Difficulty removing exhaust tips from transom. Help.

[Dettom]

i have a silent choice type exhaust system on my boat. I left the solenoid switch on a few days ago and I think I burned them out. Replaced the burned out 30A fuse and they only move part way. So I’ve ordered new ones. But the real problem is, the rubber exhaust flapper in one side is half gone and the other is deformed and inoperable. So I ordered those too. But since you have to remove the exhaust tips to change them out, I’ve run into the problem of not being able to take them out. They are sealed around the exterior ring with silicone and three screws. I also loosened up the flexible exhaust hose on the inside. But I can’t get the tips to break loose. I have given it a couple good whacks with a rubber mallet but I don’t want to damage the tips. Any ideas?

 

[Shlbyntro]

i have a silent choice type exhaust system on my boat. I left the solenoid switch on a few days ago and I think I burned them out. Replaced the burned out 30A fuse and they only move part way. So I’ve ordered new ones. But the real problem is, the rubber exhaust flapper in one side is half gone and the other is deformed and inoperable. So I ordered those too. But since you have to remove the exhaust tips to change them out, I’ve run into the problem of not being able to take them out. They are sealed around the exterior ring with silicone and three screws. I also loosened up the flexible exhaust hose on the inside. But I can’t get the tips to break loose. I have given it a couple good whacks with a rubber mallet but I don’t want to damage the tips. Any ideas?

Chances are those bastards were installed with a "permanent" silicone and that stuff just doesn't like letting go! Your going to have to use a chisel/gasket scraper and work it around under the flange on the outside with a small hammer. Once you get it chiseled as much as you can then you can whack the tip with a rubber mallet (or a 4x4) you may have to get a hose pick on the inside and work the rubber boot loose with some wd40 as well.

Get yourself a 6pack and a swear jar, your going to need them. Goodluck!

 

[Cdog]

I use a thin screwdriver to pry a gap, some kind of flat blade scraper & wd40. Clock around the silicon till it breaks loose.

 

[HALLETT BOY]

Tie a length of wire about 18 inches long around a small dowel and work it around the tips between the hull . Kinda saw it back and forth .

 

[Maw]

Use a multi-mate or similar tool to slide into the gap between the transom and the tip, work it around the perimeter and in an inch or so. Wrap the "transom" side of the blade with tape to avoid scratching the transom.

Never use silicon as a sealant at or below the waterline. Use a true marine caulk like 3-M 4200 - unless you like replacing transom coring in your spare time.

Cheers

 

[SBMech]

I just put a 2x4 piece against it and pushed with my leg, after working around the outside edge with a paint scraper. If they are installed properly, they take some pretty good force to get out.

 

[Rvrluvr]

Chainsaw. Be out in a jiffy. Beer wont even get warm.

Your welcome!!

 

[rrrr]

Go buy two or three #1 steel electric guitar strings. These will be in the neighborhood of .008-.012 diameter. Attach the ends of a string to a couple of pieces of six inch long 3/4" dowel rod, and use the string to cut the sealant between the exhaust tip and the transom. When the sealant is cut all around the diameter of the tip, use a dead blow hammer to break the tip free from the grasp of the sealant.

Use a single edge razor blade in a holder to scrape the transom and tip clean of sealant residue. Apply new sealant to the circumference of the tip and set it in place. Tighten the retention screws, which will squeeze out the excess glue. Clean up the afflicted area with a clean rag and acetone.

I have not personally used DeBond Marine Formula, but have heard good things about it. It's worth a try.

.

Marine Formula™ is a specially formulated patented mixture that cleans and removes adhesives and sealants used on and inside the boat. Use Marine Formula™ to clean-up and remove these common marine adhesives and sealants:

• Cured 3M™ 5200 and other polyurethane adhesives. U.S. Patent No. 5,856,285
• Removes Caulks and sealants
• Removes Black rub marks
• Cleans Most graffiti and overspray
• Cleans Adhesive residue
• Removes Liquid Nails™
• Cleans Adhesive film from duct and masking tape
• Wipe away excess spills of sealants and adhesives including 3M™ 5200
• Polysulfide sealants
• Will not harm: Gelcoat, Clear Coat, PlexiGlass, AwlGrip® or Imron®

 

[Taboma]

Chances are those bastards were installed with a "permanent" silicone and that stuff just doesn't like letting go! Your going to have to use a chisel/gasket scraper and work it around under the flange on the outside with a small hammer. Once you get it chiseled as much as you can then you can whack the tip with a rubber mallet (or a 4x4) you may have to get a hose pick on the inside and work the rubber boot loose with some wd40 as well.

Get yourself a 6pack and a swear jar, your going to need them. Goodluck!

Just a thought, if you can open up a crack --- my bro in law is a Subaru tech, he gave me some official Subaru Silicone Remover, but it smells to me like the orange/citrus oil Goo Gone. Might loosen up that silicone.

 

[footer]

Similar to a few suggestion above, I used a wire and dowels to saw into the sealant all around the edges. The wire I used was for removing auto glass, for which it works like shit. Search windshield wire on Google. After sawing all the way around with the wire the tips still wouldn't come out because sealant had also squeezed in between the tube and the hole in the transom. So I found a pipe that was just a little smaller than the I.D. of the tip, slid it into the tip, and then used a floor jack to slowly lift it. Broke free with just a little force. But, I wouldn't try jacking the tips up without first sawing around the flange.

