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Anyone know anything about underground gas lines?

stillhustlin

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We have a family property that is mixed use consisting of a house and nursery with green houses. A 1-1/2” underground galvanized gas line runs about 300’ from the house to the green houses and is currently leaking and appears to be untraceable. Due to this and my concern of potential of future leaks even with the current leak being found I’m assuming abandoning this would be the best way to proceed. We got a bid to replace this and it seems high at $30k. I’m thinking we could replace it with 1-1/2” polyethylene line which is relatively cheap per lf. We have a few crossing that may be a little tricky but otherwise it seems like it should be straightforward and a mini ex or trencher could knock most of the digging out. Additionally does anyone have anybody they might recommend that could do something like this in SoCal/Oxnard area? Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

monkeyswrench

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Don't know about official, or legal even, but a guy out here traced his leak. He shut the feed side, and pressurized the other side with shop air. He knew the path of the line, and walked it. A few steps, the ear to a fiberglass rod, few more steps and repeat. In his case, it was from the roof loader's semi, tweaked a joint.

My friend that does water lines says that under driveways and traffic areas are his biggest issues.
 

hallett21

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30K for 300ft is $ 100.00 per foot
lol clearly I’m ready for the weekend.

$100 a ft does not sound outrageous when you want someone to take on the liability etc.

Not to mention you’ll lose a day or 2 just waiting on the inspector.

At the end of the day it’s just some pipe and a trench.
 

rivermobster

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We have a family property that is mixed use consisting of a house and nursery with green houses. A 1-1/2” underground galvanized gas line runs about 300’ from the house to the green houses and is currently leaking and appears to be untraceable. Due to this and my concern of potential of future leaks even with the current leak being found I’m assuming abandoning this would be the best way to proceed. We got a bid to replace this and it seems high at $30k. I’m thinking we could replace it with 1-1/2” polyethylene line which is relatively cheap per lf. We have a few crossing that may be a little tricky but otherwise it seems like it should be straightforward and a mini ex or trencher could knock most of the digging out. Additionally does anyone have anybody they might recommend that could do something like this in SoCal/Oxnard area? Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I ran some gas line for my pool heater.

It HAD to be made from black pipe if I remember correctly.

If I was younger, I'd do it for 20k for you also! 😁
 

AzMandella

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I ran some gas line for my pool heater.

It HAD to be made from black pipe if I remember correctly.

If I was younger, I'd do it for 20k for you also! 😁
I had to replace my gas line some years ago . The pipe has to be black iron but coated with some sort of coating . It is sort of a light blue/green . You also have to use the yellow teflon tape and all joints have to be wrapped with tape sort of like duct tape . I did it myself . Probably cost me $ 500.00 including the rental of a ditch witch for 180ft . No very difficult to do . I had a pipe threader already . Just preasure test it befor burring . Also put sand in the bottom of the trench and then sand on top of the pipe before back filling it . 30K is a joke .
 

lbhsbz

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Find a contractor without a boat to buy gas for this summer....

For that price, I'd buy one of those $8K chinese mini excavators and have a whole bunch of fun digging a trench with it.
 

McKay

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I put in 1.25” poly to my shop through hard clay about 200’ took maybe 6 hours to do with a 3.5ton mini. If it can be in poly through dirt with no landscape/pavement repairs 30k is outrageous. That include a scheduled noon inspection.
 

Melloyellovector

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you should explain more about these “few crossings that may be tricky.”
I’ll do it for 10K, you handle the trench and backfill.
I was just gonna post I’ll do it for 15k, but I suppose I could do it for 10. lol
ill trench w mini ex. “crossings” are the concern to determine why it was bid at 30k
 
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Sportin' Wood

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The end of line sweeps on Polyethylene can be pretty expensive if I recall correctly. It's been almost 20 years since I was a plumbing contractor, but you had to be certified back than to install Polyethylene. The tool was not cheap to make the fusion joints either, even if it was just an iron with some sockets.

All that said, I would use Polyethylene if it is approved. If you want to do it yourself use Fletchercoated pipe, and seal all the joints with 10mil pipe wrap and the glue. I would suggest staying away from straight galvanized.

Make sure they run a tracer wire with the Poly. I would also add in the ribbon about 6 inches about the pipe that warns of a gas line.

Trenching
Material
Expertise
Wait around for inspector to bust balls
Backfill and compaction
Risk
Liability

All adds up.
 

jet496

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Business overhead is just expensive these days so I'm getting back to my old ways of doing it myself when possible. Problem is do you have more time than money or visa versa?
 

