Frustrated with my 2007 GMC Yukon acts like it’s vapor, locking and dying out

[Darock178]

My 2007 GMC Yukon will die on me on the freeway, or when I come to like a stop sign stutters and just dies I might be able to restart in a minute or it might take 10 minutes and I might be able to go mile or a block. I only have this problem during the summer months last summer replaced the fuel pump and the in-line fill filter.. about four months ago. It was going into limp mode and I put it in the shop and they replaced the throttle body module and had all the fluids changed.. after that my car ran great up until today. The temperature is in the 90s.. I would appreciate any suggestions that I could do to help with this issue

 

[Riverfamlee]

Sounds like the fuel pump again or maybe the fuel pressure regulator. Was it replaced with OEM or aftermarket? Same thing ours did and it was the pump.

 

[82daytona]

Sounds like you need a new rig

 

[Darock178]

Sounds like the fuel pump again or maybe the fuel pressure regulator. Was it replaced with OEM or aftermarket? Same thing ours did and it was the pump.

Think OEM. It’s just weird that it only does it on hot days. I appreciate the feedback

 

[77charger]

Crazy I have an 04 6.0 and it does the same thing thought it was crank sensor. I’ve changed it seemed to help but out of nowhere it did it again.

It’s intermittent shows no codes and seems more on hot days under load.it’s been a year since it’s done it

 

[endobear]

My 02 GMc Savanah 5.7 vortec did the same. Ended up being bad catalytic converters at 140k mikes.

 

[Darock178]

Crazy I have an 04 6.0 and it does the same thing thought it was crank sensor. I’ve changed it seemed to help but out of nowhere it did it again.

It’s intermittent shows no codes and seems more on hot days under load.

Sounds like you need a new rig

Crazy I have an 04 6.0 and it does the same thing thought it was crank sensor. I’ve changed it seemed to help but out of nowhere it did it again.

It’s intermittent shows no codes and seems more on hot days under load.it’s been a year since it’s done it

I’m not towing anything. No codes. Put in shop last summer. They could not find problem. Cost me $400. For nothing

 

[82daytona]

I’m not towing anything. No codes. Put in shop last summer. They could not find problem. Cost me $400. For nothing

Is this a call out thread?

 

[attitude]

Have you tried a new prop?

On a serious note, check out the thread and forum in general linked below.

Trouble with stalling when coming to a stop, '06 Denali

So I have tried to Google the hell out of this and still cant find a definitive answer. I have a 2006 Denali XL with approximately 220k on it. When the outdoor temperature gets higher ( 70-100f) the truck will slowly stall itself out when coming to a stop at a light. I will turn off the truck...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[77charger]

I’m not towing anything. No codes. Put in shop last summer. They could not find problem. Cost me $400. For nothing

Mine would do every so often not towing as well. Weird thing is I drive it the same drive Phx to oc. On way home it would act up in certain area just before buckeye. I also stop same gas station in quartzite so repititive driving. But seemed to happen more in 100 plus days.

Not every trip though. Last year I replaced the crank sensor harness too. Just wish I could narrow it down and find real cause.

 

[monkeyswrench]

I'd go with intermittent crank sensor crapping out. With a cat plugged, it'll "usually" restart, then die quickly...not quite lighting off. If it's a straight crank, no fire, it really could be most any electrical connection...like ignition switch, or under the fuse panel.

 

[Maestro]

No codes?

 

[Kurt96]

I had a 2009 half ton with a 5.3 that started dying in cold weather around 150k miles. No codes. Seemed like the fuel pump at first, so I got that replaced but the problem kept happening. Took it to 3 different shops and none were able to figure it out. It was fine in warm weather, only happened when it was below 40 degrees. I gave up and ended up trading the truck in.

 

[warpt71]

I have an 86 1ton cc dually that definitely vapor locks if driven in the middle of summer! It would don't consistently once it stayed over 100 all night. Running down the freeway it was fine, but get to the top or bottom of an offramp and it would die. I equated it to the radiant heat from the pavement just boiling the fuel in the steel line. Reved up and cruising down the highway with airflow it was fine. I love the truck, but glad I don't have to drive it daily anymore

 

[lbhsbz]

Ignore every piece of advise that doesn't ask for scan data....because without scan data, the advise is pointless.

