severe use conditions, a stereo setup being a perfect example, is critical to long term survival. Your boat's alternator cannot charge them properly.

The initial rate charge current after a long day of blasting tunes must be sufficient to replace the proper chemical balance of the units.

Once that threshold is reached, the current should be reduced, and finally a third stage brings the batteries to a 100% charged state. A true three rate electronically controlled charger with a minimum 15 amp initial rate capability is required for your large Group 31 units.

The following is from the website of Battery University, and the excerpt provides the basics of proper charging:

The lead acid battery uses the constant current constant voltage (CCCV) charge method. A regulated current raises the terminal voltage until the upper charge voltage limit is reached, at which point the current drops due to saturation. The charge time is 12–16 hours and up to 36–48 hours for large stationary batteries. With higher charge currents and multi-stage charge methods, the charge time can be reduced to 8–10 hours; however, without full topping charge. Lead acid is sluggish and cannot be charged as quickly as other battery systems. (See BU-202: New Lead Acid Systems)

With the CCCV method, lead acid batteries are charged in three stages, which are [1] constant-current charge, [2] topping charge and [3] float charge. The constant-current charge applies the bulk of the charge and takes up roughly half of the required charge time; the topping charge continues at a lower charge current and provides saturation, and the float charge compensates for the loss caused by self-discharge.

During the constant-current charge, the battery charges to about 70 percent in 5–8 hours; the remaining 30 percent is filled with the slower topping charge that lasts another 7–10 hours. The topping charge is essential for the well-being of the battery and can be compared to a little rest after a good meal. If continually deprived, the battery will eventually lose the ability to accept a full charge and the performance will decrease due to sulfation. The float charge in the third stage maintains the battery at full charge. Figure 1 illustrates these three stages.

The linked document below explains this in greater detail.

BU-403: Charging Lead Acid

BU meta description needed...

batteryuniversity.com

The Odyssey manual provides guidance for proper charging, and most users don't realize the requirements are so specific.

To fully charge a 31-PC2150 battery that is routinely discharged deeply, a minimum of 40 amps are required with charger voltage within the range of 14.1V to 14.7V. It is imperative not to exceed 15.0V as this will cause the pressure valves to open and out-gas hydrogen, oxygen and water from inside the battery. This will shorten the life of the battery and cause premature failure. Some portable chargers exceed 15.0V, especially two-wheel garage chargers, so charging voltages should be verified by measuring the charging voltage during the time when the charging amperage is reducing from full output. The deep cycle charging voltage must be within 14.1V minimum to 14.7V maximum.

Read the manual, follow the directions, buy a good charger, and your batteries will last for years. Odyssey recommends using their branded chargers, and that's an easy way to get the proper performance needed to maximize battery life.

https://www.continentalbattery.com/assets/Odyssey_Owners_Manual.pdf

 

[mesquito_creek]

Don't discharge them below 11.5 volts while enjoying your music. That will shorten their lifespan.

… because maintenance on batteries in severe use conditions, a stereo setup being a perfect example, is critical to long term survival. Your boat's alternator cannot charge them properly.

I agree 100% but:

The reason people draw them down below 11.8v is because their batt bank is too small

Secondly, they don’t have the time and proper charging equipment to do it correctly every night…

A properly sized and properly charged lead acid battery bank is very effective.

OR just let go of the past and convert to LifePo4 and double your capacity at a 1/3 of the weight and just throw charging voltage at it without any thought and be done with all the early death lead batteries..

 

[DarkHorseRacing]

If you stick with the AGM batteries, get a NOCO charger and install it in the boat. Then just plug the charger in between uses and it will get the batteries charged up right. They will work better and last longer.

 

[Desert Whaler]

I've run Lifeline AGM's for the past 12 years . . . I've gotten close to 6 years out of a set of 3 for my boat. (1 house, and 2 in series for a 24 volt trolling motor)
I religously put them on a Minn-Kota charger as soon as I get home, or at the river I bring the charger and top them off at the end of the day.
I have nothing but good things to say about Lifeline.

For several reasons I'm not 100% sold on Lithiums just yet for my particular application.
I fully get that Lithiums are great and the way of the future, the technology is just a little too new for my setup, environment, etc.
The extreme river heat . . . the pounding my little whaler takes, and the saltwater I'm often in just doesn't add up to good conditions for lithiums . . . IMO.