It's was kind of ridiculous that the flappers couldn't be serviced without removing the tips. Pretty dumb design.

 

[Dettom]

Thanks for all the tips. I'm going out there in the garage this morning to give it another try. May be employing most or all of your suggestions.

 

[Groper]

Sorry in advance but have your tried a different Prop

 

[oldseddie]

I used a piece of 2x4 with a half circle cut in one end and a floor jack to apply upward pressure on the tip on the outside

Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk

 

[Racey]

Just Trim a long 2x4 to slip up into the exhaust tip, like at least 4 feet long. Then just use it is as a lever in all directions to work the silicone loose from the transom, you won't risk damaging your gel like you would with trying to pry something behind the flange. You should immediately start to hear the silicone breaking loose as you apply pressure in each direction

 

[old rigger]

stop prying against the gel to remove the tips or anything for that matter. Get a 2X4 or 4X4, what ever you're comfortable holding and with a handheld sledge hammer drive them out from the inside of the boat.

 

[wzuber]

There's some most excellent ideas posted here for your application. I'm going to try that de-bond product.
From my experience with removing transom adapters (large flange, rigid, cast alum pieces) from jet boats during pump rebuilds for friends etc. wedging works well but the wire may work even better with seemingly significantly less chance of a really well bonded/sealed flange separating the gel etc. where delam. is already present in the transom. The similarity between the 2 situations is a large flange area with a strong bond of silicone making for a difficult separation without any subsequent damage to the surrounding areas. In your application the wire sounds like the most efficient method of cutting the 4200 grade silicone (non-permanent, marine grade) from the flange and transom, significantly lessens the chance of distorting the flange from wedging. Keep an eye on the wire to insure it doesn't scratch the surrounding gel or cut into the flange some. If still stuck it may require removing the rubber hose completely so you can drive the tip outward. Use some hard plastic or hard wood wedges between trans. and flange to apply pressure and drive from inside with dead blow hammer and wood block as others have stated. Clean/prep for re-install both surfaces as noted by rrrr. Wax transom area several times prior to re-assembly. It will help significantly with any excess silicone removal and any future services/removal etc. Apply 2 rings of marine grade, 4200, clear silicone, one inside the screw holes and one outside, 1/8" bead ea. max. also push some silicone into the screw holes with the screw to help insure no water intrusion into the transom there. If/when the silicone protrudes around screw head carefully wipe clean/tite with acetone. If/when silicone protrudes outside of flange slightly, let cure and trim off gently/carefully with s.e. razor blade. You may need to scrape from transom side first then cut/trim around flange diameter for a clean finish. Any residual silicone on transom will attract dirt etc. over time and look terrible. Good luck, what seems like should be a quick simple project can become quite the pain in the azz and would get pretty spendy if done in a pro shop. I hope this is of some help to you.

 

[Racey]

Gotta love this place for all the great suggestions like this.

 

[Headless hula]

Gotta love this place for all the great suggestions like this.

No doubt... I really like the piano wire idea.

Not looking forward to removing this stand off bracket. Whoever installed it must've used a whole tube of silicone...

 

[old rigger]

No doubt... I really like the piano wire idea.

Not looking forward to removing this stand off bracket. Whoever installed it must've used a whole tube of silicone... View attachment 677640 View attachment 677641

Remove engine, remove bolts holding bracket on and pull up on bracket. You got lots of leverage that'll make your job cake.

I like that bracket by the way, nice piece. Except for the stickers, I fucking hate stickers.

 

[was thatguy]

Instead of piano wire you can get pvc cutting wire at Home Depot for like 5 bucks. Just cut one end off to fish it through.
It works great for a lot of things!

 

[ka0tyk]

First off stop prying at it. You'll only damage your gelcoat.

Gold Molybdenum Wire

Its strong as hell, SUPER thin and it has a cutting ability.

 

[Chili Palmer]

If you didn't know what this thread was about and glancing through the postings and seeing the picture of the wire with handles on it you would think this was about how to wack someone - use a dead blow hammer with a 2 by or a 4 by; be careful with the wire so you don't make a mess.....

 

[Rvrluvr]

Thanks for all the tips. I'm going out there in the garage this morning to give it another try. May be employing most or all of your suggestions.

Interesting

 

[MOUZER]

rubber mallett on inside done it many many of times takke hose off and 3 nuts and have at it..

 

[500bbc]

The 2x4 works the best, may pop some gel if you're not careful.

 

[MOUZER]

The 2x4 works the best, may pop some gel if you're not careful.

yes this also

 

[old rigger]

If you didn't know what this thread was about and glancing through the postings and seeing the picture of the wire with handles on it you would think this was about how to wack someone - use a dead blow hammer with a 2 by or a 4 by; be careful with the wire so you don't make a mess.....

You musta been in the boat biz too

 

[old rigger]

rubber mallett on inside done it many many of times takke hose off and 3 nuts and have at it..

How you going to get a good swing with a mallet in a fully rigged I/O? That's why I recommended using the 2X4 too.

You won't remove any gel but you'll remove paint if it's been painted.

 

[MOUZER]

"LET ME CHECK WITH GRANDPA"

 

[Taboma]

Stick a potato in da sum bitch and rev it to the moon Caution --- do not stand behind it