Luvnlife

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You handle the digging and backfill and take one of these guys up on their offer. Just have a rental company drop off a mini ex. You either get to learn how to run one or you might have a friend that already knows And will do it for beer. Don’t forget sand bedding, have drop a skid steer on tracks for that. Dont forget to call Dig Alert before you start digging. It’s probably all on private property and they won’t mark anything but the service is free and you cover your ass.👍🏻🍺
 

Sportin' Wood

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What is the pressure for the line?
Should be about half a pound, unless they sent it unregulated. I can't remember if inspection is 15 lbs for 10 minutes, or 10 lbs for 15 minutes. I've Intentionally forgot the UPC.
 

stillhustlin

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Business overhead is just expensive these days so I'm getting back to my old ways of doing it myself when possible. Problem is do you have more time than money or visa versa?
With me being out of state I will likely end up hiring someone. The most I would consider doing would just be trenching but even at that to save a few bucks I would be better off paying somebody to not have the headache.
 

n2otoofast4u

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Yellow poly, a “stab end” pre-manufactured riser on each end, throw a yellow tracer wire in the ditch with it, test, inspect, backfill, done.

Unless your “crossings” are super technical, this is a day job if you can get the inspector to do an afternoon inspection.
 

Deckin Around

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You can hire my 8 year old daughter to run the mini-ex
IMG_8529.jpeg
 
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DirtyWhiteDog

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Metal galvanized pipe they can trace exactly where its at, but I might have misunderstood the OP. Yellow PE pipe and the schedule 80 risers are your best option. You could dig the trench and try to find someone that works for a plumbing or pool contractor that can do the PE plastic welding as a side job. There is also CCST gas line, expensive, but anyone can do it. It would need to be in a sleeve for underground use, PVC.
For testing, metal pipe- 10psi for 10 minutes. Plastic "welded" is 60psi
 

stillhustlin

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Post pics of gas line route, and “ obstacles “
I’m remote but am trying to get a diagram drawn. Ideally it would be going under 3 sections of 3’ pathway and a footing of a green house but worse case would be going under under 1 section of 3’ path and a 12’ driveway which would likely require a direction drill (in my experience it’s like 6-7k minimum to get them out for one crossing) and the green house footing.
 

Luvnlife

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I’m remote but am trying to get a diagram drawn. Ideally it would be going under 3 sections of 3’ pathway and a footing of a green house but worse case would be going under under 1 section of 3’ path and a 12’ driveway which would likely require a direction drill (in my experience it’s like 6-7k minimum to get them out for one crossing) and the green house footing.
The 3’ path is not a problem and neither is the footing. You can use your water hose to get under the 12’ crossing. Jet it then use the mini ex to pound a casing through then shove the gas pipe through.
 

Bobby V

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I’m remote but am trying to get a diagram drawn. Ideally it would be going under 3 sections of 3’ pathway and a footing of a green house but worse case would be going under under 1 section of 3’ path and a 12’ driveway which would likely require a direction drill (in my experience it’s like 6-7k minimum to get them out for one crossing) and the green house footing.
Can you stub up outside the footing and then stub into the green house building. That’s what we used to do if we had a fire main break under the footing.
 

Spudsbud

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Whats your pressure ? 1 pound ? Why do you need such a big pipe, 1-1/2" ?? Unless you're running some larger burner you dont need that kind of volume like for unit heaters or ??
 

Melloyellovector

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I’m remote but am trying to get a diagram drawn. Ideally it would be going under 3 sections of 3’ pathway and a footing of a green house but worse case would be going under under 1 section of 3’ path and a 12’ driveway which would likely require a direction drill (in my experience it’s like 6-7k minimum to get them out for one crossing) and the green house footing.
Go through 3ft pathways easy enough to dig under.
1.5” pipe under a driveway is a challenge 2in even more so. Would likely be easier to saw cut across driveway. Rural area likely = rocky, and water on a hose ain’t gonna work. Boring under is gonna add up quick, and go up if they hit rock. Cheaper to go longer route under pathways only if possible.
Yes absolutely do min 1.5”. If chance all heaters run same time then should actually be 2in poly
IMG_2099.jpeg
 

boatpi

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Black pipe inside of PVC in Nevada here even for outside gas lines
 

rrrr

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Around here service pressure at the meter is 5 PSI and inspected test pressure is 7.5 PSI. I still have a couple of calibrated and tested 10 PSI test gauges with an indicator arrow. The divisions are 1/4 PSI.

Testing at that pressure will reveal the smallest of leaks.
 
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