Motor mount plate

[lebel409]

OK, just found out my cast Nicson front and rear motor mounts don't fit the 409...SHITFUCK

So I need to build the plates. All I've seen are 1/2" aluminum and I have a band saw that will do that.

What are the steps?

Thanks in advance!

 

[obnoxious001]

OK, just found out my cast Nicson front and rear motor mounts don't fit the 409...SHITFUCK

So I need to build the plates. All I've seen are 1/2" aluminum and I have a band saw that will do that.

What are the steps?

Thanks in advance!

Hmm,, the easiest is if you have something to trace the pattern from, a bellhousing or something. Regular BBC is not difficult to find an old plate or mount to trace from. Do you happen to know the guys at Auto Marine in Glendora,, maybe Tom and Dave have some 409 mounts you could trace if you took paper or cardboard over there?

 

[ka0tyk]

 

[rivergames]

1/2" aluminum is pretty damn thick. I just cut out a front motor mount for my schiada out of 3/8" thick 6061. I used my band saw for a rough cut, then routed the edges so they are perfectly straight

You are going to want to use a pattern for your bolt holes. It will be much easier

 

[Big D]

Water Jet is a great option for motor plates. I have found that the price is often very reasonable considering how labor intensive they can be to make the old fashion way.

 

[RitcheyRch]

Only missing hole sizes.

 

[Oldsquirt]

Only missing hole sizes.

Actually, there's more missing than that, but the bolt hole sizes are easy enough as the bellhousing bolts are 3/8", and front mounts 7/16". The real problem is in the front view. Only 1 of the 4 motor mount holes is located in both dimensions. The other 3 have only one or none.

Kaotyk, those diagrams are for a BBC Mark IV. The OP has a "W" motor. While the bellhousing view would be the same, the front is totally different.
BTW, I possess the EXACT book those diagrams were scanned from.

 

[ka0tyk]

Actually, there's more missing than that, but the bolt hole sizes are easy enough as the bellhousing bolts are 3/8", and front mounts 7/16". The real problem is in the front view. Only 1 of the 4 motor mount holes is located in both dimensions. The other 3 have only one or none.

Kaotyk, those diagrams are for a BBC Mark IV. The OP has a "W" motor. While the bellhousing view would be the same, the front is totally different.
BTW, I possess the EXACT book those diagrams were scanned from.

ah sorry then. i came across them looking for dimensions for my bbc front plate mount. i guess u could always take a piece of wood and some paint, and make a print of the front and do a wooden test mounting plate?

 

[lebel409]

So I took the dimensions to the block...the lower 4 mounting holes are 9 15/16" apart, 2 inches vertically as opposed to the BBC.

I found a guy in Tustin that makes billet timing covers for the 409...and he's already made a motor mount for the 409 so I'm going through him. He's going to punch a hole for the waterpump also.

Thanks for the efforts!

 

[Oldsquirt]

i guess u could always take a piece of wood and some paint, and make a print of the front and do a wooden test mounting plate?

Nope, you take a raw plate and a set of the correct sized transfer screws inserted into the bolt holes to transfer the centers onto the plate.

 

[rivergames]

Nope, you take a raw plate and a set of the correct sized transfer screws inserted into the bolt holes to transfer the centers onto the plate.

I love that fockin tool :thumbsup

 

[RitcheyRch]

I wish I knew someone with a 409 block and had the time to go get some dimensions. I could model a motor plate in either CATIA V5 or Unigraphics NX5 and create an iges file to send to a machine shop.

 

[RiverDave]

Nope, you take a raw plate and a set of the correct sized transfer screws inserted into the bolt holes to transfer the centers onto the plate.

I gotta be missing something here.. how do these things work? You screw them in and then pound the plate once to mark all the holes at once?

RD

 

[Oldsquirt]

I gotta be missing something here.. how do these things work? You screw them in and then pound the plate once to mark all the holes at once?

RD

You're not missing anything, Dave. That's exactly how to use them. Leave the points just above the surface and give the material a light tap. Have come in handy for a number of projects. Once the holes are marked, you can use any of several methods(which I know you are well experinced at) to center a drill over the mark. As an example, I had to have a shoe made for my pump as it wasn't provided when I bought the boat. The individual who machined the intake didn't use a "standard" pattern. In fact, the holes weren't even spaced evenly. Jack at MPD told me to get these and use them to mark a blank shoe that he provided. Sent it back to him and he did the finish machining. Fit perfect. The other option would have been to remove the intake from the hull. No thanks!

Now, if one has a sufficient size vertical mill and the coordinates of all the needed holes, these transfer points aren't going to be needed.

 

[Racey]

If you want motor plates cut i can do them on the waterjet, normal BBC plates from 3/8" 6061 run about $350 for set cut (including material). Waterjet is really the best way to go for doing them. You can then notch them to your own fit with a bandsaw etc.

 

[ka0tyk]

If you want motor plates cut i can do them on the waterjet, normal BBC plates from 3/8" 6061 run about $350 for set cut (including material). Waterjet is really the best way to go for doing them. You can then notch them to your own fit with a bandsaw etc.

what would a front plate run? i already have a slick rear mini bellhousing and plate that covers the flexplate...