Building siding questions

[Waterjunky]

Hello all;

I have several outbuildings that are currently in cheap exterior siding (T111 I think) that are in need of residing. I am looking for options. Given that I have probably 400 liner feed of wall to reside cost is an issue but I am looking for options that will last. I do not want to be painting this every few years and I definitely don't want to reside again in the near future. The buildings are all stick construction.

Any ideas on material to use and costs? Stay with T111? Concrete board? Cheap stucco? Other? Probably the only thing ruled out is corrugated sheet metal due to looks, but would consider that if it looked good.

 

[Jed-O]

LP (Louisiana Pacific) "smart panel" "smart siding " it's pre primed can look like T1-11, plysawn and lap siding. I have it on my place. Haven't had to paint since the house was built in 02 and still looks great.

 

[Royally PO'd]

L.P. has good stuff, and also James Hardy makes a comparable product, can't help with pricing out your way.

 

[boatdoc55]

I had the cement board lap siding put on our house in Oregon, it turned out great. It's pre-primed and goes up easily. Has a much better look, in IMO, than verticle siding. Since you're already sided, this stuff would be an easy install.

 

[SoCalDave]

I had the cement board lap siding put on our house in Oregon, it turned out great. It's pre-primed and goes up easily. Has a much better look, in IMO, than verticle siding. Since you're already sided, this stuff would be an easy install.

X2 on this

 

[Wadernation]

Hardie is good. comes in smooth and a few other finished textured appearances..all primed and ready to go. they also have Hardi Panel which is full sized sheets

 

[Waterjunky]

Either the LP or Hardie look like they may be good options. Being a wood based product, my guess is they are noticeably cheaper than concrete board. Any other brand suggestions? Anything you would recommend staying away from?

Any ideas what these should cost? Probably doing the install myself (with a few friends and beer of course).

 

[Yellowboat]

Remember you have too be seer(osb + tyvek) under cement boards as they have no seer strength. This adds a lot too the costs. You are no longer paying that ~$1 per sqft but closer $1.75. Just an fyi.

 

[Waterjunky]

Remember you have too be seer(osb + tyvek) under cement boards as they have no seer strength. This adds a lot too the costs. You are no longer paying that ~$1 per sqft but closer $1.75. Just an fyi.

OK, so the Tyvek I understand as a moisture barrier, Why would I need the OSB under the concrete board? What is Seer strength? These are just storage buildings and workshops. Assuming the existing T111 is not in terrible shape, and completely rotten, I should be able to just go over that right? Realistically given my remote location there will be no permits or anything on this project, and the interior is open studs.

 

[Yellowboat]

Sheer. Auto correct. Cement board has no sheer strength

 

[Mandelon]

Maybe hang some new stucco paper, then go over with Hardi Plank. They have a prefinished version that you do not have to paint. Supposed to last a long time. We are putting some of the upgraded beaded plank onto a house now. It was $2.00 a foot. I am sure the simpler version is less. This is Sage Green with a beaded edge. The white is just dust.

 

[sirbob]

$2 a foot material cost or installed?

Maybe hang some new stucco paper, then go over with Hardi Plank. They have a prefinished version that you do not have to paint. Supposed to last a long time. We are putting some of the upgraded beaded plank onto a house now. It was $2.00 a foot. I am sure the simpler version is less. This is Sage Green with a beaded edge. The white is just dust. View attachment 630667

 

[500bbc]

Hardi, never look back.

 

[Yellowboat]

Maybe hang some new stucco paper, then go over with Hardi Plank. They have a prefinished version that you do not have to paint. Supposed to last a long time. We are putting some of the upgraded beaded plank onto a house now. It was $2.00 a foot. I am sure the simpler version is less. This is Sage Green with a beaded edge. The white is just dust. View attachment 630667

the colored hardi is just dun Edwards paint.

 

[boatdoc55]

Sheer. Auto correct. Cement board has no sheer strength

Glad we got that cleared up, I was scratchin my head " What the hell is seer". I know it has a lot to do with HVAC.

 

[Waterjunky]

Glad we got that cleared up, I was scratchin my head " What the hell is seer". I know it has a lot to do with HVAC.

That's what I was thinking also. I was wondering if it was another California requirement regarding heat transfer and such. Makes sense now.