I did a lot of research on Lithiums before purchasing my newest set of Lifeline's.
If I was going to go that route, hands down I would go with Millertech Lithiums . . . the company is Amish owned and they don't mess around with fancy marketing and unrealistic claims . . . they are no frills /BS with outstanding customer service and warranty's . . . worth a look if you're thinking of going that route.

 

[colenighthawk]

If you stick with the AGM batteries, get a NOCO charger and install it in the boat. Then just plug the charger in between uses and it will get the batteries charged up right. They will work better and last longer.

I have a NOCO charger installed, I just plug in the extension cord from the electrical outlet and it's charging all batteries

 

[oldman]

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/battery/marine-and-boat/sli27agmdpm

Running these in everything I own, expensive but I'm up to 6 now with no failures. Trucks, Tow rigs, Offroaders, Boat.

 

[DarkHorseRacing]

I have a NOCO charger installed, I just plug in the extension cord from the electrical outlet and it's charging all batteries

So for me, I have the NOCO and the plug for it is in the seat base of the rear seat. I have a small extension cord that I plug into it, and route the other end through the boat cover. So if I want to charge the boat batteries, I don’t even have to open the cover or install the extension cord. Just plug it in to the extension hanging out the cover and it’s good to go.

 

[OCMerrill]

For the vehicles I get Napa batteries. Everything else I go to Batteries Plus. Batteries Plus is so easy to deal with.

I have Batteries + AGM batteries in my RAM made by X2. Great warranty and we installed them together in the parking lot. Been three years now no issues and I use an inverter to power tools several times a year. Their X2 marine batteries are stupid expensive though.

 

[575cat]

Oddyssey,s suck , 3 sets in 4 year,s I would like to back to something normal

 

[mesquito_creek]

I have Batteries + AGM batteries in my RAM made by X2. Great warranty and we installed them together in the parking lot. Been three years now no issues and I use an inverter to power tools several times a year. Their X2 marine batteries are stupid expensive though.

I have an X2 agm in my camping rig. That is the toughest battery I have ever had. It was really expensive at the time, but can’t say anything negative about it.

 

[stingray11]

Lithium LifePO4 are not quite ready for starting battery duty yet. There are a couple of lithium batteries that are advertising as starting batteries because they have higher surge BMSs, but I personally am waiting until some more mainstream manufacturers build them. There is also an issue with the traditional alternators connected to lifePO4 that will damage your alternator.

But you can integrate LifePO4 into your system for stereos. Leave your alternator alone and keep a single lead acid starting battery in place. Then add a lifePO4 battery or batteries and isolate them connected to the starting battery with a LA/Lithium relay. You will have to connect all your stereo gear to the lithium battery. Second option and better option is to use a dc to dc charger to the lithium bank instead of a relay.

Ionic red cranking battery.

 

[COCA COLA COWBOY]

I've had very good luck with XS Power batteries. I'm not sure if they are cheaper, but I have 3400 that is older than my 12 year old son and it's about to go into my beater commuter for a car stereo battery.

 

[TimeBandit]

I've been down this rabbit hole with my golf cart batteries. Big stereos are in the same category.

You need a voltage gauge and never let them drop below 12 volts.

Never going below 50% of capacity is the key to a long life.

Lithium batteries have more usable capacity you can safely run them down to 20%, but on the other hand they are happier if you never charge them to 100% more like 85/90%

 

[stingray11]

Ionic red cranking battery. 1400 cold cranking. If you need deep cycle and cranking then 125 AH ionic blue battery. YES i AM a dealer for them. Did I mention it's 12.7 LBS

 

[mesquito_creek]

View attachment 1421995

The ionic blue 12v 100 ah show on the spec that they are only 500v cranking amps for 3 seconds… and $699. The crank spec on the red top is where I would need to be but the lower 40ah creates other issues for me.

I am open to these lithium starting batteries but going to keep on the sidelines until prices get closer how I am solving problems currently.

There is still the alternator problem when you drop in lithium on your BBC and idle around the channel

 

[mesquito_creek]

Good video on Alternators and Lithium for those who care....

 

[Mr. Jones]

View attachment 1421995

I run this on a 300xs. These are good batteries. Plus they shut off if they get to 25 percent left and you have to turn it back on, so you won't get stranded

I use three 125AHs for house batteries on my boat. They're awesome. Could be used as starters too.

