JFMFG
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2018
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You fuckerHad the wrong prop on all along...dammit.
You fuckerHad the wrong prop on all along...dammit.
It’s either getting spark or it not.Still just cranking. I checked all the connections.
See post #29What motor?
He is gone for the 4th with his family. He's a great guy and runs a great shop but I was desperate considering we are leaving tomorrow morning for the river.53 replies and not one "TAKE IT BACK TO WHERE YOU GOT IT SERVICED" or at least ask what he might have done.
Did you get this sorted out yet? Spark or fuel?He is gone for the 4th with his family. He's a great guy and runs a great shop but I was desperate considering we are leaving tomorrow morning for the river.
MSD went south...Did you get this sorted out yet? Spark or fuel?
I believe that’s what MSD means. Always have a spare. Doesn’t have to be in the boat but it should be in the truck at least.MSD went south...
What’s the recommended alternative?I really don’t understand the infatuation with MSD, they offer little to no performance gains unless you are running a high volume supercharger, they are notoriously undependable and they are expensive.
Why do people bother with them???
When hooked up correctly and mounted correctly, they work fine. Mines been working in my boat for 13 years. At least that’s my theory.I really don’t understand the infatuation with MSD, they offer little to no performance gains unless you are running a high volume supercharger, they are notoriously undependable and they are expensive.
Why do people bother with them???
In other words, you followed the installation instructions.When hooked up correctly and mounted correctly, they work fine. Mines been working in my boat for 13 years. At least that’s my theory.
Hopefully I didn’t just jinx myself
I mounted mine on rubber dampers on the mount for the electrical connector. Not directly to the block or any other mounts.
I also wired the power directly to the battery, ground and power. Connections are all soldered and shrink wrapped.
View attachment 1249172
Mallory, Jacob’s or even the factory hei units.What’s the recommended alternative?
We used to run Stinger if anyone remembers those. Worked just fine on our Banks Twin Turbo setup from the 80s.Mallory, Jacob’s or even the factory hei units.
Like I said there is really no advantage to having multiple sparks for most applications. Actually the multi-spark is only operative below 3000 rpm anyway. After that it’s just a regular cdi.
I’ve heard a lot of people say that it makes starting easier and to those people I would say that if you need a multi-spark to start your engine you are masking a poorly tuned engine.
Your’s is likely an older US built unit. The newer units that are built overseas are much more problematic. Also yours is a marine unit (blue) They are fully potted.When hooked up correctly and mounted correctly, they work fine. Mines been working in my boat for 13 years. At least that’s my theory.
Hopefully I didn’t just jinx myself
I mounted mine on rubber dampers on the mount for the electrical connector. Not directly to the block or any other mounts.
I also wired the power directly to the battery, ground and power. Connections are all soldered and shrink wrapped.
View attachment 1249172
Keep one mounted below the main one ready to go. cant trust em.This, everyone I know that’s running an MSD box carries a spare. They are that dependable.
Why would anyone use the automotive red ones over the marine blue ones? I’ve only ever seen the blue ones get used on our engines, but even then we’ve had those go bad too.Your’s is likely an older US built unit. The newer units that are built overseas are much more problematic. Also yours is a marine unit (blue) They are fully potted.
I don't really work on boats, but might take a quick look if it's early enough in the morning before the heat.Thanks. We don't go out on the holidays but we are headed to Parker Wednesday. Hopefully I can get someone to see it by then but everyone is closed today.
A few years back there were a number of the blue ones going bad. I think the newer "digital" boxes are more forgiving and will work with lower voltage than the older boxes. I changed one out for a friend who has a blown engine I built for him, the wiring is slightly different from the blue marine box, and the separate rev limiter was removed since the new box had it built in.Why would anyone use the automotive red ones over the marine blue ones? I’ve only ever seen the blue ones get used on our engines, but even then we’ve had those go bad too.
So your talking about a Street (red) box? I see you edited your post….Your’s is likely an older US built unit. The newer units that are built overseas are much more problematic. Also yours is a marine unit (blue) They are fully potted.
Red or blue boxes?Ive lost a handful of them over the years.
BlueRed or blue boxes?
Mallory, Jacob’s or even the factory hei units.
Like I said there is really no advantage to having multiple sparks for most applications. Actually the multi-spark is only operative below 3000 rpm anyway. After that it’s just a regular cdi.
I’ve heard a lot of people say that it makes starting easier and to those people I would say that if you need a multi-spark to start your engine you are masking a poorly tuned engine.
Wow, mounted correctly and no issues. I ran my 6al for 20 years in my race car with zero issues, I bought a 91 mustang that had ignition issues that turned out to be the MSD that had the 6al box mounted without the rubber insulators.When hooked up correctly and mounted correctly, they work fine. Mines been working in my boat for 13 years. At least that’s my theory.
Hopefully I didn’t just jinx myself
I mounted mine on rubber dampers on the mount for the electrical connector. Not directly to the block or any other mounts.
I also wired the power directly to the battery, ground and power. Connections are all soldered and shrink wrapped.
View attachment 1249172
I think huff is when the air goes out and puff when it goes in...maybe some pot heads will chime in....What does “huff “ mean ?