 

[DC-88]

We’ve been doing a fair amount of this Allura concrete siding product lately ( the new Certainteed).The pre finished line has more colors than Hardi, but the fake imprinted grain is wider and deeper so it has more texture which makes it shadow / stand out a bit more. Installing siding is like painting. The prep, waterproofing, scaffold, and trim installation are more involved than the installation of the actual siding product itself. Many homes the cost of the concrete or Azek type trim and misc parts are as much or more than the siding material itself. The pre finished takes more care to install, caulk , and more coordination with the painter regarding trim, protection, eaves etc. to make it look perfect. Also , there are clauses in those 15 year pre painted warranties for them to weasel out early ...


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[Mandelon]

The $2 was siding only. Unpainted would be less I am sure.

 

[500bbc]

Sheer. Auto correct. Cement board has no sheer strength

Shear

 

[Yellowboat]

The $2 was siding only. Unpainted would be less I am sure.

Un painted is about a $1 sqft.

 

[Waterjunky]

Un painted is about a $1 sqft.

That is a number that I can manage......

 

[Justfishing]

LP (Louisiana Pacific) "smart panel" "smart siding " it's pre primed can look like T1-11, plysawn and lap siding. I have it on my place. Haven't had to paint since the house was built in 02 and still looks great.

That's what I was going to say. If you have peeling paint there is a good chance that moisture is migrating through the siding. It can be sun driven moisture coming back out or moisture from inside. Backside venting of the clading will prevent.

Here is a good site to answer your building science questions.

https://buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-038-mind-the-gap-eh

 

[Jed-O]

Yes.

 

[Waterjunky]

Looks like I can slap most of these right on over the existing T-111 assuming it is not totally rotten.

 

[wzuber]

Looks like I can slap most of these right on over the existing T-111 assuming it is not totally rotten.

while it's true you could, it may not be best as the t-111 nailing install typically is less effective for structural rigidity/support than shear paneling since you don't have staggered joints and solid edge nailing. (but it's better than nothing) The lap siding nailing adds nothing for strength and under heavy wind loads can/will easily blow off under certain conditions. As you describe your situation I too would be inclined to say fock it, wrap it and side it too. It's been there this long this way and been fine. If the day comes that choice bites me in the ass oh well, so be it and deal with it then.
I used the L.P. engineered product on my river house. The material and primer has held up well being overly exposed until I got around to painting it and the conditions out there are some of the toughest around. It has a So. & W. exposure with regular summer temps. to 120*, monsoon winds with heavy driven rain and overnite freezing in the winter. It's performed surprisingly well. It has had minimal shrinkage even with the extended, un-painted exposure. If you can, (have enough help etc.) lay a full caulk bead at ends of boards as you go as opposed to installing it all and then coming back to push the caulk into the narrow head joints. It will work much better, seal out better, last longer and will have more surface area to hold onto to resist against stretching and de-laminating requiring re-caulking years down the road. Just use a stiff sponge (masons/tile type etc.) and a bucket of water, keep nearby and strike it off as you go before it sets up and you will be good to go.

 

[Waterjunky]

while it's true you could, it may not be best as the t-111 nailing install typically is less effective for structural rigidity/support than shear paneling since you don't have staggered joints and solid edge nailing. (but it's better than nothing) The lap siding nailing adds nothing for strength and under heavy wind loads can/will easily blow off under certain conditions. As you describe your situation I too would be inclined to say fock it, wrap it and side it too. It's been there this long this way and been fine. If the day comes that choice bites me in the ass oh well, so be it and deal with it then.
I used the L.P. engineered product on my river house. The material and primer has held up well being overly exposed until I got around to painting it and the conditions out there are some of the toughest around. It has a So. & W. exposure with regular summer temps. to 120*, monsoon winds with heavy driven rain and overnite freezing in the winter. It's performed surprisingly well. It has had minimal shrinkage even with the extended, un-painted exposure. If you can, (have enough help etc.) lay a full caulk bead at ends of boards as you go as opposed to installing it all and then coming back to push the caulk into the narrow head joints. It will work much better, seal out better, last longer and will have more surface area to hold onto to resist against stretching and de-laminating requiring re-caulking years down the road. Just use a stiff sponge (masons/tile type etc.) and a bucket of water, keep nearby and strike it off as you go before it sets up and you will be good to go.

This was kind of my thought process. I had thought of calking as I went as you mentioned, I like the idea of a full seal on the end vs whatever I can jam into the crack later. Now I just need to sort out the potential of an addition before pulling the trigger on this. Of course this is assuming the county feels generous and like granting me the privilege of allowing me to build something on my own property. I have a ton of space already but given the shape and such of much of it, I do not have good boat or RV storage. Kind of unfortunate.