 

[the510]

The X2 batteries have great reviews!

 

[stingray11]

The ionic blue 12v 100 ah show on the spec that they are only 500v cranking amps for 3 seconds… and $699. The crank spec on the red top is where I would need to be but the lower 40ah creates other issues for me.

I am open to these lithium starting batteries but going to keep on the sidelines until prices get closer how I am solving problems currently.

There is still the alternator problem when you drop in lithium on your BBC and idle around the channel

The 125 ah battery is used for cranking.1100 cca. I can sell to you for 675

 

[OCMerrill]

The ionic blue 12v 100 ah show on the spec that they are only 500v cranking amps for 3 seconds… and $699. The crank spec on the red top is where I would need to be but the lower 40ah creates other issues for me.

I am open to these lithium starting batteries but going to keep on the sidelines until prices get closer how I am solving problems currently.

There is still the alternator problem when you drop in lithium on your BBC and idle around the channel

Here comes the special water cooled alternators.
If your running around at speed all the time then possibly no issues.

My boat runs at 14.6 v anyway and my 1997 fuel injection likely requires it.

 

[mesquito_creek]

Here comes the special water cooled alternators.
If your running around at speed all the time then possibly no issues.

My boat runs at 14.6 v anyway and my 1997 fuel injection likely requires it.

The ROI on Direct Alternator charging just is not for me at this point. It easy to just have lead starting batteries with DC to DC charging on isolated lithium battery banks. Alternator regulator boxes are about 700 bucks if someone wants alternator charging and might be worth it, but I have a 5kw generator on board so that handles my recharge problems, I can run it underway if I want to feel like I am charging while driving the boat.

But I would like to eliminate some of my generator run time.

But I am too cheap and my system is working really well, so I am holding out for a bit longer. I have 300 amp hours of lead and a separate 300 amp hours of LifePO4.

I want to add a ninja frozen margarita machine to my galley, so that could force me to rethink things!! They draw 200watts at 120v.

 

[OCMerrill]

The ROI on Direct Alternator charging just is not for me at this point. It easy to just have lead starting batteries with DC to DC charging on isolated lithium battery banks. Alternator regulator boxes are about 700 bucks if someone wants alternator charging and might be worth it, but I have a 5kw generator on board so that handles my recharge problems, I can run it underway if I want to feel like I am charging while driving the boat.

But I would like to eliminate some of my generator run time.

But I am too cheap and my system is working really well, so I am holding out for a bit longer. I have 300 amp hours of lead and a separate 300 amp hours of LifePO4.

I want to add a ninja frozen margarita machine to my galley, so that could force me to rethink things!! They draw 200watts at 120v.

Were going to put Lithium house batteries on the ocean boat in the next few months. I have two blue sea systems combiners which will need to be replaced to work with the new batteries and keep the from adding in the starting batteries for both engines. So I am about to spend a bunch of time researching the best way to do this without running a ton of new wire in a boat that has fiberglass inner liners.

We'll see.

 

[Mr. Jones]

Were going to put Lithium house batteries on the ocean boat in the next few months. I have two blue sea systems combiners which will need to be replaced to work with the new batteries and keep the from adding in the starting batteries for both engines. So I am about to spend a bunch of time researching the best way to do this without running a ton of new wire in a boat that has fiberglass inner liners.

We'll see.

Just use a DC to DC charger battery a lithium Bank and a traditional battery

 

[Nanu/Nanu]

Im not sure of your work situation, but i work at a place that has a fleet and a battery distributor they use. The battery distributor has an amazing price for employees of our company so you may want to explore your options that way too if that is an option.

 

[colenighthawk]

So I end up buy the same Oddesseys from Napa - they had a sale for 20% off
These mother fucker are heavy. The old ones were in ther since 2012 & 2013

 

[Ace in the Hole]

you got the full 10+ year lifespan out of them.. I run 2150's...they are a great battery and don't let you down as long as you maintain the charge..

 

[DRYHEAT]

I've run Lifeline AGM's for the past 12 years . . . I've gotten close to 6 years out of a set of 3 for my boat. (1 house, and 2 in series for a 24 volt trolling motor)
I religously put them on a Minn-Kota charger as soon as I get home, or at the river I bring the charger and top them off at the end of the day.
I have nothing but good things to say about Lifeline.

