I don’t have a good detailer that I trust in the area, so I am looking for a one company line of products to simply do it myself. I found the 3m system. Take a look at this video...starting with 800 grit sandpaper seems a little scary...lol. Standard buffer? Or DA random orbit?
3m gelcoat polish system
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renodaytona
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The guy I use in my area only uses the 3M stuff. I'm not sure but I think he uses a DA, he wet sanded, polished and waxed my whole boat. It looked better than the day I bought it almost 12 years ago. I purchased the 3M wax he used on my boat, will be doing a wax job this week.
NicPaus
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Try it with just the compound at first. You might not need sandpaper. I bought the Dewalt multi speed buffer.
CLdrinker
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800 seems course. I would think 1000 or 1200 to start. But I haven’t color sanded for probably 25yrs lol.
I will never forget it though! 38’ Donzi by hand.
I will never forget it though! 38’ Donzi by hand.
King295
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This ^^^^ I used the 3M system on an old 70's jet boat and it came out bitchin. Here is the polisher I used: https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46
old rigger
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This is the 3M compound I was taught to use decades ago and I still use it. It's self degrading so you don't have to use multiple compounds. I don't use it on paint though, only gel.
I know I'm old school but I never use any sandpaper finer than 600 grit wet/dry paper. I haven't tried the foam pads either, still using my wool pads.
To finish off I/we use to take bars of jewelers Rouge, shave it into a powder then mix into a paste with a little water. The finish is outstanding...although there's probably something on the market that works just as well for that final step.
Actually, before I think it was 1984ish when they had to change the mixture of gelcoat, we didn't have to block and sand every part that came out of a mold. Just kiss it off with some compound and it was done. Ahhhh, the good ol days.
Good Luck.
I know I'm old school but I never use any sandpaper finer than 600 grit wet/dry paper. I haven't tried the foam pads either, still using my wool pads.
To finish off I/we use to take bars of jewelers Rouge, shave it into a powder then mix into a paste with a little water. The finish is outstanding...although there's probably something on the market that works just as well for that final step.
Actually, before I think it was 1984ish when they had to change the mixture of gelcoat, we didn't have to block and sand every part that came out of a mold. Just kiss it off with some compound and it was done. Ahhhh, the good ol days.
Good Luck.
Havoc Powesports
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I use 3m perfect it heavy compound followed up by perfect it medium compound, and a wax coat. my boat is gray. I use this Northern tools variable speed
old rigger
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I’ve had this buffer since the mid 80s, it’s heavy compared to the nicer new variable speed ones. I like it though as I was taught to let the buffer do the work and not to apply any pressure to the gel.
My first buffer was a hand me down, damn can’t even remember who gave it to me...maybe Schuster, but it was even heavier than this one.
I too use that model porter cable r.o. polisher. It's a nice tool, works well, not too heavy yet has good power and speed selection with variable speed dial. It's also nice that the orbital head action helps to prevent from burning paint or gel coat.
you only need to use enough abrasive to just remove the dirt/oxidation etc. Going too heavy of grit (sand paper or compunds) will unnecessarily remove the very limited amount of gel coat there is and you have no idea how thick it actually is. It's always well advised to start with the lightest or least aggressive material/process and work a small area until you figure out what's required to achieve the objective.
I like the Meguiars line of products. Their 105/205 system works very well on medium to light oxidization. The 105 will remove 1200 grit sanding marks when used correctly but it's work, 1500 cleans up more easily . Their both diminishing abrasive compounds and create a very deep shine when applied correctly. Also works very well with wool, micro fiber and foam pads. The micro fibers bring up a deeper gloss in my experience. Use compressed air to clean your pads after about every 2-3 sections, especially with the compounds. Rupes pads are very nice quality, but their a little spendy.
the horrible freight R.O. polisher is a decent tool but the one I tried was loud and vibrated too much for my liking so I just returned it and repaired my P.C. V.S. speed dial. I'm looking to upgrade my polisher here soon so I have another option and better pad action.
HOOTER SLED-
Supercharged MOTORBOAT!!!
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If youre a rookie....don't use a circular buffer. A DA buffer will be way more forgiving. Circular buffers are pretty effective, but I think you should have some experience with them first. I like the 3M stuff personally. You don't need this big ass crazy kit stuff. It will vary based on the condition of your gel coat. Don't wetsand if you don't have to. You can start with that 3M compound pictured above. Follow up with a polish(which will bring the high shine). Finish with two coats of carnauba wax. You could always do two passes with the compound if you miss some spots with oxidation. Use these things with various pads. Harbor Freight actually has decent ones....and they will be labeled specifically for compound, polish, wax.
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Supercharged MOTORBOAT!!!
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When using compound and polish on your foam pads or whatever....start with maybe 6 or so dots around the pad. Don't go crazy with it or apply it to the surface. A lil goes along way. Swirl it around on the surface first and then pop the throttle once or twice to minimize the fling of shit everywhere..lol. One IMPORTANT tip I recommend is, after you work the product in, have a spray bottle of water handy....mist the area and rework with the buffer. Not only will this help you spread it better, you will keep the surface cool and it will help make your product go further. Buff till you get the light haze...let dry, then wipe off...repeat if necessary.
TX Foilhead
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Standard buffer, I’ve done my boat from 600 all the way through 3 rounds of 3M Perfect-it with the 3M pads. It’s a long process so definitely figure out where you need to start. You can use an orbital sander for the wet sanding, the paper has no holes so the water from a spray bottle won’t get in it and cause electrical issues., make sure the connection to the extension cord is off the ground and plug it in to a GFCI outlet. Don’t use your favorite sander because it will be hammered when you’re done. If you want some further punishment and think the sander is scetchy then hand sand it and change directions with each grit. 1st one is up and down, next one is front to back. That makes it real easy to see what you’ve missed. Once you get to the compounding part, like old rigger says, each one breaks down into something finer as you use it. Because the Perfect-it is made for cars which have really thin paint compared to gel coat you can’t really screw it up with the big polisher just keep it moving until the polish disapears. I believe the final bottle is the equivalent of 3000 grit sandpaper and is the one that really make things shine so don;t quit after the second one when you think it looks really good.
To keep the boat looking like that I just need regular wax, and if I think its looking dull I touch it up with the polisher and the black perfect-it, cleaner wax will dull it.
The best part about going through the process is that I have the tools now and I’m not afraid to use them on any of the cars, and I didn’t have to learn from mistakes I made trying to detail them.
I've enjoyed my variable speed Milwaukee. Not as heavy as the older all metal tools from yesteryear, but it has the speeds and reliability. Used to start with 1000, then 1500 then 2000 grit. After that I would use Rolite metal polish for the first cut. It took out all the sanding marks consistently. Then I moved on to a 3M compound then finished up with the 3M "Finesse It." After that, several coats of Maguire's wax and a quick wipe down with the Maguire's detail spray. Had it down to a science! 
Very rarely would I use anything more aggressive than 1000. Didn't want to run the risk of burning through the clear.
Very rarely would I use anything more aggressive than 1000. Didn't want to run the risk of burning through the clear.
Mike K
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IMHO ... no one should learn how to use a one-direction rotary polisher/buffer on their own stuff ... even guys who use this tool daily for years don’t get it right most of the time ... very difficult to master and so easy to mess gelcoat/paint up. The alternative is the “DA” or dual action ... it’s just like using your hand but very fast ... so its real hard to mess things up ... there are tons of new products available for a DIYer for a DA that will give you beautiful results. Please keep away from a rotary buffer.
