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Thanks for the pic man :) Now I see that the shorter rudder stuffing box I found in the box of stuff was the original. It was worn too bad to use, so I used the other one I had, which is taller and explains why the pulleys don't quite line up with the quadrant (it's a little too high) the cables...

I was wondering about that - the rudder was one out of another parts boat I had. I can machine the key way a little further down and then tuck it up; you recommend having it almost touching the bottom of the rudder stuffing box? And the prop was off another boat - suggestions for something better?

Lol; thanks man - def was happy to see her back where she belongs....

The last thing for me to get together was the rudder setup - it's a mix of parts; the top bushing plate was worn out, so I built the flat bar and used a bearing for the top. The bearing has a lock on it to locate the rudder vertically, then I added a safety collar & built a sleeve to take up the...

Thanks man; Trying to get it back to looking the way it should. Transom to front engine plate is 35" - judging from the marks on the driveshaft slip splines, that's pretty close to where it was originally. I will take you up on the call offer once I see how it works; I'm sure I'll have...

Thanks man - I've had to get used to the steering wheel in the Mustang not having any effect under certain conditions, lol. Looking forward to seeing what this thing can do.

I'm not sure what you mean by coin tap. I've done some glass/wood repair in other boats and would def not claim to be an expert. I'm used to using a light soft faced hammer to tap hull, stringers etc. and listen for a hollow sound instead of a solid thud - that the same idea? If so; I've done...

Thanks man - over next winter I'd like to tear everything out and polish/re-anodize to make her look fresh again. So what you're saying is with everything static, plates level. Pushing on the left (down) pedal should keep the nose down under accel, then transitioning to no pedal (on the...

The engine oil cooler - I've seen a lot of pics of boats with a water to oil cooler, but this thing was a basket case with nothing. Not sure if it's needed, but I build custom cars/trucks and I use these all the time. Fan's on a temp switch for 180 - have to see if it ever runs. I'm still...

Closer to getting wet, lol. Got the engine on the new plates so the driveshaft angle is in check, alternator setup figured and D21 bits installed - my freight forwarder lost one of my sketchy paddles (lol love the name), but hopefully it shows up sometime. Found out the original fuel tanks were...

So my centre plate was rigid, but I'm setting it up to run off the control rod with the others. The engine is on the wrong mounts and is slightly too far forward (drive shaft slip yoke is bottomed out) - I'm working on putting the proper motor plates back in, but as it sits, inside of transom to...

Thanks for that info - mine are backwards to your setup; so when I have the rod off to machine for the 3 centre levers, I'll reassemble it with the longest on passenger to shortest on driver. Nothing on this thing is right/easy. My buddy who was repairing the fuel tanks just found out they're...

Found out I was short shipped one engine mount foot, so decided to get a look at the rudder situation.... I have parts from this and another boat and am going thru them to find the best to use. First off; how much free play is too much between the brass stuffing box and rudder? With the best...

I got the steering shaft/wheel all back together properly and installed the gauges and switches; polished and reinstalled the throttle pedal with a new cable & proper bolts - I've come to realize whoever worked on this thing before me literally threw it back together; missing or incorrect parts...

Yup; that's the same idea I use to set up drive lines in the vehicles I've put together. If I'm going to mess with it; might as well do it right. Looking for a marine timing cover and bell housing, so I can build new front and rear engine plates to get the engine at the correct height while...

So now that I'm looking at making a better set of engine mount angle brackets, what warp said about the driveshaft angle being wrong (and I know that it is), is rattling around the back of my mind. I found a few pics of boats with the same old school Edelbrock plates as I have, & I realized they...

I'm not one for arguing about anything, so don't blame ya; wasn't my intention; was just saying what I found :) Whatever the old turd is I'm keen to get it back up and running and see what it'll do.

A late response; but I finally went thru the last basket this thing came in and found three turnbuckles attached anchor plates (?) that were cut to fit under the cav rod plate and bolt thru those three holes in the transom. Got a friend who's going to machine the control rod to mount them to it...

Thanks for the advice - I don't want to have to reseal all those holes again; would rather do it right the first time :) As this is my first experience with a vintage/cool/flatty etc. it originally kinda blew my mind that there was no bilge in this thing - all those bolts go directly to the wet...

I've set up more than a few drive lines in road/off road vehicles and I get the equal angle requirement; Yup; those needles will def be moving around in it's current setup, lol. In one of my original posts I mentioned that the engine didn't come out of this boat originally and the mounts were a...