You need to do one of 2 thing:

1: Get a competent shop to check it out, experience the problem, and with their expertise...determine what data is relevant and graph it and study it

2: If you have the appropriate savvy and an appropriate scan tool, do the same thing as the competent techs would do in step one

Nobody can guess correctly as to what the problem is. You can take the autozone approach and replace parts from one end of the list of the other, and when it still doesn't work for shit, start back at #1.....or you can diagnose it properly and fix it.

 

[lbhsbz]

I had a 2009 half ton with a 5.3 that started dying in cold weather around 150k miles. No codes. Seemed like the fuel pump at first, so I got that replaced but the problem kept happening. Took it to 3 different shops and none were able to figure it out. It was fine in warm weather, only happened when it was below 40 degrees. I gave up and ended up trading the truck in.

That's helpful.

 

[lbhsbz]

I have an 86 1ton cc dually that definitely vapor locks if driven in the middle of summer! It would don't consistently once it stayed over 100 all night. Running down the freeway it was fine, but get to the top or bottom of an offramp and it would die. I equated it to the radiant heat from the pavement just boiling the fuel in the steel line. Reved up and cruising down the highway with airflow it was fine. I love the truck, but glad I don't have to drive it daily anymore

WTF does an '86 chevy have in common with a 2007 chevy besides the number of pistons? How did you think this tidbit might help the OP?

 

[DRYHEAT]

That's helpful.

WTF does an '86 chevy have in common with a 2007 chevy besides the number of pistons? How did you think this tidbit might help the OP?

Didn’t your parents ever tell you if you don’t have anything nice to say don’t say anything.

Oops, I guess I just broke that rule.

 

[4Waters]

Ignore every piece of advise that doesn't ask for scan data....because without scan data, the advise is pointless.

You need to do one of 2 thing:

1: Get a competent shop to check it out, experience the problem, and with their expertise...determine what data is relevant and graph it and study it

2: If you have the appropriate savvy and an appropriate scan tool, do the same thing as the competent techs would do in step one

Nobody can guess correctly as to what the problem is. You can take the autozone approach and replace parts from one end of the list of the other, and when it still doesn't work for shit, start back at #1.....or you can diagnose it properly and fix it.

^^^This^^^

You want something that can look at live data, that said something that you can do is check grounds. An internet search can tell you where the grounds are. Start at the battery, engine, ecu, fuel pump and engine harness grounds are the main ones to check, no scanner needed to check those.

You are looking for lose or corroded connections. Loosen them and give them a couple back and forth twists and tighten. If one is corroded then take it off and clean both sides with a little sandpaper and a wire brush.

 

[port austin pirate]

kind of a reach but have heard venting in gas cap can be a problem and cause fuel starvation issues, might try cracking car and see if there is any difference, and no I don't claim to be a mechanic so go light on the chop busting

 

[77charger]

Ignore every piece of advise that doesn't ask for scan data....because without scan data, the advise is pointless.

You need to do one of 2 thing:

1: Get a competent shop to check it out, experience the problem, and with their expertise...determine what data is relevant and graph it and study it

2: If you have the appropriate savvy and an appropriate scan tool, do the same thing as the competent techs would do in step one

Nobody can guess correctly as to what the problem is. You can take the autozone approach and replace parts from one end of the list of the other, and when it still doesn't work for shit, start back at #1.....or you can diagnose it properly and fix it.

problem with mine was and likely Op is that its also intermittent it will come up suddenly with no hints and slow down or come to a stall.Shut it down 10 minutes laters its like nothing happened.

A good shop can take a look at it but will have to duplicate the problem.The ckp is located above the starter and below the exhaust manifold could be heat casuing problems with the ckp too.Its been months since mine acted up but a new sensor seemed to help out and i noticed last time that the harness connecter looked like it took some heat so i replaced it soldered and shrink wrapped the wires and used a heat sleeve for the wires.

 

[4Waters]

kind of a reach but have heard venting in gas cap can be a problem and cause fuel starvation issues, might try cracking car and see if there is any difference, and no I don't claim to be a mechanic so go light on the chop busting

This is real simple as well but leaving the cap loose can set a check engine light, new caps are cheap, just buy one. Good call

 

[lbhsbz]

Didn’t your parents ever tell you if you don’t have anything nice to say don’t say anything.

Oops, I guess I just broke that rule.

Constantly...but I'm an asshole who clearly didn't listen. I have a significant problem with poor advise leading people down the wrong trail. There are a few things I know quite a bit about, and a whole lot more I don't know shit about. When someone asks a question that I don't know shit about, I mostly STFU, or post something I think is funny while making it clear to a non-mouthbreather that they should not follow my lead....