For several reasons I'm not 100% sold on Lithiums just yet for my particular application.
I fully get that Lithiums are great and the way of the future, the technology is just a little too new for my setup, environment, etc.
The extreme river heat . . . the pounding my little whaler takes, and the saltwater I'm often in just doesn't add up to good conditions for lithiums . . . IMO.

I did a lot of research on Lithiums before purchasing my newest set of Lifeline's.
If I was going to go that route, hands down I would go with Millertech Lithiums . . . the company is Amish owned and they don't mess around with fancy marketing and unrealistic claims . . . they are no frills /BS with outstanding customer service and warranty's . . . worth a look if you're thinking of going that route.

I wonder, If it’s an Amish company or just founded in an Amish area? I find it amusing that they would build batteries and have a website. I thought the Amish shunned modern conveniences. Interesting nonetheless.

 

[Ace in the Hole]

I wonder, If it’s an Amish company or just founded in an Amish area? I find it amusing that they would build batteries and have a website. I thought the Amish shunned modern conveniences. Interesting nonetheless.

many amish communities run batteries and lights on buggies, and for other "tools" etc...no two orders are exactly the same. Have a good friend that grew up Amish near Seymour MO..he left during rumspringa (spelling?). He's a VERY successful framing contractor now...

 

[DRYHEAT]

many amish communities run batteries and lights on buggies, and for other "tools" etc...no two orders are exactly the same. Have a good friend that grew up Amish near Seymour MO..he left during rumspringa (spelling?). He's a VERY successful framing contractor now...

Yeah, it’s been a long time since I’ve been in Amish country and never really knew “the rules” anyway.

 

[DarkHorseRacing]

So I end up buy the same Oddesseys from Napa - they had a sale for 20% off
These mother fucker are heavy. The old ones were in ther since 2012 & 2013 View attachment 1423715 View attachment 1423716

Yep those are in all our boats. Maintain them and you’ll get 10 more years of carefree boating (at least from the batteries, the rest of the boat is still a B.O.A.T.).

 

[Desert Whaler]

@DRYHEAT
@Ace in the Hole

Here's an interview with the Owner of Millertech 'Lester Miller' talking about the batteries & his Amish upbrining.
The funny thing is , the guy doing the interview who sells his batteries is 'Mormon' ! . . . his company is 'LDS Reliance'.

One thing I really like about the Millertech company, is that they are very transparent about their company & batteries.
I actually spoke to the Mormon guy when I was researching Lithiums . . . . I explained my sceanrio and how I planned to use the 3 batteries if i decided to go that route.
He was extremely helpful . . . in fact, he walked me through the best way to maintain the 2 particular batteries I was planning to use for my 24 volt trolling motor. He said depending on how much usage I was getting, it would be best if once a year I separated the 2 batteries and charged them independently from one another, instead of charging them in series at the same time. I guess one or the other battery management systems 'BMS' could potentially reach 'topped off' while the other battery still needed a little more charge . . . separating them would ensure they both got up to full charge. He said it wasn't absolutely necessary, but that it could potentially extend the life of the batteries. I thought that was cool of him.

He offered 10% off & free shipping if I purchased all 3 and if I'd take a 30 second video of how the 3 worked out in my boat.
But ultimately I decided against it. In researching lithiums I found some Florida flats fisherman that had the same Yamaha F70 as me and were trying to use super small lithiums as house/ starting batteries to shave weight in their shallow water skiffs. The problem they were having when running long distances was related to the alternator putting 14.6+ volts back into the battery and blowing one of the main fuses back at the motor. I think it had something to do with the BMS not allowing any more charge to come in once the battery was full , then the battery would cut off from the engine which would then be running w/o a battery, ultimately blowing that fuse.
One guy switched to another brand battery of the same size and never had a problem . . . but it 'seemed' to me that he was relying solely on the BMS at that point to keep the motor alive & running . . . and the way I run/ use my skiff I just didn't feel comfortable being a guinea pig just to save some weight. There's some places I go where If I end up dead in the water, I'd be completely screwed.

Part of me would still like to 'try' lithiums though . . . I'd be losing 42 pounds in weight, which is a lot in my little rig. Maybe some day.

 

[Roosky01]

I run these. This is year 4 on them.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/battery/marine-and-boat/sli31dtmagmdc

I also installed this when I installed them and has been worry free. Nice that I don't have to worry about manual switching.

Amazon.com