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Drilling a hole through a CanAm roll bar.

floatn turd

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Howdy,
So I bought these bolt-on brackets for some light pods.
But
The brackets slide around a bit on the bar and they can't be tightened any more.

I was think of drilling a hole where the red dot is and thru bolting something, to stop the "side to side" movement of the bracket.

Anyone ever drill through a rollbar?
The metal doesn't seen super hard.
Am I wrong?

Please let me know if this is a bad idea and I'm not seeing it.

Thank you
FT

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20250108_175704.jpg
 

rrrr

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Don't do it. Drilling it will weaken the downtubes. Welding will too. That location is a primary part of the structure, and it'll receive most of the loads during a rollover, and especially an endo.

The idea of using an adhesive or two side tape inside the clamp is a good one.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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Howdy,
So I bought these bolt-on brackets for some light pods.
But
The brackets slide around a bit on the bar and they can't be tightened any more.

I was think of drilling a hole where the red dot is and thru bolting something, to stop the "side to side" movement of the bracket.

Anyone ever drill through a rollbar?
The metal doesn't seen super hard.
Am I wrong?

Please let me know if this is a bad idea and I'm not seeing it.

Thank you
FT

View attachment 1467497 View attachment 1467498

Whatever the diameter of the tube is 2" or 2 1/4" most likely. Go to the auto parts store and get a radiator hose. Cut it to width, slice it, wrap around cage, and put clamp over that.
 

PlumLoco

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Let me spend some of your $$. Ditch that stock cage. In the mean time cut up an old inner tube and wrap around the cage and then put the clamp on.
Beat me to it. Might help longevity of the light too.
 

floatn turd

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Gramps, I like your answer the best. But that boat has sailed man.
Now it's on to the shit show!

I'll try the shims 1st.
But
If that fails....
The drill thru is a bad idea?
I heard one "nay" but it seems like do it, & and never worry about it again.

Bad idea?
 

floatn turd

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Don't do it. Drilling it will weaken the downtubes. Welding will too. That location is a primary part of the structure, and it'll receive most of the loads during a rollover, and especially an endo.

The idea of using an adhesive or two side tape inside the clamp is a good one.

OK,
I just read your post.
That does make sense.

I don't think the Shims will work. ( its a long story)
So, I'll try a couple dabs of epoxy around the bracket.
I'm use that shit so much, I can keep it from being a big ass mess.

Thank you all.
 

Ziggy

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OK,
I just read your post.
That does make sense.

I don't think the Shims will work. ( its a long story)
So, I'll try a couple dabs of epoxy around the bracket.
I'm use that shit so much, I can keep it from being a big ass mess.

Thank you all.
100% bicycle innertube cut to fit inside of clamp.
Clean and not risking any structural integrity.
 

outboard_256

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I would either cut up bicycle tube and put it between the clamp and roll cage or I would drill a hole in the side of clamp, thread it, then put a set allen screw in it to hold the clamp to the roll cage so it won't rotate.
 

monkeyswrench

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Could you simply file the back side of the face where the clamp ends meet and the screw runs through? Basically, tighten the circumference...like a tightening a belt? It would be removable still without boogering anything up.
 

4Waters

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I use 1/16 rubber on all the clamps. They don't vibrate and move around. And when/if I remove them the powder isn't all scratched up.
Thin epdm rubber sheet. Let friction do the work. Don’t drill and introduce a stress riser.
100% bicycle innertube cut to fit inside of clamp.
Clean and not risking any structural integrity.
I would either cut up bicycle tube and put it between the clamp and roll cage or I would drill a hole in the side of clamp, thread it, then put a set allen screw in it to hold the clamp to the roll cage so it won't rotate.
^^^these^^^
 

floatn turd

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I'll try the bike tube.

It is the right size clamp.
It just moves side to side a bit when mildly "tapped" on.

I'll get it handled and report back..
 

ltbaney1

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dont drill the tube, if you can simply wrap something around the tube or get the correct size clamps, drill the bracket, tap it and run a set screw as a last resort.
 

Albert

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You guys are slipping … sell it get the Rzr pro R .

I had the same issue before , shim it out w rubber that solved it
 
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Dunerking

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Could you simply file the back side of the face where the clamp ends meet and the screw runs through? Basically, tighten the circumference...like a tightening a belt? It would be removable still without boogering anything up.
This is what I was thinking..or shim with the bicycle tube.
 

outboard_256

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And if the tube is really chromoly it would be a bitch to drill through. I would do the other options first even if drilling the hole didn't compromise anything.
 

j21black

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Put a strip of rubber inside the clamp that is thick enough to allow you to tighten it to where you need it.
 

79 HUSTLER

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And if the tube is really chromoly it would be a bitch to drill through. I would do the other options first even if drilling the hole didn't compromise anything.
Stock cages are not chromoly, they are a step above recycled cans in quality though. Chromoly is simple to drill as well.
 

outboard_256

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Stock cages are not chromoly, they are a step above recycled cans in quality though. Chromoly is simple to drill as well.
Nevermind you are right. I went back and someone else was talking about an upgraded cage that was 100% chromo and in my mind I was thinking stainless steel. I got the flu, I need to stop posting, haha.
 

Terminal Velocity

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Measure the tube size, go buy a couple of Adel clamps remove the rubber and put it inside the clamp. Clean and Simple.
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02HoWaRd26

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Simple and effective solution, small piece of double sided tape inside the clamp, will tighten it up as well isolate it from any vibrations.
 
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