While I am asshole, I'm also right.

When someone posts up a problem with no real supporting diagnostic information....There are 2 productive ways to approach it with a useful reply.

1: Make the OP realize that they are out of their element and convince them to take to someone who is competent in the field

2: See #1

 

[lbhsbz]

Scan data will show that....graphing the CKP will show what the ECM perceives as the signal, Mode$6 might show the raw input from the CKP, but a scope will most certainly show the raw data out of the CKP....I'd start with the codes and form a plan of attack from there. Trouble codes are just clues....they don't tell you the answer

 

[monkeyswrench]

@lbhsbz ...who shit in your cooler?

Yes, a good scanner even without the faulty sensor or circuit acting up may still tell you of a lost comm in history. If you can get it to throw attitude with live data that's great. I have a feeling I'm in the minority, having multiple scanners capable of that stuff though.

Many of the above suggestions may not be exact causes, but rather things to take into account, or jog memory (ie.: had a car stereo installed around the time this started, starter doesn't always spin first hit, swapped relays checking trailer wiring, etc...) It may give those that aren't the most mechanically savvy a starting point as to where to look.

I make a living now fixing stuff. Not everyone I work with/for has deep enough pockets sometimes. Trying to help someone out doesn't cost anything.




...and trust me, I can be one of the meanest pricks you've ever met. I just prefer to save that for the truly "worthy". It's really one of my few talents

 

[lbhsbz]

@lbhsbz ...who shit in your cooler?

Yes, a good scanner even without the faulty sensor or circuit acting up may still tell you of a lost comm in history. If you can get it to throw attitude with live data that's great. I have a feeling I'm in the minority, having multiple scanners capable of that stuff though.

Many of the above suggestions may not be exact causes, but rather things to take into account, or jog memory (ie.: had a car stereo installed around the time this started, starter doesn't always spin first hit, swapped relays checking trailer wiring, etc...) It may give those that aren't the most mechanically savvy a starting point as to where to look.

I make a living now fixing stuff. Not everyone I work with/for has deep enough pockets sometimes. Trying to help someone out doesn't cost anything.




...and trust me, I can be one of the meanest pricks you've ever met. I just prefer to save that for the truly "worthy". It's really one of my few talents

Goddamit...nobody shit in my cooler....ifn they did...I'd make sure they had a non-detectable intermittent misfire or other electrical problem that god himself couldn't figure out.

I spend my days answering calls from dumb fucks who spend time reading advise from dumber fucks on the interweb and instead of just minorly fouling things up.....fucking things up in a most epic manner.

If you are not competent in the field of which the question was asked....then STFU. Far less damage will occur that way.

The problem is that those asking the questions lack the knowledge and skills to differentiate between bullshit and useful information....which is why they asked the question in the first place. That is not to say the OP is dumb or stupid or otherwise.....but simply outside of their area of expertise.

I spoke with 3 people today that know enough to realize they don't know what they're doing, but are worth tens of millions. We all have our strengths and weaknesses.....the trick is to know them

 

[Pelon]

MAP sensor possibly?

 

[BajaMike]

My 2007 GMC Yukon will die on me on the freeway, or when I come to like a stop sign stutters and just dies I might be able to restart in a minute or it might take 10 minutes and I might be able to go mile or a block. I only have this problem during the summer months last summer replaced the fuel pump and the in-line fill filter.. about four months ago. It was going into limp mode and I put it in the shop and they replaced the throttle body module and had all the fluids changed.. after that my car ran great up until today. The temperature is in the 90s.. I would appreciate any suggestions that I could do to help with this issue

Too me, if it’s not a fuel problem, it’s the ignition computer (the main computer that runs everything). Really hard to diagnose because the problem is off and on (although it should show up in the diagnostics). Replace that expensive part.

 

[mash on it]

I have a 7fuckin3 that did the same thing.
6 minutes and a 10mm socket with a new position crank sensor, I was on my way.
I-40, mm~68, 2am, fyi.
Total not relevant.

Good luck.

Dan'l

 

[Orange Juice]

My 2007 GMC Yukon will die on me on the freeway, or when I come to like a stop sign stutters and just dies I might be able to restart in a minute or it might take 10 minutes and I might be able to go mile or a block. I only have this problem during the summer months last summer replaced the fuel pump and the in-line fill filter.. about four months ago. It was going into limp mode and I put it in the shop and they replaced the throttle body module and had all the fluids changed.. after that my car ran great up until today. The temperature is in the 90s.. I would appreciate any suggestions that I could do to help with this issue

Like monkey has mentioned, it’s probably a sensor. Most engines will start in a default mode, ignoring the first 3-10 minutes of engine start time. Allowing the engine to warm up.

The computer starts reading air flows, and temperatures, and starts making adjustments, and your engine dies.

 

[TimeBandit]

My two cents is make sure you buy good parts not things in a white box off Amazon or ebay.

Actual GM parts from a GM dealer when you're trying to fix something like this.

As others have mentioned checking connections is a start. using a good digital voltmeter and doing voltage drop tests on the positive and negative side are a good start.

 

[timstoy]

We had some police package Tahoes that had intermittent stops and no restart. Check the connectors to the fuse block in the engine compartment. We had several that needed the fuse block replaced due to loose connections and burning wires and bad connections. Also check all ground wires, clean and tighten. Intermittent problems can be hard to duplicate and as stated live data is your friend if you have access to the right equipment.

 

[Bigbore500r]

Like monkey has mentioned, it’s probably a sensor. Most engines will start in a default mode, ignoring the first 3-10 minutes of engine start time. Allowing the engine to warm up.

The computer starts reading air flows, and temperatures, and starts making adjustments, and your engine dies.

Not when it’s a crank sensor

 

[Maestro]

Yes, codes don't give you the answer, but it will tell you where to start looking. If no codes are present a competent tech/mech will know how to continue.

 

[DaveH]

this might comes as a suprise but throw a set of spark plugs in it.

 

[4Waters]

this might comes as a suprise but throw a set of spark plugs in it.

Maybe turn up the fuel pressure



JK don't do that

 

[CANUCK007]

I’m partial to the under hood fuse block connection suggestion but had one time drive me crazy and was a ground at thermostat housing bolt. Was probably an ecm ground. No codes or data on scanner ever gave a hint.

 

[Bigbore500r]

Maybe turn up the fuel pressure



JK don't do that

Did you go to special MEFI tuning school too?

 

[traquer]

https://www.tiktok.com/video/7091763416292937006

 

[Bigbore500r]

Im sure some of this has been posted to some effect - but best thing to do is get access to something that can data-log while you drive the vehicle around. When the problem occurs - the data can be pulled and we can see what signal failed. This would also show if it simply lost 12V due to loss of power or ground failure.

Regarding sensors and what happens when they fail on these - this may help rule out some culprits:

Crank sensor Fail:
Won't run at all

Cam sensor Fail:
Will run fine once running, but 50% of starting attempts will fail (it has a 50/50 chance of being on intake or exhaust stroke and it can't tell cam position)

MAF Fail:
Will still run, type of failure determins how it will run. MAF reading out of range will cause drivability issues. MAF with a complete fail / connection fail will revert to running on VE table as speed density.

MAP Fail:
Will still run with MAF working. Some vehicles can run with MAP and MAF failed, but will run poorly off baseline table depending on year of vehicle and calibration.

DBW Throttle Body Fail:
Failures of this type usually command limp mode and "reduced engine power" message, with a dead pedal. Or - poor idle / stalling if throttle body is just dirty.
Does not typically cause intermittent stall / no re-start condition.


With the failure being described as intermittent and sometimes present for a long duration before restarting / returning to operation, my bet is on the following:

• Losing 12V from key to ecm (or from power distribution center to ECM. If the rest of vehicle's 12V power stays on when problem is occuring and key is on, the problem is not between key and underhood power center, but likely between power center and ECM harness as only the powertrain is affected)
• Fuel pump or fuel pump harness connection (can be ruled out with fuel pressure gauge during failure, or by spraying a bit of brake cleaner / starting fluid into intake when the vehicle won't run - if it fires, its not getting fuel)
  • 2nd scenario if it's not geting fuel - check for injector pulse with test light - no pulse can equal VATS shutdown or also points to crank sensor failure, or back to loss of 12V to ECM . . .
• Bad ground / intermittent loss of ground due to bad connection (check these - there are a few located at rear of cylinder heads, one goes to firewall (if I remember right), and there should be one that goes from side of engine block under exhaust manifold to frame. It would not be your main battery ground, as that would kill the entire vehicle's power, but if there are multiple ground cables that branch off from main negative, follow these and check - one may go to engine harness.

Hope that helps - happy hunting!